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This tutorial will teach you how to capture full body scans of people using photogrammetry and to prepare them for 3D printing. By utilizing a few DSLRs, lights, a turntable, a good pc, a couple relatively inexpensive software programs, and with patience and practice, you can capture professional quality scans with full color textures for 3D printing (or other uses). Let's begin...

Step 1: Equipment

Hardware:

1 large turntable - Arqspin 24" Pro Turntable. $350.00 (Arqspin)

6 photo light fixtures and stands (minimum lighting) - 2 Top Lighting photo lighting kits. Color balanced CFLs for photography. Total of 1,080 Watts. $265.00 (Amazon)

4 DSLRs - Make sure they are of the same make and model. I used Canon EOS 1100D cameras with standard 18 - 55mm kit lenses. $1,800.00 (Amazon)

4 AC adapters for camera power - AC adapter CA-PS700. Model #WP-ACO7420. $37.00 (Amazon)

1 light stand. This is for the cameras. $10.00 (Amazon)

4 camera mounts. $40.00 (Amazon)

4 USB to miniUSB cable - 6' Amazon Basics. $6.00 (Amazon)

1 USB hub with 4 ports - Sabrent Model: HB-U3P4. $15.00 (Amazon)

1 remote shutter release - SHOOT remote switch. $24.00 (Amazon)

1 white vinyl backdrop 9' x 15' (or 6' x 12' minimum). $63.00 (Amazon)

6 clamps (or more) for backdrop. $9.00 (Amazon)

3 power strips. $20.00 (Amazon)

* 1 circuit board for connecting remote shutter to all 4 cameras. This was done for me and I don't have a cost associated with it. You will probably have to do this step yourself.

* Computer. You will also need a notebook or desktop computer. It may be helpful to have a dedicated computer for capture and another one for image processing and scan cleanup or a render farm, if you intend on doing a lot of scanning.

Software:

All the following programs are available for both Windows and Mac.

SmartShooter - To capture the images. $50.00 (SmartShooter)

Agisoft PhotoScan - This program analyzes the shot and positions them as virtual cameras in order to create the 3D model. $179.00 (Agisoft)

ZBrush - You'll need this to clean the PhotoScan model to make it ready for printing. (I already owned this software so it was free for me). $795.00 (ZBrush)

Recommended:

2 rolls of gaffers tape - 1 brightly colored for marking stand placements and gear 1/2" wide. 1 neutral roll (standard black or brown) 2" wide for taping down cords and cables. $35.00 (Amazon)
7 sandbags - 5 lb. sandbags should be sufficient for weighing down the light and camera stands. (Will need to add sand). $40.00 (Amazon)


Total Cost: $3,738.00

Note: Some prices are approximate and subject to change. You may find these or similar items for more or less than listed here.

While this system may seem expensive, it gets great results. Most 3D scanners that cost less than this can only scan small objects and get poor detail. Laser scanning systems that are comparable to the level of detail that my photogrammetry system can achieve cost around this much or more and can record surface detail but not color information. There are a number of ways to reduce the cost of the system, such as building a DIY turntable.

Step 2: Setting the Stage

Above are photos of two different implementations of the system and in different states of completion; different spaces require different orientations of the lights. A backdrop is essential to provide adequate reflected light and help the software separate the subject from the background. You will have to experiment with your setup to find what works best in your space.

The key is to get your subject lit well, get a good amount of light reflected off the backdrop and to minimize shadows. It is preferable to position the lights in such a way that the subject's shadow falls behind them and their body blocks the shadow from the cameras' collective view. The large backdrop will also allow you to lay part of it on floor. Place the turntable on top of it to reflect light up onto the subject. Reflectors and bounce boards (foil or foamboard) can also be used for this purpose.

For my setup the distance between the cameras and the center of the turntable (where the subject will be standing) is roughly 6'. This is the minimum distance needed if setting the camera lenses to 50mm. At least another 2' of distance between the backdrop and the center of the turntable will also be required. The opposing lights, to stage right and left, are around 7' from each other.

You will also need some room to position your lights, adjust camera settings and a small space for your workstation.

Plan on setting aside a 9' L x 9' W x 8' H space for the complete set; backdrop, turntable, lights, cameras and workstation.

