Instructables

Step 2: Parts and tools

You need PARTS.

Go to your local hardware store and buy parts (some parts will not be available at your local hardware store and must be special ordered). If you have a local Surplus Electronics Recycling store near you (Weirdstuff, Electronics Goldmine), go there and rummage around at the old electronics. Gather anything that looks "cool", geeky, futuristic, funky, hi-tech, or would seem useful later on.

Go to The Custom Saber Shop to buy specialty parts:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/

OR Ultrasabers
http://www.ultrasabers.com/

Also go to
http://www.onlinemetals.com/
http://tapplastics.com/
http://www.mcmaster.com/

If the parts do not make sense now, don't worry, I will explain each section of the lightsaber in detail in the steps to follow.

The Blade:
1 x 30-36 inch long Polycarbonate (pc) tube, thick wall 1 inch outside diameter (OD). Wall thickness should be 1/8 inch. This is the blade.
1 x end cap for the pc tube (blade tip)
1 x blade film ("corbin" film is great)
1 x reflective material with a diameter smaller than the inner diameter of the PC tube.

The Hilt:
1 x blade/LED holder (aka the emitter)
1 x 1.5 inch chrome sink tube. 12 inch long
1 or 2 x sink tube adapter. 1 to attach the blade holder to sink tube and 2 if you have opted for a machined pommel.
1 x switch or button
1 x pomel or end cap

What ever else parts you want to attach to the hilt body - grooved section, plates, gold trim, jewels, tapered section, leather. BE IMAGINATIVE. MAKE IT DISTINCTIVELY YOUR OWN.

The Electronic Guts:
1 x High power LED (luxeon III, K2, V, Rebel; seoul P4, or any LED with a lumen output above 60). Decide if you want to buy an LED emitting a certain color or a white LED and use color filters. The lightsaber I built for this instructable in theory should be pumping out over 300 lumen... In theory. You will see later how I accomplished this.

1 x compatible optical lense to focus the LED to 10 degrees or less.

1 x method to control the current going into the LED - for the example a BuckPuck was used. A Resistor can be used but that method is less efficient.

Sound: Optional, but without it you just have a stick that lights up. At the very least consider pulling the board out of a Hasbro toy.


Batteries, battery holder, speakers, sound board, lots of screws, vibration motor, crystal chamber, and wires.

Tools.
Solder iron 45 watt or higher and some good quality solder.
Hack saw
Rotary tool (Dremel) with sanding drum, cut-off wheels, grinding and shaping tools.
Drill and drill bits
Jeweler's files
a screw tap set
screw drivers
allen wrenches
hammer
Glue for metal or epoxy
Elmers glue
Graph paper
Pencil
Sharpie
Sand paper, course and fine assortment
 
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could you guide me through the el wire lightsaber as i only have 50$ and can pull it off if i use el wire
darthdredge5 years ago
How much does all of this cost?
It can range from 75 to 200 dollars depending if you have accessories on. It can also depend on the quality and where you buy it. For example, Lowe's sell the sink tube for 10 dollars and the Home Depot sells the tube for 7 dollars.
It took three years for someone to reply to my comment...
easily the funniest comment on instructables... :)
sup3rj3d!2 years ago
Did you use a 350 mA BuckPuck, i found a 350 mA, 500, and a 700 mA and what store did you buy them too?
MrTinkerer (author)  sup3rj3d!2 years ago
i used 700 mA. The way i have it wired up and the voltage I am supplying, each LEd is getting around 620-650 mA. It all depends on what your LED needs. If your LED works best at 350 mA, buy that buck puck, if it can tolerate 700 mA, buy that. Please read your LED whitepaper for mA requirements.
memoriable3 years ago
Ultrasabers Has A Whole Section Dedicated To Getting You The Parts You Need For Building Your Custom Lightsabers. Visit It Here.

    -Custom Lightsabers
Other than a buckpuck, what can u advice me to buy on a cheaper scale, and if you did buy it cheap where did you go if it's online?
MrTinkerer (author)  StArwArsN3rd3 years ago
If you do not want to use a buckpuck, you can use the correct resistor control current and voltage to your LED. Resistors from radioshack is 3 bucks? If you want to go EVEN cheaper, figure out the voltage requirement of the LED and build a battery pack at or below that voltage. Example, if your LED requires 3.2 volts, two Alkaline AA batteries would deliver 3.0 volts, there you go.
Thank you but i think the 3 dollar resistor at Radioshack shall work, I'm cheap, just not that cheap.
MrTinkerer (author)  StArwArsN3rd3 years ago
It is also a matter of efficiency. 3 volt battery pack powering a 3.2 volt led means all the voltage goes into powering the led. But 4.5 (3xAA) volts going into a resistor to drop voltage to 3.2 v for the led means the voltage difference is converted into heat in the resistor. The bigger the voltage difference, the more heat generated.
what lens did you use for the tri-star?
MrTinkerer (author)  mikethemaster1233 years ago
10 degree with an extra large opening at the bottom. Not sure where it came from. I got it as a kit with the star.
lord vader4 years ago
dont worrry anymore i found me a lightsaber to buy it is darth vaders exact replica for R1 951.00
depotdevoid4 years ago
Hi, great instructable!  I've got a couple of questions about sourcing the parts though. 

I am a total cheapskate but was planning on making a couple of blades--finding the polycarbonate tubing from mcmaster or grainger was easy, but what is an alternate source to TCSS for the tip and the film?  I'm having trouble finding those, do you have any ideas?

Thanks for your help, and again, great instructable!
MrTinkerer (author)  depotdevoid4 years ago

Tap Platics has the domes made out of acrylic.  Works great.

Thanks, I've poked around on their site just now and come up with this:

Acrylic Cabochons

They look right, but the page specifies that, "The bottom of the 1/2 cabochons are not flat."  Is that alright, or is there a different product I'm missing?

Also, did you have an alternate source for the light diffusing film, or is TCSS the only option?

Thanks again!
MrTinkerer (author)  depotdevoid4 years ago

If the bottom is rounded, just sand it flat. if the domes have a lip at the bottom, then just let it be and glue it on.

Okay, I'll give it a shot, thanks for your help!
nivekcizia4 years ago
 aww sketchup. that's cute
Darth-Vader5 years ago
that is cool
Ortzinator5 years ago
Some of these parts, like the PC tube would be cheaper from somewhere like McMaster-Carr <a href="http://www.mcmaster.com">www.mcmaster.com</a><br />