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// ENG //

A simple and nice PVC kayak cart to be towed with your bike.
I have a kayak, I don't have a car, and I didn't want any metal trailer that could be expensive, heavy and rusty. I checked around a little and was inspired by some folks. Finally I made my own design. There are great ideas out there, please search and take a look at different models before starting, you can always adjust the idea to your own needs.
Initially, I intended to do the simplest thing, but eventually I added a little bit of sophistication because I can' t help it!

The greatest of all, the ones I was inspired by:
1) Kayak Cart from kayakfisher66
2) [http://www.youtube.comwatch?v=IGSXOoHBpIk Milkcrate Kayak Cart Assembly from quocducnguyen]
3) Towing a kayak from virgkw

I hope you like it!

_

// SPA //

Un carrito simple, de PVC, para llevar el kayak con tu bici.
Tengo un kayak, no tengo auto, y no queria un trailer de metal que podria ser pesado, caro y se terminara oxidando. Estuve mirando un poco aqui y alla y fui inspirado por algunos ejemplos. Al final, termine haciendo mi propio disenho. Hay ideas geniales por ahi, te recomiendo buscar y mirar distintos modelos antes de empezar, siempre se puede ajustar la idea a tus propias necesidades!
Al principio, mi intencion era hacer el modelo mas simple, pero la final le termine agregando un poquito de sofisticacion, no lo pude evitar :p

Los mejores de todos, los que me inspiraron:
1) Kayak Cart, de kayakfisher66
2) Milkcrate Kayak Cart Assembly, de quocducnguyen
3) Towing a kayak, de virgkw

Espero que te guste!

Step 1: Materials // Materiales

// ENG //

The cart will be made from PVC tube. Mine is of 40mm diameter (the cheapest I found) but of course you can use whichever you think will do best (e.g. if you need to carry a rather heavy kayak, etc). I bought one 4m-long tube and that was more than enough.

I used the following PVC pieces:

A) two 'T' connections
B) eight '135 degrees' connections (they call it "45 degrees corner" here, I don't know why, the piece doesn't have a single 45 degree angle!)
C) two 'Y' connections (again, note that they are not really Y, since they are not symmetric!")
D) one '90 degrees corner' (here they are called 'elbows' :p )
E) two 'female-female' connections (I don't know the correct name..)
F) two plastic wheels (these are the cheapest I found, you could use stronger ones or any kind)
G) one 3/4" PVC tube (this one is a little more expensive since it's used for hot water, etc.)
H) two 3/4" to 1/2" adapters for G
I) one metal threaded rod (the diameter must be the right size to be used as the axis for the wheels) with it's nuts and washers.
J) one male-male 1/2" PVC tube (10cm long, or the shortest you can find, we'll only use the threads).

We will also need
one flask of glue for PVC
one small manual saw (or whatever you have at hand for cutting hard plastic)
a PVC thread-making device (don't know the technical name) for 3/4" tubes
Some good music to work...


// SPA //

El carrito se hara en tubo de PVC. El de mi ejemplo es de 40mm de diam. (el mas barato que encontre) pero por supuesto que vos podes usar el que creas conveniente (por ej. si necesitas llevar un kaya, pesado, etc). Yo compre un tramo de 4m de tubo y fue mas que suficiente.

Usamos las las siguiente piezas de PCV:

A) dos conexiones 'T'
B) ocho conexiones '135 grados' (aca las llaman "codos de 45 grados", no entiendo por que, si no tienen ningun angulo de 45 grados!, pero bueh...)
C) dos conexiones 'Y' (que tampoco son verdaderas Y porque no son simetricas, ver la foto)
D) una esquina 90 grados (o tambien llamada "codo de 90 grados")
E) dos conexiones hembra-hembra (no se bien el nombre correcto, creo que es 'cupla')
F) dos ruedas plasticas (estas son las mas baratas que encontre, pero se pueden usar otras segun las necesidades, hay de distintos tipos, inflables, etc.)
G) un tubo de PVC de 3/4" (estos son color marrron, un poquito mas caros porque son aptos para agua caliente, etc)
H) dos adaptadores de 3/4" a 1/2" para el tubo marron del pto G) (jejej)
I) una varilla roscada de metal (el diametro tiene que ser el necesario para que sirva como eje a las ruedas) con sus tuercas y arandelas.
J) un tubo de 10cm (o lo mas corto que encuentren) macho-macho (creo que el nombre es nipple o algo asi) del PVC de 1/2"

Tambien vamos a necesitar
un pote de pegamento para PVC
una pequenha sierra manual (o cualquier cosa que tengas a mano para cotar plastico duro)
una terraja para PVC de 3/4" (para hacer la rosca al canho de PVC, quizas la conocen con otros nombres como roscadora, etc.)
un poco de buena musica para trabajar...

