Built In Book Cases

For this project, we needed built-in book cases for a long wall. By using pre-drilled melamine laminated boards and pre-built cabinets from the local home store, we were able to build them with a minimum of tools, and get a perfect fit to the room.

Step 1: Materials

The book cases are made from a series of frames - pre-drilled shelf hole melamine on the sides, and 3/4" plywood on the tops and bottoms.  All the middle ones have a pre-made cabinet under them, and the leftover space was divided in half, to have a narrower bookshelf on each end to fit the room end-to-end.

The cabinets are pre-built and 36" wide and about 13" deep.

Melamine laminated sides - they are sold as 12" wide, but are actually 11.75" wide.  These are pre-drilled with shelf pin holes.

Plywood top & bottom & shelf above cabinet - we used 3/4" hardwood laminated - Luan or Birch is fine.

Plinth blocks (5" high and 2.5" wide) and rosettes (2.5" square)

Fluted molding - 2.25" wide

front edge trim molding

bottom and top trim 1"x3"

shelves - 3/4" plywood with 1"x2" front edges

shelf pins and knobs for the cabinet doors

crown molding

Step 2: Section Frames

Each section of the book case is based on the width of the cabinets we used.  The cabinets are wrapped in the frame, so the outside frame width will be the width of the cabinet plus 1.5" (3/4" for each side) plus a tiny bit for the melamine veneer.  So, we measured the wall, divided it up into the number of frames that will fit.  There was some left over, so we made narrower bookshelves on each end (with no cabinets).  In our case, we could have done one more cabinet, but the sides would have been too narrow to look good, so we used one less cabinet box and the result looks pretty good.

The cabinet frames are pretty easy to make.  We didn't use any fancy joinery, but you are welcome to! :-)  The cabinets have three fixed shelves; one for the bottom of the cabinet, one for the top of the cabinet, and one at the top of the frame.  The frames go from the floor to almost the ceiling, and the cabinets fit inside the frame.

The length of the fixed shelves is the same as the width of the cabinets - in our case, 36".  The width of the top and bottom fixed shelves is the same as the melamine sides (11.75").  The width of the middle shelf on top of the cabinets is wider to get some overhang over the cabinets (noted below).

The top edge of the bottom shelf was set to the height of the baseboard + 1/4" for a reveal between the baseboard and the bottom shelf.  Since we used 1x3 boards on the bottom, that's 2.5" + 1/4". 

The top shelf height is set to allow room for a top face molding, and then crown molding to the ceiling above that.  The height of each frame was a bit less than the ceiling height to allow for moving the frames in.  For our shelves, the top edge of the top shelf was the ceiling height minus the crown molding height minus about an inch reveal to the shelf minus a  1/4" reveal from the face molding to the top shelf.

The shelf above the cabinets needs to be deeper than the melamine so it overhangs the cabinets a bit.  We made it 13.5" deep.  It's  wider than the melamine (11.75" deep) to allow for the plinth block (3/4") + a 1" overhang over the cabinet fronts.

At the top back of the sides, we cutout a notch to allow the existing crown molding to stay in place.  This seemed easier than removing the molding, and since we have an older house, that crown molding is probably nicer than current materials.  Maybe some future owner will tear out these bookcases and thank us for leaving the molding :-)

We used drywall screws to hold the sides to the shelves, and they definitely need to be pre-drilled and counter-sunk since it's going into the edge of plywood and we don't want it to split. 

Each frame is not very strong, but once the cabinets are in place and they are side-by side, the whole system gets a lot stronger.  Attach the top and bottom shelves, but leave the cabinet top off for now - that can be added on top of the cabinets.

Step 3: Cabinets

Once you have the frames in the room, you can set the cabinets on the base.  We set them flush with the front of the frames.  Then we used a few drywall screws from the sides to connect the cabinets to the frames.  Be careful on the placement so the screws don't go into the cabinets.  Once the cabinets are in, the cabinet top shelf can be added, and screwed in.

Placing all the frames against the wall, and use shims to get the cabinet top shelves to line up and look straight.  Once you have them lined up, use a few 1 1/4" drywall screws to connect the frames together on the sides so they don't shift.  Pre-drill and counter-sink these holes too.  We found white plugs to put in the counter-sunk holes.  Wood putty and paint would probably work too - might not match the melamine finish exactly, but you really wouldn't notice once the shelves are in and filled with books.

Step 4: Details

The shelves on top of the cabinets should all be connected together to make the impression of one continuous surface.  They could be cut with notches for the melamine sides, but we just used little blocks to fill in those gaps.  Those were glued and screwed in since they were small, and we use wood putty to fill the gaps and sanded it smooth.  After painting, it looks like one continuous piece.  At the sides we added the plinth blocks at the bottom, the rosettes at the top, and fluted molding on the sides.  Note that these do extend into the shelf space a bit, and this is by convention and design.

The baseboard is 1"x3" pine, and the top face molding is too.  Each is attached with a 1/4" reveal from the bottom and top shelves.    The baseboard does not need to touch the floor (but it can) since we add shoe molding on the face.