Keep in mind that the turntable is 6" higher than the floor. (For DIY turntables the height may be greater). Therefore a 6' 2" subject will actually be 6' 8" from the floor to the top of the head. The top camera in your setup will need to be above that to shoot the top of the head properly.

Step 3: Camera Setup

Mount the cameras on the camera stand at least 8" apart from each other. They will be mounted sideways as seen in the photos above.

Insert DC coupler into each camera's battery port and connect the AC adapter to an outlet, preferably through a powerstrip with surge protection. Insert one end of the remote shutter cord into the remote shutter port on the camera and the other end into the remote shutter board. Plug the remote shutter switch into the remote shutter board as well. Insert the small end of the miniUSB to USB cable into the miniUSB port on the camera and the full-sized USB end to the USB hub. Connect the USB hub to the computer through a USB port and power on the USB hub.

Choose the focal length for your setup. It may be preferable to use fixed local length camera lenses of 35mm or 50mm. 50mm is the better of the two. This is what is called a "normal" lens and it "sees" what a human eye would see. Since the cameras came with the standard 18mm-55mm kit zoom lens, I guesstimated where 50mm would be (by counting the rings between 35mm and 55mm) and marked it off with bright gaffers tape and a sharpie. At the distance my cameras were from the subject 50mm worked very well, just framing the subject without much extra space. Set the camera to manual operation and manual focus on the lens, i.e. turn the dial on top of the camera to full manual and flip the switch on the lens from AF to MF.

Go into the Menu Settings on the cameras. Make sure that Auto Power is set to OFF. The AC adapter will enable you to keep shooting without having to worry about power loss.

RAW files are too big to be handled over USB while continuously shooting with multiple cameras. High quality JPEGs work very well and will save you time and storage. (RAW files would need to be converted to JPEGs before being imported into PhotoScan and PhotoScan actually prefers unadulterated files). Make sure that Quality is set to Large JPEG.

Set Auto ISO to 3200. Enable Live View so you can easily check your shot and focus on your subject.

Step 4: Capturing Photos in Smart Shooter

Open SmartShooter. When all the cameras are connected to the computer through USB, SmartShooter should recognize all 4 cameras. If it doesn't or you encounter any other issues syncing the cameras, skip ahead to my troubleshooting steps.

When SmartShooter recognizes all 4 cameras, make sure "Multiple Cameras" from the pull down list under Camera Controls AND in the Viewer are selected and press the Connect button. You should be connected to all 4 cameras through Smart Shooter but you won't see the view from the cameras yet. To see the Live View from all 4 cameras, make sure "Multiple Cameras" from the pull down list under Camera Controls AND in the Viewer are selected and check Enable button under Live View in the Camera Controls panel. You will now see all 4 camera views but the view will be sideways since the cameras are mounted sideways on the camera stand. To correct for this press the rotate button in the Viewer until the cameras are right side up.

SmartShooter can control many of the camera settings through the USB connection to the cameras. Under Camera Controls set the cameras up as follows (some of this may change due to your available lighting): Aperture = 8, Shutter Speed = 1/40, ISO = 200, Exposure = 0, Quality = Jpeg Large Fine, Metering Mode = Evaluative, White Balance = AUTO, Focus Mode = Manual.

Have your subject stand in the center of the turntable so you can manually focus each camera. Press the magnification button on the upper right corner of the camera to zoom in the Live View to 10x. Rack the focus until the image is tack sharp and then press the magnification button again to return to normal view.

When you are ready to capture have the subject strike a relaxed pose with them standing towards the center of the turntable. Turn on the turntable. Have the subject remain very still as the turntable spins. It may be helpful for them to focus on an imaginary point in space that rotates with them in order to keep their eyes focused in one position. When they are facing the backdrop, with their back to you, beginning shooting with the remote shutter switch. Try to press the switch about 1.5 seconds apart to get 60 shoots, which Smart Shooter will resolve as 60 virtual cameras. Stop shooting just before the subject faces the backdrop again. If you end up with your last shots being identical or very similar to your first shots, throw those last shots out. If the shots are the same or very similar it will confuse PhotoScan and get a poor result.

Above are some shots of me, from my scan. (Someone else had to press the shutter release). While the images may seem similar, they are from different cameras; 1) high angle camera looking down to get the top of my head and getting another angle on my face and torso, 2) My head and torso from a more or less level view, 3) A camera with a slight low angle on my lower body, 4) A high angle shot of my lower body.

