Picture of Cedar-Planked Platform Bed Frame
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Looking to maximize the space of your apartment?

A platform bed is an ideal way to gain storage and create a comfortable space.

Create a custom platform bed following the building basics show here for any room! This project can be completed over the weekend using tools and materials that costs less then most bed frames.

Questions & Comments are always welcome,

Best! Jeff

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Step 1: Tools and Materials

Picture of Tools and Materials
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Here are the suggested tools and materials for building your platform bed.


  • Four foot level
  • Hammer
  • Pry Bar
  • Circular Saw & Handsaw
  • Drill & Drill Bits
  • Screw Drivers
  • Tape Measure
  • Extension Cord
  • Carpenter's Square
  • Paint Brush (not shown)
  • Safety: Goggles/Ear Protection


  • 2x4s
  • 2x6s
  • 2x2s
  • 3" Screws and/or Nails (see note below)
  • 1-1/4" Drywall Screws
  • Cedar boards (bought from Habitat Restore)
  • Plywood or OSB
  • Paint (optional)
  • Electrical (optional) - see electrical step

Quantity: For this project I used (10) 2x4s, (3) 2x6s, (3) 2x2s, (2) 4x8 3/8" OSB, (1) box drywall screws, (1) box 3" wood screws, (1) gal paint.

Cost: All materials cost around $80 from HD/Lowes/Habitat. All tools cost under $120 and were purchased refurbished online or used off craigslist.

Fasteners: I recommend using all screws for the project. In the past I used primarily nails but always required a few screws. Depending on the boards used for the siding you may need to pre-drill and use smaller screws.

Step 2: Frame the Platform

Picture of Frame the Platform
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The photos show a mix of two steps: Framing & Securing

Determine the size f the platform based on the space available and requirements of your mattress.

  • I used 60"x80" for a queen mattress. Notice the corner is has a bump out where the building framed around plumbing risers.... to fit the irregular space I am adding the length of the bump out to the top piece of the frame (notice how it extends past the last 2x4)

Cut the long pieces to length allowing for the width of the two end pieces. The long pieces are 3" less then the overall length if you are working with 2x4s (dimensioned lumber) Secure each 2x4 connection with (2) screws.

  • (4) 2x4s cut to 77"
  • (2) 2x4s cut to 60" & 60" + bump out
zkamphaus9511 months ago

for what size bed?

boris40011 months ago
just an idea, but you could add LED mood lighting or similar built into your cedar framing, just for added coolness. Also, I would have built cubby holes into the sides of the cedar frames. it would mean more work, but it would provide handy storage for books/phone etc within easy reach. great instructable.
jessyratfink11 months ago

That's beautiful! I want this in my bedroom, for sure. The shelves around the bed have me dreaming of how many books, reading lights and cats I could handle all at once! :D

i agree with j.rat. ~ i already have plenty o' books & lights. now, i just have to go out & get meself some kitticats!

jprussack (author)  jessyratfink11 months ago

Thanks Jessy - you really produce!

Your makingjiggy.com website is very impressive!!

T3Diver11 months ago

Attention for the moisture in the matress!

Since every human transpirates during the sleep, the humidity in the mattress is an issue.

I would suggest you to drill a series of ventilation holes in closed the OSB / plywood surface! Instead you can also use single stripes of material and screw it with a little distance on. then you also get a little comfort by the material flexibility and you avoid the "laying-on-the-ground-feeling".

I do wish you lots of good nights and fun in your bed!

The platform doesn't require drilling holes. If you are sweating enough to require ventilation on the underside of a mattress, your bigger concern should be dehydration.

Using strips of wood as opposed to sheet stock posses other design considerations. The placement of the supporting 2x4s becomes more important because you do not want to create a ridge down the middle of a person's sleep area. Also slat beds require the slats to be spaced no more than 3" apart or the mattress' springs will not be properly supported. That many slats will cost at least three times as much as the sheet stock.

Slats also make it much more likely that the 2x4 supports will split unless they are supported from underneath by joist hangers or the such, since the sheet stock distributes downward force over a large area of framing, but slats would not. That's why you can put a piece of plywood over a 3' x 3' hole in the floor and walk on it, but you couldn't try doing that with 3/4" thick boards of any width.

dehydration could occur for sure .... excess perspiration may be preventable with a fan {works for me}.

not sure if i "transpire", but know what u mean. i have a twin platform bed, but no moisture prob. the mattress is a simmons BEAUTYREST with the individually wrapped coil springs. a bit expensive, but feels like new every night for 7 yrs; sometimes i flatten wrinkled things under it [brochures, etc]. no dampness ever!! recommend it for a platform .... it must be quite breathable :)

Naugas T3Diver11 months ago

Agree - ventilation from underneath is essential, really bad and yucky things (mold) can easily happen to a mattress otherwise. I can recommend the slatted bed base Luröy from IKEA, but it would be best to base the construction of the bed frame for using this system from the beginning.

Nice job. I like how you addressed your electrical needs without having to get into rewiring the household electrical. If you are renting, you landlord will greatly appreciate that.

jprussack (author)  underground carpenter11 months ago

Thanks UC! Also, I appreciate your fielding the moisture questions! Not sure where there came from but a great response!

I had a great landlord. At some point I need to type up an Instructable on the pass-though I was given permission to install between the kitchen and living space. Cheers!

tkjtkj11 months ago

Nice instructable .. and I'd strongly suggest you add some 'central support' pillars from the central stringers to the floor.

I use a great and similarly-designed bed for years .. Although when new it seemed structurally strong: end and side boards were 8" wide, and a central 4"x4" beam bore our weight nicely, in time that was not the case. After 4-5 yrs my 230 lbs of handsomeness caused a noticeable 'central sag' .. which grew to be over 3" .. requiring repair which included a central vertical support column. I'd make the 'floor end' of such pillars have a ? 6"x6" or larger plate so as not to damage a fine wood floor.

The more I think on it, adding a central 'pillar' to all longitudinal stringers would divide 'under-bed' storage into two units .. allowing drawers or wheeled-storage boxes to be more easily managed.

Just a thought (but a very good one!)

jprussack (author)  tkjtkj11 months ago

Great addition! Thanks for sharing!

It would be easy to add the additional supports, double up a 2x4 or even frame the platform out of 2x6s.

billbillt11 months ago

love it...double plus good....

BLR_RAVI11 months ago
very well done
lindarose9211 months ago

I totally love this! And it looks so cozy! What about upholstering the front sides to make it even cozier? :D

jprussack (author)  lindarose9211 months ago

Hi Linda - thanks for suggesting a way to make it cozier! The boards could easily be wrapped/stapled with fabric or used sheets! Love it :)

technovative11 months ago

Looks sturdy. I like the cedar panels, nice touch, aesthetically and aromatically.

jprussack (author)  technovative11 months ago

Thanks techno! Very sturdy and doubled as a solid workbench!

jprussack (author) 11 months ago

Thanks for viewing!!

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