I'd like to copy dozens of pages in one session, but there are 2 limiting factors, (1) positioning the pages, (2) the necessity to reach back to trigger the camera, which might blur the image or even misalign the camera.
This instructable offers a solution for (2), by a method which, as far as I know, has never been proposed on the internet.
Unlike the analog SLR and rangefinder 35mm cameras of yore, most modern digital cameras provide no way to attach a standard cable release (see extreme closeup below of the SP-350's shutter button and of a standard 35mm film camera's shutter button), and there are few such cameras for which there are commercially available remote or cable shutter releases.
This instructable uses epoxy putty to create a custom mount, molded to the shape of the camera, which provides a base to connect a standard cable release to the camera & allows it to trigger the shutter.
Outside of a patch of velcro glued to the front of the camera body, the camera is not modified at all.
The epoxy base is held to the camera with Velcro strapping, and the cable release is glued permanently into the base. Release of the Velcro straps allows the base to be removed from the camera. I only wish it were more attractive looking.
Step 1: Materials Needed - Epoxy Putty
Step 2: Materials Needed - Disposable Gloves
Besides being allergenic, the putty is sticky. Plastic gloves are the best way of handling this material before it cures and will help keep you from ultimately developing an allergic reaction to it. I've used this material for years & would rather not develop health problems from it. Your fingers need to be very agile in the molding of this device and the implantation of the cable release.
Step 3: Materials Needed - Plastic Wrap
Later on, as the epoxy cures, you can easily remove the molded material and pull the plastic wrap off the epoxy.
Step 4: Materials Needed - Shutter Release Cable
Step 5: Materials Needed - Velcro Strips and Patch
One size is cut in strips 8" long by 1/2" wide, with one end flared wider with a slot that accepts the other end, and designed to wrap up cables and wires. It is available at office supply stores, among other places. The packaging was marked "Velcro brand straps: Reusable Ties" and comes in a pack of 50 for $4.99, Part 20822371 at OfficeMax, for example. Two of these pieces are used, to snug the mold against the camera body and provide counterpressure to resist the tendency of the cable to push itself away from the shutter button.
After completing this project, you can use the other 48 reusable ties to secure the lines of some of your wall warts, USB cables, AC power lines, earphone cables, extension cords, antenna coax, etc., etc., etc. I buy 1-2 of these packs per year.
The other piece of velcro is usually labeled Velcro Sticky-Back tape, 3/4" wide by 2 inches long. This adheres to the right front of the camera below the shutter button, and provides one surface to hold the other two velcro strips in place. This is the one bit that remains on the camera when the cable release portion is not in use.
Step 6: Prepping the Epoxy
Insure you will not be interrupted for the next 5 minutes.
Don disposable gloves.
Remove the epoxy plug from its holder.
Remove the aluminum on the end.
Cut off about an inch of the putty from the roll. Roll the material back & forth under the knife edge as the edge is pressed down toward the center of the roll.
Before doing anything else with the epoxy that was cut off, put the aluminum cap on the end you are saving, the roll back in its holder & the plastic cap back on the holder.
Remove & discard the plastic covering over the epoxy cutoff. Then quickly knead the epoxy, like bread dough, until the color is uniform. Remember you have just 5 minutes before it hardens. The color will go from swirls of blue & white to a uniform white, and the material will warm up slightly.
Step 7: Molding Putty Over Shutter Button Covered in Plastic
Be careful to not apply putty so that it will interfere with the rotation of the Mode Dial later, or with the microphone grill in the front, or with the Multi-connector cover on the right side. Do not taper the edges too thin, else they will break off when putty hardens. The hardened epoxy is like hard plastic, not like metal.
If you screw this up too badly, remember the unused portion of the putty. You can do this again until you get it right.
You must work fairly quickly before the epoxy hardens. When the mold has a proper shape, it must still be soft enough for the cable end to be pushed into it. The portion of the mold directly over the shutter button must be mounded up to support the end of the cable.
Step 8: Pushing Cable End Into Mold
When you believe you have pushed the cable down near the top of the shutter button, push the other end of the cable release up & down to create a passageway within the epoxy that will be free & clear when it hardens, but brace the mold & cable structure with your other hand. If you don't brace it properly, the cable end will simply back up out of the mold as the cable's button is pressed.
Now simply hold everything in position as the putty hardens. You can feel the increasing hardness of the material as you hold the assembly. Within 5 minutes it should be firm enough to pull it away from the camera, taking the plastic wrap with it.
Step 9: Pulling Mold Off Camera With Plastic Wrapping.
Step 10: Applying Velcro Straps
Put the other end of the cable release through the open end of one strap, and run it down the cable to the mold itself. Pushing the cable fully in helps get the Velcro's oblong hole over the end of the cable.
Do the same with the other strap, be careful that the straps present the same surface (either hook surface or eye surface) to the camera, so that the straps will adhere to each other when tightened.
I put a small machine bolt into the mold and a cable tie on the camera's right strap anchor in case I needed additional velcro supports, but these turned out to be unnecessary. Ignore them.
Adjust the straps as shown. Don't pull them so snug as to jam the Mode Dial.