Step 4The Blade
the polycarbonate(pc) tube
an end cap (blade tip)
a small reflective disk
a light diffusion film.
You can build the blade yourself
Or you can order the blade pre-made from TCSS:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/LED-Corbin-style-Battle-blade-1-OD--P198.aspx
Or you can order a premade blade from Ultrasabers:
http://www.ultrasabers.com/UHB_Blade_p/blades-hvy.htm
Details on each part:
The PC tube should be 1" OD with a wall thickness of 1/8" and CLEAR. It should be 30-36 inches long. Longer than that and the blade is harder to use and does not light up evenly.
The end cap and the reflective disk go on the end of the PC tube. I use an adhesive backed foil for the reflective disk with a small hole cut out the center. I then stick that to the bottom of the end cap and glue the end cap to the PC tube. You can also buy a small bag of assorted round mirrors at your local hobby shop. The only issue with using a glass mirror is that you are using a GLASS mirror inside your dueling blade. The end cap with reflective material does two things; give you a rounded end for your blade and reflect some of the light back down the blade to make it brighter.
The diffusing film I use is "Corbin" film. This is named after Corbin Das, the username of the person who perfected the use of diffusion film. Without this film the clear pc tube will just let the light inside pass through and will not look bright. The film reflects and spreads the light for a bright even blade. Role the film into a tube that is the same length as the PC tube and slide the film inside the PC tube. The film will then unfurl a little and press against the inside wall of the PC tube. Static cling will hold the film in place inside the PC tube.
Corbin Film is purchased from TCSS. Item description:
"The special refractive qualities of this blade film are such that they produce the optical illusion of a central beam of light within the blade when illuminated. This "core" is surrounded by a more colorful "aura" that appears to taper towards the tip." -TCSS
On purchasing corbin film, you specify your blade diameter and wall thinkness. Then you specify if you want one layer, two layers, or four layers of Corbin film. I used 2 layers on the green lightsaber in the video. TCSS sent me enough film to cover a blade 40 inches long. I trimmed the length to fit my 34" blade.
NOTE: when rolling the film, make the area as lint and dust FREE as possible.
Ultrasaber also sells a white polycarbonate blade. No blade film needed!
http://www.ultrasabers.com/MG_Blade_p/blades-edge-fx.htm
| « Previous Step | Download PDFView All Steps | Next Step » |


























































Hope I've Been Some Help,
-Custom Lightsabers
There is a saying - "There aint no such thing as a free lunch."
You want bright = the blade will NOT retract/fold/collapse/stow into the hilt.
You want folding/retracting/etc = it will NOT be bright and will look like a toy.
You want lights that scroll up and down = you can NOT duel with it.
You want it to cut through anything = you have to move to a galaxy far, far away.
You can't have it all. You just have to pick what you want and know you WILL be sacrificing something else.
Heavy duty dueling??? Check out dueling vids by Greytale Novastar in youtube. http://www.youtube.com/user/greytale
Polycarbonate tends to bend to extremes before shattering. Safety glasses are made of polycarbonate, as is bullet proof glass. Safety glasses tend to be 1/16th of an inch thick or less. The blade wall thickness is 1/8th of an inch. The small diameter curve also adds strength.
The blades are practically indestructable.
I had wondered much about the strength... even pondered putting two of different diameters inside each-other, with the light diffusion film in between... but I guess it wouldn't be necessary - thanx again! ^_^
Answer: Corbin film is pre-cut when purchased from TCSS. You simply specify blade diameter and wall thickness. Then you select Single wrap(1 layer), Double wrap (2 layers), or Quad wrap (4 layers).
I find double wrap to be just fine.
Thanks for asking, this will help me improve the instructable.