After a little more research, I have managed to improve my Cardboard Aperture greatly!

This Instructable is based off of a project of mine to design a working aperture out of around-the-house materials. I had just seen an awesome set of Steampunk goggles by Gogglerman that had a very nice brass aperture in one eye. I set about trying to figure out how it had been made, and my resulting project went through two design iterations before I had anything working. I then posted that as my first Instructable.

So, instead of just editing my first Instructable, there's enough different to create a new one, which I have done. This time I'll be posting some instructions sheet downloads (in *.psd and *.pdn format for compatibility with your checkbook) and more pictures. Perhaps even a video!
 
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Step 1: Designing your Parts

While not really the hardest part of this build, designing the parts is a crucial one. I've attached some files that should really help you out. I mainly used a compass and a protractor to design the parts.

The first part is the holding and hinging ring. Since my aperture was designed for six 'arms' I set the hinge holes 60 degrees apart. If you want more arms then you'll need to reposition the hinge holes. Use this widget to calculate this angle if you are lazy like I am don't want to do the math yourself ;)

The next part (looking like a rib) is one of the actual arms that swings in and closes the aperture. Each one should encompass about 100 degrees. You'll see how the hinging and swinging pegs are attached later.

The last part here, the one shaped like the hinging ring but with notches instead of holes, is the adjuster ring. The notches will 'grab' the pins on the upper face of the arms, pulling or pushing them around the ring.

andiukas223 says: Feb 4, 2011. 2:48 AM
yeah mine kingda failed but looks cool o_O by the way its youre first design anyway thanks :)
IMAG0034.jpg
Sidneys1 (author) in reply to andiukas223Feb 4, 2011. 7:13 AM
Not bad, actually! What material did you use? Try out my new design, it will work much better :) Also, you have to make sure that each 'arm' overlaps the next arm. So that bottom-right arm in your picture should be over the bottom arm.
Like I've said, though, my old design doesn't work very well. I'd love to see my new design in this material though!

Have a nice day,
~Sidneys1
vanadium chrome says: Aug 22, 2011. 5:52 AM
Y'did a really good job
rawromg says: Feb 15, 2011. 12:28 PM
When I assemble it, the pegs just slip out of the groves inwards
Madmartigan95 in reply to rawromgAug 14, 2011. 6:25 PM
The same thing happened to me. I have no idea how to fix it... yet.
Sidneys1 (author) in reply to rawromgFeb 15, 2011. 1:06 PM
Then the arms must be too short.. Are you sure they're 100 degrees long?
rawromg in reply to Sidneys1Feb 15, 2011. 2:46 PM
I'm not sure, I printed out the PDF and cut it out on the same material you used.
monkeys98 says: Jul 26, 2011. 2:03 AM
im going to make one out of wood then metal
deyb1 says: Feb 4, 2011. 12:58 PM
Sorry, I just can't help myself...
I'm not even angry.
I'm being so sincere right now.
Even though you broke my heart.
And killed me.
And tore me to pieces.
And threw every piece into a fire.
As they burned it hurt because I was so happy for you!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6ljFaKRTrI
_Scratch_ in reply to deyb1Jun 14, 2011. 7:09 PM
Ahh portal = best game evar
CobaltBlue in reply to deyb1Mar 31, 2011. 5:08 AM
Thank you, deyb1, for providing the link explaining Dumchicken's somewhat obscure but brilliant reference.
Vick Jr in reply to deyb1Feb 13, 2011. 6:19 AM
I'm trying to use aluminum house-siding for the leafs. The Apature will be used as the housing for the evil robot eye of my evil robot turret. I'll post pics when it's done (could be a while)

