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In this Ible I'll be showing you how to use regular ol' duct tape to duplicate an existing object, then create a 2-dimensional pattern from the duct tape duplicate. This may not be one of my more attractive Ibles, but the methods explained herein have infinite applications if you're a prop builder, costumer, or puppet maker. In fact, the woman who taught me this method worked for the Henson Co. for many years and said this was how they'd get patterns for "skinning" puppets after the forms had been carved out of foam.

This is a very budget friendly method for the following problems:

--I want to make a corset/costume, but I don't have a dress form.Just to give you an idea of the potential here, I've included a photo of a duct tape full body cast my friend, artist Deb Winslow, made in order to fit armor for a masquerade ball we attend.

--I want to re-upholster this prop, but I don't want to massacre the original to get a pattern.

--I have a cool object I want to duplicate, but I don't have the skills/ materials/ workspace to do casting and molding. Mold making putty works fine for small objects, as in my Glitter Grenade Soap Ible, but larger objects may be best served by this duct tape treatment.

I've used this process in my custom works many times and imagine it'll be helpful to a lot of you out there too!

Step 1: You Will Need....

The object you desire to duplicate or "skin" (cover). For my demo I've used a foam horn I got at an opera house costume sale. It's a simpler object i felt would demonstrate the method clearly. You can use this method on pretty much anything, from a cereal bowl to a piece of furniture to your own body!

Plastic Cling Wrap

Masking Tape

Duct tape

Scissors

Optional Materials if you're choosing to skin your existing object:

Pencil, Pen, or Sharpie

Straight Pins

Covering Material of choice (fabric, foam, paper, etc.)

Step 2: Protect

The first step is to wrap your object tightly in plastic cling wrap. This accomplishes two major things:

1) Protects the surface of your object-- The cling wrap barrier will ensure that any special finishes or paint on your object remain unharmed by the adhesive of the duct tape. This is especially important if your object is fuzzy!

2) Makes freeing the object easier --When it comes time to free the object from the duct tape duplicate, the cling wrap will ensure that it slips right out and does not stick to any fibers or textures on the original.

Start at one end of the object and wrap tightly to keep the plastic true to form.You don't want excess folds and bulges because that will distort your final result.

When your object is fully wrapped, use masking tape to secure the binding. The shape of my object lent itself to one simple spiral of tape down the form, and a second going in the opposite direction. Your object may call for a different approach. Use just enough to secure the cling wrap --no need to mummify the whole thing!

Step 3: Bind

Now it's time for the duct tape. For the sake of some visual interest, I'm using my Halloween duct tape from the 2014 Halloween Decor challenge.

Use scissors to cut duct tape into working segments. For an object this size, I worked with pieces 6-10 inches in length. Do Not work with pieces over 1ft long as they are more more likely to get away and stick to themselves, bunch up, etc.

Wrap your object. Work from one side to another to get full coverage with no gaps.

Let the tape wrap as it will. Forcing the tape to go up when it wants to go down usually results in folds, bumps, and bulges that will distort the form. Periodically squish or press the tape to be sure you're getting a tight fit.

For fine/ small areas, like the tip of this horn, you may wish to use smaller pieces or tape to keep those places from getting bulky.

When your object is entirely covered, run a few strips of tape perpendicular to your primary direction. This cross-hatching will add strength to your tape form.

Step 4: Tape Shell Removal

Find the back-center of your object, or where a seam will be least noticeable.

Work the tip of your scissors underneath the edge of the tape and cling wrap and cut a notch here. Be mindful of your original object and take care not to scrap the finish or accidentally trim off any fibers.

Using that notch as a starting point, slowly work your scissors up the imaginary back seam, cutting a straight line all the way up.

Your object will probably come free of the shell 1/2 to 3/4 of the way up. You can remove and set it aside to make any remaining cutting easier.

When you've finished, you will have your original object and a sturdy, hollow duplicate.These "shells" are great for costuming or prop making because you can make things like giant horns and have them weigh next to nothing.Simply tape your seam back up and apply a hardener like Bondo resin or air foam clay to turn your duplicate into a solid, useable, paintable object.

Step 5: Making a 2D Pattern

If your goal is to skin the existing object, as in the puppet example, you've got one step left.

