Instructables
Picture of Carved drinking horn
2012-12-27 12.35.18.jpg
Every person eating tons of meat and drinking even more beer is either a dwarf or a viking. So what do all those people need? A drinking horn.

This instructables will cover all steps I did for my drinking horn. This includes some simple carving and metalwork and excludes the proces of preparing the horn for whatever usage you desire.

If I will make a standard for it in the future, the building process of that will be added here.
14-6-2013: The instructions for my socket are added.

Step 1: Materials

  • 1 cow horn (size as desired)
  • carving tools
  • polyurethane coating, don't just use a coating. Use something natural like bee wax.
  • Copper tube
  • Materials for socket, I used some forged metal curles I got from a friend.
 
Remove these adsRemove these ads by Signing Up
jm0907708 days ago

finally it becomes more a decoration issue, than a real drinking tool, wright?

RuudvandeLooij (author)  jm0907707 days ago

Yeah, you can say that. But I still use it approximately once a year.

emccoy1 year ago
Envirotex is a food safe epoxy that is used for this exact purpose. My horn is lined inside and out with it.
HerrS emccoy2 months ago

For drinking cold drinks and weaker alcohol you don't need to seal the insides. Just wash it. I have 4 drinking horns and none of them gives off a distinct horn flavor. I've used sand and poison (coca cola) to clean the inside, and then cured the horns over a night with Guinness beer.

naturalsam1 year ago
Where does one buy a cow horn?
ironsmiter1 year ago
Awesome job on the carving.
I can't believe you got such good results with THOSE knives!
I didn't even make it through 5 pumpkins last Halloween with my set and horn is much harder to carve.





For the epoxy coating, consider something like this? http://www.masterbond.com/properties/food-safe-adhesives-sealants-coatings-encapsulation-compounds
Wax works well for cold beverages(that's how almost all leather flasks are sealed) but not so well for a steaming horn of whatever, as the wax may very well melt.

Make the copper fit.
Remove it.
NOW solder it(using lead free solder, preferably silver solder)
Refit the copper(slip on from the bottom)
fix in place with your rivets.

Probably a better solution for the copper is, start with a thicker copper FOIL.
It's very soft, and easy to work with. Available from tool supply companies, or thinner stuff can be had in the stained glass department of your local hobby shop.
Rivets would be pure;y decorative in this case, but might still look good.
Once it's formed in place, the epoxy sealing material should provide adequate protection, and structure, to keep it from dislodging during use and cleaning, plus will protect it from the more corrosive liquids, like citrus juices, beer or soda.

Finally, a nice lead free pewter("Fine pewter" is around 99% tin, and 1% copper) could make a fairly nice top. there is a fairly good explanation(though no photos) here http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=8349.0
As long as the rim is thin enough, it will cool quickly enough to not scorch the horn.
Espcially appropriate, since vikings knew and used pewter regularly(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Fork-Viking-Pewter-detail.jpg)

RuudvandeLooij (author)  ironsmiter1 year ago
Thanks ironsmiter for the reply.

Like I said in the instructable, I won't try to coat my horn the correct way. Me and a friend are already thinking on how we could form plastic in such a way it will conceal the entire inside of the horn. We are now thinking on vacuum forming by using a vacuum cleaner and a heat gun. The only thing left is finding appropriate, free, plastic.

The copper I actually like, even with all the imperfections. So I don't like changing it. However you made me think. At the moment I'm searching for tin. Try to melt it and give the horn a proper tip. If this works and I like it I will probably remove the copper rim and replace it with tin. And when I'm really in the mood, i will even add a top.

So for now I'm focusing on making some vacuum formed inside. But when and if I start on a tin tip and rim I will definitely keep you informed.
I refer you to http://www.instructables.com/id/30-Second-Demonstration-of-the-CIR-Sand-Casting-Sy/ and http://www.instructables.com/id/Plastic-Soda-Bottle-Prosthesis/

The basic idea being you could use the first process to form the negative "buck" for the second process, and when you're done, you have a nice heatshrunk soda bottle form ready to line your horn.
Just trim off any excess plastic, and cover the edge with your metal trim.

Can't wait to see your results of take-two.

fyi, amazon.com is one source of tin. just checked, and it's about $20usd per pound.
Your horn turned out beautiful.
Thanks