You need at least 2 angles of the same parts of the body to have the software make a mesh. Note that the photos of my upper body and lower body have a little overlap; you can see my hands and the top part of my pants in the upper body shots and the lower body shots. This is essential for PhotoScan to create a full body 3D model.

Step 5: Aligning Cameras in PhotoScan

In PhotoScan start a new project and import all the photos from your scan. When all the photos are loaded, go to Workflow - Align Cameras. Change the settings for aligning cameras under General to Accuracy: High, and under Advanced to Point Limit: 40,000. Press OK.

It will take some time to for PhotoScan to align the cameras, probably a few hours. When it is done, carefully check to make sure all the virtual cameras are in the correct positions. If the scan was a complete failure then PhotoScan will lump all the cameras on top of each other and only project points in one direction. If it was a good shoot the cameras should be in the correct position.

Often a few cameras may be out of alignment. It this occurs, select the affected cameras individually and right-click. In the pop-up menu select Reset Camera Alignment. Complete for all misalign cameras. These cameras will now show up in the Workspace window with NA next to them. Select one of these cameras, right-click and select Align Selected Cameras. Repeat until all cameras are positioned properly. If it is still a problem, try reseting and aligning the misaligned cameras again.

Step 6: Generating the Dense Point Cloud

When the camera were aligned they create a sparse point cloud. If the sparse point cloud looks good, you will generate a dense point cloud. First select rotate around the sparse point cloud to double-check. Then, select the bounding box rotation icon. Rotate the bounding box so it is aligned with the model, then select the bound box size icon and conform the bounding box until it fits just around the subject. When that is completed select Build Dense Cloud under the Workflow menu tab. Change the Dense Cloud settings under General to Quality: Medium, and under Advanced to Depth Filtering: Aggressive and press OK.

Step 7: Cleaning Up the Dense Point Cloud

When PhotoScan creates the Dense Point Cloud there will be some garbage, attached to the model, primarily bits of backdrop. Use the lasso tool to select as many of these extra point as possible and delete them. Make sure not to delete good point from your scan. It is helpful to rotate around the model to get different angles while doing this. Generally you will see the most garbage points in between the legs, around the feet and about the head. Once you've removed these bad points you are ready to proceed to generating the mesh.

Step 8: Building the Mesh

Once the Dense Point Cloud is cleaned up, the next step is to generate the mesh, which will give you a wireframe mesh and model. Under Workflow select Build Mesh. Adjust the settings under General to Surface Type: Arbitrary; Source Data: Dense Cloud; Polygon count: 5,000,000 and press OK. The mesh should generate within minutes.

Step 9: Building the Texture

Go to Workflow - Build Texture. Set it to General to Mapping mode: Generic; Blending mode: Mosaic (default); Texture size/count: 4096 x 1 and press OK. This will render very quickly and you can export the textured model as an .obj for cleanup.

Step 10: Cleaning Up the Model in ZBrush (and Maya)

If you were able to produce a successful model in PhotoScan you still have some work to do in ZBrush to make it suitable for 3D printing. You'll definitely has some scanning errors/problems that will need repair. The images above are of a model being cleaned in ZBrush. Note the missing chunk of ear that needs to be fixed.

The common issues you will run across are as follows:

Lumpiness, or bumps across the the surface of the model. These can be resolved using the flatten brush for even them out, followed by the smooth brush for final cleanup. You don't want to just use the smooth brush or you will lose all your nice scanned cloth folds, skin texture, facial features, etc.

Webbing and bit of backdrop attached to model. You will need to cut out webbing in between the legs, between the arms and the body, extra material attached to the face or head, etc.

Holes in the mesh or missing features. You may have some holes in the mesh, either from the scan itself or when you remove the additional material and webbing from your model. PhotoScan can only create models based on what is in the photos you give it. If in your scan the subject's arm blocks part of his/her torso so that part of the arm or body is not visible in enough shots for example, then PhotoScan will either mesh the arm to the body or leave a hole in the mesh where the one part occluded the view of the other. Some of this can be fixed in ZBrush but you may need another 3D program to help repair the mesh.

Long or flyaway hair or other small projecting features. Hair will possibly need to be re-sculpted especially if it is long. This is one instance where baldness is a blessing. Small features that project from the surface of the model will either not print or will break off when printed. For example, a hanging strap that is not flush/embedded on the model will not work. Best to cut these small pieces off.

