Introduction: Care and Concealment of Medium Frame Revolvers and Autos
Hopefully everyone will appreciate the fact that a weapon is a tool, and only as good as it's user.
The end result of using these tools are just different than those of normal tools.
Example of a normal tool: I'll need to put my drill and bits back into the case after I finish assembling my deck.
Example of a weapon tool: Hmmm...after CQB practise, where do I conceal my CZ?
This Instructable has more to do with the care and concealment of the aforementioned tool than the tool itself. I will stress weapons safety throughout this Instructable. Please don't be gun stupid. I've known intelligent, normal humans that get all-of-a sudden stupid when they get a weapon in their hands. Never point weapons at people, and treat them with respect. Safeties ON!
Weapons don't kill people: people wielding weapons do that.
I do not accept any responsibility for your weapons handling skills, or lack thereof.
Step 1: Different Views
Once again, I apologize for the cave drawing in step 5; I hope its at least basically helpful.
Here is a view of the finished project, on an Ernie Hill Speed Leather belt. (Don't try quick draws with this holster until properly trained and experienced)
Step 2: Building a House for Your Weapon
As with most Instructables, a ready made product is oftentimes more expensive than we'd like. However, if you make a product yourself, there is the pride of workmanship involved, and knowing the fact that you saved a whack of cash.
This instructable will show you how to manufacture an inexpensive concealable holster for your gun...or wallet...or Altoids box...or whatever you like! Heres some of the things you'll need:
Lots of stiffened leather, 1/8 inch thick,and one piece 1/4 inch thick to these dimensions:
2 pieces 155mm x 165 mm form front and rear panel.
1 piece 155 mm x 160 mm to form rear panel.
1 piece 160 mm x 150 mm forms the belt loop (1/4 inch leather)
Step 3: Stuff You'll Need-1
An awl is excellent for pre-punching the holes you'll need for sewing the leather.
Step 4: Stuff You'll Need-2
Heavy duty scissors; a spool of strong thread; I used the inner kern from the inside of a length of paracord; a needle big enough to handle the paracord; a measuring device; sailmakers palm (a device used by sailmakers for pushing large needles through canvas and leather); a marlin spike for tightening stitches or poking holes; a multi-tool or pliers; a sturdy belt to hang it off of.
Step 5: The Plan:1
Let me apologize for the horrid photos first; I just couldn't get what I needed from a crappy 'Paint' program.
Also, instead of an awl, a leather punch is a handy thing; I marked off 1/4 inch between stitch holes and did all my hole-punching prior to starting.
Step 6: The Plan-2
After carefully cutting your pieces of leather, construct the top
and back panels.
Step 7: The Plan: 2
Here is a view of the back portion of the holster; note that I have double stitched and melted all frayed ends. The back panel can be made out of one piece of leather; I had a bag o' scraps, so I had to make-do piece it together. (I suggest building a pattern prior)
Step 8: The Plan-3
Refering back to the cave-drawing in step 5, you can now add your belt loop to the front panel.
Stitching is important here, as you want as few stitches doing as much work as possible.
Step 9: The Plan-4
Here is a pic of the side of the holster, showing it's construction.
Note the thickness and flexibility of the leather.
Step 10: The Product: View 1
Here is the finished project carrying a 9mm CZ75. I used this rig for 6 months during a U.N. tour to Croatia in 1993.(when the Masljenica Bridge was going down, and the Medak Pocket murders were perpetrated. Due to international pooch-screwing by the U.N., we came in afterwards as heavily armed body janitors)
I carried a 9 mm Browning Hi-Power, plus 2 extra mags, in addition to a C-7 (Canadianized M-16A2) with double front line load (about 400 rounds of 5.56 NATO). It gave me great comfort to have a concealed weapon at that time.
Our body armour was crap, with 2 pockets, and bayonets and field dressings taped all over it. Glad theres no pics of that.
This picture shows a CZ75 in the holster.
Step 11: The Product: View2
Mount the holstered weapon on a good sturdy belt; Ernie Hill Speed Leather belts are designed for holstered pistol carriage. Safety:
Stuffing a loaded 9mm or .45 down the front of your pants is Hollywood crap; there is huge potential to:
-drop the weapon (Tony Soprano, season 2, I think)
-lose it while climbing tall structures.(one of the guys in 'U.S. Marshalls'?)
-real potential for Nutectomy or worse; the average gunman can't fix a 9mm hole in their femoral artery.
As mentioned by ptmmatssc, retention of the weapon is not entirely proofed; it can be improved with the addition of a thumbstrap device.
Step 12: The Product: View3
S & W K-22 revolver also fits, to make a good plinking rig.
Note trigger locks.
Step 13: The Product: View 4
Holster Mounted on Ernies belt, while I try to hold it all in.
Spare mags are on left side of belt. Note how back panel will prevent grip rash. It took a bit of getting used to, but once broken in, was good to go.
I am not encouraging the carrying of concealed weapons; I am encouraging firearms safety training and proper use of your brain.
Step 14: Product View 5
You can also carry you wallet, knife, whatever in the holster.
Just be smart.