Building a drawer slide CNC machine for under $200!

 by CopperDropDesigns
Featured



Drawer Slide CNC Machine for under $200

 

Like many of us interested in this hobby, I wanted my own machine. But I didn’t want to dive into it, spend $2k plus and have a large paperweight out in my shop. The idea was born for a simple, cheap, somewhat accurate CNC machine that I could modify as I gained knowledge (and funds).

The first step in the process was deciding what hardware I was going to use.

I decided on the TB6560-3 axis driver bought off eBay for $22.00/free shipping. I chose this driver because it was very affordable, and that is how I chose most of the components for this project. Next came the 12V 8.5A Switching Power Supply, also bought off eBay for $14.99/free shipping

For stepper motors, I found a lot of 5 on eBay for $10.00/free shipping. They are small, but they actually have plenty of power for this machine (I’m not milling aluminum and the x-y is quite small).

The spindle is probably the most important part of the machine. If you buy something that has too much run out (movement in the shaft/bearings which makes your cutting tools “wobble”) you will have difficulty achieving any sort of accuracy. This is the mistake I made, I chose a Dremel 100. This is a great tool, don’t get me wrong, but it is made with a plastic housing, and it turns at 35,000 RPM so it has quite a bit of run-out.

There are a lot of misc hardware pieces need to build this machine, but most of which can be found at your local Lowes, Home Depot or local hardware store. I will detail a list of materials needed here:

Also, you will need some sort of software(and obviously a computer) to run the machine and to do drawings. I use Mach3(free... http://www.machsupport.com/) for the controlling software, and I do most of my drawing in Turbo Cad for Mac. There are many choices out there, some more expensive than others.


****EDIT**** I forgot to mention what I would do with the laser cutter if I were to win! I would make a lot of crafts and projects to benefit a not for profit I'm involved with. It's a great organization that helps children increase their self esteem and self confidence.

 

(2) 2”x4”x8’

(2) Pairs of heavy duty drawer slides

(1) small linear slide rail (bought off eBay $5.00/free ship) for Z axis

(1) 2’x2’ 1/8” sheet of luan plywood (could also use Plexiglas)

(1) Sheet of Plexiglas or lexan ¼” to 3/8” 10" x 10"

(1) 3/8”x 3/8”x 36" aluminum angle 3

(1) 3/8” x 36"aluminum U channel

(1) ½” x 1/8”x 3’ aluminum flat stock

(1) ¼”-20 x 3’ Threaded rod (lead screw)

(3) ¼”-20 hex standoffs 2” long

(1) ¼” fuel line hose for coupling motor to threaded rod

(1) Tube of super glue

(4) Wood screws for securing drawer slides to frame

(16) Nuts and bolts 10-24 x 5/8”

(12) Nuts and bolts 8-32 x 3/8”

(2) drill bushings (for lead screw support)

 

Wire:

-For stepper motor hook-up determined by stepper motors (how many wires) and how far your drivers are placed.

-Power cable for power supply (used 3 wire cord of old power tool)

-Small length of 12ga wire for driver power (from power supply) + and –



1. Start by building a 2x4 frame, as shown in the Illustrations.

2. Attach the drawer slides to the frame

3. Glue or weld a small piece of sheet metal (with holes), or plastic to the hex standoff for the lead screws and attach to bottom of both X and Y axis

4. Attach the X axis plywood, luan, or plexiglass

5. Attach the next set of drawer slides to the X axis

6. Attach the Y axis plexiglass (10" x 10") to the drawer slides on the X axis

7. Next, attach the small linear slide to the upper Z support

8. Attach a small piece of plexiglas, or any other rigid material for the Z axis, along with another hex standoff mounted to the back for the lead screw.

9. Depending on your spindle motor choice, you will have to figure out how to mount it. I used a 2" plastic pipe holder, found at Lowes in the plumbing section.

