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Building a VU meter for you multimedia PC

Building a VU meter for you multimedia PC
This instructable describes how to mount a VU meter into a case of an old cd-rom drive and then put it into your pc.

On eBay I bought a bunch of VU meters based on VFD displays build in Russia. The displays where rather cheap and looked nice. I thought I'd give it a try.

It seems that the display was used in a cassette deck build by Radiotehnika Model MP7301.
(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWcdvmk4Ifw)

When the vu meters arrived I realized that on all devices there was one transistor missing.
To make them work again you need to "repair" the vu meter ... don't panic you can easily solder a substitute transistor onto the pcb.


 
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Step 1Introduction

Introduction
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  • vu-meter.jpg
  • sony-cd-rom-drive.jpg
  • pir-board.jpg
On the Internet you can find a bunch of DIY vu meters, a few of them based on vfd displays. Vfd displays look cool ... much cooler than led or lcd displays. Some of the displays are NOT vu meters. Some of them are spectrum analyzers, calling them vu meters is wrong. Some of them also do not behave like vu meters. A vu meter does display the audio level of a audio amplifier. But it does not do that in realtime ... there are some time constants build in. You should have a look at this wikipedia article http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VU_meter .

I bought the vu-meters on eBay http://myworld.ebay.de/kalleb/ .
The vu meters are taken out of some russian tape recorder. They are rather old and not all that I bought where working completely. On one of them the counter did not work, but who cares? You don't need the counter. The schematics of this devices that you can find on the internet are wrong. They are simply for another pcb version. I needed to do some research to find out how to use them.

Basically I used the vu-meter, and some components I took from a PIR pcb, also from kalleb, and an old cd-rom drive from sony. The cd-rom drive is only used as a case. All the electronics and the mechanics are not needed here.
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24 comments
Jan 19, 2012. 9:45 AM401104 says:
Hi, I'm trying to get one of these vu-meters to work, but the problem is that only first dot in the upper line lights up and the bottom line is fully lit at all times (with or without signal on audio lines). I've tried adjusting R16 R5 and R6, but that doesn't seem to change anything. Maybe someone had such problem as well and figured a solution?
Dec 21, 2011. 11:23 AMcandelo says:
Great project! take a look my similar project

http://candelectronica.blogspot.com/2011/12/led-vu-meter-en-un-hcs08-freescale.html
Aug 7, 2008. 7:34 PMtranseunte says:
You could use the counter to show track time in M:SS format. :)
Jan 13, 2009. 7:11 AMHycro says:
That is a neat idea to use it as a track time counter, 'cept when you've got a track that goes over 9'59, then it might look strange on the display, or just look like the track started over.
Feb 10, 2009. 5:38 PMMasterChief1517 says:
You could use it to show what track # you're on....
Feb 11, 2009. 6:59 AMHycro says:
That would be a neat one...I've been wondering if there was a way to make your computer's time display on a VFD on the front panel or something...I seen one where the CPU and MoBo temp was displayed on an LCD on the front panel...I was going to modify an old back-lit digital watch to have its light always on, and be powered by my computer using the +5VSB on my power supply, and the light powered when the computer's on...but when the power goes out, I'd have to re-set the watch, and that would be tricky if it was behind my front panel, since it doesn't just pop off, it's held on by 6 screws, and I have to take half the case apart to take off the front panel, along with removing two hard drives.
Feb 11, 2009. 4:19 PMMasterChief1517 says:
Well, if you use a watch, power the back light by the power supply, but use the battery to power the watch itself. It'll last a very long time that way and you'll only have to pull it apart probably every few years. By the time it dies, I'd be willing to bet you've already got a new computer. Probably would be as simple as breaking some traces so the battery won't power the screen.
Feb 13, 2009. 7:40 AMHycro says:
Yea, I was thinking of that, and I'd probably keep using the same box for my computer, just change the motherboard when I need to use a quad core processor, and more than 4 GB of RAM...the board I got now can support an AMD Athlon 64 X2 and up to 4GB of RAM in two DDRII slots, it's good for what I use it for, but I did manage to get a game that requires a dual core processor to run on a single core processor, although I had to sacrifice graphics detail, and to exit the game, I have to select Exit from the menu, and then end the program with task manager, if I didn't select Exit first, I'd end up having to use my "magic red button" (it's actually the reset button, but I coloured it red...) Back to the box...it's pretty universal, 3 3.5" bays, 4 5.25" bays, 2 80mm fan mounting locations, 1 120mm fan, and 1 90mm fan, all case fans. I'll try to find a battery the correct physical size for the watch (I have many the correct voltage, which is 3V, but none the same diameter, all the ones I have are too big, and are back-up batteries for the CMOS memory for motherboards) and get it to work that way.
Oct 24, 2011. 7:12 PMzim_256 says:
This is rather old and maybe the hardware involved in this instructable was already trashed but anyways, you can connect the counter to the HDD led on the computer, make it count the times the LED lights up. Nothing really useful but it's better than having it show all 0's or nothing at all.
Jul 10, 2011. 11:42 AMuhclem says:
How about summing the 5 and 12v (+ & -) supplies to get +/- 17V and just drop that down with a couple of 1A silicon diodes? I know you can combine the -5 and +12 to get +7, which some use to run fans slower.
Mar 10, 2011. 2:24 PMrobot797 says:
i want a display like that
do you sell one?
Jul 28, 2009. 10:39 PMcharlieb000 says:
instead of a DC DC converter, you can use a 555 (for the +15v)... have the 555 on the 12v and the output is to a negative of a capacitor. when the 555 output is off, the capacitor is charged with 5v (through a diode pointing from 5v to the cap's positive) and when the output is ON the negative of the cap is at 12v thus giving 17v on a second diode's output. and i dont think you can get any more efficient. may work also if you switch the voltages, same output. for the -15v, a cap where the positive is switched between +5v and 0v and the negative is on -12 (or switched between +12 and 0 and negative is on -5v) and thus -17v. probably a negative regulator needed or slowing the 555 will surfice. the diodes (and maybe the transistors in the 555 too) have voltage drops too so you may get around -15v and +15v in the end.
Jul 28, 2009. 10:59 PMcharlieb000 says:
the diodes probably need to be high speed....
Jul 28, 2009. 10:46 PMcharlieb000 says:
the speed is not very fast so there is probably a capacitor that is too big somewhere... (to clarify, it mostly stays around the same level, except for drum beats)
Feb 8, 2009. 1:39 PMalex-sharetskiy says:
In soviet Russia, track plays you!
Jan 25, 2008. 1:56 PMPunkguyta says:
Might I suggest using the counter for your temperature of the computer/amplifier? I'm sure that could be done with a small microprocessor and a couple cheapy thermo-sistors.
Jan 18, 2008. 11:38 AMxsmurf says:
Pretty nice instructables :) Why not display BPM with the counter?
Oct 27, 2011. 8:12 AMLinuxH4x0r says:
Nice! I might make one with leds inside my case, so when it goes up the whole computer glows brighter and darker
Jan 17, 2008. 3:11 PMGorillazMiko says:
Dang... this looks insanely awesome, looks like a lot of work too!

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Author:frickelkram
radio amateur since i was 16, education in electronics, built extension-cards for ibm pc, build machines to make concrete, studied communications engineering, had a dot-com company in the late ninetie...
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