This is a drip coffee stand I made using a Shopbot CNC Router.

It was made specifically for a Hario V60 Ceramic Dripper, but should be easily customizable for any other dripper. The overall form is very a simple twist (literally) on other drip stands like this one, but I specifically wanted to meet three additional objectives:

1. Easy to clean
2. Use only natural materials (no MDF or plastic)
3. Hide the CNC-made aspect

To these ends, the stand is made of wood (walnut) and lined with cork in a couple of places to absorb unwanted dripping. To add some much-needed but optional contrast, an aluminum disk is added to the base on top of the cork lining. The legs face opposite directions, but either leg can be mirrored to make a more traditional design.

Please see the attached zip file for DXF vector files as well as VCarve CAM files embedded with the toolpaths I used for cutting out the various shapes.

Supplementary files like my Rhino mockups in 3D and Grasshopper files have been posted to Github.

Step 1: Tools and Materials

The specifics are largely up to the style you'd like to achieve, but here's what I used to make mine:

0. CNC Router - Could probably be done with a laser cutter and most definitely with manual tools, but those are outside my area of expertise. Bits I used were: 1/4" downcut bit for wood and cork, and 1/4" straight bit for aluminum. Feel free to substitute for what you have on hand.
1. Thin wood - Walnut, 1/2" thickness, at least 26x6" but larger is better. The bulk of the structure is made with this. I chose walnut because I love the color and, less romantically, because it matches coffee stains. Purchased for about $5-10 a plank on eBay.
2. Something absorbent - Cork sheet, 1/4" thickness, also purchased way more than I need on eBay for about $10.
3. Glue - Titebond or any other wood glue should work A-ok.
4. Sandpaper - I only used 150 and 220, but you may have a better technique. Random orbital sander could be used for planks before routing.
5. Wood finish - AFM Naturals Oil Wax, used for both the wood and bamboo because it's natural, food-safe, and imbues water resistance. Can be substituted with any other oil or wax finish, or even something non-natural. Sponge, rag, or brush for applying this.
6. (optional) Router table with roundover bit - I used a 3/8" roundover bit for taking away sharp edges from most of the sides.
7. (optional) 6061Aluminum, .040" thickness, at least 5x5". This is perforated and cut into a circle to act as a "landing pad" of sorts over the cork absorber. It is optional because it scratches easily and probably only exists for its good looks. Purchased from onlinemetals.com at $5 for 12x12".
8. (optional) Flapper wheel. This is basically a bunch of small sandpaper pieces attached to a shank that you put in a drill press or the like. It gives you a quick and dirty way of smoothing over rough cuts, but I also used it to deburr the aluminum and give it a brushed look.
9. (optional) Laser cutter or scissors. This would make quick work of the cork. So could a sharp, strong pair of scissors.

Cost, moolah, cash money - The bottom line cost is a little hard to calculate, since most of the materials, consumables, and tools will hopefully last through many more projects. However, I'd say a minimum of ~$25 is needed for just enough wood ($10), aluminum ($5), and cork ($10) to complete the project. In reality, though, I went through a few rounds of prototypes and tests in MDF first, and a couple of screwups in walnut itself.
Very well thought out, very functional and extremely stylish. What I appreciate most about this is the different character and uniqueness this has compared to other "plain" drip coffee stands.
If you had access to a laser cutter, you could have probably used that to cut the cork much more easily.
Great point - I've added some notes on that.
That is the most elegant coffee dripper I've ever seen! Thank you for all of the details and photos.
I made a similar one out of 1/2" solid surface (corian)
What aspect of this project was facilitated by using CNC? I'm not seeing anything in it that couldn't have been easily done with regular tools.
Thanks, I do make mention of that in the materials/tools section and I will take your word that it can be done easily. I admire people like you who have the skills (and tools) to do this with the speed and precision of a CNC, but I'm not there yet. I'm barely a beginner when it comes to tools like the band saw, and this was only my first time using the table router to round anything over, so I'm slowly working my way up the tools ladder! <br> <br>The Shopbot allows me, with my lack of skill using manual tools, to quickly prototype and iterate on designs. It is my hammer for now, but don't worry, it won't become my crutch :)
Don't sell yourself so short. You picked out an excellent choice of what tool to use to make this. A bandsaw would have made quick work of this project. Choosing your method is half of the battle. Scrollsawing is pretty easy too. I've made plenty of stuff where I've printed a design out with a computer, glued that to wood, then cut it out.<br> <br> I made this on a scroll saw:<br> <br> <a href="http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/6094/f021004.jpg" rel="nofollow">http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/6094/f021004.jpg</a><br> <br> I suppose a laser cutter could to it too but it'd burn the edges.
that is an amazing piece of hardware you have there. How long did it take to make a single stand?
Thanks very much :) It took about an hour to cut out all the final pieces given that I screwed up a few times and had trouble holding down both the wood and the cork. The sanding and finishing took about 45mins more after that, but most of that time was spent waiting for the oil to be absorbed.
Its a beautiful piece, very nice!

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