(The content in this Instructable first appeared in my new blog at http://biodieselhauling.blogspot.com/
To my 40 Instructables subscribers, and anyone who stumbles across this and likes it, be sure to take a look, as much of what I write isn't quite right for an Instructable.)
Bikes are perhaps the greatest human invention of all time.
They get you from where you are to where you want to between 2 and 5 times as fast as you could walk there, but they use absolutely no fossil fuel or external energy what-so-ever, which means they have basically no environmental impact and no operating costs beyond the original manufacture and purchase.
However, if you are not already a "bike person", the amount of choices in type and brand and size and accessories can be overwhelming. If you buy new from a local bike shop, the salesperson will most likely walk you through the process of deciding what will fit your needs, but if you want to save money (and further reduce your eco-footprint) you should really buy everything you possible can used.
So, for the beginners who know just about nothing about bikes but want to get one from Craigslist, or perhaps a thriftstore or yardsale, I'm going to break down for you exactly what to look for and what to avoid.
To my 40 Instructables subscribers, and anyone who stumbles across this and likes it, be sure to take a look, as much of what I write isn't quite right for an Instructable.)
Bikes are perhaps the greatest human invention of all time.
They get you from where you are to where you want to between 2 and 5 times as fast as you could walk there, but they use absolutely no fossil fuel or external energy what-so-ever, which means they have basically no environmental impact and no operating costs beyond the original manufacture and purchase.
However, if you are not already a "bike person", the amount of choices in type and brand and size and accessories can be overwhelming. If you buy new from a local bike shop, the salesperson will most likely walk you through the process of deciding what will fit your needs, but if you want to save money (and further reduce your eco-footprint) you should really buy everything you possible can used.
So, for the beginners who know just about nothing about bikes but want to get one from Craigslist, or perhaps a thriftstore or yardsale, I'm going to break down for you exactly what to look for and what to avoid.
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Signing UpStep 1: About me
First, for anyone who doesn't know me personally, my credentials on the subject:
I began riding regularly for fun and transportation in 1992, when I was 12. The next year I began riding to school every day, so that I could keep the bus money for other things. In high school, in addition to daily commuting (to school and internship) and weekend rides of 40-100 miles, I began annual 4 day trips down the CA coast with a group of teachers and friends. After college I went with the couple that had organized those annual rides from San Francisco to Puerto Vallarta Mexico, and went solo from there along the coast to Acapulco and then North to Mexico city (over an 8000ft pass) for a total of 2800 miles over 2 months. When I returned, I took a job as a bicycle messenger. I eventually ended up also working as a messenger in New York City.
In 20 years of serious riding, I have had a bmx bike, a steel touring bike, a British internal-hub drop-frame from the late 60s, a carbon fiber racing bike, an aluminum mountain bike, and two folding bikes, all of which together I paid a grand total of $450 for (of which $400 was the carbon fiber road bike).
Eventually I returned to CA where, for the past 5 years, my primary job has been as a hauler (mover, and handyman) which involves picking stuff up that people don't want anymore, and then finding new owners for those things. This involves either selling or giving away anything which is still useable (which is most of what I pick up), frequently on Craigslist.
My second job for the past 5 years has been as a mechanic in a tiny bike-shop of sorts, the Bike Station, whose primary service is FREE secure valet attended bicycle parking, but also offers relatively low-cost repairs. Because we don't sell new bikes, and because we never turn anyone away for lack of bike quality, I have been able to work on a great variety of bikes, of all types and ages and cost levels, which is rare in any one shop.
(My third job is a reserve for the Coast Guard, but that isn't relevant to this at all)
And now... on to the content!
I began riding regularly for fun and transportation in 1992, when I was 12. The next year I began riding to school every day, so that I could keep the bus money for other things. In high school, in addition to daily commuting (to school and internship) and weekend rides of 40-100 miles, I began annual 4 day trips down the CA coast with a group of teachers and friends. After college I went with the couple that had organized those annual rides from San Francisco to Puerto Vallarta Mexico, and went solo from there along the coast to Acapulco and then North to Mexico city (over an 8000ft pass) for a total of 2800 miles over 2 months. When I returned, I took a job as a bicycle messenger. I eventually ended up also working as a messenger in New York City.
In 20 years of serious riding, I have had a bmx bike, a steel touring bike, a British internal-hub drop-frame from the late 60s, a carbon fiber racing bike, an aluminum mountain bike, and two folding bikes, all of which together I paid a grand total of $450 for (of which $400 was the carbon fiber road bike).
Eventually I returned to CA where, for the past 5 years, my primary job has been as a hauler (mover, and handyman) which involves picking stuff up that people don't want anymore, and then finding new owners for those things. This involves either selling or giving away anything which is still useable (which is most of what I pick up), frequently on Craigslist.
My second job for the past 5 years has been as a mechanic in a tiny bike-shop of sorts, the Bike Station, whose primary service is FREE secure valet attended bicycle parking, but also offers relatively low-cost repairs. Because we don't sell new bikes, and because we never turn anyone away for lack of bike quality, I have been able to work on a great variety of bikes, of all types and ages and cost levels, which is rare in any one shop.
(My third job is a reserve for the Coast Guard, but that isn't relevant to this at all)
And now... on to the content!
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One small item: in step 5, paragraph 7 or so, should "...and are (in theory**) less prone to flats." read "...more prone to flats?"
Your footnote seems to suggest that.
