You pay the cable bill. You should decide what's on.
Fortunately, cats don't have thumbs, so it isn't that hard to make a cat resistant remote.
I wanted one that didn't require any extra attention or effort on my part, so it had to be enabled just by picking it up. When I first thought of this, It seemed much harder than it turned out to be.
Fist, I thought of putting power switches on each side of the remote. I had to reject this because a lot of remotes keep their programming in volatile memory.
Second I thought of putting an enabling switch on the side so that the keys couldn't be activated with just a paw on top. This was unworkable because the keys are on a matrix instead of each key being a separate input to the chip.
I gave up on the idea for a while and then suddenly it occurred to me "Duh! All you need to do is prevent the LED(s) form emitting. You're such a dope!"
What you are basically going to be doing is using a switch to open the current path through the LED(s) when the remote isn't being held by a human.
Materals cost: about 50 cents if you don't have a good scrounge box, nothing if you do.
Step 1: Gather Materials
Basic electronics (really basic).
Tools and materials
A micro-switch (preferably a normally closed but it is much easier to find an SPDT).
Basic soldering stuff.
A little bit of wire.
Some small screwdrivers.
A utility knife.
Step 2: Determine Physical Switch Placement.
Step 3: Open It.
Remove the batteries.
You have to find screws (if any) that are frequently hidden. Check in the battery compartment, under any stickers and feet.
If you are lucky it will easily open after removing the screws. This is not likely. You'll, probably, have to pry it open. Use a couple of small screw drivers and take your time.
Step 4: Determine Electronic Switch Placement.
Step 5: Solder in the Switch
Step 6: Mount the Switch
Use the hot glue to secure the switch in place. One thing about hot glue, it doesn't stick to anything, but it is good for squirting in a mechanical/friction fitting. Note the huge globs.
Step 7: Finish.
Once again, some regular schlub has to fix what the professional industrial designers failed to design correctly in the first place.