It wasn't long before I decided to start messing around with capacitors and creating some sparks. Soon I noticed how time spending it was to connect the capacitor to the power supply, charge it, disconnect it and just then, short the leads.
So this came to me, a little device that will charge the capacitors and disconnect them for you. The best part is that the speed at which they are connected and disconnected from the power supply can be regulated.
Even though in this Instructable I will be using low voltages such as 20v, I believe you can, by using higher voltage capacitors do the same with much bigger sparks and fun.
So let's get started!
NOTE:
I am NOT responsible for any Zapping caused to you by this project. If you choose to add higher value capacitors and use a higher voltage I am not responsible for whatever the outcome of such ideas is. It might end up being fun or it might end with some nasty burns.
The Schematic is to be opened using Eagle Cad.
Schematic.sch35 KB
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S/. 34 which is about US $11.40
Materials you will need:
-1- DPDT Switch (Double Pole Double Throw)
-2- LED Holders
-2- LEDs (Your choice of color)
-1- 20k Potentiometer
-1- Knob for the Pot
-2- DC Barrel Connectors (Female, The ones you can screw on the enclosure)
-2- SPDT Relays 12v Coil
-1- DPDT Relay 12v Coil
-2- 1N4004 Diodes
-1- Perforated Board Small
-1- NE555 Timer IC
-3- 1/2 Watt Resistors
-1- uF Capacitor
-1- 0.1 uF Capacitor
-1- L7812cv
-1- 3.3 uF Capacitor
-1- 22 uF Capacitor
-3- 1000 uF Capacitors 25v (You can choose a higher value if you want, I found 3000 uF was enough)
-2- Banana Female Jack
-1- Enclosure for the Project + Screws
-1- Strip of Female header Connectors
You will also need:
-Soldering Iron
-Power Supply Capable of delivering 20v
-A second power supply from 12v - 20v
-A couple of pliers
-Solder
-Helping Hands
-Patience
-Electrical Tape
-Red Wire
-Black Wire






















































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It will although make the two pens stick together a bit but they easily come apart.
I would have to use a higher voltage and probably, as some people have told me that would kill the relays due to arcing unless I used a snubber or something like that. I still have to go over this circuit again to make it more efficient in terms of the relays and the supposed arcs that are created between contacts.
So if you can tell me how to get AC from a 9v battery I would be happy to try this out.
I design, build and run big radar transmitters, and some use capacitors of around a microfarad. Not much, but they charge up to 40, 000 volts. When you short across THAT, you'd better have ear protection on, and stand behind something solid, and don't look at the arc.
Purely Awesome.
Thanks for the memories.
1 ohm = 1.139 x 10^(-12) sec/cm
so you would need to multiply 16 ohms by some particular constant distance (in cm) in order to get your right age, which is that? or is it a secret?
Best Regards
Jorge
I recommend you to read again carefully.
;)
Interesting project. Could you minaturize this small enough to go into a model trolley car. The point of the spark would be where the trolley pole touches the overhead wire.
I want to control the trolley with Radio Control and use a Battery for power. This way I don't have to have the overhead wire "HOT". The "Cap's N Sparks" device could create the spark at the where the trolley pole touches the overhead wire. The spark would make it look very real.
This youtube video shows the kind of spark I am looking for:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=unhXEQQk8G8
Thanks,
Bill
Remove the extra relay for the LED's. Now instead of 3 1000 uF caps just buy one of a higher capacitance say 5k uF.
You might have some problems with the relay. I have received some commentaries at HackADay saying something I didn't know about, called arcing.
So you might want to wait a little bit while I try to figure out how to "protect" the relays from these arcs. Also you might have to use a 9v battery to power the relays unless you can find a 3v relay.
Regarding the charging of the capacitors, well, you might have some problems here as well. How will you charge them, I was recommended to use only 1 power supply, but in this case, if you have your trolly on a rail you could have the 20v running through the rails onto the capacitors and have the overhead wire be connected to the 20v ground to do the short circuit.
If you could send me a picture of what the trolley looks like I would be happy to help you.
Sincerely GranTotem
I look at it this way, if someone needs warnings so basic, or even about the incredibly obvious possibility of electric shock - they should NOT be playing around with electricity/electronics in the first place.
Maybe gardening would be safer - hmm, but then you'd have to warn about potentially sharp trowels, not to eat fertilizer, possible drowning from the water hose, sunstroke, insect bites etc. etc. People need to take some responsibility for their own actions, instead of making it everyone else's to keep them safe. Just a thought. (Or does this have to do with rampant sue-happy people in the US who will blame the author if they get hurt?)
Great comment though!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-P9BV0r6QM
Since you are going to do so, you might want to try using a disposable camera to charge the capacitors. That means that they will have a charge of about 400v if im not wrong.
That is some pretty nice sparks I bet. Just take into account that it might not work like mine, you might not be able to make it spark like crazy. Already at 20v the metals, when they touch each otherm they stick together. They melt. So at 400v you might end up with a soldering iron.
If not you might want to use capacitors with a larger capacitance, say 1 Farad.
Happy Building!
Because when I was designing it, I played around with values and voltages, and it seemed like they both affect. The higher the voltage and the higher the capacitance the bigger the sparks. When I lowered voltage the sparks decreased in size.
Thanks
When you double the voltage the stored energy quadruples.
Here is a calculator that shows the stored energy in a capacitor.
Your bank charged to 25v has just under 1 joule. Mine charged to 2.5v has 16,250 joules. A common disposable camera capacitor 120uF at 330v has 6.5 joules.
My bank is made with boost caps which won't discharge quickly. They will discharge in about 5 seconds at the fastest.
Please tell me more on how you made this capacitor bank.
Also, what is the main use of a capacitor bank, I've heard about them but I can't see the use except for doing what my proyect does and maybe melting metals together.
Where on earth did you get a 5200 Farad capacitor?
On the shop I go to, they barely have capacitors up to 100F and they are huge.
I got them as surplus quite cheaply. They are very expensive new. I got mine from electronic goldmine a while back. Sometimes they get more in but they sell out very quickly. An ebay search for "maxwell ultracapacitor" turns up a few of them.
1, never use a voltage higher than the capacitor's rating. At very least it will leak, and worst it might damage the cap and/or explode.
2, when using electrolytic caps (the big black ones) NEVER wire it backwards. If the polarity is wrong it WILL explode. So pay attention to the lead that has a bunch of minus signs (-) going up the side.
3. Be wary of thin wires vaporizing or the contacts welding together. When I first did this using a disposable camera (which comes with a built-in charging system, by the way!) I actually welded a screwdriver to the capacitor terminals.
4. Never Ever touch both leads of the capacitors with any part of your body when charged.
You might want to also check out ZVS Flyback drivers...
You might also be interested in (Youtube user) Telsabang's HV Power supply:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ypNy3g_1t2I&feature=plcp