10. Also depending on which stepper motors you choose you will have different options on mounting them. I used aluminum angle to mount them.

patsam37 says: May 20, 2013. 7:00 PM
My step motors have 6 wires how did you hook everything up to the tb6560 and power unit. I have been looking online trying to find out an easy way to hook everything up but I could only find the 4 wire hook up.
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to patsam37May 21, 2013. 6:24 AM
Try this link.

http://www.stepperonline.com/tb6560-3-axis-cnc-stepper-motor-driver-board-35a-output-current-p-113.html
Harrison V says: Mar 15, 2013. 1:00 AM
Would you build one for me, if I bought it from you and paid you for labor, parts, shipping, ect.?
Electronics Man says: Feb 2, 2013. 8:17 PM
Great job on this it looks fantastic! What software do you use for designing your parts?
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to krissh0009Jan 6, 2013. 6:44 AM
287 oz-in is wayyy more than what I was using. I doubt they are actually rated that, but it is still a bigger motor than I used and I can cut wood just fine.
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to krissh0009Jan 6, 2013. 6:43 AM
You should be fine with those. Thanks.
ddzahn says: Jan 4, 2013. 12:14 AM
I'm in the process of creating this build. Great Ideas and design! Luckily I saw a potential problem with dust fouling up the bearings so I mounted them upside down thus making the raceway opening face downward. Also, I am using 3 nema 23, 283 oz steppers I found on e-bay for $90.
aimatt says: Dec 4, 2012. 1:00 PM
This is really an outstanding build. Are you sure about the price of steppers though? $10 for 5 is so so so cheap.
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to aimattDec 4, 2012. 6:16 PM
Yeah, I found a great deal. They are they same size as printer stepper motors. I'm sure you could find some non working free ones on Craigslist.
Redsic says: Aug 9, 2012. 7:25 AM
Lovely design..


Good Idea's on Sourcing component's...

You have given me some Invaluable Ideas on cutting down the cost's of the
http://www.instructables.com/id/Simple-CNC-Machine/
I am building with quite afew modification's...

Thanks !

gera229 says: May 24, 2012. 1:43 PM
Do you have any backlash with this?

What did you use for the bushings that hold the screws in place?

I see a plastic part with a cylinder in it, but what is that? You didn't specify it in your BOM.
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to gera229May 24, 2012. 2:44 PM
I used bronze bushings, similar to this: http://www.mcmaster.com/#6338K413, but I bought them at the hardware store.

I don't really have any backlash, yet. I'm sure as the nuts and rods wear, it will get more noticeable.
gera229 in reply to gera229May 24, 2012. 1:44 PM
Also what's the max speed you get with that driver and motors?
steinesc says: May 1, 2012. 6:47 AM
I've been looking around on eBay for the 3-axis controller. Haven't been able to find any as cheap as you have. Any suggestions as to where else to look?? Thanks! Great project!!
mikerosati in reply to steinescMay 4, 2012. 1:16 PM
I wasn't able to find any of the electronics or motors with the same/similar specs, anywhere near the price the author found them for..

I did however find a Chinese supplier on ebay with a warehouse in the US that I got a 4 axis version of the same controller, and 4 motors for about $100. The cheapest I found anywhere was $85 for the 3..
steinesc in reply to mikerosatiMay 20, 2012. 10:41 AM
Thanks for the reply. I have been trying ebay and have been looking around for a few months now. I've been wanting to build something else for a project of mine, and have been pushing that off until I have this built, so I can try to build it with the help of the CNC.

I'll just keep looking around.

Thanks!!
mikerosati says: May 16, 2012. 11:16 AM
How is the Z axis supported when the slide isn't fully extended? If you have a pound or two with the slide, mount, and whatever you may use as the spindle (dremel, trim router, etc..) wouldn't that just put all the weight on the screw and motor, which would pull apart?