Open up your tape shell and attempt to make it lay flat on a table top. You can't. The tape remembers the curves of your object and will buckle and bulge where those curves should be. A few well chosen cuts, essentially darts, will alleviate those buckles and give you a flat, traceable pattern that will sew/glue back into the 3-D object.

Try to press the tape shell flat. Identify where your major bulges and buckles are at. My most obvious one was the horn tip, which I snipped in half to create 2 mirror image pieces with would then lay flat.

My other major buckles were at the base. Be conservative with your cuts. Try 1 inch first. If your buckle remains, cut another inch inward.You only want to cut far in enough to allow the pattern to lay flat, but not so much you've created an overcomplicated pattern and extra reassembly work for yourself later.

Don't worry if your cuts aren't exactly symmetrical. Try your best to eyeball it, but you can correct this later on your skinning material. The green lines in the last photo show my darts.

Step 6: Demo Re-assmbly

Even though your object will differ from mine, I figured it'd be a good idea to follow this through and prove that your 2D duct tape pattern will result in a fitted 3-D piece. In my case, I've made a plush fleece covering for my bare foam horn.

Use straight pins to secure your duct tape pattern to your material, just as you would a regular sewing pattern. The cling wrap layer should still be intact and will protect your fabric (or other covering material).

Trace your pattern shape, including the darts. Here we clearly see my two base darts are a bit different. To correct this, I folded my fleece shape in half and cut along just one dart. Since my original object was symmetrical, I can be assured that doing this will not adversely affect my final product.

*If you're skinning with fabric, make sure to trace a proper amount of seam allowance based on the stretchiness of the fabric.

Pin and sew darts first, then pin and sew along the back-center seam. Invert so the form is right side out. The flat fabric object looked like a butcher knife.

When fitting your skin onto your object, try to line up your back seam with the location you imagined it. This mental guide will help everything fall right into place.

Step 7: DONE!

Now my object has a snug fleece skin. It's a perfect fit because it was patterned directly from the source!

Like I said, creating custom patterns and casts with tape has many applications. The object I chose for this Ible was intentionally simple so I could demonstrate the process in a concise way. Know that you can do some really intricate, amazing work with those same few steps! The puppets in the 3rd photo were built out of foam and then skinned using patterns made with this method.

Doing duct tape patterns based on my mannequin head helps me establish the proper head size and face proportions for my masks. I can cut up the patterns and try different things knowing that mistakes only cost the price of a roll of tape.

Store your patterns flat if you think you might use them again!

If you found this Ible handy, please consider sending a vote in the Duct Tape contest or Crafting 101!

