Canon Pixma CD Disk Tray





Introduction: Canon Pixma CD Disk Tray

Many Canon Pixma printers have the ability to print directly on CD and DVD disks but have been disabled by Canon. Enabling the printer itself is easy, but you are still left without the OEM disk tray.

UPDATE.  The link for the image is now available here:

This tutorial shows how to make one for a few bucks if anything at all, as the materials are pretty common.

The initial idea was found on StevesForums.

Step 1: Gather the Tools & Materials.

Materials needed are as follows:

1. DVD Case (AOL does come in handy).
2. Thin (flexible) plastic binder. Both plastics may be substituted with heavy (but thin) cardboard/matte-board.
3. Adhesive spray or fixative. Artists adhesive works, but I found that carpet adhesive works much better as it is more flexible.
4. Small piece of aluminum foil.
5. The CD Disk Tray template (right-click, "Save Link As").

The tools are as follows:

1. Razer blade.
2. Ruler.
3. Band-aids are optional but come in handy when the razor gets your finger. Trust me.

Step 2: Prepare the Top Layer.

Cut the front of the DVD case off- this is the only part we use from it. Trim all the sides off so as to have a perfectly flat piece of black plastic.

Print the Disk Tray Template out on plain paper but be sure you print at the actual size! I put the measurement in cm on the tray so you can tell if it is true-to-size once printed.

Spray a bit of fixative on the plastic and adhere the paper to it. Be sure the paper fits the plastic and doesn't overhang on either side. It is okay to overhang at the bottom (see picture).

Next spray some fixative to the paper and stick an old CD/DVD to it. You may use the template (cut INSIDE the line, not ON) but I find that tracing a disk is easier than tracing a line.

Step 3: Cut the Top Layer.

Using the razor blade, SLOWLY cut around the disk, making a cut just deep enough to see. Continue this for the 3 squares and any sides that may be visible outside of the paper.

Now, if needed, pull off the paper and continue SLOWLY cutting your original marks. If the paper is not in the way or is stuck you may leave it. All you are doing is making deeper and deeper cuts until it finally cuts through. Going too fast will either make you mess us and cut outside the line or will cause you to cut through the plastic and right into your finger. I have a few cuts to prove it.

Once the pieces are completely removed you can smooth out the cuts with the razer (pictured). Try to make the circle just big enough to fit the disk but not too big that the disk moves around.

Step 4: Cut the Botom Layer.

Cut off the cover of the plastic binder. Print out a second template at actual size and slightly adhere it to the cover of the plastic binder. Do not cut any of the inside but do cut all the outside so as to be a perfect rectangle fitting the template. A METAL ruler should be used as a guide.

Remove the paper from the clear plastic.

Now lay the top (black) layer on top of this new plastic piece to see how closely they match. They should be near identical in width. Mark the squares on the clear sheet as we will need to know where to adhere the foil.

Spray a bit of adhesive on the clear plastic and adhere two pieces of foil (shiny side up!)- enough that the holes in the black piece are filled with foil. (see picture). The foil is needed because the printer looks for the reflection of light and will reject the tray if it is not present.

Now spray the BACK side of the black plastic so that it can adhere to the clear plastic. Spray the black instead of clear because we do not want to dull the shiny foil on the clear piece. Spray enough to completely coat the back of the black plastic. Now stick it to the clear plastic and move it around to ensure complete contact.

The last pictures show the front and back.

Now try it in the printer so see how it fits. It should be snug but NOT tight. If it is tight at all just use the razor and shave here and there until it fits- just a little at a time! If it is too loose then you will never get an identical print when printing on the disks. It needs to be near perfect of you will have a lot of trouble consistently aligning the printer to print correctly on the disk.

That's it, feel free to ask questions.


Step 5:



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    is it possible to print on cd/dvd in canon pixma mg3570 printer ?

    Here's the new link. Sorry about that!

    I would like to try this, but the pattern link is still not working. Is there any way I can get that?

    1 reply

    Sorry I've been MIA for so long. The original hosting site no longer exists, but I was able to find the file. It's now online at . If this one disappears just let me know!