Thanks :)
Mike
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to mikerosatiMay 16, 2012. 4:09 PM
The Z axis is supported. It is on a single linear slide, which is quite stout and flexes very little. The is not taking any side to side load.Look at the pictures againd and you will see it. Thanks.
mikerosati in reply to CopperDropDesignsMay 17, 2012. 8:17 AM
Thanks for the reply :)
I wasn't asking about the side to side support though. I was concerned about the vertical - Yes it's on a slide, but what other than the motor and screw is keeping that slide from dropping to full extension? As an example, if I have two pounds of trim router, small mount to connect it to the slide, etc, wouldn't that two pounds be pulling down on the screw, trying to pull it off the motor? Since there is no spring to help alleviate the weight, wouldn't this stress and break the hold made by glue, etc with the coupling hose?
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to mikerosatiMay 18, 2012. 4:21 PM
Ahh, I see what you are saying.

I have not had the tubing "coupler" break loose yet. I guess super glue, and a very tight hose connection is enough for the light weight dremel. I am in the process of rebuilding the machine and upgrading it. Stay tuned! Thanks.
dionicia12 says: Apr 20, 2012. 11:14 AM
I really like this design and I want to try and build one like it but I'm curious as to some of the parts you used.

How long are all the drawer slides that used?
mikerosati in reply to dionicia12May 4, 2012. 1:13 PM
They look very similar, if not identical to the slides I purchased from Lowes.. I got 24" heavy duty (up to 100 pounds) for $18 a pair.

I thought it would be a good idea to get the best slides, and use them through upgrading later.. Only $3-5 difference from the smaller/lighter duty ones..
abetusk says: Feb 25, 2012. 3:36 AM
This project really looks great, thanks for the instructable!

Can you speak a bit about the resolution you're getting out of your CNC? Also, you say that you had touble with your Dremel100, is there are Dremel tool that you would recommend that doesn't have as much play? Can you speak a bit about your source for the U channels, threaded rods and other hardware you used in your build?

Sorry for the deluge of questions, but I'm trying to build my first CNC and I'm still trying to get a feel for what kind of hardware and where to purchase it for a reasonable price.
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to abetuskMar 15, 2012. 10:12 AM
I would probably use any small router(trim) with an aluminum body. It would reduce the amount of run out.
I got almost everything from the local hardware store, which was the point of this whole project. Let us know how your project is coming!
acl9865 says: Mar 14, 2012. 4:51 PM
Can you explain how you attached the output shaft to the threaded rod? If it's just a tight hose it would seem like there would be a lot of potential slip, yet I can't find any metal coupler online that fits a 5 MM output shaft..
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to acl9865Mar 15, 2012. 9:59 AM
I couldn't find a small enough coupler that would work with this design. So I used a 1/4" heavy duty fuel line hose and super glued it. I used the super because as the motors heat up, it transfers the heat to the hose and it loosens up and slips. It has been working great, and if there so happens to be a programming error, the super glued joint is usually the first thing to break, not your machine.
hamettal says: Mar 14, 2012. 7:28 AM
i'm almost done building this project but i still wonder.. where did you use the aluminum U channel? xD i'm sorry i read this instructable over and over again and i can't find it!. i have some issues programing with mach 3 :/ i hope to make it work, so i can show you a video :) regards!
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to hamettalMar 14, 2012. 8:39 AM
I didn't really need it, I just used it for my light bar, so it's not neccesary. Can't wait to see your build. Let me know if there is anything I can help with.
hamettal in reply to CopperDropDesignsMar 14, 2012. 9:27 AM
omg lol true!! i didn't pay atention to the light bar!!! thanks!! let me check cuz i need some help on mach 3. i want to add a Estop button and limit switches but i'm not sure about how to do it
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to hamettalMar 14, 2012. 9:37 AM
The e-stops are something I have planned. With the lightweight materials used, it wouldn't take much to break something with a small programing error. Good idea.
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to CopperDropDesignsMar 14, 2012. 9:44 AM
Also, with the addiction this hobby creates, I have started another biuld. I'm biulding a CNC plasma cutter.....
hamettal in reply to CopperDropDesignsMar 14, 2012. 10:38 AM
AWESOME! new instructable? i'm so grateful because you took your time to make this one. I think your plasma cutter will be amazing!
normand861 says: Mar 5, 2012. 8:20 PM
Hi,Nice project.Can you tell me what is your dip setting for your driver board and put some pictures Please,Thanks
hamettal says: Feb 23, 2012. 2:52 PM
what kind of thing did you use as a base to attach the dremel?
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to hamettalFeb 23, 2012. 3:31 PM
It is actually a pvc pipe clamp found at most hardware stores, cost under $1.00.
username.neo2 says: Jan 13, 2012. 12:07 AM
Hey , i am looking for a cnc driver board , i got this one on ebay http://www.ebay.in/itm/CNC-TB6560-3-Axis-Stepper-Motor-Driver-Controller-Board-/250781815058#shId is it possible to that there are other counterfeit boards like the original, i saw a lot of complaints when i googled for its review. Did you faced any issues when you bought that board? thanks
Electronics Man in reply to username.neo2Jan 18, 2012. 6:45 PM
I would reccomend the HobbyCNC EZ Driver or the HobbyCNC PRO Chopper Driver. I purchased the EZ driver and I am very pleased.