...but look at me still talking when there's science to do.
deyb1 in reply to Vick JrFeb 13, 2011. 9:25 AM
That sounds better than a gun for the people who are still alive. And sounds like a good material to use as well, lightweight, yet strong. Good thinking on you!
mr.noris in reply to deyb1Feb 4, 2011. 5:24 PM
now theres no sence crying over every mistake we just keep on trying till we run out of cake
Mugabuga in reply to mr.norisFeb 6, 2011. 8:16 AM
So I'm glad I got burned, think of all the things we learned, for the people who are, still alive.
I saw this and didn't even think of cameras, I thought of Aperture Science.
tomas.savage in reply to MugabugaFeb 6, 2011. 2:35 PM
we do what we must because we can
for the good of all of us
except the ones who are dead
Handiest1 says: Jun 11, 2011. 6:07 PM
I am really happy to see this design. A few years ago I rehabbed a church into a house and it had a big round window that caused all kinds of glare. At that time, I failed at designing an aperture for that, and didn't want to take my camera apart to study. so I gave up. I was going to make it out of plywood, about 7-8' in diameter, and 12' off the floor, and control it with chains or something. Thanks for posting, I think it's a really neat/interesting item.
gadjetralahami says: May 28, 2011. 12:41 AM
its nice and cool.thanx 4 da idea
twonkie12 says: Mar 6, 2011. 2:14 PM
could you make them small and attach them together to make some really weird glasses
Sidneys1 (author) in reply to twonkie12Mar 7, 2011. 8:29 AM
Not quite sure what you mean.. Could you explain a little more?

Thanks, and have a nice day,
~Sidneys1
9mvp9 in reply to Sidneys1May 5, 2011. 7:58 AM
He means to make 2 of them and turn them into apeture glasses.
Sidneys1 (author) in reply to 9mvp9May 5, 2011. 8:49 AM
Ah.. 'Twould be hard, the parts are pretty small as it is. I want to get some brassworking tools though and make a metal set.

Have a nice day,
~Sidneys1
9mvp9 in reply to Sidneys1May 6, 2011. 7:14 AM
Metal aperture would be cool.
Anonyomus Duck Ninja says: Mar 28, 2011. 12:08 AM
Sweet! Making one now, will post when finished.
Dumchicken says: Mar 19, 2011. 6:46 PM
aperture sience doo doo doo doo doo doo ................................................................
....................................................................untill you make a neat gun for the people
who are still alive........................................................................................................
...................still alive still alive still alive still alive(fading sound)
dombeef says: Feb 19, 2011. 6:47 AM
You beat me to making an instructable. Mine was basically the same design but I made it out if foam core and credit cards.
I will make a slideshow about it later on.
Good job though!
D00M99 says: Feb 5, 2011. 4:09 PM
How do you make the arms? Can you post a plan for that? Or is there really no preference?
Sidneys1 (author) in reply to D00M99Feb 7, 2011. 7:05 AM
In my design plans there is a scale representation of the arms.

Have a nice day,
~Sidneys1
D00M99 in reply to Sidneys1Feb 12, 2011. 5:07 PM
On the plans I never saw a scale for the arms; I only saw it for the rotating ring and nothing else.
Sidneys1 (author) in reply to D00M99Feb 13, 2011. 7:35 AM
If you're using the psd or pdn files, the different parts are on seperate layers. If you don't want to mess with that, then download the PDF.
St Jimmy in reply to D00M99Feb 6, 2011. 6:39 PM
I think it's really just a section of a circle spanning 3 holes, slightly thinner than the holding ring itself
Sidneys1 (author) in reply to St JimmyFeb 7, 2011. 7:06 AM
More precisely, it spans about 100 degrees of the circle.

Have a nice day,
~Sidneys1
heathbar64 in reply to Sidneys1Dec 4, 2011. 4:45 PM
So how did you come up with 100 degrees? Just want to know the nitty gritty of how it was actually designed.
heathbar64 in reply to heathbar64Dec 4, 2011. 4:51 PM
And what are the notches for on the outer part of the adjusting ring?
Sidneys1 (author) in reply to heathbar64Dec 4, 2011. 5:48 PM
The notches were just there because I repurposed a part from an prototype that didn't work :)

As for 100 degrees, if I remember correctly it was so that when the arm arced around the center of the ring (closed position) it would reach the other side without being too long. Or it was because it needed to be over 90 degrees without being too long as to be unmanageable, I don't remember exactly lol. should have kept notes..
D00M99 says: Feb 4, 2011. 6:30 PM
It's really awesome looking and stuff, but what is it actually used for? Or more specifically, what CAN it be used for?
Sidneys1 (author) in reply to D00M99Feb 7, 2011. 7:04 AM
Well, in cameras it's used to control the aperture size. It can be used to control the amount of light coming through a window. And it looks cool and is relatively easy to make.

