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Step 5Riveting the plates on
Before doing this, you may want to read up on how rivets work. They're really simple to use, but you have to be fairly precise when using them, because there's no undoing rivets. Once it's in, it's in. It's possible to remove rivets by drilling them out. Just use the same size drill bit as the hole and just drill through the center of the rivet, it should come out.
Basically, you put a hole the size of the rivet into the sheet metal, and into the glove where you want to attach the piece of metal, then you load the rivet into the riveter, stick the tip of the rivet through both holes, and then crank the riveter. It pulls a ball through a pipe which causes the pipe to expand. The expanding motion prevents the rivet from passing back through the hole.
Try riveting two pieces of sheet metal together before trying it out on your glove.
When ready to actually rivet the plate onto the glove there are 3 mini steps.
1. Place the plate, and punch/drill the holes in the glove
2. Place a washer inside the glove, take the rivet and skewer the plate then glove, then a washer on the inside of the glove. This is the most awkward step, depending on how good you are at maneuvering a washer into a finger hole without being able to see and horse shoeing it onto a rivet tip.
3. Crank that rivet until it snaps.
1) Placing the plate is a total preference thing, depending on the plates you've made, and how you want them to feel. I placed the glove onto a block of wood, then placed the plate on top, marked the spots on the glove with a nail/marker, then punch out the hole in the glove. If you're lazy, you can drill through the plates right into the glove, but I don't recommend it. Using a punch creates a cleaner hole, creates less mess, and doesn't require any electricity (Perfect for fabricating on the bus!). For the look that I wanted (cascading scales), I started first with the nail, and then worked my way back to the knuckle overlapping the pieces as I went.
2) I first stuffed both rivets through the plate, they fit tight enough not to fall out in my case. Then placed the plate loaded with both rivets over the glove and fed them both through. Then I placed a washer over a rivet, and riveted the washer to the glove and plate, and repeated for the other side.
3) Rivets work by pulling a wedge through a tube, causing the tube to expand, this expansion stops the rivet from passing back through the washer. Basically you keep pulling the wedge into the tube until the shaft connected to the wedge breaks. It guarantees a very tight seal, and it's a fairly reliable connection. If You accidentally apply a rivet to the wrong hole, it's not coming out. You'll find that once you're done riveting you'll have a ton of little aluminum sticks left over, keep these. They're a great source of pure aluminum if you or any of your friends are into smelting aluminum to make stuff. They can also be used as heavy gage needles, or pins. (I'm trying to be green here) I kept mine and I'm going to melt them down, and cast them into a charge of some sort.
Once your plates are riveted on, bend them into the appropriate shape. The tin I used was easily shaped by hand. I was able to just fold the pieces over the finger, and they all kinda worked out. If you attached some plates crooked, you can kind of tug them into the right orientation.
Basically, you put a hole the size of the rivet into the sheet metal, and into the glove where you want to attach the piece of metal, then you load the rivet into the riveter, stick the tip of the rivet through both holes, and then crank the riveter. It pulls a ball through a pipe which causes the pipe to expand. The expanding motion prevents the rivet from passing back through the hole.
Try riveting two pieces of sheet metal together before trying it out on your glove.
When ready to actually rivet the plate onto the glove there are 3 mini steps.
1. Place the plate, and punch/drill the holes in the glove
2. Place a washer inside the glove, take the rivet and skewer the plate then glove, then a washer on the inside of the glove. This is the most awkward step, depending on how good you are at maneuvering a washer into a finger hole without being able to see and horse shoeing it onto a rivet tip.
3. Crank that rivet until it snaps.
1) Placing the plate is a total preference thing, depending on the plates you've made, and how you want them to feel. I placed the glove onto a block of wood, then placed the plate on top, marked the spots on the glove with a nail/marker, then punch out the hole in the glove. If you're lazy, you can drill through the plates right into the glove, but I don't recommend it. Using a punch creates a cleaner hole, creates less mess, and doesn't require any electricity (Perfect for fabricating on the bus!). For the look that I wanted (cascading scales), I started first with the nail, and then worked my way back to the knuckle overlapping the pieces as I went.
2) I first stuffed both rivets through the plate, they fit tight enough not to fall out in my case. Then placed the plate loaded with both rivets over the glove and fed them both through. Then I placed a washer over a rivet, and riveted the washer to the glove and plate, and repeated for the other side.
3) Rivets work by pulling a wedge through a tube, causing the tube to expand, this expansion stops the rivet from passing back through the washer. Basically you keep pulling the wedge into the tube until the shaft connected to the wedge breaks. It guarantees a very tight seal, and it's a fairly reliable connection. If You accidentally apply a rivet to the wrong hole, it's not coming out. You'll find that once you're done riveting you'll have a ton of little aluminum sticks left over, keep these. They're a great source of pure aluminum if you or any of your friends are into smelting aluminum to make stuff. They can also be used as heavy gage needles, or pins. (I'm trying to be green here) I kept mine and I'm going to melt them down, and cast them into a charge of some sort.
Once your plates are riveted on, bend them into the appropriate shape. The tin I used was easily shaped by hand. I was able to just fold the pieces over the finger, and they all kinda worked out. If you attached some plates crooked, you can kind of tug them into the right orientation.
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