http://www.hobbycnc.com/
billgeo says: Jan 17, 2012. 3:29 PM
I think that the wobble you get on the Z axis has something to do with the use of one linear slide, as well as the ranout of the dremel.

The LED worklight is a nice touch though!

GREAT!
nickoclaire says: Jan 2, 2012. 6:20 AM
The runners are called Accuride and they are the side mounted ones. I work for a shop fitting company and we use these all the time.
kris2lee says: Dec 24, 2011. 3:42 PM
I like to know what are you using for the end of the lead screw (picture 9 and 10).

I understand that the plastic thing is just a piece of scrap plastic probably but what is the metal part?
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to kris2leeDec 26, 2011. 6:23 AM
Yes, the plastic thing is a piece of old cutting board, but you could use any material like wood, acrylic, plastic, etc. And the metal part is actually a drill bushing. They can also be found at any local hardware/woodworking store. I used one of those because they can take the continuous rotation of the lead screw and not wear quickly as that is what they are designed to do.
hamettal says: Dec 16, 2011. 8:22 AM
the wood can stand a 4 lb motor?
pfred2 in reply to hamettalDec 23, 2011. 12:10 AM
My house is made out of wood and so far so good here!
hamettal in reply to pfred2Dec 23, 2011. 7:50 AM
lol true true
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to pfred2Dec 23, 2011. 3:30 AM
Lol, yeah, the wood is plenty strong.
pfred2 in reply to CopperDropDesignsDec 23, 2011. 11:13 AM
We've been trying but wood is a difficult material to beat. Light, cheap, strong, easy to work. It has its downsides used for machine construction though. Rate of expansion varies depending on a number of factors, such as species, humidity levels, grain orientation. Wood can be awfully resonant too, which is nice if you're making a violin or a guitar, not so nice if you're trying to machine materials though. It is hard to beat the damping qualities of cast iron.

Despite its limitations major machines of the First Industrial Revolution were made out of wood. Now here we are in the post industrial age and some folks still build machines out of the stuff. For many of the same reasons too I might add.

We call this progress? Sometimes I wonder ...
bsaunder2002 says: Nov 19, 2011. 1:26 PM
I'm starting the build of this design today.
Can you tell me the dimensions. Though the cad diagrams look nice, the resolution is too poor to read. I need the dimensions for the:
- base outside 2x4's
- base inside 2x4's
- height of the arm
- lenths of the arm

I modified your arm design by not doing the cutouts. The goal is to just have 2x4's cut to length. I'll sandwich the horizontal arm between two verticle 2x4's. I'll add 2x4 blocks in the verticle arms to keep them spaced correctly and give screw points. This combined with some metal angle brackets (home of the pot has tons) should give me the proper strength. I'm also going to skip cutting out the section to mount the arm to the base and go with screws from the inside and angle brackets on the outside.

