Print PDF
Favorite
Email
Hello,
On this Ipod (Nano, 4GB, 3rd generation) the "play" button on the clickwheel stopped working. I used a knife, and separated the case halves (I don't know anything about Ipods. There is a plastic tool available for them that takes the case halves apart)
I ended up cracking the screen with the knife.
So, I order up a new screen and clickwheel, and when they arrive, the website URL tells me to move the connector locking mechanism UP.
I, however, do not READ the directions, and go by the so-so pictures, and decide I had better use a knife to push it IN.
Well....
That didn't work.
I effectively destroyed the locking mechanism, bent a bunch of pins, and completely dislocated one of the pins.
These pins are about as thick as a whisker in a beard (In other words, not easily repairable).
You may be thinking it is too hard for you, but if you take your time, and do it right, you can succeed. This works for motherboards, anything electrical. It's better than scrapping an expensive Ipod, or purchasing the $100 motherboard. Technically, this did not cost me but a fraction of a penny in solder, and my time.
On this Ipod (Nano, 4GB, 3rd generation) the "play" button on the clickwheel stopped working. I used a knife, and separated the case halves (I don't know anything about Ipods. There is a plastic tool available for them that takes the case halves apart)
I ended up cracking the screen with the knife.
So, I order up a new screen and clickwheel, and when they arrive, the website URL tells me to move the connector locking mechanism UP.
I, however, do not READ the directions, and go by the so-so pictures, and decide I had better use a knife to push it IN.
Well....
That didn't work.
I effectively destroyed the locking mechanism, bent a bunch of pins, and completely dislocated one of the pins.
These pins are about as thick as a whisker in a beard (In other words, not easily repairable).
You may be thinking it is too hard for you, but if you take your time, and do it right, you can succeed. This works for motherboards, anything electrical. It's better than scrapping an expensive Ipod, or purchasing the $100 motherboard. Technically, this did not cost me but a fraction of a penny in solder, and my time.
Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1Cleaning up the area, assessing damage
I used a needle to clean out the plastic debris.
Be careful, friends, when using ANY METAL near the motherboard! You do not want to accidentally short the battery to a sensitive semiconductor!
You absolutely need a GOOD pair of tweezers to do this!
Because one of the pins had broken off, I tried, with no success, to re-solder it back on. It was simply too difficult to do.
I took a strand of wire (I apologize, I do not know what gauge it is) out of the wiring harness for my Subaru BRAT, cut it to length, dipped it in some soldering flux, and tinned it.
I apologize again, I did not take pictures of this step, or many of the steps I did, because I honestly wasn't sure if it would work.
But I will try and explain it.
Having the wire in the tweezers, coat the entire wire strand in soldering flux (I used tinning flux from Lowe's). Then, using a heated-up soldering iron (I used a Weller soldering gun, dual heat range, but a pencil iron is just fine!) with some solder on the tip, and simply TOUCH the hot soldering iron tip to the wire.
Some smoke may appear as the flux burns away, and cleans the wire, and you will notice that the wire is now silver in color, (The color of the solder) and no longer gold (The color of the copper wire).
In this picture, you can sort of see the wire I used. I had to bend it, because if it was a straight connection, I would not have been able to maneuver it about like I did, however, in bending it, it became very difficult to solder.
The red stuff you see is silicone that I used to form a mechanical barrier against vibration, beings that each end of the wire is held in place with a few pico-ounces of solder.
Bear with me..
Be careful, friends, when using ANY METAL near the motherboard! You do not want to accidentally short the battery to a sensitive semiconductor!
You absolutely need a GOOD pair of tweezers to do this!
Because one of the pins had broken off, I tried, with no success, to re-solder it back on. It was simply too difficult to do.
I took a strand of wire (I apologize, I do not know what gauge it is) out of the wiring harness for my Subaru BRAT, cut it to length, dipped it in some soldering flux, and tinned it.
I apologize again, I did not take pictures of this step, or many of the steps I did, because I honestly wasn't sure if it would work.
But I will try and explain it.
Having the wire in the tweezers, coat the entire wire strand in soldering flux (I used tinning flux from Lowe's). Then, using a heated-up soldering iron (I used a Weller soldering gun, dual heat range, but a pencil iron is just fine!) with some solder on the tip, and simply TOUCH the hot soldering iron tip to the wire.
Some smoke may appear as the flux burns away, and cleans the wire, and you will notice that the wire is now silver in color, (The color of the solder) and no longer gold (The color of the copper wire).
In this picture, you can sort of see the wire I used. I had to bend it, because if it was a straight connection, I would not have been able to maneuver it about like I did, however, in bending it, it became very difficult to solder.
The red stuff you see is silicone that I used to form a mechanical barrier against vibration, beings that each end of the wire is held in place with a few pico-ounces of solder.
Bear with me..
| « Previous Step | Download PDFView All Steps | Next Step » |
 |
Add Comment
|