Step 2: Assemblage // Armado

// ENG //

1) Horizontal tube: Cut a piece of PVC tube, taking care that when you put it together with the 135 corners, it will have the size that it's as wide as your kayak plus around 20 cm. The 20 cm are in case you want to put something to soften the contact between the kayak wall and the PVC cart.

2) Vertical tubes: Cut two pieces (the same length) of PVC tube for using as the lateral tubes. How long they sould be? At least 1.5 times the horizontal one of 1) the measure doesn't need to be very precise, just keep it "longer than the width" so the inside resemble a rectangle rather than a square.

3) Oblique tubes: Cut two pieces (the same length) of PVC tube for using as the "lateral-oblique" tubes. These will be in contact with te bottom of the kayak, and therefore will have the corresponding "V-shape". How long they should be? Look at the picture and use the same proportions. There is no problem if it is longer, but if you make then too short the wheels will be in an awkward position (almost ahead of the rest of the cart). But you can figure out with the picture.

Don't glue anything yet!


// SPA //

1) Tubo horizontal: corta un tramo de tubo de PVC, cuidando de que cuando lo pongas junto con los codos de 135, el ancho sea aproximadamente el ancho de tu kayak mas unos 20 cm. Estos 20 cm seran por si queres poner algo para amortiguar el contacto entre los costados del kayak y los canhos de PVC.

2) tubos verticales: corta dos tramos de PVC del mismo largo para usar como los tubos laterales. El largo de cada tubo debe ser aproximadamente 1.5 veces el largo del tubo horizontal. La medida no necesita ser demasiado exacta, pero en lo posible que el dibujo interior del armazon sea mas "largo que ancho", se parezca mas a un rectangulo que un cuadrado.

3) tubos oblicuos: cortar dos tramos del tubo de PVC del mismo largo para usar de "laterales oblicuos". Estos estaran en contacto con la parte de abajo del kayak, y por lo tanto tienen la correspondiente forma de "V". Para tener una idea del largo que deben tener, fijarse en la foto para seguir la proporcion. Si es muy largo no hay problema, pero si es demasiado corto, las ruedas del carrito van a quedar en una posicion incomoda, casi por delante del resto del carrito. Pero es facil de deducirlo viendo las fotos.

No hay que pegar nada todavia!

Step 3: Assemblage 2 // Armado 2

// ENG //

1) Put all the pieces we have up to now toghether in their final position
2) test that your kayak fit into the "little house"-shaped structure
3) glue it, so you have a picture like this (the silhouette of a small hose with two chimneys)


// SPA //

1) colocar las piezas (que tratamos hasta aqui) juntas en su posicion
2) chequear que tu kayak entre bien dentro de la estructura con forma de "casita"
3) pegar la estructura, de manera tal que quede como la foto (el contorno de una casita con dos chimeneas)

Step 4: Axis 1 // Eje 1

// ENG //

1) cut the 40mm-diameter PVC tube that will serve as the axis. The lenght will be given by the length of the previously cutted "horizontal tube" in step 2. Pleaste have in mind the two 'T's contributions to total lenght!
2) cut the 3/4" PVC tube, the length must be the same as the above (40mm PVC tube) plus about 8cm
3) use the thread-making tool to make threads on both sides of the 3/4" PVC tube, so you can screw the 3/4"-to-1/2" adapters in both ends of the tube

If you don't have this tool there is no need to buy one. You can ask someone in any PVC workshop to do it for you, it's only 2 threads, it can be done in 5 minutes and it's very simple. Have a look at the process here: http://www.plasticosdearg.com.ar/instalacion.htm


// SPA //

1) cortar el tubo de PVC (el de 40mm de diametro) que servira como el eje del carrito. El largo de este tramo de PVC estara dado por el largo del tramo del "tubo orizontal" que se corto previamente en el paso 2. Atencion, tambien hay que calcular la contribucion de las dos piezas "T" al largo total!!
2) cortar el tubo de PVC de 3/4". El largo tiene que ser el mismo que el tramo total del PVC de 40mm, mas unos 8cm.
3) hacer las roscas con la terraja en los dos extremos del tubo de PVC de 3/4", para poder luego enroscar los adaptadores de 3/4" a 1/2" en cada extremo.