Thanks for the good photo's. This probably is the simplest CNC build I've seen. I hope the resolution is enough to cut parts for a gantry CNC.
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to bsaunder2002Nov 25, 2011. 9:22 AM
That's awesome! I cant wait to see your variation on my design. Things can always be improved apon! I'm putting together a new video of some items I have machined.
If you click on the picture, it should have a little "i" in the upper left hand corner where you can view the files in a larger, more clear format so you can read all the dimensions. Let me know if you still need them.
Thanks!
hamettal in reply to CopperDropDesignsDec 15, 2011. 9:56 AM
i have the same problem can tou tell me the dimensions?
bsaunder2002 in reply to hamettalDec 15, 2011. 1:20 PM
Following the directions CopperDropDesigns gave, I get these dimensions

Base Inner 2x4's = 16 inches
Base Outer 2x4's = 19 inches
Base cutout = 1/2 inch deep
Base cutout width = 3 inches

One side of verticle arm:
Height = 15 inches
Cutout = 3/4 inches by 3+1/2 inches
(2x4 so width/depth = 3.5x1.5 inches)

Horizontal arm
Length = 10 inches

Status update:
I have 2 steps moving CW and CCW (originally got this going only CW) (clockwise/counterclockwise).
I have the base and arm created
I used home of the pot drawer slides $15 a pair.
I used "" 3/8 screws and those long nuts (forget their name).
I found a clam thing that is basically a C with screw holes at the end of the arms of the C. It's rubber coated and they come in many sizes. I found a size that fits tightly around the long nut above. 2 per nut oriented so the screw's are on opposite sides of the nut, and screwed into the platform that this nut/screw controls are the way I'm going to move the platform. (what horrible writing, if anyone understands that paragraph it'll be amazing".
The same C clamp thingy comes in pure plastic. I'll use one of those at the end of the screw for support. (found one just slightly bigger than the 3/8 screw).

The only steps I have next:
- attach screw to top platform (easy)
- drill out via's through the 2x4's for the other screw (and attach it)
- hook gas lines to screw and stepper motors (my 2 steppers are from printers and already have gears on them...easy to clamp gasline to)
- hook up longer wires to the motors

The I can draw (X/Y) and will have a "working CNC" machine.
(Im using linux/EMC2 and the test tools spin the motors now.)

Next I'll craft a Z mechanism. I bought a medium drawer slide from home of the pot. The drawer slides came in 3 quality levels $15 (ball bearing, nicer, smoother), $5(still bearings but not as nice as first), elcheapo that doesnt have a "enclosed" slide mechanism.

So medium is the $5 one. I picked it because they're all too long for Z, but the $5 looks like a metal bit in my sawzall (or if your crazy, a simple hacksaw) should be able to cut it down to 4-5 inches. That's where I'll start for my Z axis.

