This Instructable is for the build instructions for our new AVR ISP Shield Kit for Arduino. Its development owes a great deal to Instructables and our own community (particularly Nick!) and I hope to explain some of that along the way. 

Some astute Instructablites have asked. What does this do? Well essentially this shield can turn your Arduino into a quite capable chip programmer. What's more is that it can allow your Arduino to make more Arduino compatible devices. So with this shield, a bit of code and some some spare chips you can replicate what your Arduino does for a fraction of the cost. Not only using the same chip as your Arduino uses but also some smaller cheaper ones too. Like the ATTiny85. 

Let me start by saying to program an AVR chip with an Arduino you don't need a shield or even a crystal if you're programming Arduino bootloaders. But if you plan on doing it more than once a shield is going to save you some headaches as setting up a breadboard each time and then worrying about debugging is a pain...

The project is open sourced and the PCB files can be found on our Github.
The kit itself on our website at www.phenoptix.com

Step 1: The BOM and Tools

First things first. You don't need to buy our kit to do this and if you really like the kit you can even build them for yourself / hackspace  / makerspace and sell them! For that you're going to need a bill of materials

Right so you've got the gear. Now plug in that soldering iron!
<p>Recently, there was a change in the &quot;arduinoISP&quot; sketch that swapped a pin, does this reflect this change? <br><br>Also,<br> why kicad instead of eagle? Eagle is easily converted into other PCB <br>software formats, whereas kicad doesn't really play nice when it comes to being <br>converted to other softwares. Sure, you could export gerber files, but you lose quite a lot of data, and the schematic. </p>
Not sure on the change as don't make these anymore, would be worth comparing the code linked with the recent code change.<br><br>KiCad because it's free for all, for any size. It's a pretty simple board, if you can use Eagle I'm sure you could replicate it in about 20 minutes. Please attribute if you do! ;)
<p>just bought a kit of ebay, and am eagerly awaiting delivery to solder it up, and get it working :D</p><p>One quick question. Will this work with the standard arduino isp sketch? or do I have to use yours? I've got both saved, so not an issue either way, just intrested :)</p>
Do you have a link to the kit Dan? Best to use our sketch as there are a few differences, if it's one of our ISP Shields.
<p>It was just a bid one, where someone had just the one. Apparently it was an unwanted present. It is one of your kits (arrived today), it has your logo and website and everything, even on a red pcb.</p>
<p>Cool, then yes use our script, you'll get the correct LEDs working that way!</p>
<p>(after changing the LED pins on the standard sketch obviously)</p>
<p>I can not get the files from your site. Can you post them here?</p><p>I tried to get the schematic and pcb files but eagle says they aren't eagle files.</p>
<p>I've taken the liberty of revewing this product on my blog; http://blog.jacobean.net/?p=918. Hope you don't mind &amp; if there's anything factually incorrect, please don't hesitate to contact me.</p>
<p>Fantastic kit. Quick delivery &amp; great value for money. Resister values weren't as picture on this page but worked just fine (tested before soldering).</p><p>&quot;You can now program Arduino Bootloaders from within the IDE and also the AVR chips listed with AVRDUDE, but I'll explain how to do all that on a less product oriented Instructable.&quot;. Is this Instructable on how to program avaible?</p>
<p>I spaghetti faced it and I'm not even ashamed. I'm not quite into etching yet but it's starting to be clear that it's probably not much more work in the long run and looks quite a bit nicer.</p>
<p>That's super amazing! I love it!</p>
<p>Nice work.</p>Any thought on using ZIF sockets instead of normal IC sockets ?<br>
<p>Yes, but the idea with this shield was to keep it cheap for beginners. I'm working on an update with a ZIF at the moment.</p>
Good instructable!<br><br>Just a tip for the novice solderers out there: always tin your iron. You don't need a glob on there, just enough so the liquid solder contacts the pins and pads. Doing this greatly increases the heat transfer compared to a dry iron because the heat travels through the solder which covers a lot more surface area on the component instead of just a point contact between the component and iron. This greatly reduces the time the iron needs to be touching the pins and pads, decreasing the chance of lifting a trace because things got too hot while trying to get a good joint. <br><br>With some practice you will find the perfect amount of solder to make the connection so you won't need to feed solder into the joint and you won't have a big glob to deal with. (this applies to the first pin, after that the iron will retain some solder from feeding, with practice you'll find the perfect amount of solder to feed at each joint to get a nice shiny joint (or dull if using lead free. Tip: lead free requires a higher temp which in turn needs more heat transfer which requires a pencil iron with more power or better yet an adjustable temp iron. I picked up a hakko from fry's for pretty cheap) while retaining just enough to get good heat transfer at the next joint)<br><br>This is a rather simple soldering job with just sockets and pins, but if you are soldering a thru hole component it is a good idea to jump back and forth across a DIP as well as up and down a row to prevent heat buildup in the component. I usually do one corner, jump across and up to the opposite corner, down the row to the pin across from the first, then jump across and up to the opposite corner. All 4 corners should now be done, then go to the pin next to the first and repeat the sequence until finished.
