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Signing UpStep 1: The Chassis
The chassis was a simple "Ladder" design made from 19mm aluminium square section tubing. This is easy to work and light as well as moderately low cost.
The various sections were joined with aluminium plates and pop rivets. We followed a Greenpower design as the basis for our car but made numerous changes along the way.











































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You can get DC motors second hand but they are surprisingly rare these days. About the best source is Ebay and ex golf cart motors or up to 300 watts (claimed) electric scooters.
2.5 hp at 130 VDC
17.2 AMPS
7090 RPM
25C
Class B
Thermal switch: 120 VAC MAX. 1800 VA MAX
Im kind of unsure as to what most of these mean lol and would it be a good candidate for a small go kart like yours?
2. Other than that it looks very useful.
Power is a function of Voltage and current so As you increase the voltage you can reduce the required current for a given power. This is why the F1 KERS systems use 300 volts + to power their system.
thanks for the comment.
In actual fact it will fall somewhat short of this if you expect it to recharge and have much of a life.
Assuming the motor is 24 volt you may get 3/4 to 1 hour real running out of it. In principle the 100 watt motor will draw 4.amps to produce 100 watts at 24 volts.
100 watts is a little small for powering much other than a very light weight scooter. 200 - 250 would be better and not a lot more expensive.
in this car a 70 Ahr battery gave us about 2 hours running flat out - 30 Mph.
You have to understand the rules. The drive must be able to exit the car in under 6 seconds - a wheel gets in the way and to make it removable as in F1 is just too complicated. This isn't intended to be a raod car but has been built for a precise purpose.
As to having poor drivers in the UK I see in the current Formula 1 line up drivers from the UK - Australia, Germany Scandinavia in fact all over Europe and south America but No North American drivers have driven since 1993 and ever won the drivers championship.
Perhaps your driving experience is more suited for driving round simple oval circuits?
it's easy to be critical when you don't have the full picture!
A easy way to make a quick disconnect steering wheel is to use a socket wrench extension and a socket with a nut welded into it that is bolted to a steering wheel.
Use air socket wrench parts as they are better built for this purpose.
You can also use impact wrench extensions and the universal joints on them with small gas and electric motors if you have to mount a motor offset.
Ensure you FULLY understand and comply with the rules.
Brakes are a BIG failure point - make sure the exceed the minimum demand.
When you race take spare tires and inner tube (You will get punctures)
Make a tool/parts list make sure you take them all.
Get to the race early so you can unpack, set up and get scrutinised.
Make sure every member of the team has a job to do and does it -
Practice packing and unpacking, changing batteries and drivers a LOT.Try to have more team members than the minimum or you will find some days not everyone turns up.
try to involve parents.
Our down fall was that it took so long to change the tire that put us out of the running.
Build simple and reliable, you will outlast may of the fancy, even corporate entries who have spent BIG money on their vehicle.
Find somewhere to let your drivers practice driving. This can be really difficult as wide open spaced are few and far between.
Remember every year you need to bring in new members. We used to keep the car in the school foyer as an advert - It not only impressed pupils but Ofsted as well.
try hard to get a range of staff interested so your not short of adults when you need to race. i was lucky that out groundsman was interested and almost always available.
I have decided to split the current through 2 relays as I couldnt find any 40A relays. I am using 2, 350w 24v 19A 2550rpm motors geared down so they have suffient torque.
I am using light wieght alluminuim for the frame
Thanks
Oscar
How about brakes? Stopping is more important than going!!!
Have you modified an existing kart or built from scratch. Getting steering right is very tricky.
The steering is still needing to be perfected.. The spindles and the steering column work fine its just i need to find sutiable push rods and joiners. I used m6 bolts (the long ones you can cut to size) but it keeped locking up.
Thanks
Oscar
Well There are some serious issues here.
