The employees here are very very spoiled. One day I came in and they had a DJ spinning tunes, they have fooseball tables, slushee machine, snack bar and gourmet coffee and espresso. Spoiled I say. Maybe my boss could take notes here!
Step 1: Make a Cut List and Rip Up the Parts Needed for Assembly.
The box height is only 12-1/2", add on 6" of firm padding and you have an excellent height for a booth seat.
The box parts are 3/4" plywood laminated with an identical part to make them 1-1/2" thick. All of the box parts are made this way except the sides, those are just single layers of 3/4" ply. I do not have a lot of pictures cutting up the plywood, just piles of cut parts. I used a track saw and a table saw for this task.
Step 2: Assemble the Seat Boxes and the Seating Panels
I started with the fronts and backs of the seat boxes. Each front and back frames are built the same way. There is a top rail and a wider bottom rail connected by two supports as pictured. The fronts and backs are then attached to one another with supports on the top only.
Once the fronts and backs are married, I attached the side panels to complete the seat box frames.
Step 3: Cut and Assemble the Seat Decks
These consist of 3 parts, the seat deck, the front and a narrow filler.
Something to note is fabrics thickness... You have to cut the seat decks about 3/16 less on each side. I only gave an eighth of an inch and I fought with the seats because of how tight the tolerances were. If it was only a seat or two in one row, the eighth inch would have been plenty. But I ran five seats in one row and five in the other. It was a very tight fit.
Step 4: Scribe That Pesky Column
Once I found the center of the the column (with some cool geometry tricks) I was able to use a router with a circle guide to cut the seat deck.
If you do not know the diameter of a circle and only have acces to part of the column, you can figure out the diameter with three points of the column.
Take a look at the picture to see the detail. but basicly you will connect one point to another with a straight line, find the center of said line and lay a square on the line with the longer edge going 90 degrees to the line at the center. Then scribe that line. Do the same to the other connecting line and where they meet is the center of the column. You now know the diameter, based on the radius.
Step 5: Cut the Back Panels
Step 6: Get Sample Approval for the Client
Now I move on to a different project while I wait.
Step 7: Installation Day - Seat Boxes
The floor was terribly wavy. So I had gaps everywhere, I used scraps screwed and glued to the inside of the seat boxes to give full support before removing the shims. You can see them in the pictures. They're basically hidden legs.
Step 8: Installation Day - Back Panels and Square Tubing
Basically start at one end and work your way to the other. Not much more to say here so lots of pics.
Step 9: Installation Day - Seat Decks, Toe Kick and Touch-up
All that's left is the toe kick after the seat decks are in place.
The toe kick is simply scribed to match the floor waviness. This is done by placing strips of 1/4" black MDF against the seat boxes and then using a scrap block with a pencil layed on top then slide the pencil block across the floor transferring the floor waviness to the toe kick. Then remove the toe kick and cut along the line, then re-attach the strips.