My goal is to get it drawing this weekend. I'll post more info when I get there.
Bill
hamettal in reply to bsaunder2002Dec 15, 2011. 2:06 PM
awesome dude! really? this weeknd?? badass!
thanx for giving me your notes :) you rock! so .. me imagino que no hablas ingles, hablas español?
bsaunder2002 in reply to bsaunder2002Nov 19, 2011. 1:28 PM
Also:
What is the cutting size in X,Y, and Z?
Do you have any idea about the resolution achievable?
Do you have any photo's of stuff you've made with it?
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to bsaunder2002Nov 25, 2011. 9:27 AM
I can machine a part about 9" square, and about 6" thick, but it all depends on the tool being used. Not sure about the resolution or accuracy, but I know it's very close to what I draw up. I'll try and get some measurements.
hamettal says: Dec 14, 2011. 12:08 PM
hi!! where can i get the hex standoffs?
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to hamettalDec 14, 2011. 1:54 PM
Most hardware stores carry them in different sizes. They will be by the nuts and bolts/hardware.
hamettal in reply to CopperDropDesignsDec 15, 2011. 8:25 AM
thanks for replying!
i'm so interested in your project, in fact i'm about to build it.. i wonder if you can help me :) so i have some more questions.. just to be sure :)
the Threaded rod is the same for x, y and z axis?
wich material is the threaded rod?
what do you think if i use a Nema 23 steppers motor, should i change the frame?
should i modify the drawer slides?
mach 3 works on windows?
ok, last one
you bought the slide rail for Z axis on ebay but, is from a drawer too?
thanx for reading me, have a nice day :)
*i already downloaded the PDF file but there's some missing pics :(
hcmoped says: Nov 18, 2011. 12:59 AM
Hi I have to ask, what did you use as couplings for the stepper motor?
It looks like a rubber tube of some kind.
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to hcmopedNov 18, 2011. 4:37 AM
Yes, that's all it is! It is 1/4" fuel line tubing, bought at Lowes in the plumbing section. I super glued it to the stepper motor shaft, and the 1/4"-20 lead screw. It is a tight fit and holds without the glue, but when the stepper motor eventually gets warm, it makes the rubber get soft and slip off the motor shaft!
pfred2 in reply to CopperDropDesignsDec 5, 2011. 8:48 PM
Put some hose clamps on your hoses. Reinforced fuel injection hose is heavier duty than the low pressure stuff too.
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to pfred2Dec 6, 2011. 10:33 AM
Yeah, I would have, but there isn't clearance for the hose clamp. But you are correct, using high pressure line is best!
pfred2 in reply to CopperDropDesignsDec 6, 2011. 12:25 PM
Then maybe twisting some solid wire tightly might do the trick for you?
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to pfred2Dec 6, 2011. 1:59 PM
No need, the hose with the super glue hasn't failed on me yet! I have probably run it for 12+ hours. Thanks, all good suggestions.
kapriece says: Nov 22, 2011. 9:29 PM
where did you get your lead screws
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to kaprieceNov 25, 2011. 9:20 AM
At the hardware store. They are just 1/4" -20 threaded rod! Thanks.
pfred2 in reply to CopperDropDesignsDec 5, 2011. 8:45 PM
Invest in acme 1/2" X 10 TPI threaded rod. then read my article about how to make a tap for your lead nuts. Make lead nuts out of HDPE or Nylon or something.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-an-Acme-Tap/

All thread is a pretty bad lead screw material. Going from 20 to 10 TPI would double your speed too. Mounted correctly you can drive 1/2 X 10 screws 800-2,400 RPM which means you could get rapid motion of 80 to 240 inches per minute.
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to pfred2Dec 6, 2011. 10:36 AM
Good suggestion! That would definitely help reliability and accuracy. My build was an at hand, down and dirty build to show what could be done quickly and easily with common tools and hardware. Good article!
pfred2 in reply to CopperDropDesignsDec 6, 2011. 12:22 PM
All the 1/2 X 10 would get you would be some more speed. The 1/4 X 20 you are using now theoretically is more accurate. But it doubtful you'd notice any more positional accuracy between the two threads on your machine. That is unless you think your machine is accurate to greater than a ten thousandth of an inch.

I think for tolerances that tight you'd had to have used different linear slides etc.
85rocco says: Nov 10, 2011. 11:21 AM
Nice project! Just curious, in hindsight what should you have used for a spindle in place of the Dremel tool?
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to 85roccoNov 10, 2011. 8:14 PM
Thanks! I am probably going to replace it with a Bosch Colt trim router. It's heavier, so I might need a little stronger Z axis stepper motor. You could also probably put a speed control on the dremel to lower the speed, but you still will have run-out.
pfred2 in reply to CopperDropDesignsDec 5, 2011. 8:25 PM
I just got an older model 1608M Bosch Colt router at a flea market for $15. I know score right? Well, I did have to take it all apart and clean it up some but what the hey?

