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Camouflaged Power-Source Liberator

Step 7Build a casing.

Build a casing.
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You now have a device that will plug into a socket, function as a socket and, all the while, power whatever small device your heart desires. This device is clearly in desperate need of a case that will camouflage it out in the urban environment.

The case needs to be approximately an inch and a half longer than the power box you intend to cover. It should be large enough to fit over the junction box, but still allow the device inside to be able to plug all the way into the existing socket. As well, when it is plugged in, the case should be relatively flush to the wall. The face plate should be about half an inch longer in all directions to allow for room on the inside of the case to install your own circuitry.

Even with such slight increases, you should still have more than enough room to fit your circuit board inside. However, do not take my word for it. Make sure that you do before you go to plug it in.

Once the box is built, you are going to want to paint it the color of the box you intend to place it over. If it looks more or less the same, most people probably won't even notice the difference or care to check.

I have yet to construct a casing that I am pleased with. I did get this aluminum (see picture) in hopes that maybe once painted, it would look convincing. I have yet to construct it. However, I'm sure someone should be able to figure something out; be it modifying an existing case or constructing a new one. I would be happy to hear suggestions.
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2 comments
Jul 14, 2011. 5:23 PMbadams2 says:
Have you tried an old-work exterior box such as the one found here (Lowe's)?
Dec 7, 2007. 8:36 AMmctylr says:
Perhaps a plastic retrofit outlet/switch box from a building centre (e.g. Home Depot, Example). An exterior box model may be easier to weatherproof.

I'd also suggest paying attention to weatherproofing the box if it is intended for outdoor use. Water and electricity don't mix.

The wiring of the plug to sockets should be double checked with a 3-prong AC tester (e.g. U.S. model or U.K. style) - they are infinitely handy to have anyhow.

Heat-shrink tubing is more durable than electrical tape for insulating the wiring joints. And I find it easier to make a neat and tidy seal.


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