Step 10: Aligning the deck to the frame

I drilled the holes through the deck into the metal tabs that i had welded on the frame.  i figured it would look cleaner if the holes were aligned with the deck - rather than the frame.

To do this i started by clamping the frame to the table, and then clamping the deck to the frame.  I used an 1/8" drill as a pilot.   each time i drilled a hole i left the pilot drill in the hole to maintain the board alignment.  This is a nice trick if you have extra drill bits lying around.

The other approach would be to swap bits out, drill to 3/8" clearance and drop a bolt in. 

I really like that you used the nylon tightening straps to secure this to prvent tipping!
I think now that bungees will work better. But we will see what the kids do.
I vote for the tightening straps: Once they're in-place, there's no possibility to move the tripod. Bungees will tend to extend themselves a bit more, allowing tripod to balance and move on the base.<br>Additionally, Alienjones comment is really relevant about bumps. Try that idea.<br>Go on making it a bit better. It worths the effort. You'll have a true professional tool.<br>(Next time don't forget to rotate your photos. :D )
I've made a few of these in my time and I can see an immediate flaw in this one just like the first one I made. The &quot;pipe saddles&quot; holding the rails on the sleepers. My first effort saw me editing out the bumps every time the wheels went over them. Ouch!<br><br>A smoother ride was found by screwing the pipe to the sleepers. Drill a larger hole on top so the screw head can fit through it. The wheels don't feel anything and the whole length is a smooth shoot.<br><br>THe trade off benefit of doing this is when you transport it, you only need slide the rails in opposite directions and the rails &amp; sleepers narrow down to a transportable affair you can put on a roof rack or show ski bars.
Curious how it performed over jointed sections. Wondering if maybe offsettng the wheels woudl smooth things out if it was bumping or jumping at joints. <br>
i used two 20' pieces so there were no joints. good point though - for a longer track (say 30') one would want to make sure that the connection joints did not align.<br><br>with 12 wheels it would probably smooth things out. should be able to get the joint within 1/64&quot; - <br><br>
I wonder if having the cuts in joints sliced at say 45 degree angels and then put the slants so they run veritcal if that too could help in smoothing out the transition ? Not sure how much it would help, I haven't built one yet. It's minus 39 out and since I won't be building one for awhile, I'm just gathering ideas right now. Not sure I could transport 20 foot lengths very easily.Thank You. Happy New Year <br>
You might even want to consider using a larger nylon cutting board as a base instead of wood, no doubt cheaper than seaboard.
that's exactly what HDPE is - nylon cutting boards. Note that i was quoting 1/2&quot; and 1&quot; thicknesses. also - it comes in black or white.
I have seen the same thing sell for far more just because it is related to fishing or the sea. Specialized if you will. I like the instructable, gave me more itdeas, thank you. Happy New Year. <br>
You should put harder wood if you are using<br>an automatic cutter
i should? what do you mean harder wood?

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