Turns out the older Colts fit right into a piece of 3 inch schedule 80 PVC (well within 3 hundredths of an inch 0.03 nothing a hose clamp can't hold) so guess how I'm going to make my Z axis?

Yeah that's right I'm packing that little honey up inside a piece of pipe and the pipe will slide up and down in a fitted box made out of laminated sheet goods!

I'm like Wiley E. Coyote and stuff, supra genius! heh. The rest of my design is even more ingenious but the world is just going to have to wait until I'm all done before I unveil it.
1608_Clean.jpg
cmanahimik says: Nov 16, 2011. 8:14 PM
sorry if this is stupid but to clarify, all you do is hook up the motors to the tb-6560 and connect that to the computer? and you can use any cad software?
pfred2 in reply to cmanahimikDec 5, 2011. 7:58 PM
There is no direct connection between CAD and CNC. Just a close association. CNC machines are controlled by CAM software. Often CAM input is G-Code generated by parsed output from CAD software. But it doesn't have to be.

So the answer to your question is yes you can use any CAD software. But you haven't really asked the right question. You've confused CAD with CAM.
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to cmanahimikNov 17, 2011. 4:46 AM
Basically, yes. There are factors involved, like finding what wires are what on your stepper motors. I bought ones without labeled wires or any documentation (not recommended) so I had to use a multimeter to sort that out. And you can use just about any cad software, as long as you can save it as a .dxf (autocad) , .hpgl, jpg, or .bmp to convert it to g-code (that's what Mach 3 reads).

As pfred2 stated, I will be editing my instructable to show how I made the connections. I just recently re-wired the controller to It is fresh in my brain.

If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask! Thanks
jayeshshinai says: Nov 27, 2011. 1:50 PM
guys!
anyone got their old cnc drivers and controller tht they don not need and could give me!? yup i cant afford to buy new ones and my machine is ready, and only needs the electronics! The motors iv got hav been rescued from old office printers.
ANYONE??? PLsssss :)
btw, i pay for the shipping!
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to jayeshshinaiNov 28, 2011. 8:25 AM
You can really find stuff cheap online. I bet you could get 3 motors and a TB6560 driver for under $40 shipped. Just keep looking.
bzn0941 says: Nov 27, 2011. 8:35 PM
Great work! This is really inspiring and the best thing, it is affordable for most of us, thanks for the hard work!
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to bzn0941Nov 28, 2011. 8:23 AM
Thank you! That means a lot!
chaosrob says: Nov 16, 2011. 5:44 PM
Sorry, not gonna give you an A+, not even a B+. I'll give it a B-. This growing trend of a 2-3 step -IBLE with a step with 30-100 pictures and a 'video' 'showing off' you great achievment. It looks like a wonderful device.
This is almost as bad as someone who has access to (or worse, OWNS) a LASER CUTTER and 'teases' us with what the 'normal' -IBLE person CANNOT do. This only makes us drool. (Really, who has a few thousand $$$$ in todays economy to buy a "toy" like this???)
I mean, ok, I have yet to make even an -IBLE on how to pick my nose, but, I am looking for more than one long, (basically) run-on paragraph, of what someone did to make such a 'great' device that some of us would love to build. I'm sure is I wasn't so f***-in lazy I could sit and make my own set of instructions, but, like I stated, "I'm **** lazy!". Also, not everyone is able to 'read' some blueprints and work them out into a step-by-step set of plans that winds up creating this AWESOME project. YES, if you (or anyone) is capable of making a device like this (basically from scratch), it's AWESOME. So, CONGRATS of making your CNC machine and enjoy using it.
OK, I changed my mind, I'll give it an A - -.
{I would just lik to see great device(s) also have a 'great' -IBLE to go with them.}
Keep on -IBLE'ing (and I'll work on that nose picking thing!) :-)
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to chaosrobNov 16, 2011. 6:20 PM
Thanks?

