It was made specifically for a Hario V60 Ceramic Dripper, but should be easily customizable for any other dripper. The overall form is very a simple twist (literally) on other drip stands like this one, but I specifically wanted to meet three additional objectives:
1. Easy to clean
2. Use only natural materials (no MDF or plastic)
3. Hide the CNC-made aspect
To these ends, the stand is made of wood (walnut) and lined with cork in a couple of places to absorb unwanted dripping. To add some much-needed but optional contrast, an aluminum disk is added to the base on top of the cork lining. The legs face opposite directions, but either leg can be mirrored to make a more traditional design.
Please see the attached zip file for DXF vector files as well as VCarve CAM files embedded with the toolpaths I used for cutting out the various shapes.
Supplementary files like my Rhino mockups in 3D and Grasshopper files have been posted to Github.
Step 1: Tools and Materials
0. CNC Router - Could probably be done with a laser cutter and most definitely with manual tools, but those are outside my area of expertise. Bits I used were: 1/4" downcut bit for wood and cork, and 1/4" straight bit for aluminum. Feel free to substitute for what you have on hand.
1. Thin wood - Walnut, 1/2" thickness, at least 26x6" but larger is better. The bulk of the structure is made with this. I chose walnut because I love the color and, less romantically, because it matches coffee stains. Purchased for about $5-10 a plank on eBay.
2. Something absorbent - Cork sheet, 1/4" thickness, also purchased way more than I need on eBay for about $10.
3. Glue - Titebond or any other wood glue should work A-ok.
4. Sandpaper - I only used 150 and 220, but you may have a better technique. Random orbital sander could be used for planks before routing.
5. Wood finish - AFM Naturals Oil Wax, used for both the wood and bamboo because it's natural, food-safe, and imbues water resistance. Can be substituted with any other oil or wax finish, or even something non-natural. Sponge, rag, or brush for applying this.
6. (optional) Router table with roundover bit - I used a 3/8" roundover bit for taking away sharp edges from most of the sides.
7. (optional) 6061 Aluminum, .040" thickness, at least 5x5". This is perforated and cut into a circle to act as a "landing pad" of sorts over the cork absorber. It is optional because it scratches easily and probably only exists for its good looks. Purchased from onlinemetals.com at $5 for 12x12".
8. (optional) Flapper wheel. This is basically a bunch of small sandpaper pieces attached to a shank that you put in a drill press or the like. It gives you a quick and dirty way of smoothing over rough cuts, but I also used it to deburr the aluminum and give it a brushed look.
9. (optional) Laser cutter or scissors. This would make quick work of the cork. So could a sharp, strong pair of scissors.
Cost, moolah, cash money - The bottom line cost is a little hard to calculate, since most of the materials, consumables, and tools will hopefully last through many more projects. However, I'd say a minimum of ~$25 is needed for just enough wood ($10), aluminum ($5), and cork ($10) to complete the project. In reality, though, I went through a few rounds of prototypes and tests in MDF first, and a couple of screwups in walnut itself.