Thanks!
It has been fixed
I worked in retail where they sold these bikes of today and delt with some of the returns.
Your far better to find a good frame and put the parts on it, of the quality your willing to pay for. The worst part of todays bike is, they have kids put them together, lucky if they can tie their own shoes. Its realy sad ( recycle a Bicycle )
Its just an example, to show what a triple chainring looks like.
Trek 2120, one of the earliest carbon bikes - carbon main tubes, joined with aluminum lugs, and with aluminum stays and fork. I replaced the wheels with spinergys, the shifters with 105 STI, otherwise mostly left it stock.
Not race worthy by modern standards, but under 20lbs with water bottle and tools.
It got stolen last year by friends of my neighbor while I was on the East Coast for US Coast Guard training. It was locked to my touring bike (1970s Univega Gran Turismo) inside my locked shed, so they cut the steel frame to get to it.
I miss that bike :(
I recommend always using a U-lock, and always locking both wheels.
But in my case, I was gone for 3 months, and everyone in the neighborhood knew it. The thieves took their time, and cleared out my tool shed and bike shed.
I don't live their anymore.
As it happened, a big city bus was starting up right behind me. Exciting few seconds there when the handlebars went all floppy and I hobbled over to the curb. The bus was kind enough not to run me over.
Took the bike back to the shop and he gave me a whole new front end. But I decided maybe I should get a real bike for my commute. I did and love it. Rides like a dream.
What are their pros and cons?
I could just see myself looking down at a digital readout, "Oh wow, I'm going over 40 CRASH!" Was that miles per hour or kilometers? I'll ask the nurse if I wake up. I decided I was better off not knowing.
The point: in some situations (such as mine, daily) the distraction could be dangerous.
What are their pros and cons?
What is the propose of having one?
long distance, speed check, timer, ect.
I just got it, so when I get the money I am going to put some slightly more road based tire on it.
Pros - its fun to know how fast you are going and how far you went. It can be useful if you are training for a sports event, or if you are doing long-distance touring.
Cons - no real cons, but they don't offer much of practical value to the casual commuter.
I have one on one bike, not on the other 3.
If you want a jumping bike i recommend the specialized P1 or P2. Very good bikes. My P1 has not broken yet except for flat tires! GT is also a good brand!
I would have written a very different article were it geared for touring. I know about that too, and what I wrote here wouldn't be a good guide for it.
Used department store bikes have brakes that have MUCH less than maximum, optimal stopping power, which makes them unsafe. Imagine buying a 1/2 truck built in Eastern Europe in 1926 and driving it on an LA freeway- no air bags, no seatbelts, no power brakes... you wouldn't say "oh, its just fine for casual drivers"
Not to mention it will break down sooner, be more expensive to fix, and therefor end up costing more than a real bike would have overall.
I worked in a community bike shop. I saw it again and again and again.
"I'm sorry, your 3 week old bike is going to need a $150 repair"
"but that's almost as much as I paid for it!"
"I would recommend buying from a bikeshop or craigslist next time"
I wrote this hoping to be able to tel people this BEFORE they make the mistake of buying one of those rolling deathtrap pieces of "how cheaply can I possibly make a bike in china in order to maximize profit margin" crap.
Cost of repairs, I suppose that if you take your bike to a shop it will cost you a small fortune, most of which will be shop/labor charges so for people who can't or won't do their own repairs this could be a real consideration but really how hard is it to replace the bearings in a headstock? And if you get the bearings from a bike you broke the pedal crank on and kept for parts the cost is only a little more time. If you rescued the bikes from the curb then your total cost would be... 0.00?
I have a young friend who does trial? competitions, his bike cost something outrageous like $5,000.00 ! He can ride it off a house roof with no problem or climb in the back of my truck without touching the ground but when it does break it costs! The bike he puts 200+ miles a week on around town started out as a walmart special.
Perhaps commuting in a more urban setting like NYC or Chicago would be different, although Jacksonville Florida is considered a city its more like a bunch of small towns connected together with a small urban center. So we may be discussing apples and oranges in several ways but just like I will never be convinced that buying a $30,000.00 truck is more economical than my $500 25yo truck that gets 30mpg (20 churning thru the mud) I don't think I could ever be convinced that buying an $800 dollar bike makes more sense than my $50 beach cruiser
Do you know the year?//
Large fine ball bearing pedals alum with tiny nubs sticking up. This bike is like new except for rotten tires. Also the loose wheel bearings are rusted some . I will try to lap them smooth again and dead true with laping compound. Has anyone done this???
I ordered the 2.75 or 2.95 for the rear Max 75# pressure and it is really FAT. (carefull you must get the super large tube dont trust a 2.5 tube, its 25% too small. I have a 2.25 for the front. I learned long ago fat hi-volume tires really smooth out the ride and last much longer. Used on my too 29" it now rides like a Cad and will pass a rice rocket, on the hi speed turns easily.
I dont need a stiff, heavy, rough ride sprung front end, with a Alunimum super-stiff,frame. I just dumped this bike... Iam using a sprung seat too.
I guess it probably varies with where you live. I have never seen anything but 20 year old walmart style bikes at the thrift stores around here.
If your reason for riding is to "get there" as quickly as possible, or if your ego is hurt when other riders pass you, then by all means go buy an expensive road bike. But if you are like me and ride for the enjoyment and exercise, a department store bike is fine.
Just my $0.02 worth.