It is my first -IBLE, so just bear with me I guess. I'm sure I will get better with practice, and I plan on getting a LOT'S of practice.

I'm very technically minded, but sometimes getting it down on paper (or keyboard) is tricky without sounding like a government document (Impossible to follow).

Thanks, I'll take an A-- for my first try!
pfred2 in reply to CopperDropDesignsNov 16, 2011. 7:11 PM
Isn't this a "Photos" submission? One nice feature of doing photos here is you can add notes to them. Not my most popular article by a long shot, but I used the photo notes feature a lot in it, so I'll offer it as an example of just using the feature. I get really carried away with annotations by about the 5th picture. You can edit your articles whenever here too. But I see you've already figured that out.

To add picture notes bring up the image in article editing mode, then click and drag on it. Then you can move the boxes around, scale them etc. I never get mine quite where I want them right off.
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to pfred2Nov 17, 2011. 5:05 AM
LOL, yes, it is. Any kind of constructive criticism is welcome.

I have been editing it, I keep thinking of important info that I left out. I want to add a good description of the wiring and maybe even a basic walk through of making it move.

Thanks!
phil1990 says: Nov 14, 2011. 9:44 PM
Great design. i spotted these runners in the local Screwfix (in the UK). knew they were perfect, absoloutly no play in them at all. And much simpler and effective design as opposed to the others ive seen on the web. definetly been some inspiration for my own project, im just half way through it by now.

My only question is, what is the horizontal peice of U Section for across the Z Axis? i can see theres a wire inside it from the pics but im baffled after that.

CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to phil1990Nov 14, 2011. 2:04 PM
Thank you!
Yes, you are right, the slides have no play, they work perfectly. Good luck with your build! Glad I could inspire someone.
The U channel you see was an add on I was messing around with. It actually is a LED light bar, so I could see what I was machining. You'll see it after you look again (15th pic). I'll be re-doing this as well, making a round style that fits around the spindle (360 deg. light). Thanks again for the kind words! - Jon
smaug85 says: Nov 13, 2011. 8:11 PM
Aw man, as much as I love Harrison Krix and his Daft Punk helmets, I really think you deserve to win because this project took so much skill on your part, both in building, and software wise, major props man.
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to smaug85Nov 14, 2011. 5:04 AM
Oh wow, thank you! I made this instructable because I really think anyone can build a CNC machine like this as I tried to take all the "mystery" out of it. Thanks again!
bclark84 says: Nov 12, 2011. 7:36 PM
I didn't see where you mentioned what kind of software you're using.
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to bclark84Nov 12, 2011. 1:43 PM
I accidentally left that out, I will edit.

Mach 3 (which you can download for free, but limited to 50 lines of code)
http://www.machsupport.com/

And I do most of my drawing on my Mac, using Turbo Cad Pro.

Thanks!
pfred2 in reply to CopperDropDesignsNov 16, 2011. 4:35 PM
Why don't you use EMC2 which is also free and not limited at all?
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to pfred2Nov 17, 2011. 4:31 AM
That's a good point! I guess I just haven't had the time to learn new software. I will probably check it out soon though. Thank you!
sensoryhouse in reply to CopperDropDesignsNov 14, 2011. 11:36 PM
mac user = winning!
CopperDropDesigns (author) in reply to sensoryhouseNov 15, 2011. 4:14 AM
HA HA!

It should be that easy!
Pro

Get More Out of Instructables

Already have an Account?

close

PDF Downloads
As a Pro member, you will gain access to download any Instructable in the PDF format. You also have the ability to customize your PDF download.

Upgrade to Pro today!