Lester Banks published a great video tutorial on cleaning up AgiSoft PhotoScan models in ZBrush, that will very clearly show you the steps to prepare your model.

http://lesterbanks.com/2014/01/how-to-convert-and-...

Step 11: Tips, Tricks & Troubleshooting

The following steps will help with best practices to prepare for a successful shoot, potential problems, addressing software issues, etc.

Step 12: What Not to Wear

PhotoScan works best when there is a good amount of variation between adjacent pixels.

Here are some things that you should avoid...

1) Solid black clothing.

A black suit, dress, skirt, etc. will probably not scan well.

2) Tight patterns, especially stripes.

This will confuse the software when it tries to align the photos. (It will also make fixing the textures very difficult).

3) Very bright or very dark colors could be problematic.

4) Reflective surfaces.

This means no watches, jewelry or glasses. Glasses are especially bad because they will also distort facial features.

If you must have these items in the scan or on the model you can lightly dust them with baking powder. You may want to shoot this as a second pass or scan the items separately from the main subject. Alternatively, these items can be individual 3D models added to the main model in post.

Step 13: Problems With Syncing Cameras

If the cameras start going crazy and fire their shutters, go dark or won't turn off...

Or if the remote switch doesn't release the shutters on all the cameras or work at all...

Or if Smart Shooter won't recognize all the cameras or won't live view all the cameras, etc.

Don't Panic.

If you do the following, in the order described, it should resolve all these issues:

1) Turn off all cameras, shutdown the computer, disconnect all cables and the USB hub and turn the power off on the hub, too.

2) Restart the computer.

3) Open Smart Shooter.

4) Turn on all cameras and press Live View button on each camera.

5) Connect one camera at a time to the remote shutter board and to the unpowered and untethered USB hub.

6) Plug the remote switch into the remote shutter board. Test fire. All cameras should fire.

7) Plug USB hub into the computer with the hub still powered off.

8) Turn on the USB hub. Cameras may all go dark, with only one activated by remote switch. Don't worry. Move on to next step.

9) Smart Shooter should recognize all 4 cameras. Make sure "Multiple Cameras" from the pull down list under Camera Controls is selected and press the Connect button.

Now all 4 cameras should fire again with the remote switch. Test fire.

10) With "Multiple Cameras" selected under camera controls AND in the viewer, check off the Live View - Enable box under Camera Controls.

All cameras will probably go dark and the remote shutter may not work either. Don't worry, move on to next step.

11) Go to each camera and press the Live View button on the back of each camera until all 4 camera displays are active again.

12) Remote should work again. Test fire. Everything should be working now. You're ready to roll!

Step 14: Final Print

And there you go...

My model was printed at 12" tall on a Z Corp 3D printer in full color by iMakr. (A proprietary finishing method was used to make the colors pop and give it a light glossy finish).

If you like this tutorial please vote for it in the tech contest and formlabs contest! If I get a form1 I'll print my scans on it and share the results with the community.

Please post images of your setups, scans and printed models, too. I'd love to see your results!

