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Step 2Build
Once I was happy with the location, I cleared the area of grass and weeds, gave it a good dose of weedkiller so they don't come back and then dug the holes for the corner posts, concreted them in and then cracked on with the studwork and floor supports.
As always you need to be as accurate as you can be, I was planning on using 3mm ply to line the sides, so I spaced the posts out so they were exactly one sheet of plywood apart (which is 8 feet)
I wanted a shed for my garden, I also wanted a hot-tub and/or a ride on lawnmower.
Both of these are big, so I'll be needing a shed with wide doors. I also wanted a square shed, most sheds in the DIY shops are rectangular.
I also wanted a shed with a reasonably high door, so I don't have to duck to get in - a reasonably high door also means a reasonably high ceiling. I wanted a pavillion type roof because they look cool, and because flat roofs are generally boring and are a leak just waiting to happen.
Don't you just hate sheds that wobble or worse move in the wind? Mine doesn't wobble!
It doesn't wobble because the shed has four four inch corner posts that are integral to the shed, but are also sunk 2 feet into the ground at all 4 corners. This makes for a very secure and stable shed.
It is this idea that really sets my shed design apart from other people's.
The first step of building a shed is to choose the location, I used a few lengths of wood to mark it out full size and also to get an idea of level.
Once I had decided where the shed was going I spent a few minutes viewing the location from various parts of the house and garden to make sure I was happy with it.
Once I was happy with the location, I cleared the area of grass and weeds, gave it a good dose of weedkiller so they don't come back and then dug the holes for the corner posts, concreted them in and then cracked on with the studwork and floor supports.
As always you need to be as accurate as you can be, I was planning on using 3mm ply to line the sides, so I spaced the posts out so they were exactly one sheet of plywood apart (which is 8 feet)
You can see that the four inch square fence post is well concreted into the ground, but also well fixed to both the floor and walls, this really does make for a nice strong join - and ultimately a strong shed. As some of this wood will be in contact with the earth, I gave it a good soak in wood preservative to help it last - It's already tanalised, but I reckon a bit more preservative can't hurt!!
The actual floor supports float above the ground slightly, by about 3 inches, I thought this would keep the wood and the floor nice and dry, before covering the floor joists with OSB I will pour in clean gravel to fill the gap between the floor and the ground to add extra strength.
As always you need to be as accurate as you can be, I was planning on using 3mm ply to line the sides, so I spaced the posts out so they were exactly one sheet of plywood apart (which is 8 feet)
I wanted a shed for my garden, I also wanted a hot-tub and/or a ride on lawnmower.
Both of these are big, so I'll be needing a shed with wide doors. I also wanted a square shed, most sheds in the DIY shops are rectangular.
I also wanted a shed with a reasonably high door, so I don't have to duck to get in - a reasonably high door also means a reasonably high ceiling. I wanted a pavillion type roof because they look cool, and because flat roofs are generally boring and are a leak just waiting to happen.
Don't you just hate sheds that wobble or worse move in the wind? Mine doesn't wobble!
It doesn't wobble because the shed has four four inch corner posts that are integral to the shed, but are also sunk 2 feet into the ground at all 4 corners. This makes for a very secure and stable shed.
It is this idea that really sets my shed design apart from other people's.
The first step of building a shed is to choose the location, I used a few lengths of wood to mark it out full size and also to get an idea of level.
Once I had decided where the shed was going I spent a few minutes viewing the location from various parts of the house and garden to make sure I was happy with it.
Once I was happy with the location, I cleared the area of grass and weeds, gave it a good dose of weedkiller so they don't come back and then dug the holes for the corner posts, concreted them in and then cracked on with the studwork and floor supports.
As always you need to be as accurate as you can be, I was planning on using 3mm ply to line the sides, so I spaced the posts out so they were exactly one sheet of plywood apart (which is 8 feet)
You can see that the four inch square fence post is well concreted into the ground, but also well fixed to both the floor and walls, this really does make for a nice strong join - and ultimately a strong shed. As some of this wood will be in contact with the earth, I gave it a good soak in wood preservative to help it last - It's already tanalised, but I reckon a bit more preservative can't hurt!!
The actual floor supports float above the ground slightly, by about 3 inches, I thought this would keep the wood and the floor nice and dry, before covering the floor joists with OSB I will pour in clean gravel to fill the gap between the floor and the ground to add extra strength.
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ps. i don't know builders jargon.
Just a little FYI though, your intro was pasted into the middle of your Build page making it kind of confusing.
Jolly good luck with your shed, let me know how it goes!
Dan