Please people who are interested read the whole instructable AND follow the links for further information/
Please research what others are doing. IF we could get 100 MPH from 2 car batteries and go 500 miles then Ford etc would be already doing that!
Lastly please attend to the points below.
1. This is a BIG task - I also made an electric car fro my collage degree and it took me almost a year of very long hours and hard work to do - make sure you can finish the task.
2. You will not get 50 - 60 MPH and a reasonable distance on a couple of car batteries. THINK - if this were possible then commercial manufacturers would be doing it.
3. You must do some in depth research there is a LOT of information on the web, this is only a starting place. You must look to see what others have done and how they did it or you are bound to fail. As a teacher of design I am worried that you don't have enough grasp of the essential issues to complete the task.
4. At best you will probably get about 30 or 40 MPH on the flat for about 2 hours from 2 car batteries - so a range of about 60 miles.
5. The most energy dense electrical power supply at present that is easily available is Lithium ion batteries like in mobile phones BUT these are going to cost you a LOT. commercial cars combine a HUGE power pack with a higher voltage motor to get a better power to current rate.
6. Our motor was 250 watts and if you rad all of the instructable and follow the links you will see runs at about 2000 RPM and was geared to give 35 MPH at the wheels - I leave it to you to work out what the gearing has to be as it depends on the wheels you use.
7. Our car cost us about £1500 to build say $3000 so it isn't a cheap project to do well.
8. Your better bet would be to develop a part of such a system and show how it is integrate into the whole vehicle.
9. For a commercial day to day car you will need to look at Pulse width modulation speed control. This will give good control without wasting energy, Energy recovery on braking (KERS system). A suitable material and construction for a VERY light weight body/chassis. A suitable source of mechanical running gear. Some way to steer and some way to stop the vehicle.
10. As I said at the start It is a long and complex engineering problem, it can be done - we did it, but you MUST ensure you have the time and skills to complete the task.
Good luck
I would like to know what gear ratio you are using? And does gearing the motor down increase the torque. eg. a 300w motor geared down so 1 revalution of the wheel is 5 revalutions of the motor, would mean the torque is equivelant to 1.5kw motor?
thanks
oscar
Thanks
The breaker protects against excess current - initially we set it to 75 amps but later changed it for a 100 amp breaker - That is a LOT of amps. -
The motor is controlled by a simple on off push button - this quite enough for the type of racing was were doing anything more complicated adds weight and gives a higher failure chance.
It is IMPORTANT you use correctly rated automotive wire for this as the motor can and does draw around 75 to 90 amps on occasion. A car battery is quite capable of melting insulation and wire and starting a fire so safety MUST be a first concern.
I have two motors and each one draws about 19amps. I am also using a automotive relay to switch the power on and off. I know the the gauge of wire for the motor connections have to be thick but for switching it on, does it have to be thick?
My gauge of wire is that type out UK (united kingdom) extension leads, I dont know how to measure it ?
Oscar
Are they driving the same wheel? if not will they run at the same speed?
Your 1.5 mm mains cable should be OK cable is measured by it's cross sectional area.
I am wiring two, motors wired in parrelel that draw about 19 amps each, I guess i should be looking at a 40A relay?
You really should should use a Pulse Width Modulating (PWM) controller, because it lets you control how much amperage is running through the motor, which is really important when starting from a dead stop.
You may want to try to charge the batteries in parallel if you have a strong enough charger, which will reduce how long the batteries sit in a drained state. We have actually gotten our batteries to read 30 volts total, when completely charged.
For the motor I would go for a Lynch/Etek motor, the Lynch is hand assembled, while the Etek was machine assembled (no longer made). Another alternative is to get a controller and a motor from http://www.marselectricllc.com/
You could visit Cedar Rapids Kennedy to find some information on batteries, motors, motor control, and chargers. They have a very competitive team, I think they were the first to get over 35 mph.