We added crown molding to match the existing room molding - some tricky cuts where they meet, but we used the coping method to match that.

On the front edge of the shelf above the cabinets, we added some trim molding - it's 3/4" thick, so matches the front of the shelf.

Step 5: Shelves

The movable shelves are simply made from plywood with a 1"x2" front edge glued and screwed on.  The shelves need to be 3/4" narrower than the sides to allow for the front piece + 1/4" narrower so the shelves are not pressing right against the trim molding on the sides.  So, make the plywood 1" less than the width of the sides.

Comments

[nicalex2]

This is great. I was looking to make something like this for my family room. You said you used 36" cabinets that were 13" deep. I went onto Lowes and Home Depot sites and they only had 12" deep. Did they change how they make them or are there others they aren't showing on their websites?

[zydecohogg]

Thank you for this great idea! I am thinking about installing something similar in my refinished basement. The floor has not yet been installed, so I am trying to decide if I should go ahead and install the bookshelf before or after the floor is installed. By installing the bookshelf first, I i don't have to risk scratching the floor. Any thoughts?

Thanks!

[CarlS]

I guess it depends on whether you consider them to be permanent - if so, then maybe do them first. The floor would then not extend under them. I built mine in an existing room, so I built on an existing floor, and as I mention in the Instructable, I worked the new molding around the existing molding to allow these to be removed some day - not that I ever intend to! :-)

[okinawajoe]

For your half inch front edge here, was this something you picked up as a molding or cabinet edge? Just wondering where I go to look for this ... same areas as the molding, and just ask for 1/2" trim?

[CarlS]

That was just some standard molding from Home Depot.

[nancyellen]

I can't seem to find these premade predrilled 36 inch wide cabinets you are using. Where can I get them?

[CarlS]

I used ones from Home Depot. I am not sure now which ones I got, but i *think* these are the ones, or close to it:

http://www.homedepot.com/Kitchen-Cabinets-Cabinet-Hardware-Assembled-Base-Wall-Cabinets/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbb4s/R-100543343/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053

They are 36" wide wall cabinets.

Hope that helps!

[quelle4]

Carl, love your bookcases, they really make the room more practical, not to mention they really give the space so much character!

Me and my husband recently finished our built in bookcases (pics and info here:

http://www.christonium.com/HomeProject/the-library-built-in-bookcases-around-the-window )

however we used regular pine wood planks which we painted and beadboard for backing. I really like your cabinets at bottom however - so practical to be able to hide things you don't want to be out in the open! Great job!

[CarlS]

Nice work - that is a huge improvement in the room! I worked around the old molding, but I can't say that was important :-) I also had some low outlets which I moved forward to the new bookshelf baseboard molding, so that worked out well in my case.

[makushr1]

Carl - Looks great! I just bought a home that has a perfect space for something like this. I'm a little confused on the base though. I understand that the melamine frames extend from the ceiling to the floor, and that plywood is at the bottom. Is the only thing touching the floor the melamine frames? Also, are the cabinets sitting on the plywood and/or are they fastened to the wall and/or frame? Thanks for posting this, your help will make our 1960s home look like something from this decade!

[CarlS]

Thanks - yes, as I built them,only the Melamine sides touch the floor, so the bottom shelf can be set to just the right height for the baseboard molding (molding height + ~1/4" for a reveal). The cabinets are sitting on the bottom shelf, and I am pretty sure I screwed them to the sides from the inside of the cabinets since the frames were all up when I added the cabinets. I used a couple L brackets for the whole thing to hold the top shelves to the wall just to make sure it did not move.

Someone else suggested building a base like you might do for kitchen cabinets - that would probably be fine too.

I wish I took more pictures - was from pre-Instructables days! :-)

Good luck!

[elicat]

Carsl, I can't wait to start this project. I just have a question:
How do you secure the frames with the back wall? or only with the sides wall will be enough? let me know.

[CarlS]

It's pretty stable, but I did add a couple 2.5" L brackets at the top to make sure. Good luck!

[jwystup]

This is awesome. Now I really want a house (not that I didn't already, just more reasons!!).

[CarlS]

Thanks. I used to feel the same way when I rented, but of course, with a house, you often have more projects than you choose! :-)

[jwystup]

Haha I was just daydreaming on instructables about all of the things I want to do since we bought a house in June! I didn't realize I already commented on this. Hopefully next summer we will be refinishing the basement (paneling is all warped and icky) then I'll be able to do this. The plan is to put it halfway across the long wall with something like this: http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-stylish-sofa-bed/ built into the other half, they'd connect by having the end table part of that one be built into these shelves. Also, we're planning on making one part of the bottom cabinets stick out farther to hide the sump pump. I will definitely post pictures once I finally get to do this!!

[CarlS]

Congratulations and good luck!

[mignolio]

 Looks terrific!  If you don't mind, could you say the manufacturer of the cabinets? I'm seeing some, but none (so far) that don't have a surface that extends over the sides -- which would naturally preclude the flush side-by-side fit.

Thanks!