Si no tenes una terraja no hace falta comprar una. Pedile a alguien en algun taller de plasticos que lo haga por vos (son solo 2 roscas y se hacen en unos minutos muy facilmente). Podes tener una idea del proceso en esta pagina: http://www.plasticosdearg.com.ar/instalacion.htm

Step 5: Axis 2 // Eje 2

// ENG //

1) screw the 3/4"-to-1/2" adapters into both ends of the 3/4" PVC tube.
2) take the short male-male 1/2" connector and screw it into one of the sides of the 3/4" axis
3) screw it all the way into it, and cut the rest.
4) take the 1/2" piece that is left (that has also its thread) and screw it into the other 3/4"-1/2" adapter all the way into it.
5) cut the rest.

Now you reduced the inside diameter of the axis (on both ends of the 3/4" PVC tube)


// SPA //

1) enroscar los adaptadores 3/4"-a-1/2" en ambos extremos del tubo PVC de 3/4".
2) agarrar el conector macho-macho (o "nipple") y enroscarlo en uno de los extremos del tubo (es decir en uno de los adaptadores 3/4"-1/2")
3) enroscarlo hasta el fondo y cortar lo que sobre
4) tomar el otro pedazo de 1/2" PVC que quedo (que tambien tiene rosca) y enroscarlo en el otro adaptador 3/4" a 1/2" que quedo libre en el otro extremo del

tubo de 3/4". Enroscarlo hasta el fondo
5) cortar lo que sobre.

Ahora hemos reducido el diametro interno del eje

Step 6: Axis 3 // Eje 3

// ENG //

1) take the 3/4" PVC axis and put it into the 40mm PVC as the picture shows. Press HARD, it HAS to get into it!!! (*)
2) take the T connectors one by one and put them into place. Press HARD, it HAS to get into it!!! (*)
3) glue the T connectors to the 40mm PVC axis.
4) cut two small "rings" of the 40mm PVC tube.. say 2.5 cm long. They don't need to be regular or nice, they will be hidden!
5) put and glue them into the axis ends as shown in the picture. These are just for securing and stabilizing the axis a little more.

(*) of course, please take into account the diameters of the tubes! In my case, the 3/4"-1/2" adapter fitted just tighltly into the 40mm tube, but it was

not impossible. However, you should have a look at your tubes and be sure that it can be done with the sizes you are using!


// SPA //

1) tomar el eje de PVC de 3/4" e insertarlo dentro del tubo de 40mm como muestra la foto. Presionar FUERTE, TIENE que entrar! (*)
2) tomar los dos "conectores T" uno por uno e insertarlos en el tubo de 40mm como muestra la foto. Presionar FUERTE, TIENE que entrar! (*)
3) pegar los conectores T al eje con el adhesivo para PVC
4) cortar dos pequenhos "aros" del tubo de PVC de 40mm. No hace falta que se vean prolijos o perfectamente iguales, estaran ocultos!
5) colocarlos y pegarlos en los extremos del eje, como muestra la figura. Estos son simplemente para asegurar y estabilizar el eje un poquito mas.

(*) Por supuesto, hay que fijarse muy bien los diametros de los tubos!! En mi caso, el adaptador 3/4"-1/2" entraba un poco ajustado dentro del tubo de 40mm,

pero se podia ingresar. Sin embargo, vos tenes que tener en cuenta los diametros que estes usando para tu kayak!

Step 7: Wheels // Ruedas

// ENG //

1) take the threaded metal rod and insert it into the PVC axis.
2) put the wheels, washers and nuts on. A washer at both sides of the wheel may reduce the friction when rotating, I guess.
3) cut the rest of the rod (you can use the small manual saw)
4) the axis+wheels are done


// SPA //

1) tomar la varilla roscada e insertarla dentro del eje de PVC
2) poner las ruedas con sus tuercas y arandelas. Una arandela a cada lado de la rueda puede reducir la friccion, supongo, lo cual es bueno.
3) cortar el tramo restante de la varilla (se puede usar la misma sierra manual que se uso para el PVC)
4) el eje+ruedas estan listos

Step 8: Complete Structure // Estructura Completa

// ENG //

1) take the "small house" structure and add the "legs" for the wheel+axis (only the legs, not the 135 degrees corner)
2) observe the estimated "height" of the cart and decide if you want it higher or lower. Cut the "legs" accordingly
2) put everything togheter ("small house" + "legs" + wheel with axis) and now you can glue it.
3) Leave it for some hours, depending on the instructions on your glue vendor.