    Pls, I have the original tray for pixma IP 4300, but it do not work with IP4200, when try to print, load the tray and reject without print. In your picture link, it is broken, so I can not compare you device with my CD tray to copy the back side. I need to see for add small square windows with metal foil.
    My email is Thanks in advance

    I have a Pixma MP600R EU version, SO I had to make some modification in the template, everthing seems to be allright following the original CD disk tray F, but for somehow the printer rejects it everytime, I made a second one with the square holes precisly as the original but even so the printer rejects it. Any ideia, any sugestion will be very apreciated. I really don't want to pay € 25~30 for a piece of plastic.

    PS. my printer is already enabled for disc printing (EU version) , I lost my disk tray

    1 reply

    I found the problem!! the disc tray was to thin about 1.5mm, so I glued 2 pieces of paper (A4) and cutted the left margins That made the cd tray exactly 2mm. it just worked!!!! Now I just have to align it!!!

    Hey Drywater, thanks for sharing! Thanks to you I don't have to pay for the disck tray wich is expensieve. Thanks pal!!!!!

    ----- I have an ORIGINAL CANON CD TRAY available for sale. It was a pain in the butt to get, but I got it. BRAND NEW and UNUSED.

    msg me or post your email address and offer. thanks

    1 reply

    Is your CD tray still available and does it fit Canon Pixma IP6600D model

    £15.00 including carriage?

    Surely you do not mean 2 cm? That is almost one inch! (2.5cm = 1")

    2 replies

    Sorry, I meant .2 CM! Thanks for catching that!

    What kind of sheet metal? What thickness? The tray I made following yr instructions works perfectly. (Thanks!) I'm interested because I made the bottom of mine tray out of 2 layers of card stock (laminated with spray adhesive) and it warps if / when it isn't stored lying on a flat surface. (So I'll probly have to make a more durable one soon) Thanks for your contribution. You gave me the satisfaction of NOT having to buy yet another doomed-to-obsolescence and unrepairable Epson! Yay!

    1 reply

    I do not know what kind of sheet metal it is. It was found on a role in the garage. I assume it is used for flashing when re-roofing, but do not really know. It is very thin and was easily cut using tin snips (unlike steel computer casing, for example). I posted a picture in the post which shows the total thickness. The tin is just less than .1 CM while the adhered plastic is just over .1 CM. I used a grinder to smooth out the "snipped" edges of the metal. Hope this helps.


    Does anyone know what the max thickness should be or what thickness works? And if the cd is flush with the tray or stands proud? It also looks like there are no small clips in the center of any of the home made trays. Wont there be an issue with shifting or rotating slightly?

    2 replies

    I am not sure of the max thickness but mine is about 0.2 cm total thickness. I should update this instructable now as I have found sheetmetal to work much better than the clear plastic show in this instructable. I still use the black plastic to make the hole in (then adhere to the metal) as it's much easier to cut than the sheet metal. The CD does not need to be flush as long as it is low enough to pass through the printer. The black part is just to keep it from moving around. In my current tray the disk sits just above flush of the black layer (so with the disk it is just over 0.2 cm). I am planning on sanding the back side of the sheet metal a bit to get it the total height (with the disk) to be closer to 0.2 cm and not as high. The only reason is because the rollers press the disk a bit too much so if looked at in the right light you can see the wide tracks on the disk. Of course it is not high enough to catch the print head so it is perfectly safe but if it were a bit more low profile I think the final output would be better than perfect. The tray only needs to keep the disk from moving around and is not needed to prevent it from rotating. The printer has wide rollers that keep pressure on the disk (further inside the printer) so there is absolutely no rotating at all (at least with mine, which I believe should be the same with all). Even if the disk was able to move around in the tray a bit it would not shift inside the printer. The only reason you want it as snug as possible as so that you can align the printer using UndercoverXP (or whatever other software) and keep it consistent.

    Also, I think if it it too tall it will jam right away before entering the printer so at least it shouldn't jam inside. Though I'm sure even jamming outside the printer is not too good for the printer :)