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Step 5Position, Glue and Cut Layers
The first of many layers!
For glue I used an interior-grade Elmer's Glue-All. This was a nice inexpensive glue ($13 a gallon) that setup quickly and never shifted once set. I used just under a gallon for the entire project.
I stretched the glue a bit by thinning it with water. This wasn't done to save money but to make the glue easier to work. By thinning the glue it grabbed better when positioning the pieces. A stencil brush made applying the glue easy. The best I can describe the change in consistency is the glue is initially the viscosity of room temperature honey, but is better thinned to something like a bottled syrup.
To set a piece apply a moderate layer of glue on two pieces on the previous layer. Apply to adjacent halves. Overlap the pieces as in brickwork. When placing the pieces the glue will grab better if the piece is moved around a tiny bit before final positioning. This action spreads the glue evenly.
I put weights on each layer after gluing. This is shown in some of the pictures. This may not have been necessary. I'm sure I got a slightly better bond, especially when some pieces didn't lay perfectly flat, but the thinned glue and small movement to spread the glue seemed to hold the pieces very securely. Not using weights would've saved a surprising amount of cumulative time and effort. A heavy 4 foot by 4 foot board could work as well as the multiple weights and would take less effort.
Once a full layer is setup and the pieces are secure perform a cut as on the first layer. Loosen and move the swing arm until its cutter pierces through the securely glued cardboard piece. Lock the swing arm in position and rotate the turntable through a full rotation, cutting off the overhanging scrap.
As stated in the previous step, make sure to leave at least 1/2 inch of cardboard overhanging the inner and outer cut lines for the smoothest cut. As the chair body builds the width of the pieces will have to increase slightly. As the rings get smaller remember to make a new template, or just eyeball a larger width to give the required overlap and angles.
Be sure to save a good amount of scrap to use for filler pieces and as stock for the rounded edge (step 9). The rounded edge uses 4 inch diameter cardboard disks cut in half. Smaller pieces of scrap can be thrown away without wasting too much material.
For glue I used an interior-grade Elmer's Glue-All. This was a nice inexpensive glue ($13 a gallon) that setup quickly and never shifted once set. I used just under a gallon for the entire project.
I stretched the glue a bit by thinning it with water. This wasn't done to save money but to make the glue easier to work. By thinning the glue it grabbed better when positioning the pieces. A stencil brush made applying the glue easy. The best I can describe the change in consistency is the glue is initially the viscosity of room temperature honey, but is better thinned to something like a bottled syrup.
To set a piece apply a moderate layer of glue on two pieces on the previous layer. Apply to adjacent halves. Overlap the pieces as in brickwork. When placing the pieces the glue will grab better if the piece is moved around a tiny bit before final positioning. This action spreads the glue evenly.
I put weights on each layer after gluing. This is shown in some of the pictures. This may not have been necessary. I'm sure I got a slightly better bond, especially when some pieces didn't lay perfectly flat, but the thinned glue and small movement to spread the glue seemed to hold the pieces very securely. Not using weights would've saved a surprising amount of cumulative time and effort. A heavy 4 foot by 4 foot board could work as well as the multiple weights and would take less effort.
Once a full layer is setup and the pieces are secure perform a cut as on the first layer. Loosen and move the swing arm until its cutter pierces through the securely glued cardboard piece. Lock the swing arm in position and rotate the turntable through a full rotation, cutting off the overhanging scrap.
As stated in the previous step, make sure to leave at least 1/2 inch of cardboard overhanging the inner and outer cut lines for the smoothest cut. As the chair body builds the width of the pieces will have to increase slightly. As the rings get smaller remember to make a new template, or just eyeball a larger width to give the required overlap and angles.
Be sure to save a good amount of scrap to use for filler pieces and as stock for the rounded edge (step 9). The rounded edge uses 4 inch diameter cardboard disks cut in half. Smaller pieces of scrap can be thrown away without wasting too much material.
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