I'm tempted to do my cat (in stages)...but i also enjoy having skin...
<p>Evil Ted Smith uses a similor method, he actually made a video with a horn too ! But he works with foam. Here's the link, you should check it out !</p><p>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUoWn3Q7cak</p>
<p>Nice instructable. I learned about this many years ago and since then have used duct tape to fashion cheap Halloween masks for my kids. The way I do it is to take a double layer of aluminum foil and press across my face, carefully pushing it in to follow all my contours, being very careful around the eyes, of course. It makes a nice mold of the face that isn't 100% perfect, but close enough. I remove the foil and then carefully start covering it with strips of duct tape, inside and out. I use a double layer of foil because one layer is too flimsy, and more than two layers is too rigid to be able to mold it properly. When enough duct tape has been added, it is very easy then to add other features like horns for a devil mask, or a long pointy chin and nose for a witch, etc. You can add yarn or something else for hair, and so on. The mask remains flexible too, which is good. I also make it with a bit of cap to go over the top of my head, about mid way. It helps the mask stay on better, although I also rig the mask with string to tie around the back of the head. The resulting masks look pretty convincing and scary. The neighborhood kids get pretty freaked out when they come to our house. I have found also, that using acrylic paint adheres well to the tape, just don't thin it out with water. Use horsehair for eyebrows, a beard, etc. Use your imagination. I'd like to try making a full body cast. That looks cool.</p>
I also have used the two layer foil pressed on mask technique , but covered it front and back with ripped up phone book pieces of paper soaked in thinned out wood glue.
You can buy heavier foils (for turkey roasting), which would likely allow you to use just one heavier duty layer. <br>Thanks for the tips.
<p>Thank you. That was clear and helpful.</p>
Great. I want to make a cover for vent pipes etc. I want them to look like boulders or oversized mushrooms. Your ideas can cover the pipe but how would you make the outside?
<p>To build outward you might want to do something like paper mache fake rocks with resin coating to keep them moisture proof. If you want to keep the structure light, build the bulk of the rocks formation with foam or paper wads then paper mache over the top of those.</p>
<p>I am sorry I am laughing SineadR2, but I am sure someone needed to read what you wrote to keep from killing someone.... great disclaimer !!</p>
Just a quick note from someone who uses these and deals with a less-than-intelligent group of people on a daily basis:<br>FOR GODS SAKE, IF YOU MOLD A REAL HUMAN FACE, LEAVE AIR HOLES. Straws work okay for nose holes (literally stick the straws up your nose and mold around them; you can cover the area with tape after removing the mask base). No, you cannot breathe under a layer of cello film. And NO, you cannot hold your breath that long, I don't care if your grandaddy WAS a Marine.<br>
<p>Have you a method for modeling flat surfaces, i.e., those that can't be wrapped? I have wooden dividers between panes in old-fashioned double hung windows and some sections of baseboards that have been parrot-ized -- chewed on by hookbills, large and small. I'd like to make a model that I can use over an amount of wood fill to make the shape right again so I can then paint over it and . . . . The house is old enough that I haven't been able to locate an identical replacement to use for what you call a 3-D model, which I could then cut in half. TYVM ps I especially like the model form. Will try that if/when I get back to playing seamstress . . . </p>
<p>If I understand the situation described, I believe you could do this method and rather than wrapping, you'd be pressing; you'd get more of a relief sculpture replica of the wooden piece than a 3D object. Another commenter mentioned heavy duty foil as the base instead of saran wrap, and that sounds perfect for your cause. Btw, my sympathies about the parrot chewing. I have a pacific parrotlet and he will often work his magic on clothing and jewelry, poking holes and biting rhinestones right out of their settings.</p>
<p>This is fantastic!! This makes my creative side just want to come out! Thanks so much for the share!</p>
<p>Thanks! Glad you enjoyed and hope to see you unleash some duct tape goodness in your next project!</p>
<p>Okay, this is incredible. I only have two questions: One, could I use this to custom-make gloves for myself? I have tiny, oddly shaped hands and no gloves fit me. Also, you mentioned using this to create a corset. How could I do these two things? </p>
<p>You can definitely do these things!</p><p>For the gloves, I'd suggest putting your hands in some latex gloves to protect them from the tape. If standard latex gloves are too loose (fingers too long, etc.) you could trim away the excess or bind it tight as you tape. Do allow a little slack so you'll be able to get your scissor tips under the edge of the tape when you're done binding. Use small pieces of tape to get nice definition between fingers. Have a friend help snip the cast off just enough for you to wiggle out. I'd suggest starting at along the outer edge of your hand and cutting all the way around until you have what looks like two hand prints. That'd be my approach if you feel duct tape is the way to go. There may well be a simpler glove pattern method there that just involves tracing your hand and calculating how much seam allowance to give per stretchiness of your fabric.</p><p>For the corset, again it's just like this Ible but with your own body! You could cling wrap your torso or (less sweaty option) wear a T shirt you don't mind cutting up underneath the tape. In either case, get a friend to help you wrap since this is awkward to do on yourself. Once you're wrapped you'd just draw on your chosen neckline shape with a sharpie --just like my friend did in the full body cast photo--and cut out your shape. This non-Ible tutorial does a nice job of showing how she got a beautiful multi-panel under bust corset from a duct tape pattern <a href="http://offbeatbride.com/2014/03/diy-corset-pattern" rel="nofollow">http://offbeatbride.com/2014/03/diy-corset-pattern</a></p>