If this was easy we would all be riding electric cars now.
there's more to cars than regular transportation and ease
The Greenpower contest and web site www.greenpower.co.uk/gallery/index.php has many good examples of how to do it. BUT easy it aint!
http://www.greenpower.co.uk/gallery/index.php
We are allowed a push start - PWM has not yet proven in 10 years of this contest to be a sure winner at all. There is much thoguht that free wheel is good to allow you to boost and coast to reduce battery usage.
You will be able to get off load voltages of around 14 to 14.5 ish volts although it quickly falls back once under load.
Had a look at the sites - We wouldn't be able to run those cars as they are fully covered. Our rear wheels also have to be at least 500 mm apart. Otherwise our new car has many of the same body features.
Long and low.
2500mm (9 feet) long and only 700 mm (2' 3) high - that's about knee hight.
If you study what the commercial systems do they tend to use special low loss motors coupled with BIG expensive banks of Lipo batteries or similar to reduce weight whilst giving a high energy density.
As a home build you are far better off with low voltage motors (and therefore high current -) and good old readily available lead acid batteries. around 24 to 36 volts seems to be about optimum power for weight.
Reduce the weight of the vehicle by using aluminium and a light weight body 9 Carbon Fibre is good or better no body at all. (see the aerial Atom - www.arielmotor.co.uk/full_screen_v2.html) accept that speed and range do not go together and go from there. It involves complicated engineering, a lot of time and development as well as spending some real cash. Sorry no easy route everyone would like it otherwise.
As an aside most wall warts do not use transformers any more they use a type of power supply called a switch mode power supply. and so wouldn't work anyway.
You don't say how big your car is intended to be - person carrying or a model??
Assuming the car is not a small model.
A 9 volt battery has very little current capacity. they are intended for powering transistor radios and the like.
taking a transformer to increase the voltage will automatically reduce the current available to almost nothing. There is nothing for free!
You will need at least a 12 volt car battery - perhsps 2 depenfing on how big / heavy your car is and how fast you want it to go.
Even if it is a model you can expect to be using a battery pack similar to the radio control car batteries.
Assuming you want to achieve a reasonable speed (say 20 to 30 MPH then you are looking at an electric motor of >250 watts. Typically a wheelchair type motor without the low speed gear box or one made for an electric vehicle.
To produce 250 watts for a fe mins you need either a lead acid battery (car type) OR a bank of other batteries capable of giving around 20 Amps of current at 24 volts or 40 amps of current at 12 volts or for at least 5 mins.
This is going to be a considerable banks of rechargable batteries 9and quite costly) even the car battery here in the UK costs about $80 and lasts a year under race conditions.
There is NO way around this - if there was we would all be driving electric cars now.
Alternative? - and I haven't tried this - you could use a mains generator - there are plenty about and drive a mains motor again plentiful BUT the law will regard this as a petrol powered vehicle.
Perhaps if low cost - different - transport is what you need have a look at ground hugger An electric assist drive could be added.
You must remember that our car is designed for a race series and wouldn't do very well in normal road / traffic conditions. - if it were that easy every car company in the world would be making them. -
For the 4 hours we run and the 100 miles + we can cover it serves its purpose. In traffic it would be much less distance and would need to be more complex even as a basic go kart.
The reason why no alternator is 100% efficient is because there is wasted energy. In the motor (for say) 50w of energy is applied. Some of that will be turned into heat and sound and finally the rest into kinetic energy. Then theirs also friction with the tires on the ground. heat sound in the alternator too.
[quote]
When energy is transferred,
some of the energy turns into forms we don't want.
This energy is called wasted energy.
Wasted energy takes the form of heat and sometimes sound or light.
[/quote source http://www.gcsescience.com/pen20-energy-efficiency.htm]
Once you know how fast the wheel is going in Revs per min and how far it is round you can work out how far the wheel travels in a min and so multiply by 60 for MPH.
HOWEVER your motor will have an ideal speed to run at for maximum power. For this you need a data sheet for the motor. e.g. mine was 2000 RPM at this speed it draws 20 amps. and produces maximum torque. So the gear ratios were chosen as a compromise between acceleration and top speed verses battery life.