// SPA //

1) agarrar la estructura con forma de "casita" y agregar los soportes ("patas") del eje
2) observar como va a quedar el carro y decidir si la altura es la que deseas. Cortar las "patas" de acuerdo a si lo queres mas alto o mas bajo.
3) armar todo junto ("casita" + "patas" + ruedas con eje) y pegar.
4) dejar secar por algunas horas (segun las recomendaciones del fabricante del pegamento para PVC)

Step 9: Finished Cart // Carrito Finalizado!

// ENG //

This is how mine looks like.
It can be easily transported and it's really light.
You can add some PVC-phoam (or something) to reduce vibrations or to soften the cart-kayak contact.
I will.

This is my first instructable, please tell me what you think and of course, it can be enormously improved!! the more comments and ideas, the better next version we can see!!

Cheers from Patagonia!!


// SPA //

Asi luce mi carrito
Puede ser facilmente transportable y es muy liviano.
Le podes agregar goma-espuma para amortiguar el contacto con el kayak y las vibraciones. Yo voy a hacer eso ahora.

Este es mi primer "Instructable", por favor expresen sus comentarios y por supuesto que puede ser enormemente mejorado! (por ejemplo ruedas desmontables, etc.). Cuantas mas ideas aportemos, mejor sera la proxima version que veamos!!

saludos desde la Patagonia!!

Step 10: Cart Handle and Accesories // "Agarre" Del Carrito Y Accesorios


// ENG //

OK, if you want to go further, see the these following

steps.

1) cart handle
2) rotating system
3) V-shaped resting system
4) safe-breaking tube
5) dismounting

1) cart handle
Now we'll make the handle so the kayak can be towed by hand

or by bike.

Take a piece of rope and make two "handle" knots and close the loop, as the photo shows. This will be put in the tip of your kayak (the tip that will be pointing ahead when being towed). The size and position of the two "handle knots" must be fixed.

Put the rope in the tip of your kayak and adjust accordingly. It has to be fixed rather near the tip.

"Oar locks"
You can use pieces of your long 40mm PVC tube to make a kind of "oar lock": take two pieces of tube (around 15cm is ok) and cut them linke the picture. Make a hole (the same diamter of the rope) and put the rope through the holes like the picture.

Hooks
You can use short piece of a bigger PVC tube to make two hooks for securing the rope to the kayak. Cut the big PVC tube in two, open them and make holes to both parts, as the picture shows. There are our hooks.


// SPA //

Bueno, si seguir un poco mas alla, veamos los pasos siguientes:

1) agarre para llevar el kayak
2) sistema rotativo
3) apoyo con forma de V
4) tubo para seguridad al frenar
5) desarme

1) agarre para llevar el kayak
Ahora vamos a hacer un sistema para sujetar el kayak de manera tal que lo puedas mover con tus propias manos o bien con tu bici.

Agarrar un pedazo de cuerda y hacer dos nudos tipo "asa", y cerrar la soga en sus extremos como muestra la foto. Esto se colocara en la punta del kayak (la que apunta hacia adelante cuando lo estes moviendo con el carrito). La forma y posicion de cada "asa" tiene que ser fija, es decir no las hagas ajustable sni "corredizas".

Presentar la soga en la punta del kayak y ajustar segun corresponda. Lo ideal es que quede mas bien cerca de la punta, no muy atras.

"Sujetadores" para los remos.
Podes usar pedazos que te hayan sobrado del tubo largo de PVC 40mm del carrito: cortar dos piezas del tubo (unos 15cm), y abrirlos a lo largo como muestra la figura. Luego hacerles un agujero (del diametro de la cuerda que vayas a usar) y pasar la cuerda por los agujeros como muestra la foto.

