Camping Wind Turbine

Step 4: The Stand

Cut the aluminum pipe to a 12" length and then cut 4 equidistant slots into the bottom. These slots should be about 1 1/4" high. Then, cut two rectangular pieces out of the sheeting and cut slots about halfway through both of them. These should fit nicely together and be long enough to extend about an inch past the aluminum pipe (see pictures for clarity).

As shown in picture 5, cut 8 of these pieces (about 1 1/4" wide and 12" to 14" long). Drill three holes in each of these pieces: one on each end and one about 4 inches in from the side without the angled cut.

On the side of the more closely drilled holes, cut a rounded corner (this will allow the "legs" to fold upwards toward the aluminum pipe).
Attach the 8 pieces (in pairs) to each of the four corners of the cross-piece that is attached to the aluminum pipe (see pictures for clarity). I used the 1/8" Hex screws but really any bolt or screw should work. The hole on the side of the angled cut will be for attaching the stakes.

Comments

[acoleman3]

if you made the ends wider then the base and researched/practice with the armouring technique called dishing, im sure your blades would be more efficient since the larger cupped surface would catch more of the wind.

[brewgyver]

Doesn't work that way. Look at the big commercial WTGs - the ends of the blades are always MUCH smaller than at the hub.

[acoleman3]

i was thinking along the lines of taking the blade design of a handheld anemometer and dishing the ends slightly (with the center of the dish closer to the edge if the rotational direction), it would catch more air and be driven easier with less wind.

[teh1ghool]

At a first glance, it probably has something to do with catching an equal volume of air per unit of time in motion, as well as having less drag.