Have a nice day,
~Sidneys1
D00M99 in reply to Sidneys1Feb 12, 2011. 5:08 PM
I downscaled it and made it into a monocle. :)
Syncopator says: Feb 6, 2011. 1:16 PM
A very clever design, congratulations.

I should point out, however, that it isn't an aperture, it's a shutter or diaphragm.

The size of the hole is the aperture.
Sidneys1 (author) in reply to SyncopatorFeb 7, 2011. 1:31 PM
Thanks for the clarification! I'm not going to change it, though, since I think the term "Aperture" more readily describes the device to the passing member.

Plus it sounds cooler :)

Have a nice day,
~Sidneys1
Ratz in reply to Sidneys1Feb 9, 2011. 6:49 AM
If you are looking this up in a mechanical design book, you will find it under "Iris" -- you unfortunately don't see them often in design books though. :(
bowmaster says: Feb 6, 2011. 7:49 AM
Sweet, I'm one step closer to having aperture doors in my house.
Sidneys1 (author) in reply to bowmasterFeb 7, 2011. 1:33 PM
Nice :D I personally wanted to create a custom window shade with it. The device is, after all, designed with the purpose of limiting light passage.

Have a nice day,
~Sidneys1
bowmaster in reply to Sidneys1Feb 8, 2011. 1:54 PM
A window shade would be pretty cool too.
featheredfrog says: Feb 4, 2011. 11:44 AM
Wunnaful wunnaful!

I'll bet that Chicago Screws would function well as the pivots...
Sidneys1 (author) in reply to featheredfrogFeb 7, 2011. 1:32 PM
I've never heard of "Chicago Screws".. Would you mind posting a link or picture?

Thanks :)

Have a nice day,
~Sidneys1
featheredfrog in reply to Sidneys1Feb 7, 2011. 2:31 PM
Won't let me post a picture. http://media.midwayusa.com/productimages/medium/112/112545.jpg

They're cheap, and behave like rivets, except you can undo them.
Madrigorne says: Feb 7, 2011. 2:57 AM
Can you please save your plans as a PDF?

You can get very thin aluminum by cutting the ends off a pop can - and you can cut it with scissors - but BEWARE -- the aluminum is SHARP and you will probably need to leave an allowance at the edges to round them over or bend them over to keep your fingers intact.
You may also have to heat it with a torch or throw it into a campfire for awhile to make it soft enough to work with - though you may want it stiffer
Sidneys1 (author) in reply to MadrigorneFeb 7, 2011. 7:34 AM
Thanks for the feedback! I've added a downloadable PDF to step one.. Enjoy!

As for a pop can, no one in my household drinks the stuff, so I don't have any. Feel free to try it yourself though!

Have a nice day,
~Sidneys1
carlpogi_11 says: Feb 6, 2011. 10:29 PM
can we paint it or not???
Sidneys1 (author) in reply to carlpogi_11Feb 7, 2011. 7:11 AM
Sure! Just make sure that the paint won't make unnecessary friction. Post a picture when you're done! :)

Have a nice day,
~Sidneys1
astrong0 says: Feb 6, 2011. 11:21 PM
Ok I made my own one but I've got a question, does yours lay flat when it's totally "closed"? Or is it thicker than when it's open?
Sidneys1 (author) in reply to astrong0Feb 7, 2011. 7:10 AM
No, it does not. When fully closed it's almost an inch thick. I was hoping to shoot a small video that would show this, but I haven't had time yet.

