Step 4: Decorating

I love to shoot; obviously why I have brass laying around.  So I decided to use the head stamp of a bullet.  I dug through my brass pile until I found a 38 Special with good markings and a silver primer. 

1)  Cut and remove the excess brass.  I used a jar opener to prevent the pliers from digging in.

2)  Grind the backside of the stamp until flush.  This was the most challenging of the process.  If I used pliers to hold the piece on the grinder it dug in and ruined the sides.  I ended up just holding it by hand and going really slow so it didn't heat up.

3)  Solder the piece on the cover.
<p>how do you get your hands on guns and bullets??</p>
Buy them.
But aren't they illegal
cool looks like a kazoo.
Amazing! Your frist 'ible is a whole lot better than mine was. <br> <br>5/5* and voted
First, not frist. :O
Great instructable.
Very nice job :D
good job!<br> <br> I'm surprised that you did not suggest annealing the case before forming over your sizing die. This would be a good idea if the brass had been reloaded several times or otherwise work-hardened.<br> <br> To do so, you would simply heat the brass up with a torch and allow to cool or optionally you can &quot;quench&quot; it in water. It's the heat that does the annealing, not the quench so that part is optional.<br> <br> I think you will find that an annealed case will form to the shape of the USB drive much easier.
That is a great idea! I knew metals got harder under stress but I never looked up the properties of brass. That would make molding and preparing the ends for soldering much easier.
if you were to actually reload the brass case (so it would be ready to shoot again) you would not want to allow the base to be heat softened, just the neck and upper portions.. <br><br>In your case, this is not the case. The heat can slightly discolor the brass, but I think it is just an oxide layer that can be polished off.
I repackaged a USB drive for a present for my wife this Christmas. When I opened up the original case, I found it the board was held in place with what appeared to be silicone, which seems like the perfect material for this purpose. <br> <br>However, many varieties of Silicon (i.e., RTV) give off acetic acid (vinegar) when curing, which could cause corrosion long term. There are some types, variously named electronics grade or non-corrosive, which do not give off acetic acid. It's a bit more expensive than what you can find down at the hardware store, but there's no worry about getting the adhesive on the components. Just glob it on and stick the board in place!
Now I know what to make for the hubby. I think we've got a spare 50 calibre casing around somewhere that would be awesome. Great project!<br>
<a href="http://wp-tema.org.ua/wysi.html" rel="nofollow">Good job,TNX</a>
FIRST!!! hahaha...now that i got that out of my system...<br><br>refering to the third step where there is nothing to hold the drive in, i know of a fix for that...SUGRU!!!!! lol you might also try J.B. Weld, but i think that has metal properties to it, and might be detramental to your project... but...i would try sugru. Cool project, and thanks for sharing!!!

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Bio: I love understanding how things work. I also take a lot of pride in creating things the lay person wouldn't recognize as homemade. I ... More »
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