MIg

[CarlS]

Thanks - I am not sure on the exact brand, but I am pretty sure they are sold as kitchen wall cabinets.  Hope that helps!

[kyfan3344]

Carl,

I love this project and want to do it myself. How high were the kitchen wall cabinets....I am guessing 30".

Andy

[CarlS]

LMK if you are still curious and I can measure them. They are standard wall cabinets.

[Mikel3332]

Love this, was a great inspiration for ours. Completed mine in about 2 weeks of "work after work". but we used all mdf for the uprights and shelving. It is 15 feet long by 9.5 feet tall and my wife loves it.

[discodv]

That looks great! Do you still have the plans for it?

[CarlS]

Thanks. The only plans I have are in the Instructable. Good luck!

[CarlS]

Nice - it's cool to see eerily familiar pictures. :-) The overhead lighting and outset middle are very nice touches!

[pefly737]

Used your idea of a built in bookshelves for our living room. Turned out great. Thanks for the easy idea.

[Dizzy49]

Ok, I've checked Home Depot and Lowes and they have melamine shelves, but not pre-drilled like you have.  Where did you get them?
Did you use a gloss white paint to finish the molding and shelves?

[tango_down]

Scrap section of pegboard will suffice as a hole-drill guide. I checked all the hardware/lowes places and used the pegboard. It will work!

[kewltek]

I found them at Dunn Lumber when I was looking at different supplies to build a special cabinet.

[Soose]

Beautiful job on the built-ins!

FYI. Pre-drilled shelving -- it's stumped me before, knew I'd seen it but later couldn't find it in the HD and Lowe's... here's a hint:

They usually have TWO SECTIONS of melamine shelving and such. The large pre-drilled ones will be in a different section. I'm trying to remember... try the building materials (lumber) sections as well as the shelving/organizing areas, for instance.

Also I've found the pre-drilled shelves and sometimes the 12" vs. 16" deep ones at one store but not at the other. Check both if you can.

Also true for shelf support systems. (The vertical screw-in-the-wall slotted pieces with all the diff size shelf supports that fit in the slots to hold melamine shelving.) At Lowe's there will be the big sections with pricey Closet Maid system and such... but around the corner on a diff aisle will be all the builder's version of the system which are a much better value, heavy duty.

[I know this is a year late for the thread but as others read, perhaps it'll help someone.]

[CarlS]

I got those at Home Depot - will check the next time I am there.  Yes, gloss white paint to match the sides and cabinets.

[CarlS]

I was in Home Depot and saw the pre-drilled melamine.  So, I guess it's local - hope you can find a good substitute.  There are also shelf standards and hole drilling jigs.  I have a jig from Rockler, and it works well, but in pine, there is a certain amount of tear-out.  In melamine coated particle board, though, it may work better - haven't tried it.

[drksidoll]

You can also use a sheet of pegboard (available at Home Depot) as a template to drill even shelving holes down the two sides of the side boards.

[CarlS]

Yup - I have a jig + centering bit from Rockler for that too.  I've had mixed success with tearout on that drill bit (in soft pine), but it's a good alternative.

[Doctroid]

Another option is to just drill the holes you need for the shelf heights you want. I, at least, find that once I've put bookshelves where I want them, I almost never feel the need to change their spacing. But if you do it's only a couple minutes work to whip out a drill and put some new holes in. Why bother drilling a couple hundred holes when you'll probably never use more than a couple dozen of them?

Yet another option is to use pilaster strips (Google 'Knape & Vogt PK255' for instance). I've used these on some bookshelves and they work great. Perhaps a little more visually intrusive than drilled holes but not by much, and a lot less work than drilling that many holes with precise spacing.

[tango_down]

I printed this 'ables over a year ago and finally got things finished in my basement. the 'able is great. Well thought out, well photo'ed and explanations. Thank you so much. I have almost zero woodworking talent and I was able to make a wall length cabinet/bookcase with lighting that looks great.

I used the "odd" space to house a mini fridge and microwave since this whole thing is in my media room. Very cool!!!!

Thanks, big THUMBS UP for you.

[vanisaac]

Instead of wood putty, you can often get a better finish by filling your nail/screw holes with a light weight spackle, judiciously sanded with extra fine sandpaper, and your cracks with caulk, wiping with a wet finger to get a smooth finish. After drying, you can paint them over, and they will disappear even more completely than the puttied surfaces I can see in the pictures.

The trim moulding is also a little mismatched at the corners, but that's almost impossible to get perfect - I used to work for Habitat for Humanity and had to settle for good rather than perfect with those kinds of joints. I don't know if you did this, but when turning a corner with a piece of moulding, it's generally best practice to wood glue the small side piece to the long front, then use masking tape to hold the joint together and let the glue set. Then you can glue/nail them to the larger project and hope you don't split the small piece if you nail them for security - predrilling can help.

Great instructable, though!

[CarlS]

Thanks - good suggestions, and I have used that molding technique on other projects, so I agree that it's a good approach.

[MovieMaker]

If it is all done in RR, could you explain exactly how?

[janettetsmith]

These are beautiful.