<p>wow what a comment! Great soldering advise. Just to clarify on my glob of solder method, its specifically for one handed pinning on large multipin items. Otherwise simple tinning as you suggest.</p><p>Also do you know Nial? You two could have mammoth email exchanges!</p>
Yeah, I tend to go overboard in my comments when it deals with giving advice. Don't know Nial, but I'm sure some epic exchanges could be had. <br><br>I tend to be able to talk tech with someone forever, something inherited from my dad. <br><br>This happens to be the single biggest problem in technique as far as I'm concerned. I wasn't digging on your 'glob'method, I should have used a different word. I actually do the same thing, a large amount of solar on the Iron (as long as you get to the joint quickly before the flux vaporizes) transfers the heat supporter quick, and then I'll just drag the Iron along a few pins until its time to tin again. <br><br>A small glob also works great for surface mount IC's. You can just drag the Iron across the pins and then get rid of any bridges after. That is most effective when using flux on the pads and a board that has been masked, a proto board that isn't masked is a nightmare. <br><br>Oh, one more thing, I like to tin the Iron and let the flux burn off or use solder without flux when I'm done for the day so the Iron is protected during storage, just make sure that you let the flux burn off if you're using rosin or acid core so the Iron doesn't get pitted.
<p>Nice instuctable, but you might want to add in your intro what exactly an ISP Shield for Arduino does. What is its purpose to those not initiated?</p>
<p>My thought entirely. What on earth is it??!!</p>
<p>Good point well made chaps. Have added a paragraph on the first page that should shed some light on that very subject.</p>
<p>Thanks for the addition, it helps me try and figure out how much more I still need to learn about! </p>
<p>for several years now. Though technically they are ultraviolet with blue phosphor, just as white LEDs are ulltraviolet with white phosphor.</p>
<p>No. There are true UV leds all the way down to 365nm and beyond.</p><p>No phosphor. See:</p><p><a href="http://www.mouser.com/Optoelectronics/_/N-5g5v?Keyword=ultraviolet&FS=True&gclid=CNvcipLoprwCFUHNOgodGX8ADg" rel="nofollow">http://www.mouser.com/Optoelectronics/_/N-5g5v?Keyword=ultraviolet&amp;FS=True&amp;gclid=CNvcipLoprwCFUHNOgodGX8ADg</a></p>
<p>Yes, but unless I'm misunderstanding this, blue and white LEDs are actually UV LEDs with phosphors to make visible blue or white light.</p>
<p>Blue and UV leds are direct emitters, no phosphor.</p><p>Only wht leds have an orangish phosphor,</p><p>to combine with some leaked blue light to appear white.</p><p>A long time ago, </p><p>there were some obscure pink and purple (non uv) leds that</p><p>were phosphor based. You dont see them any more.</p>
<p>Blue LEDs have been available for years. You can even get ultraviolet LEDs.</p>
lol I would be supprised if they did not exist.<br>I just have never seen them sold. I've only seen red, yellow, or green tinted LEDs sold usually. Any other colors would not use tint... until I saw this.
<p>Could your shield be used without a Arduino?</p><p>You have a ICSP header could I connect a AVR programmer?</p><p>Might need a power header.</p><p>Nice structable thanks.</p>
<p>It could with some hacking. You can use it as a standard AVR Programmer with the headers though. I have a V2 in the works so to speak that would function as a stand alone programmer. Complete with ZIF socket and external power adapter.</p>
Now I would like V2, let me know when you make it up.<br><br>rhulslander g mail
<p>which version of eagle are you using? i am using 6.5.0 and it s give me the error </p><p>&quot;Error:</p><p>line 1, column 1: Start tag expected.&quot;</p><p>when opening either file.</p>
<p>KiCad my good man! This project is Open Source all the way down!</p>
TSJWang, so you have radio shack where you live? they sell all sorts of colors of leds, they have blue and I get uv (blacklight) leds there all the time, I wanna make a led cube with em but at a buck a piece thatd get real expensive real fast lol
<p>While everyone is recommending LED suppliers, I can recommend these guys with complete impartiality! http://www.phenoptix.com/collections/leds Admittedly shipping to the states is either expensive or slow though.</p>
<p>Radio Shack is expensive, period, and personally, I'm not all that impressed with the quality of some of their individual components. Look around at some of the electronics parts houses online, you can get them MUCH cheaper than The Shack if you're going to buy in quantity.</p>
Thank you, I'll definitely have to look into that! :)
Mouser and digikey are good as well and have nearly any component you need. I only give the shack money when I'm in a pinch.
<p>A buck a piece is a total ripoff! Check out Tayda Electronics http://www.taydaelectronics.com/leds/round-leds.html Prices range from 2-27 Cents each!</p>
<p>in github, i can view the .sch and.brd files as text, but i can't figure out how to download the file as .brd and .sch</p>
You can download the whole thing as a zip on the main page is your best bet, otherwise view as raw and save the page as the file. I'm a bit of a github novice to be honest!
<p>exactly what i needed to know, apparently i'm even more of a novice than you, thanks!</p>
I definitely will. I have an EMSL shield and have been sitting on the fence about adding ATTiny support to it. now I dont have too! I just started exploring etching so it's going to be a little while, but I am exxited about this one.
<p>I'm really pleased and would be stoked to see your board! It's one of the reasons I avoid vias in my boards.</p>
sweet. my first etch project. Unless you have US distributors... Seriously, that is awesome what you did here. Thank you!
<p>please go for it!</p>

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