Print PDF
Favorite
Email
Step 9The Electronic Guts
How bright do you want it? Do you want sound? How about some extra stuff like fake electronics, a crystal, feedback motor, or accent LEDs? This is when it could get expensive.
Lets break it down in the next few steps:
* Basic with NO sound
* Basic with advanced LED control
* Basic with Sound
* Mid Level (with sound)
* High Level (with sound)
* Premium (with customizable sound and MP3 Player!)
For my example I went with THREE (3!!!!) Rebels mounted on one Star as close as possible. All are green. This was purchased from Xwingband who has made an investment to be able to produce these custom mounted Rebel LEDs. Powered by one buck puck and three Li-Ion batteries. Each Rebel I think puts out 130 lumen at 700 mAmp. I have three so i think I am over 300 Lumen. More lumen equals brighter blade. i have been told my blade hurts the eyes when you look at it too long.
A fourth Li-Ion battery is used to power the sound board and accent lights. The sound is from a 616 board. There is a crystal chamber, and a feedback motor.
Here is what the functioning electronics look like outside the hilt:
Try to get as much technical specs on the LED you want to use. A good example to start is here: http://www.philipslumileds.com/products/luxeonk2
Read the Datasheet. Important things to know about the LEDS are:
1. Minimum, normal, maximum Forward voltage.
2. Minimum, normal, and max Amperage
3. Light output in lumens at min, normal and max amperage
4. thermal management requirements
5. Size and mounting methods.
Note that white, blue, and green take a higher forward voltage than red, yellow and amber.
Also note that LEDs respond more to current than to voltage. Feeding your LED with current (milliamps) as close to what the datasheet states will provide the most optimal performance.
Picture 1 shows my 3 REBELS mounted on one STAR. Besides the challenge of how to power these beast up was having a solution for the optics. Xwingband provided the solution by mounting the LED emitters as close as possible to each other and providing a collimator with a large enough opening underneath to ALMOST encompass all 3 Rebels.
Picture 2 and 3 shows how the lense (collimator) would normally fit on top of a star with 1 LED emitter. Not shown is the Optics Holder which keeps the lense centered.
Lets break it down in the next few steps:
* Basic with NO sound
* Basic with advanced LED control
* Basic with Sound
* Mid Level (with sound)
* High Level (with sound)
* Premium (with customizable sound and MP3 Player!)
For my example I went with THREE (3!!!!) Rebels mounted on one Star as close as possible. All are green. This was purchased from Xwingband who has made an investment to be able to produce these custom mounted Rebel LEDs. Powered by one buck puck and three Li-Ion batteries. Each Rebel I think puts out 130 lumen at 700 mAmp. I have three so i think I am over 300 Lumen. More lumen equals brighter blade. i have been told my blade hurts the eyes when you look at it too long.
A fourth Li-Ion battery is used to power the sound board and accent lights. The sound is from a 616 board. There is a crystal chamber, and a feedback motor.
Here is what the functioning electronics look like outside the hilt:
Try to get as much technical specs on the LED you want to use. A good example to start is here: http://www.philipslumileds.com/products/luxeonk2
Read the Datasheet. Important things to know about the LEDS are:
1. Minimum, normal, maximum Forward voltage.
2. Minimum, normal, and max Amperage
3. Light output in lumens at min, normal and max amperage
4. thermal management requirements
5. Size and mounting methods.
Note that white, blue, and green take a higher forward voltage than red, yellow and amber.
Also note that LEDs respond more to current than to voltage. Feeding your LED with current (milliamps) as close to what the datasheet states will provide the most optimal performance.
Picture 1 shows my 3 REBELS mounted on one STAR. Besides the challenge of how to power these beast up was having a solution for the optics. Xwingband provided the solution by mounting the LED emitters as close as possible to each other and providing a collimator with a large enough opening underneath to ALMOST encompass all 3 Rebels.
Picture 2 and 3 shows how the lense (collimator) would normally fit on top of a star with 1 LED emitter. Not shown is the Optics Holder which keeps the lense centered.
| « Previous Step | Download PDFView All Steps | Next Step » |
2
comments
|
Add Comment
|
Jan 16, 2011. 11:06 AMdcatalystmx
says:
I have been looking into building my own lightsaber for some time now, and so far this looks very helpful, I have one question though, where did you purchase the LEDs? I can't seem to find them except in bulk from future lighting solutions.
Reply
13
Jan 17, 2011. 10:57 AM
MrTinkerer (author)
says:
MrTinkerer (author)
says:
small quatity orders are possible from MANY internet sources. thecustomsabershop.com, DealExtreme.com, luxeonstar.com, ledsupply.com. Google is your friend.
Reply
 |
Add Comment
|
