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Can in Can Grill

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Picture of Can in Can Grill
Inspired by the Vesto Stove, I set out to take some garbage and make my own high efficiency barbeque.

Materials needed:
2 empy paint cans of differing size
Handfull of rivets

Tools needed:
Drill
Full drill bit index
Masking tape, 2"
Pen or Pencil
Tin Snips
Hammer
Flatt head screw
Pop-rivitter
Vice-Grip or Channel locks or Line-man pliers
Vacuum
 
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Step 1: Find 2 paint cans

Picture of Find 2 paint cans
You will want the outer can to be large enough to provide a decent cooking surface, with the inner can being only a bit smaller. The intent is to have an air chamber that will pre-heat the incoming air to increase efficiency of fire.

Step 2: Drill vent holes

Picture of Drill vent holes
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You will now be making the template for the air holes.

A. Wrap tape at the top of outer can, and at bottom of inner can. Two layers may be necessary if there is writing underneath tape. Then intent is to have the air move as far as possible inside of chamber, so it would be counter-productive to have holes at same level.

B. Draw a diamond or lattice patter in tape. This will help give you a regular pattern when drilling the holes. Make pattern large enough to retain structural integrity of can.

C. Attach lid and tape in place. (2nd Image)

D. Drill holes.

I used a 6.5mm drill for the holes of both cans and used the same pattern on both cans as well. You may want to use larger, I have not yet tested this and may enlarge my holes as well.

I found that when drilling, I could minimise the jaggies if I slowed the drill before pulling back out of the hole. Its nearly impossible to elimate jaggies, so beware of being pricked.

You could punch the holes instead of drilling, but this would cause extensive deformation of the can.

E. Remove tape after all the holes have been drilled. Remove tape with a waving motion to reduece breakage - making the process easier.

F. Lastly, vacuum all the shavings so you don't track them all over the house. A note: make sure you have a good bag in your vac. If not, you will most certainly cause extensive damage to your vacuum.
irritant#98 years ago
Where can you buy a flathead screwdriver? I never knew they made a screwdriver just for flathead screws. You didn't mention as to whether your flathead screwdriver was phillips or slot bladed....
omg hahaha where do you buy a flathead screwdriver olol most hardware stores or sumfin liek walmart sumfin like that
ZOMG you people here know how to talk about a simple thing as a flat srewdriver :-O
dude, Epic Fail
i lold
me to lolol
One could assume it would be slotted, as most people refer to a slotted screwdriver to being a "flat head" because the blade of the screwdriver is flat...it is very annoying for those of us who do know what each one is called. But what is the one that looks like a torx, only with a post in the middle making it so that you can't fit a slotted screwdriver inside it...oh, and I have license plate bolts that are similar, only they're hex-keyed, with the post in the middle of them too...would you know what screws/bolts with that (for lack of better term) head pattern is??
lucek7 years ago
you want more holes in the iner* can than the outer. think about ash holes in the bottom.
blksheep7 years ago
Nice job. You mentioned that it needed a little more airflow. Would fewer, larger holes work better? Or maybe large slots with a mesh screen? Hopefully I'll get a chance to try this one out.
What size cans did you use? AFAIK the largest metal ones around here are 1gallon~4liter.
nabilahmad (author) 8 years ago
sorry to neglect the comments for so long. I have tried it out. It works well with a breeze. However, it does need more air flow when there is no wind. This cannot compare with the Vesto, as it has been much more throroughly engineered and tested. You place the combustables in the smaller can and the pot/grill across the top of the whole apperatus. Addiional modifcations to suggest would be handles and a simple ballast (rock) in the bottom of the larger can to provide assurance that it won't tip over easily. Irritant, flathead vs slot blade is all a matter of localized linguistics. I feel a bit experienced in this matter as I am working with people, in person, from about eighty different countries every day - It doesn't matter what you call it, just understand what you are trying to do with it and figure out what will work best for you. These are basic instructions, not guiding hands.
try a fan lol duh
Squee8 years ago
Cool idea, looks very similar to the pepsi can hiking stove thingee I saw online a while back. I was going to make a crack about somone who has all of those tools also being able to afford a grill, then I realized I have all but the rivet gun and can't afford a grill (but could probably manage a rivet gun) ;-).
zenstoves dot com (i dont want a frikkin hyperlink lol, they bug me) i made one that burns alcohol and cooked some marshmallows over it. funn stuff
Pike8 years ago
21 Century Hobo Stove?
Wow, very interesting! first thing I thought of when I saw this was "stuff some refractory mix in that empty space between the two cans, and you've got a foundry!" Heh heh heh... reminds me of the propane take foundry I've got in my back yard.... quite a beast... Anyways, looks pretty good!
Edgar8 years ago
If you liked that, you'll love this, just click the link:

Coffe Can Foundry
AymericRdV8 years ago
anybody still using a slotted/flathead screw driver should be shoved back into the 50's..because that's where those belong.
Calltaker8 years ago
Actually, theoretically speaking, as long as you have heat inthe can, it will move the air in there upwards as it warms it, drawing more in the bottom, This would then create it's own breeze. The key there is to have a place for the air moving upwards to go. If you put a grill rack over the top, you should get a good burn, if not slow and steady. If you were to use this for cooking in a pot, I would suggest working out some sort of ventillation holes in the vertical lip of the top (around the outside lip) allowing the heated air to escape and replenish the oxygen to the fire via the vent holes. Having scrolled back up again, i also beilieve I may have found the other part of your ventillation problem. Your outer holes are in the top of the can, while the inner ones are in the bottom. I would put your outer holes below the inner holes, to enhance and help direct the updraft that you are trying to create. This should allow a more free flow of the air. Mind you, this is great idea, just wanted to add from a number of years as a firefighter and way too many classes on the subject of fire :) ~C
dropkick8 years ago
I'm sorry to say this, as it looks like you put quite a bit of work into this and did a good job, but wouldn't this stove need at least 3 walls to work correctly, or the positioning of the holes reversed? The way it looks to me now, the fire would heat the air in between the walls, then it would rise and exit from the outside holes at the top of the can. This would get a draft started where unheated air enters from the open top travels through the fire and then exits through the wall. This would be almost the exact opposite from what you would want.
you can put some cheap lemon juice or vinegar or other acid (like HCl) on the surfaces to strip off the zinc coating. It will also help dissolve some of the paints. To make the reaction move along faster do something that will increase entropy. (like heat the juice/acid up near boiling and then apply it. It will smell like complete ass, but it will not be toxic like the burning zinc oxide / paint decompositions. The alternative is to burn it out, and make sure the white smoke goes somewhere other than on your person or personal affects.
j.w_lewis8 years ago
for fuel use cotton balls soaked in metho or kero (kero is safer because you can see the flame easier but meth burns hotter
Thaikarl8 years ago
where goes the combustables? where sits the pot?
meddler8 years ago
Iv'e been looiing for a stove design to put in my emergency supplies. This hits the spot, good job.
cornflakes8 years ago
Good seening israelis here, nice work.
russingram8 years ago
here's one made from soda cans, for camping:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beverage-can_stove

The soda-can-stoves are different. The soda-can-stoves burn fuel, and one chamber is used to heat the fuel to gas in the other chamber. The fuel jets out of both chambers, but efficiency in increased from the second because the second chamber helps pressurize the gas, and sends it out of small holes, so it mixes better with the air as it burns. This can-stove above is intended for preheating air before it reaches the burning wood. I think, normally, cold air would reduce the temperature of the fire, making for smokier, less efficient burning.
ewilhelm8 years ago
When you get a chance, post some pictures of it in operation.
spinach_dip8 years ago
this is very close to the Sierra Stove:

http://www.zzstove.com/sierra.html

oh and here a homemade version:

http://www.backpacking.net/makegear/smitycampstove/index.html

good instructable!
I like it, i don't camp, but I might whip one up and stick it with the hurricane supplies, I've always been interested in these sort of technologies.. And thank you for properly attributing it.