I provide a basic overview of building a wooden gate for a privacy fence.

Step 1: Materials Needed

This ible will be somewhat generalized due to everyone's varied preferences in size and material. Generally speaking though, it's safe to assume you'll need the following to accomplish this.

24" level (or larger)
Drill w/bits
Tape measure
Circular saw
Marking pencil
ratchet w/socket for bolts

Metal hardware

I used pressure treated 2x4x10 for the framework and 6 ft dog eared fence planking. After picking out the hardware you want to use, don't forget to count how every hole. It turned out I would need 48 bolts to get the job done. Also, make sure the bolts aren't going to be longer than the thickness of your 2x4.
<p>Used 56 lag bolts to put this together. Very nice simple design. Thank you for posting this.</p>
<p>We need to put up a short fence for dogs and the debate is whether to run the fence first or the gate. I thought the gate should be set first and the fence run from it but my husband thinks the fence should be up first. Suggestions?</p>
<p>I know this is two years late but I'm posting this so people searching can obtain information from my replay.</p><p>My father owned a custom fence company for over 30 years. I grew up working with my hands building fence. When it comes to the order in which you build, start with the fence first. We always set the gate posts and corner posts with concrete so over time the fence doesn't drift and move out of alignment. Always dig below the frost line and bell out the bottom of the post holes so the concrete has a hard time being pushed out by ice if it does get super cold. Once the fence is built there should of been enough time for the concrete to set. The gate posts should have no problems supporting the weight of the gate now. Of you opt not to use concrete make sure you really compact the dirt around the posts well or the posts will work the hole and become loose.</p><p>One more tip. When pouring concrete for the posts stop 6 inches from the top of the hole and fill with dirt. This hides the concrete and looks clean.</p>
<p>I am sure you can still buy handbook with all info you need on woodprix. Just google it.</p>
<p>This was a very simple project for a very sturdy gate. Great Instructable!</p>
Looks very solid. <br>I am completely new to this. <br>Am going to try this design with my son. <br>Thanks for all of the info.
good info, and a solid gate. I checked it out and would do something similar, except&gt; save some money on the hardware, use 4 L Brackets only in the corners, its easier for a novice to square up the gate utilizing the L's. The middle brace can be toe nailed in using # 8 x 2 1/2 &quot; deck screws....will be plenty solid. Only thing I did not see in your instructions and prob the most critical is, check the dimension from corner to corner....this really tells you how square this frame is. Ifs its more than a half an inch...you need to adjust it. Square is good! Hang the frame and check for clearance before adding pickets...once its in place....clearance is good....go back and place the pickets. You might want to lay them out...left to right and right to left...depending on the hinge side, try to get things even. Worst case senario, you have to play with the picket spacing or cut a picket. Since you are building the fence and the gate....you control the opening and the dimensions..so think ahead. Hope this helps someone...questions just email me at tbhillhouse01@gmail.com.
Nice fence!
Bought all the equipment then built the best gate by eye it's best to use the eye if you are like me 27 years being a butcher helped but wood lived too
Has anyone used the Peak Instagate Gate kit? I need your help because I purchased this product. Its called the Peak Instagate Gate Kit. After reading the installation instructions, it says that the fence boards must be installed on the side where the door opens. Is there any reason why? Maybe it has something to do with load bearing on the hinges? Because my situation is, my door will open inwards but I will install the boards on the outer side. How did you install yours? Will there be any problem if i install the boards opposite where the door opens? Thanks
CHECK THIS OUT !! EASY - GATE <br> <br>You can get it at Home Depot <br> <br>Build a sag-free gate frame in 20 minutes! Works with gate openings of 27&quot; to 72&quot; W with no height restrictions. Fits various lumber sizes (2x4&rsquo;s, 2x6&rsquo;s, etc.) and can be used for left- or right-swinging gate. <br> <br>See the attached picture of the display at Depot.
Have you used this product? I need your help because I purchased this product. Its called the Peak Instagate Gate Kit. After reading the installation instructions, it says that the fence boards must be installed on the side where the door opens. Is there any reason why? Because my situation is, my door will open inwards but I will install the boards on the outer side. How did you install yours? Will there be any problem if i install the boards opposite where the door opens? If there is anyone else who used this product, please advise also. Thanks.