<p>Hi, thankyou for your article, it inspired me to do the same system :) i have 4 canon 1200 d with 50 mm fixed lens, i have make the shutter board &amp; everything work fine. but i have trouble with overlaping alignement in photoscan with the photos of my lower body. (with medium setting for alignment its work but won't generate the mesh model )</p><p>I'm going crazy, it really need a lot of patience...</p><p>tweeking camera angle, smoothing the backdrop..</p><p>can you give me an advice ? maybe its the lightning or i need to change the backdrop...</p><p>thanks in advance</p><p>Fabio</p>
<p>Hi, Fabio. You're welcome. Thanks for posting your setup. Looks pretty good. You do need lots of patience. It will take some trial and error to get it right.</p><p>I would suggest changing the backdrop. Looks like you have a muslin/cotton backdrop and I didn't have much success with that. I'd replace that with a white vinyl backdrop. That will reflect much more light and help the software distinguish the subject from the backdrop. Get the backdrop as smooth as you can but it doesn't need to be perfect. Use clamps to pin the sides of the backdrop to the stands.</p><p>You need more light. I'd probably double your lighting. How many watts is that setup?</p><p>Looks like you're beginning to get results. I don't have so much white around my scans from the backdrop but that's really a matter of lighting. You really need more light.</p><p>From your example shots it looks like you're getting good overlap. You don't need so much headroom or extra space below the feet. Try tilting the cameras a little more to get even more overlap between the cameras.</p><p>One more thing I noticed is that you may have some shots that are too close together, like the first and last shots of the scan. Make sure you throw out any shots like that are too similar or it will confuse Photoscan and it won't be able to produce a model.</p><p>I really think most of your issues will be resolved with better lighting. A better backdrop is important for that as well. So, more lights and a vinyl backdrop are my main recommendations. Hope that helps. Please let me know how it goes and post your results.</p><p>Mike</p>
<p>Hi ! thankyou for your response,</p><p>here's my softbox kit,i think i will buy anthoner one for have 6 in total like your setup, mine have 4*125w ( 500w or 5000w ? ) <br></p><p><a href="http://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B009USJO8M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00" rel="nofollow">http://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B009USJO8M?psc=1&amp;r...</a></p><p>what other lightning equipement i can buy ? umbrella or what ?</p><p>yes i will see to buy another backdrop, I was thinking of buying a white paper photo background, but i think the vinyl will reflect more light and its a better choice.. <br></p><p>thankyou</p><p>Fabio</p>
<p>No problem. Glad I could help. You have 500W now, so you'll have 1000W plus a vinyl backdrop should give you better results. That's like I put in the tutorial. I've added another light kit since which has made it even better. I have a little over 1500W now. If you get a longer backdrop you can have more on the floor which could help reflect more light.</p>
<p>Instead of using 60+ DSLRs, your system only use 4 cameras and a turnable. Great idea! I wonder if it is sufficient for scanning other poses other than standing straight? How good is it handling slight movement?</p>
<p>Sorry, just seeing this message now. Any movement will create a problem with the scan. If it's something minor, like someone's eyes moving, usually that's just a matter of editing the color texture to fix the blur or multiple images. Best to stay really still.</p>
<p>Thank you! I have stood up the same system, experimented a lot and just got some good result. I have also tried some additional steps that proved to improve the result:</p><p>1. Mask off the white background with PhotoScan's mask from background feature before building sparse cloud can speed up the process a lot (because there are much fewer points to match)</p><p>2. After building the sparse cloud, use Graduate Selection to remove some reprojection uncertainty and error, also manually remove the points that appear to be wrong, then select Optimize the Camera Position. PhotoScan will then correct some camera positions based on the cleaned up sparse cloud.</p><p>Hope this help!</p>
<p>Hi </p><p><strong>SmartShooter for 50 $ can support 4 to 5 cams ?</strong></p><p><strong>with the smart shooter can we record videos from different camera?<br></strong></p>
<p>Smart Shooter only works for stills and you need Smart Shooter 3 Pro now for multiple cameras and it costs $120.</p>
Thanks for your reply,<br><br>can you post the backside image of the breadboard which you used for <br>trigger sync. <br>can you please help me where can i get the breadboard and the 2.5 mm jacks (Female port) ?
Hey man im creating a novice setup using 64 nikon cool pics 20 mp point and shoots. Smart shooter wont support that cam...<br>Do u know of a software i could use??? Thanks
<p>No, sorry I don't know of another program for that.</p>
<p>oh my gosh, that's awesome! I can imagine someone could take beautiful picture of its statue in uncommon little places (coffee shops, museums, etc) and create an original album about its travels.</p>
<p>Cool idea. Sort of like the Expedia gnome.</p>
<p>Have you considered using an Eye-fi card with the cameras to transfer the photos? Not sure if the extra cost would be worth it or not. I have no experience with Eye-fi so I don't know whether to buy it or not.</p>