<p>Could you use this for a face? if so, please make an instructable on that, cause i'm sure it's a lot different.</p>
<p>The mask example given above was made using sections of my own face. It isn't much different actually, except you may want to get a friend to help you and use smaller sections of tape. Just steer clear of your eyes and use cling wrap or another protective barrier over eyebrows and hair.</p>
<p>Wonderful and smart!... Got my votes!...</p>
<p>Thanks very much for the votes! </p>
<p>My first thought when I began to read was that this was interesting but... Then I awoke to the realization that this does apply to a lot of applications. I am impressed with this, so thanks for sharing.</p>
<p>Glad you ended up liking it. As I said in the intro, I'm totally aware this demo isn't a real eye catcher in itself, but the technique is gold. I learned it from an amazing pro and wanted to spread the word. Hope it proves handy to some of your endeavors!</p>
<p>Cool! This is very similar to those packing tape ghosts people make with saran wrap and clear packing tape. Duct tape I'd imagine would leave you with a much sturdier and durable final product. I'd love to see a combination of duct tape and clear tape that would create a model you could light up from the inside and control exactly which pieces would glow.</p>
<p>I'm unfamiliar with these tape ghosts you speak of, but that sounds pretty cool! If you used transparent tape you could make weird body part shaped lanterns with LEDS! * Note to self...remember that for Halloween.</p>
<p>Ohhh! I think you'll like this then! </p><p><a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Human-Tape-Sculpture/" rel="nofollow">https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Huma...</a></p><p><a href="http://boingboing.net/2014/10/03/howto-make-a-packing-tape-ghos.html" rel="nofollow">http://boingboing.net/2014/10/03/howto-make-a-pack...</a></p>
<p>Nice! If I ever get rich I want one of those blue-lit full sculptures in the center of my arty farty penthouse apt.</p>
<p>How did you do the one of your head without smothering yourself?</p>
<p>Ha! Oh no...that's a mannequin head in the picture. My neck isn't nearly so long and elegant. </p><p>You can, however, do sections of your head separately to get the patterning you need. So for a helmet, I can saran wrap the top of my head (best to put your hair in a swim cap for protection) and just tape wrap the cap area to get a circumference. For a mask project, I might do across the bridge of my nose to get a proper width. It just depends what your goals are.</p>
Oh OK thanks :) you did a great job on the instructable.
<p>What is the full body cast filled with? I've heard of lots of different fillers but yours almost looks like it's filled with foam.</p>
<p>That one is filled with pontoon foam, though I would say regular upholstery foam, wads of newspaper, or other packing material would also do just fine. It depends what you'll be doing with it. If you were just casting a piece of your body (say, a leg) you could also use that expandable crack-filler foam to make it nice and durable.</p>
I think I will use this when I build my skin and frame kayak. wonderful idea. lots and lots of potential uses. thank you for the ible.
<p>Sounds great! Maybe you'll make an Ible of that and I'll get to see it in action :)</p>
Great job Ashley. Great instructions. I've been thinking about doing something like this to help me with my Halloween costume.
<p>Thanks! I bet it'll help you out. I can't think of a time where I tried it and didn't get something I could use. Looking forward to seeing what you have in store for Halloween!</p>
<p>nicely done. + best spider tape i have ever seen. </p>
If you reinforced it with bondo or resin, it might even work as a casting form. Great idea for forms with surfaces resistant to copying!
<p>Totally! </p>
<p>Nice! I was ready to use plaster or quick setting spackle to make forms of my legs. That approach made me nervous, though I'm pretty sure there are safe methods to do that too. I want to make form fitting leg holders for stilts, and the proper shape is a great start. Using the proper materials could make the form itself part of the finished product. Thanks for post.</p>
<p>Absolutely! This will be easier to remove for certain, and no risk of irritating skin or yanking out leg hairs. If you end up going for it feel free to share an &quot;I did It&quot; photo here!</p>
Gorgeous tutorial! I can't even full begin to list all of the projects this will be a life saver on! Great work indeed!
<p>Thanks --glad to share it! I think a lot of cosplay people are aware of this method, but lately I've encountered puppet makers especially struggling with getting proper fabric fits on their projects. Hopefully putting this up on a site where all interests meet will help everyone kick some crafting butt!</p>

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Bio: I'm an animation director by day and Queen of the monsters by night. I picked up most of my costume and prop building skills ... More »
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