Nice Job! Thanks for the posting. I will be installing a gate for my mother. Unknown neighbor kids keep jumping her fence and cruising through her yard. Your gate looks very solid.
is that shed you workshop ill reall like to have ashed workshop one day
It would be much easier and cheaper to just put a diagonal piece of wood between corners rather than metal brackets. Still, it looks a strong sturdy gate
On all the advice for cross braces: There's a specific way to do that too. You need a solid diagonal (compressive strength) from the bottom of the hinge side to the top of the latch side. Then you need a cable brace with a turnbuckle (tension strength) from the top of the hinge side to the bottom of the latch side. Don't bother gluing it, or adjusting your nailing/screwing points for the slats, those will all eventually fail. As long as you use a turnbuckle for the cable even if it does sag over time you can just tighten it.
Nice looking gate- I'd second Karel's suggestion regarding the addition of cross supports- Even with the corner bracing, when the wood gets wet it will get heavy and eventually sag- I used to build wood fences and we'd actually build the gate in place with 3 2x3's cut slightly smaller (about 3/8") than the opening held in place temporarily with 2" staples, staple the pickets to the face, and using pickets as the diagonal supports. Attach the hinges and hardware clean everything up- the diagonal pickets, along the bottom if needed- with a chainsaw, pull the staples so it would swing free and it was done. Bigger gates- like for a double drive, on a dumpster enclosure, or something, alot of the time we'd use a frame for a chainlink gate and attach pickets to that
I recently had a lot of fencing done, and the only real mess they made was of a gate quite similar to this -- in which they made almost every mistake that could possibly be made. The sag was so great that the gate wouldn't latch two days later, and by the end of the week the gate had sagged into a complete parallelogram that no longer fit between the gate posts. One of the mistakes they ,made was in not realizing, apparently, that since the "fence boards" on this gate are an integral part of the gate structure (not just a wooden facing), it's vitally important to place the nails in these boards as far APART, as close to the edge of each upright board as possible without risking a split. Personally, when I re-do the thing I'll pre-drill and probably use ga;vanized screws instead of nails, and perhaps even use an adhesive caulk to glue everything into place. (If you do this, you'd better make absolutely sure you have every dimension perfect before you glue-and-screw; fixing mistakes will be extremely difficult) If you have a saggy, badly-built gate there are two quick, cheap fixes, and you might even avoid potential problems by working these into the actual design of the gate. One is, of course, the old "screen door tensioner" -- long rods that are threaded into a central device that pulls the ends together as you turn it. You can keep adjusting, as needed. All hardware store have this. The second, more dramatic fix is the one I chose: you pull the saggy gate back up to its proper shape, usually by placing bricks and little thin pieces of wood under the gate until it's hanging perfectly in its closed position. Then you cut a square sheet of plywood (minimum 1/2") that will cover every 2x4 part of the gate. You then screw it onto the INSIDE of the gate with lots and lots of screws, long enough to go thru the plywood and a goodly distance into the 2x4's. You will probably have to cut little pieces out of the edge of the plywood to allow for hinges & latch.etc. Once I did this, the dreadful gate sagged no more, and doesn't even look all that ugly from the inside. It'll do for the time being, and I like the extra strength of the plywood so well that I'm thinking about incorporating a more decorative piece of plywood into the final gate I build... maybe with decorative cutouts or applied molding. Probably pressure-treated ply would be the best choice, unless you plan on applying some preservative every couple of years.
I did forget to mention that I used screws to attach all the fence boards. 2 at top and bottom and 1 in the middle. I've had zero problems thus far with my construction.
Nice. Another way to strengthen the gate, is by inserting one or two diagonal, tight-fitting struts (the lower end of the diagonal should be at the hinges' side). If done tightly enough, the gate will not sag, even without the L-brackets. It's gjommettricks, they tell me.

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