Ganchos
Podes usar un pedazo corto de un caño de PVC para hacer los ganchos que sujetaran el kayak al carrito. Cortar el tubo de PVC de mayor diametro y abrirlo como muestra la foto. Luego agujerear tanto el tubo como el trozo cortado y pasar la cuerda como muestra la foto. Ya estan los ganchos listos.

Step 11: Rotatingn System // Sistema Rotativo

// ENG //

2) rotating system

The first picture shows the position for towing the kayak with my bike (the tip of the kayak is only resting on the rear rack).
But if it was rigid, turning would be rather limited.
We can add a small device to give some more freedom to the bike+kayak system for turning when you drive your bike.

We will need two rectangular pieces. They must be very hard. In my case, I found a spare flat aluminum stick and cut in two equal pieces. Make some holes and get two bolts like the pictures show.

We will use another PVC 3/4"-1/2" adapter. Cut it on the 1/2" portion, to half of the diameter, as the picture shows. Cut again 5mm away so we can take out the piece that is left in between the two cuts. Make a small hole to take out that piece. Please be patient to take this piece away, believe me, the material is hard, so please take care of your safety!
Then, we need one more cut on this adapter. Cut just a piece, parallel to the previous cut, to get rid of the rounded contour. Seeing the pictures is easier than reading this!!

Now put the adapter under one of the (aluminum in my case) hard material piece and adjust the bolts as shown. You see now why we needed that the adapter has a "square" face? To prevent it's rotation. Take care that it is firmly attached to your rear rack. You must be capable to lift the bike from the ground, holding only the adaptor... I hope that's clear!

Take a 3/4" threaded PVC tube and screw it into the adapter. This tube will be the one which rotates and gives a little more of freedom of movement to de hole system. In my case, I found a spare piece of PVC and used it, but it is not necessary that it's all threaded like the picture.

This piece of 3/4" threaded PVC tube leads us to the "V-shaped resting place" for the tip of the kayak (next step).


// SPA //

2) sistema rotativo

La primera foto muestra la posición general para "tirar" del kayak con mi bici (la punta del kayak está simplemente apoyada en la parrilla trasera).
Pero si este sistema fuera rígido, sería muy difícil doblar en una esquina y los giros serían limitados.
Podemos agregar un pequeño artefacto para darle un poco mas de libertad para rotar al sistema bici+kayak.

Vamos a necesitar dos piezas duras y resistentes, planas. En mi caso, encontre tirada una pieza plana de aluminio, y la corte en dos partes. Hay que agujerearla como muestra la foto, y necesitaremos dos tornillos con sus tuercas.

Usaremos otro adaptador de 3/4" a 1/2". Hay que cortarlo (en la parte de 1/2") hasta la mitad del diametro, como muestra la foto. Volver a cortar 5mm separado para poder sacar el pedazo que queda en el medio de los dos cortes. Con una pequeña perforacion se puede sacar mas facil. Tengan paciencia para sacar este pedacito, creanme que este PVC es muy duro así que cuidado con la seguridad!.
Luego, necesitamos un corte mas en este adaptador. Cortar solo una partecita del contorno, paralela al corte previo, para evitar el contorno redondeado del adaptador. Es mas facil ver las fotos que tratar de entender este paso por escrito!

Ahora poner el adaptador recien cortado por debajo de una de las piezas (de aluminio en mi caso) planas. Ajustar los tornillos y tuercas. Ahora se evidencia para que queriamos evitar el contorno circular: esta pieza (el adaptador) no debe rotar, debe estar fija. Tener cuidado de que el adaptador quede muy firmemente ajustado a la parrilla trasera de la bici. Tiene que soportar todo el peso de la bici si intentamos levantarla tomando solo el adaptador.

Ahora tomaremos un pedazo del tubo de 3/4", con la rosca ya hecha. En mi caso, me habia sobrado un pedazo ya armado previamente, pero no hace falta que sea todo "roscado" como muestra la foto. Enroscar el pedazo de PVC roscado dentro del adaptador. Esta sera la pieza que efectivamente permitira el movimiento de rotacion cuando se este transportando el kayak, dando un poco mas de libertad de movimiento al sistema.

Este pedazo de PVC roscado nos lleva a el apoyo en forma de V (proximo paso).

Step 12: V-shaped Support System // Punto De Apoyo En "V"

// ENG //

3) V-shaped support system

Now we'll need a metallic rod. In my case, I found an old rusty one, but you can use one similar to what you used for the axis of the cart.