Have a nice day,
~Sidneys1
redrooster424 says: Feb 6, 2011. 2:40 PM
Loving the GlaDos Portal referrences LOL, great project BTW. don't be discouraged if someone has an Ill opinion, innovation is what creates brilliance! keep up the great work!
Sidneys1 (author) in reply to redrooster424Feb 7, 2011. 7:09 AM
Thanks, and I'm loving the Portal references as well.. Great game :D

Have a nice day,
~Sidneys1
D00M99 says: Feb 5, 2011. 4:34 PM
I was looking at the site that Gogglerman posted for his apeture and I found this:

http://brassgoggles.co.uk/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=36041cd575cee7c4915924f1fe185ef1&topic=15364.0

I thought that design was really nice, so I was wondering if you could make it out of cardboard? Just a thought.
Sidneys1 (author) in reply to D00M99Feb 7, 2011. 7:07 AM
That is really cool! I'll take a go at it. Subscribe so you don't miss it when I post it!

Have a nice day,
~Sidneys1
destri says: Feb 4, 2011. 7:32 PM
I think you are missing the image of the diagonally slotted disk that closes the iris pieces all together. I saw it on your last version.
Sidneys1 (author) in reply to destriFeb 7, 2011. 7:04 AM
Actually, that part is no longer needed. It has been replaced by the disk with notches in it.

Have a nice day,
~Sidneys1
redrooster424 says: Feb 6, 2011. 2:41 PM
@cowscankill, that's a super name LOL, love it!
andiukas223 says: Feb 6, 2011. 1:44 AM
thanks i used something like foam cardboard its like plywood but bends easier
plasticpopcorn4 says: Feb 4, 2011. 2:32 AM
how did you figure out the size/ shape of the individual pieces?
Sidneys1 (author) in reply to plasticpopcorn4Feb 4, 2011. 7:21 AM
For the hinging ring I just used a compass to draw the ring. Then I used a protractor (you can use this widget to calculate the angles) and a mechanical pencil to add the hinge holes.

The arms were a little more difficult. For this I used the compass to create an entire ring with an inner diameter the same as the hinging ring, and an outer diameter just over half the width of the hinging ring. I then cut if out of paper and placed it over my hinging ring designs. I then swung it back and forth like it would in the final design, and marked off the point along its arc where I could put the pin so that the adjustor ring could push/pull it. Since this is a relation between arm length and ring diameter, the length (about 100 degrees) should be the same, no matter what size or how many arms your design has.

After that the adjustor ring was easy. I drew it up identically to the hinging ring, but instead of holes for every arm, I added notches for the pins to travel in.

Once you've built one, it's a lot easier to see what I'm talking about. There's a distinct relationship between the dimensions.

Have a nice day,
~Sidneys1
plasticpopcorn4 in reply to Sidneys1Feb 4, 2011. 5:02 PM
cool thanks :D
hellasman says: Feb 3, 2011. 11:30 PM
Brilliant Idea.Bravo.
Sidneys1 (author) in reply to hellasmanFeb 4, 2011. 7:21 AM
Thank you!

Have a nice day,
~Sidneys1
booger357 says: Feb 4, 2011. 3:14 AM
Very Cool project. I do have one question what are the notches on the outside of the adjuster ring for?
Sidneys1 (author) in reply to booger357Feb 4, 2011. 7:10 AM
That is because I resued the adjustor ring from my original aperture, which had the adjusting pins on the outside. They don't need to be on the new design, but I find they add something to grip on to when turning the adjustor ring.

Have a nice day,
~Sidneys1
cowscankill says: Feb 3, 2011. 3:47 PM
That's cool!
But let's say I use some 1mm aluminum to make this, will the pieces be able to overlap and still move? or will it get too tight?
Sidneys1 (author) in reply to cowscankillFeb 3, 2011. 7:48 PM
It will probably work, but I haven't tried it with anything other than cardboard. (both for reasons of price and availability of tools) I'd imagine it would work if you use a very thin metal in conjunction with somewhat loose hinges.

Have a nice day,
~Sidneys1
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