A spread sheet would help you out.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FIRST_Robotics
Here are the links to the UK teams that i know of:
https://my.usfirst.org/myarea/index.lasso?page=teaminfo&team=1933&event_type=FRC
https://my.usfirst.org/myarea/index.lasso?page=teaminfo&team=1884&event_type=FRC
Most teams would be glad to have a few more sets of hands to work on the robots. This years build season is over, but there is next year. And it would be best to ask now, to be sure you can be apart of the other teams, that is if you can't come up with the overly large sum of money required.
Read some informative comments & answers.
What are most teams using to make the body kits? Also what material for the screen?
The aluminium body is very light and was hand formed over the chassis with little drawing but a lot of head scratching. Cut out with a jig saw and lots of pop rivets.
Greenpower will give you lots more ideas for bodies
The screen is perspex (clear acrylic_ easily available at DIY outlets here in the UK. Bent with a hot air gun over the edge of a table.
There are other ways to measure drag easily without a wind tunnel detailed on the web. Much can be done empirically rather than using complex maths etc.
Build one - its good fun.
Also, your link to Greenpower has a "." after "uk", rendering it invalid Here's the good link: http://www.greenpower.co.uk/about/
I must try this. How would you go about putting basic (not off road, but not racetrack) suspension in this? Feel free to contact me.
And just out of interest, did you fiugre out the range? Thanx for a great i'ble
Although my wheels are designed for a wheel chair. Our new car uses 4 x 20 inch standard BMX bike wheels. Also uses a 3 speed gear box to better use the motor power.
4wd is theoretically possible but would be complicated to do easily, also expensive because of all the gears.
2 Car batteries give 24 volts - this is not dangerous IF you are sensible and understand how to deal with the batteries and care for them.
In your case you would more than likely be better off thinking about using a lawn mower engine to drive a small buggy - there are plans on the web. to build things like This
The choice was made from calculations to acheive a top speed at 2000 of about 30 MPH - Actually we seem to ba about 28 MPH peak speed from road tests so the gearing needs to be raised slighthly - 1 or 2 teeth.
Many engineering suppliers will provide a range of gears which they sell to fit to electric motors. have a search in your area because any addresses I give you will be UK based and not a lot of use.
The greenpower site has a number of links to UK suppliers where you can get a feel for the type of product you need to be looking for.
Remember we are running very light! and get about 40 miles from our 2 batteries - If you load it up the range will drop dramatically (that's why ther e are, as yet, few dedicated electric cars on the road)
Imagine you have a car built by 11 to 15 year old students that is capable of 40 to 50 MPH. You go to a race track and put 11 year old drivers in the car!!!
It has to be controlled and safe or we couldn't do it so very strict rules - See [http://www.greenpower.co.uk. Greenpower]
As you can see from the Youtube video at video
The car works fine - any minor self turning effects are automatically corrected by the drivers who do not report the car pulling to one side at all.
Wait for next years model! now that will be good. in the build at present. Sleeker, Faster and that cool I want one.
I think you may have read more into my observation than I thought was there. I wasn't suggesting a gearing system.
I was thinking of replacing your drive sprocket with a centrifugal go kart clutch. When used with gasoline motors, at idle the wheels do not receive power. As the power increases the clutch engages. Currently, your motor is direct drive to the wheel. That must be a bit jerky as the power slams on and off. A centrifugal clutch like this would probably put much less stress on your motor. It would also make it much more "youth friendly" as it would apply the drive power more smoothly. Not a thrilling plant-you-in-the-seat feeling but you would be much less prone to damaging your motor.
If you want gearing without a gearbox you could replace your chain and sprockets with a torque converter and have the effect of a clutch and variable gearing without a gearbox, shifter, clutch pedal, etc. Not the cheapest way to go but sounds like it would achieve many of your stated goals.
http://www.greenpower.co.uk/about/
sorry