Measure the diameter of the rod (to find the right drill bit) and make two holes in the 3/4" threaded PVC tube like the pictures show.
Bend the rod and cut two pieces of "noodle" (polyethylene foam used for aquatic sports, etc., I got this one on a kids store) as the picture shows. Put the rod through the "noodles".

If you can't get one of these "noodles", you can use one or two simple hoses like the one you use to water the garden.

Screw the adapter cut in the previous step. Put all together on the rear rack.


// SPA //

3) Punto de apoyo en forma de "V"

Ahora necesitaremos una varilla metalica. En mi caso, encontre una vieja y un poco oxidada, pero tambien se puede usar una varilla igual a que se uso para armar el eje del carrito.

Medir el diametro de la varilla y con la broca correspondiente agujerear el pedazo roscado de PVC 3/4" como muestra la figura. Luego traspasar el tubo con la varilla y doblarla. Cortar dos pedazos de espuma de polietileno (utilizada generalmente como flotadores para deportes acuaticos, etc., la compre en una jugueteria) como muestra la figura. Atravesar los "flotadores" con la varilla metalica.

Si no puedes conseguir estos "flotadores", se puede usar una o dos capas de manguera comun como la que se usa para regar las plantas (aunque no quedara tan acolchonado por supuesto).

Enroscar el adaptador cortado en el paso anterior. Atornillar y fijar todo junto en la parrilla trasera de la bici, como muestra la foto.

Step 13: Safe-breaking Tube // Tubo De Seguridad En El Frenado


// ENG //

Now you can put the cart, the ropes (with the hooks and "oar locks") on the kayak. Adjust the rope on the tip of the kayak by using any adjustable rope or flat rope. The adjustable rope must hook the "handle" knows and the rope that has the "oar locks" and ends with the PVC-made hook. See the pictures.

4) safe-breaking tube

The first picture shows how the tip of kayak the kayak will be resting on the V-shape while being towed by your bike.

Now, what would happen if you suddenly stopped by emergency? It depends on your speed of course, but the tip of the kayak may injure your back. Therefore, a simple "safe breaking" device is a good idea.

Take one more piece of 3/4" PVC and put a rope like the pictures show (if you don't have the 90 degrees piece is OK, you can use only a straight tube and that's all).

The only thing you must keep in mind is that the PVC tube must hold the distance between your back (or bottom!) and the kayak when you stop your bike.

Knowing that, you can adjust the rope, the hitch (you can take it from your dog's collar), the distances, etc. In my case, the "stopping spot" is the back of the bike seat.

The reason of using the back of my seat is it's height: if I used a lower part, it will cause troubles when turning (try it!). If your seat is too low because your legs or bike setting, well, you need to figure out which "stopping spot" you will use (the point of contact between the PVC tube and you bike).


// SPA //

Ahora podemos poner el carrito, las cuerdas (con los ganchos y sujetadores para remos) en el kayak. Ajustar la cuerda de la punta del kayak utilizando cualquier cinta o cuerda ajustable. La cuerda ajustable debe pasar por las dos nudos en formas de "asas" y debe enganchar la cuerda que lleva los sujetadores del remo y termina en el gancho de PVC. Ver las fotos.

4) Tubo de seguridad en el frenado

La primera figura muestra como la punta del kayak estara apoyada sobre la parrilla, en la montura en forma de V, mientras es transportada por la bici.

Ahora, que pasaria en una emergencia, si tuvieramos que frenar repentinamente? Dependiendo de la velocidad, la punta del kayak podria golpear o herir tu espalda. Por lo tanto, seria una buena idea tener un sistemita simple de "frenado seguro".

Tomar otro pedazo de tubo de PVC de 3/4" y poner la cuerda a traves como muestran las fotos (si no tenes el codo 90 grados no hay problema, funciona igual con un tubo recto).

Lo importante que hay que tener en cuenta es que el tubo de PVC debe mantener la distancia entre tu espalda (o culo!) y la punta del kayak cuando tu bici se detenga bruscamente. Considerando eso, podes ajustar la soga, el gancho (lo podes sacar de la correa de tu perro), las distancias, etc. En mi caso, el punto de apoyo es la parte trasera del asiento.

La razón para usar la parte trasera del asiento es su altura: si apoyara el tubo de PVC en otro lado mas bajo, esto traeria problemas al momento de girar. Si tu asiento es mas bajo por tus piernas o por el cuadro de tu bici o lo que fuera, necesitaras encontrar un punto de apoyo seguro para evitar daños al momento de una frenada brusca.