<p>I'm not sure about Eye-fi. I haven't used it. It could probably eliminate the need for SmartShooter and might simplify the system somewhat but I'm not sure how well it would work with four cameras. The other option is to record directly to regular memory cards and transfer them individually to the computer.</p>
<p>Any chance that you could share some details on that circuit board for triggering all of the cameras at the same time?</p>
<p>So, I believe that the shutter release cable is a 2.5mm stereo plug and you will need at least 5 corresponding ports on the board; 4 for the cameras and 1 for the shutter remote. I didn't make the board, but it seems they are simply soldered in series to each other. Sorry I don't have more info on this. The attached photo may shed some light on how it's rigged.</p><p>Oh, make sure you leave enough space between the ports for the plugs. Even though I have more than enough ports on my board, they are too close together and I can only use every other one... the remote is plugged at the end (although it shouldn't matter what port it's connected to since they're all the same) and it bends the port outwards a bit.</p>
<p>Thanks! This is sort of what I had in mind when I was imagining it. Definitely something I can build.</p>
<p>A little above my price-range. If you want to start a business it's not all that much.</p><p>Thanks for the great writeup.</p>
<p>You're welcome. Might be possible to lower costs further if you have cameras already. Even different makes and models might not be a deal breaker. It's the cameras and the turntable that are the biggest purchases by far.</p>
Very cool
<p>Thanks, glad you enjoyed it.</p>
<p>kind of expensive</p>
<p>For home use certainly but if you're looking for professional results, you can make some money with this system.</p>
<p>UPDATE 11/6/14: Smart Shooter 3 is out now and it only supports a single camera. You will need Smart Shooter 3 Pro for multiple cameras and it costs $120. (I've been using Smart Shooter 2). The company is Kuvacode and you can purchase it at kuvacode.com.</p>
<p>And how much difference would it make if i use good cameras but not DSLRs?</p><p>Say few Canon powershot D10s...</p><p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Canon-PowerShot-D10-Waterproof-Stabilized/dp/B001SER460" rel="nofollow">http://www.amazon.com/Canon-PowerShot-D10-Waterpro...</a></p>
<p>You're probably not saving any money there unless you already have them or get them used. 12MP is right but I don't know how you set the zoom on those cameras, if there is any barrel distortion to the lens (especially if they are wide angle and for underwater use), or set manual focus. It's good to keep the same make and model for all 4 cameras, whatever you choose.</p>
Some People are going to Copy your Idea for a Multiple Uses like:HOV LANE PASSENGER,LONELY PEOPLE,CHEATERS LOL
<p>very impressive work and well explained! you could even build human size sculptures with this technique, no? A Rodin from the 21st century :)</p>
<p>Totally. The Thinker? As long as you have a large enough printer. I don't know any full color printers that large but maybe you could print it in parts?</p>
<p>This is incredible! Amazing instructable for sure! While it may seem expensive at first, most of your cost seems to be the turntable and the DSLRs. I'm sure you could duplicate these results by using 1 DSLR and automatically moving its position 4 times for each rotational position. Obviously the rotation would have to stop. This probably wouldn't work so well for live subjects because it could take so long but could be perfectly fine for inanimate objects with an automated process. You could probably reduce costs further by manually rotating a very simple spinning platform.</p><p>Either way, the final product looks lifelike and this instructable only helps to further progress in DIY scanning. Thanks for sharing!</p>
<p>Thanks! Yeah, this system was specifically designed to capture full body scans of people. It takes about 24-25 seconds for a full rotation and I only need about 20 seconds for shooting, since you don't want the same shot twice. It's hard enough to get someone to stay perfectly still for that long. There are other companies offering prints from full body scans but they don't come close to this kind of resolution.</p><p>If you look at the price of other full body scanning systems then this is easily 10x cheaper, but I think the price can be lowered even more if you're willing to go more DIY. I think a DIY turntable would work, the one I'm using doesn't even have any control over rpms. It's one set speed, just an on/off switch. Also, the cameras don't necessarily have to be DSLRs.</p>
<p>Wow! This is impressive. The finished model looks great. </p><p>Can you tell us more about this proprietary finishing method? That piqued my interest because it sounds so secretive! :)</p>
Thanks!<br><br>Ha! The method is a secret even from me, but I believe it's some sort of urethane that iMakr is using. I'll see if I can pull some info from them...<br><br>iMakr London uses a scanning booth with 60 DSLRs; same make and model as in my setup. I built my system for iMakr NY (which is in the Lower East Side in Manhattan) and I just use just 4 cameras to get the same (or better) results.<br><br>You can see their process from scan through printing here, which shows a little of their finishing process:<br>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HYvSDvnLKms

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Bio: Michael A. Parker is a 3D printing polyglot. Mike has a passion for creating and educating. He holds a M.S. in Digital Imaging and ... More »
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