Introduction: C-Clamp IPhone Stand
I made a tiny C-Clamp for fun and realized that it works really well as a phone stand so here are the instructions on how to make one yourself. So you are aware, this instructable requires some basic jig making and needs some tools that everyone may not have. I will try to find work arounds as we go using easier to access tools, but may not be able to for some steps.
Step 1: Tools & Supplies
Here is a list of the materials you will need
- Wood turning blank. must be at LEAST 4" x 1/2" x 1/2" (you can find pen turning blanks on ebay that work well)
1/8" Brass machine screw. (x2 because there is a good chance one will mess one up) any hardware store should carry these and the brass tube.
- 1/16" brass tube or rod.
- Scrap wood. (for making a jig)
- Masking Tape
- Pen or Pencil
- Straight Edge/Speed Square
- Drill bits size 1/16" & 1/8"
- Tapping bit to match threads on machine screw
- Tapping bit chuck (optional but recommended)
- Hand drill or Drill press
- Small hand saw/hack saw/band saw
- Sand paper or Needle files
- Small vice or clamp
- Wood Glue
Step 2: Measure Measure Measure
If you purchased a turning blank chances are the block is already relatively squared off.
Begin by measuring off a 4" x 1/2" x 1/2" piece in the block of wood.
After marking the square on top of the wood make an X connecting the opposite corners to find the center.
Step 3: Drill Top Hole.
THIS HOLE SHOULD BE OFFSET FROM CENTER OF X.
Think about the final product; The hole should be in line with the center point of the x drawn in the previous step, but should be close to the edge that will be used as the opening of the C. Keep in mind the head of the screw is larger then the width of the threaded rod.
I used a hand drill with a dot level on the back of it to drill a squared hole, but a drill press would work 100x better.
Step 4: Time to Cut the Clamp.
You should already have the .5" x .5" marked down the sides from the previous step.
Inside those lines, measure and draw the lines in the first image. These will create both parts of the c-clam as shown in the 4th image.
I used a bandsaw to cut these out but a small hack saw or coping saw would work as well.
The blade should be kept on the outside of the part to account for blade thickness when possible, when cutting the line that will separate the two pieces its alright to cut along the line. (you will need to sand down the surfaces so they fit later).
Step 5: Tapping the Hole.
Use the tapping bit that fits the 18th" hole and create the inner threads. This will keep the wood from splitting when putting the screw in. I clamped the top piece in a small vice with the grain to further ensure the wood wouldn't split.
Step 6: Getting Jiggy With It.
First, drill an 1/8" hole into a piece of scrap wood that is as close to square as you can find. This will become the hole for the brass screw.
Next, thread the hole with the tapping bit and insert the screw to any distance. Tape off the screw.
Using the taped off section, mark the length of the untaped section directly in line with the hole in the scrap wood. This line will be used to create the cross hole.
At about 1/16" from the edge of the screw distance, place a second mark (image three, the arrow) to denote the location to pre drill the cross hole.
MAKE SURE YOU ARE USING A METAL DRILL BIT. I broke a crappy bit the first time I tried this.
Put the screw into the jig up to the taped edge, and drill a small hole (The diameter of the brass rod or tube you purchased) into the screw.
Step 7: A Few Last Steps.
The hole drilled in the screw is for the brass rod, BUT before putting the rod through the screw... you need to thread the screw through the top hole drilled into the top piece of the c-clamp.
NOW cut off a small section of the brass tube or rod and put it through the hole. I used a clamp to flatted the two sides so it couldn't be removed.
Next, using a needle file sand down the connecting surfaces so that they meet flush with each other (a belt or disk sander can be used after everything is glued together to really finish the outer surfaces if desired but a small file works best for these smaller surfaces).
Step 8: Protecting Your Phone!
The image is after i glued the parts together, but before you do.. take some Plastidip and coat the head of the screw. Give it plenty of time to dry.
This will keep your phone from getting scratched by the screw.
Step 9: Wood Glue and Finishing the Bottom
Glue the pieces together.
I cut the overall length down to about 3.25" and finished the bottom with a simple flat edge on the back side. If you sand or cut it steep enough, you can drill an additional hole and add a keychain.