Step 3: Scan Original Blueprints

I was given the sheet of blueprints (actually white zeroxed copies) to work from.  I taped the relevant portions together and traced the image to be cut on white butcher paper. Then took it to a local architectural copy shop (FedX-Kinkos would do) and had them make a digital file. They also sized it a bit to match the dimension given on the plans. I was enlarged 1.6%.
I suggest that a comparative load test should be done between that CNC-ed rib and ordinarry build up rib from spruce sticks. Ordinary rib will be superior as grain orientation and strength of the spruce (or douglas fir..) is way higher than of the plywood. The backdraw of the plywood is also the grain orientation, and it can not be used to its best strenght. <br>Pure plywood ribs should be designed for that lower strength of the material. Caps and diagonals should be much wider. And this will resulted in heaviest ribs, than odf classic design. <br> <br>Othervise it is clever idea to simplify ribs manufacturing and to speed up the process. The newest design from team AeroMax use many CNC done wooden plywood parts in the aeroplane structure.
I see the concern but ribs on most airplanes are not heavily loaded and even aerobatic airplanes are using routed ribs now. <br> <br>I've noticed that many times we get buried in conventional thinking that is based on a theory nobody fully understands in aviation. Many theories are just rumors even. Sometimes it's better to just see if you can get something to work since everything is a great compromise in design anyway. Most great advances come from trying something new.
What airplane is it for? I've done some ribs for people too. Kitfoxes have routed wood ribs but the factory does them by hand. Sad huh? haha.
I would like to know more about how you faired the rib profile before you created the &quot;G&quot; code. I have never been able to make a rib that I could use right off the CNC table without doing a lot of hand work to get the profile fair. By that time I have lost the exact shape and the rib is worthless. <br> <br>I hope you can help me. I have two Marske Flying wings that I want to build. 70% of the work is in making the ribs and making them to the correct size. <br> <br>Thanks. <br> <br>Wally <br> <br>
I'm building a flying wing right now too. I use Rhino 3D which has a feature in the view menu to place a background bitmap, jpeg also works. I then use the control point curve to trace the outline and then scale it to the right size in the &quot;transform 2D&quot; function. <br> <br>I've owned a shopbot for 15 years and after you have the machine it's all about the CAD skills isn't it :) Have fun, I'll post my project &quot;floater wing&quot; soon.
Just a CNC tip - We often for complicated cuts used to print out the drawing - full sized - and the lightly tack glue to the material. that way we could see a) that the material is big enough - b) where to put the hold down clamps that is going to be out of the way.<br><br>We always used a piece of sacrificial MDF under the material so we could cut all the way through. this also allowed us to pin the material - usually wood - down with panel pins. Much better than double sided tape and easier than various clamping systems.
I'd be curious to run a stress test to failure on this and a traditional built-up rib. In standard rib building (as I understand it) the wood grain runs parallel to each member, whereas with plywood the grain is going every which way. Then again, plywood would have increased strength in other directions, and wouldn't have failure-prone joints. Have you looked into this?<br><br>Please don't take this as a disparaging comment, it's a great use for a CNC router, especially if it gets another airplane in the air. Well done!
Having dealt with wooden wing ribs I can see where this will save the builder lots of time and money. Good job.

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