Step 10: Cut List
It should be obvious, but always wear eye and hearing protection with loud power equipment.
A) Table saw
1) Because we a) wanted greater knee clearance under the work surface and b) had to clear a surface-mounted plastic pipe on the wall (it comes from the furnace humidifier), we ripped 2x4s on the table saw to get 2x1 3/4" stock.
2) We ripped the 4x8 plywood into 2 24" x 8' shelves
3) We reconfigured a 4'x4' (16 square feet) pegboard into a 3'x4' plus a 1'x3' (adding up to 3' high by 5' wide) plus a 1'x1' scrap.
4) The fire doors were different sizes, and added up to 13'6" in length, which caused clearance problems. On the table saw, we ripped them both to 28" deep and in one case, made a slightly unpleasant discovery: in the recent past, some fire doors now resemble drywall in that they feature a cement core. The saw made quick work of the cut, but the dust was extremely thick. After ripping the wood door to width and while it was still outside the house in the garage, we sanded off the old finish on the better side with an orbital sander.
5) We ripped scrap plywood to size for two shelves that were mounted above the workbench: a laptop shelf was 13"x24" and a shelf for tape measures and other items that didn't hang well on the pegboard measured 6"x12".
B) Chop saw
1) For the 12' shelf rails, we used an 8-footer plus a 45-inch piece. Combined with two end pieces at 1 1/2" apiece, that adds up to an even 12 feet. Some 45-inchers were the ripped 2x4 while others were full with 2x4s.
2) The end pieces (6 of them) were 25 1/2" each, spanning the 24" of the shelf plus the front leg on each side.
3) At roughly the 4' and 8' marks of the rails, we included a cross brace so that the plywood shelves could join on a solid surface. These pieces, 4 in all, measured 21" (24 - (1 1/2x2)).
4) 2 front legs at the corners were 2x4s cut to 36". The middle legs were 2x6 because the rails needed a base on which to join. Technically we only needed one 2x6 but we used two for symmetry.
5) To support a computer shelf on the wall above the work surface, we mitered 2 2x4s at 45-degree angles. In addition, we cut 2 12" 2x4s, one as a screwdriver rack and the other as a cleat for the tape measure shelf.
A) Table saw
1) Because we a) wanted greater knee clearance under the work surface and b) had to clear a surface-mounted plastic pipe on the wall (it comes from the furnace humidifier), we ripped 2x4s on the table saw to get 2x1 3/4" stock.
2) We ripped the 4x8 plywood into 2 24" x 8' shelves
3) We reconfigured a 4'x4' (16 square feet) pegboard into a 3'x4' plus a 1'x3' (adding up to 3' high by 5' wide) plus a 1'x1' scrap.
4) The fire doors were different sizes, and added up to 13'6" in length, which caused clearance problems. On the table saw, we ripped them both to 28" deep and in one case, made a slightly unpleasant discovery: in the recent past, some fire doors now resemble drywall in that they feature a cement core. The saw made quick work of the cut, but the dust was extremely thick. After ripping the wood door to width and while it was still outside the house in the garage, we sanded off the old finish on the better side with an orbital sander.
5) We ripped scrap plywood to size for two shelves that were mounted above the workbench: a laptop shelf was 13"x24" and a shelf for tape measures and other items that didn't hang well on the pegboard measured 6"x12".
B) Chop saw
1) For the 12' shelf rails, we used an 8-footer plus a 45-inch piece. Combined with two end pieces at 1 1/2" apiece, that adds up to an even 12 feet. Some 45-inchers were the ripped 2x4 while others were full with 2x4s.
2) The end pieces (6 of them) were 25 1/2" each, spanning the 24" of the shelf plus the front leg on each side.
3) At roughly the 4' and 8' marks of the rails, we included a cross brace so that the plywood shelves could join on a solid surface. These pieces, 4 in all, measured 21" (24 - (1 1/2x2)).
4) 2 front legs at the corners were 2x4s cut to 36". The middle legs were 2x6 because the rails needed a base on which to join. Technically we only needed one 2x6 but we used two for symmetry.
5) To support a computer shelf on the wall above the work surface, we mitered 2 2x4s at 45-degree angles. In addition, we cut 2 12" 2x4s, one as a screwdriver rack and the other as a cleat for the tape measure shelf.
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Just throwing that out there for people to consider.
Other than that it looks like a great workspace (so envious...)
That being said I would still wear a mask while drilling through the doors for that reason.
It was quite alarming reading what you had just posted regarding asbestos .
any asbestos big or small , and in any quantity is bad for you . Wearing a mask will not stop it getting to your lungs .
We have a huge problem of asbestos in the uk , especially in public building like schools and recently there has been several articles of teachers dying from asbestos related diseases - you figure .
if its affecting some teachers , imagine what its doing to the pupils.
Many firefighters and police that helped during September attacks , are experiencing asbestos related illnesses , see link below
http://www.9-11heroes.us/asbestos.php
so , in hindsight , please bear in mind that its will affect you no matter what you wear and could affect your health in the future .
I don't think twice about grabbing my asbestos blanket to use on jobs if it means the difference between burning down a house or not. Being in a burning building is hazardous to everyone!
There are masks that do filter it, they're expensive.
Any particulate product is best to do the drilling outside, wash workshop clothes seperately and directly after use.
Many people died due to dust coming off clothing. It only takes a few fibres to cause the damage.
I did an instructable about making bandaids from fungus in the forest and had plenty of hysterical 'think of the children' types from lifehacker saying how bad it was etc, so I know where you're coming from. It's a good 'ible regardless and there's no need for disclaimers.
Take care when reusing materials that you don't know the history of!
(I deconstructed a space heater recently filled with asbestos, did it safely, double bagged everything and disposed of responsibly. The bricks were cleaned and I literally eat off them now as they're in my pizza oven!)
pfred2 when you are using an asbestos blanket do you cut/grind/sand/shred it?