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Step 7: Flexible rubber coupling with hose clamps

The flexible rubber coupling with hose clamps is the trick that makes this all work.

I’m using a 3” to 2” coupling as 3” is the rough diameter of the blower valve and 2” is the size of my PVC pipe. The flexible rubber is lovely since where the leaf blower nozzle on my leaf blower wasn’t a circle but instead a long oval, almost a rounded rectangle.

The Flexible Rubber Coupling fits around where the blower nozzle was previously was and the hose clamps allow for the oddly shaped nozzle to have a custom, leak free fit. The 2” end fits perfectly, as it should, to the standard PVC pipe. You would never know that this wasn’t the original intent for this part.

The leaf blower connects to the 2” PVC pipe via the Flexible Rubber Coupling with Hose Clamps which you tighten by tightening the screws. The connect PVC pipe fits under or through the compost bin wall, and now connect the remaining pipe system.

Finish by capping off all open pipes.

<p>Hi, we have built 3 bays in anticipation of fitting the pipe work. It is difficult getting 2&quot; waste pipes, the standard being 40mm (1 3/4&quot;). could you advise me on the layout of 40mm pipes in each bay? we were thinking of 6 x 1.3m (4 foot) high 40mm pipes per bay, driven by a leaf blower. Given the length of the pipework, would you suggest anything more powerful or is this enough? a lot of interest being shown on Facebook by our construction! kind regards, Clive</p>
<p>i've got 100' length or 3/4 pex left from a remodel.... thinking of how i could use that coil maybe just suspend it. any thoughts? anyone?</p>
vespaskank, you gave me a good idea regarding ordinary electric blower instead of electric motor! Thank you. I'm a guy from cold =)) and distant Russia :P <br> I surfed internet and found that : <br>1) the microbes could require a volume of air &gt; 20 times the volume of compost, every hour (look at the pic with pyramid and notes for it at this link: http://www.magicsoil.com/Research/) <br>2) the oxygen level in the pile drops off very quickly - often to less than 1% within 30 to 45 minutes (source: http://www.o2compost.com/content/Secret.htm) and the previous source says that oxygen drops down even faster - in 15 -20 minutes. <br>I have a plastic container of 1 cubic meter, so I suppose that every hour I should blow in 20 cubic meters in the container. it's easy to calculate that if I have , for example, a blower of capacity 228 m3 in hour tha means I should use it 5.2 minutes in hour. + it's essential to divide this 5.2 minutes to have 4 breaks of about 15 minutes or a bit less. <br>3) It seems that volume of blown in air depends on the moisture content in the compost components....and it often happens that 20X (to a compost's volume) volume of blown air inside can dry the compost a lot. and what if I have a chance to water a compost once a week ? Should I reduce blown air? I think so. But in this case what's the point to blow the air inside if we have 50% of the whole composting period CO2 existence (= anaerobic bacterias) inside. Productivity in this way fall down to 1/2. <br> <br>May be it's better to make a &quot;skeleton&quot; of drilled and connected vertical and horizontal tubes inside the composter and regulate the draft (it's created by heat that's done by bacterias, it's a bit more advanced than guys do in Aerobin 400 ) (you can look at Aerobin here: http://eartheasy.com/yard-garden/composting/aerobin-400-insulated-composter-15-cubic-foot-133-gallon-compost-bin ) <br>I still have a question - Is it possible to regulate the speed of air flow/ time of its work properly not to dry the compost and have FAST composting speed. Or it's better to make a passive ventilation with tubes (I mean for summer season use)? Do you have an idea/ experience of your own? Thank you ! <br>;) <br>
Very good project, congratulations!
Thank you for you feedback!<br> <br><br> <br>Step 10 <em>&quot;Setting up the automatic timer&quot;</em> briefly talks about timing:<br> <br><br> <br><em>I recommend starting out with twice a day for 5 to 15 minutes, it depends on the timer you bought and the settings you have available. Originally I had a fully adjustable timer and had it set, to run 10 minutes 4 times a day but I found it dried out quickly and it never maintained a core temp of 140 degrees.<br> <br><br> <br>Through trial and error of compost troubleshooting I&rsquo;ve gotten adjusted to work for twice a day for 15 minutes and it now it keeps a good moisture level, no smells or odors and has a consistent all over temperature of 140 degrees which means good microbe activity.</em><br> <br><br> <br>More specifically <strong>Ismith254</strong>, I've found the you may have to change the frequency depending on the weather, for example I live in Seattle where it rains a lot even in the summer and even though my piles are covered there is some leaching and leaking, so I find that if I add another internal of even 5 minutes it will help to aerate and dry the pile out enough to keep the balance I need.<br> <br><br> <br>Again it really is troubleshooting and trial and error based on your setup and the number of holes in your pipe. For some people and climates every other day for 5 minutes will be enough, and for others 2-3 times a day for 5-15 minutes may be better to keep the right balance.<br> <br><br> <br>Just play with the time and moisture levels until you find out what keeps your compost thermometer at 140 degrees continuously. Hope this helps!<br>
Thank you, somehow I missed that part. Thanks for sharing the knowledge!
I scanned through everything, and could not see anything about how long you leave the blower on? Is it only for a few minutes a day? Thanks!
Thank you for you feedback!<br> <br> Step 10 <em>&quot;Setting up the automatic timer&quot;</em> briefly talks about timing:<br> <br> <em>I recommend starting out with twice a day for 5 to 15 minutes, it depends on the timer you bought and the settings you have available. Originally I had a fully adjustable timer and had it set, to run 10 minutes 4 times a day but I found it dried out quickly and it never maintained a core temp of 140 degrees.<br> <br> Through trial and error of compost troubleshooting I&rsquo;ve gotten adjusted to work for twice a day for 15 minutes and it now it keeps a good moisture level, no smells or odors and has a consistent all over temperature of 140 degrees which means good microbe activity.</em><br> <br> More specifically <strong>Ismith254</strong>, I've found the you may have to change the frequency depending on the weather, for example I live in Seattle where it rains a lot even in the summer and even though my piles are covered there is some leaching and leaking, so I find that if I add another internal of even 5 minutes it will help to aerate and dry the pile out enough to keep the balance I need.<br> <br> Again it really is troubleshooting and trial and error based on your setup and the number of holes in your pipe. For some people and climates every other day for 5 minutes will be enough, and for others 2-3 times a day for 5-15 minutes may be better to keep the right balance.<br> <br> Just play with the time and moisture levels until you find out what keeps your compost thermometer at 140 degrees continuously. Hope this helps!<br>

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