Step 14: FINISHED // FINALIZADO

This is it.
I'll try to upload a video as soon as I can.


You should adjust this instructable to your kayak shape and, most important, weight.
You may also want to add a rope from the tip of the kayak to your seat post to secure the system when towing.

Every measurements will be based on your kayak and bike!

Enjoy!!!! Greetings from South America!!

And now give some water to your plans!! :)

Step 15: Dismounting // Desarme


// ENG //

5) dismounting

You can you can take almost everything apart and leave your bike as it was before using the kayak.


// SPA //

5) desarme

Puedes desarmar todo de manera tal que la bici quede tal como estaba antes de usar el kayak.
<p>is your kayak tied onto cart with lashes or bungees? How do you connect the kayak to the bike?</p>
<p>is your kayak tied onto cart with lashes or bungees? How do you connect the kayak to the bike?</p>
<p>Awesome instructable! This is going to be super helpful in the construction of my kayak trailer. Im working on making one from a walker. Hope to post pics when its finished</p>
great ible - i always thought of doing something simillar for a surfboard but then i got a car :P<br/><br/>i think its called a 45 degree angle because its bent 45 degrees from straight(180 - 135 = 45). if it were against a wall for example it would bend the pipe 45 from the wall <br/>
yes, I thought so (the 45 degrees issue), but still.. Anyway, it would take me forever to learn the "correct" names of all the magic stuff there is around there... Thanks for commenting!
and the y looks like a lowercase y?
Exactly, like these:<br>http://www.flexpvc.com/indexWyes.shtml<br><br>http://www.roapipeline.com/PICS%20WEB/12%20PVC%20&amp;%20CPVC/ROA%20Y%20DE%20PVC%20CED%2080%20W2.jpg<br><br>http://www.atozsupply.com/images/product_images/pvcwye.jpg<br>
oh, and I suggest having a T pointing downward, from the top part to keep the kayak from sliding out.
Yes but how about a bike cart for your kayak?
I always have that problem, I can't tow my bike in my kayak, I am forced to hold it over my head, and scream battlecries at passing boats so they don't run me over.
As this is an incredible 'able, I laughed soo hard on the previous comment!! Thanks I needed it been a bad day. Anyways I was thinking maybe instead of the small wheels you could possibly use air inflated ones? Other then that ingenious!!!!
It is hard to tell how long you kayak is from the pictures but I might have the answer to your problem. Take one of those fork-mount stand things that would normally be installed in the bed of a pickup truck and install it behind the opening you sit in. Then, take something similar to the wheel strap/cradle of any Thule/Yakima bike rack and mount it in the rear where your back tire rests. Sure you might be a little top-heavy, but at least you don't have to leave your bike around.
Would make for a great ible.
But really great job!
is there any way to adapt this to fit to a car trailer hitch?
I agree about the wheels, pneumatic would be better. Mostly, though, I'd like to see how it was hitched up to the bike. Photos of it in action would help.
I have updated the instructable now, tell me what you think!
Very good project! Excellently documented! I love how this Instructable is bilingual! Keep it up!
thanks :)
great project! i'd agree with alanv73 re: viewing it hitched to the bike.
yes sorry folks, now it is shown. Just one version, of course. The best of all is the one you adjust to your needs. What to you think of the hitching now?
Nice! And bilingual, too!
thanks for the first comment! Yes, I would like to see more bilingual instructables (although I understand that it takes twice as much time to do it... but you reach more than twice as much people!) Thanks for commenting!
Great idea! The only thing I'd suggest right off the bat is to replace the wheels with ones better able to handle high speed. You could salvage 12-20" wheels from a child's bike for this purpose.
sure, the wheels are not the best ones. I was about to buy the inflatable ones, but they are way more expensive and require maintenance... But of course, with a child's bike wheels, it has to be more "speed-resistant"! Thanks for the idea. Good luck!
Great. Do you have a profile photo of it attached to a bicycle?
soon, my friend!!
I suppose I could do something like this for my canoe. I have to lug it up and down a huge hill.
yes, you could. Just be sure to use tubes that are strong enough. For a canoe I don't think I would use the 40mm white PVC ones. Just go around your nearest workshop and see! Good luck!

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