In this instructable I will cover the design elements, construction, installation and maintenence of two raised planter boxes I built for my vegetable garden. The two boxes are identical, with the small exception of the vertical trelises on each one for growing vining species such as peas, watermelon, pumpkin and cucumber.
The dimensions of each planter are 4 feet by 8 feet by 11 3/4 inches deep. The specific width and length is important, as these planters were built in order to employ the "Square Foot Gardening" method, which is supposed to conserve space, water, seeds and effort. the 4 by 8 foot dimensions also allow the planters to be built with minimal material wastage using nominal sized lumber.
The planters are built out of redwood cedar lumber. Cedar is very expensive (materials cost about $130 per planter) but it is naturally resistant to rot, termites and damage from sunlight. It's also very beautiful wood and a pleasure to work with because it's so soft. As an added bonus, sawing and drilling cedar fills your workspace with a pleasing aroma.
I tried to provide enough detail on methods and techniques that anybody should be able to build these and do a professional looking job; even if you're a beginner.
Please read on to find out how you too can build these planters.
The dimensions of each planter are 4 feet by 8 feet by 11 3/4 inches deep. The specific width and length is important, as these planters were built in order to employ the "Square Foot Gardening" method, which is supposed to conserve space, water, seeds and effort. the 4 by 8 foot dimensions also allow the planters to be built with minimal material wastage using nominal sized lumber.
The planters are built out of redwood cedar lumber. Cedar is very expensive (materials cost about $130 per planter) but it is naturally resistant to rot, termites and damage from sunlight. It's also very beautiful wood and a pleasure to work with because it's so soft. As an added bonus, sawing and drilling cedar fills your workspace with a pleasing aroma.
I tried to provide enough detail on methods and techniques that anybody should be able to build these and do a professional looking job; even if you're a beginner.
Please read on to find out how you too can build these planters.
Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1: Some Notes About Choosing Materials
In order to build planter boxes identical to these you have three main options about which type of wood to use. Each of these types of materials have their advantages and disadvantages.
Standard Spruce/Pine/Fir Lumber:
This is just your standard everyday lumber that is untreated. This material is by far the cheapest way to build the planters (about 1/4 the price of cedar) but it will be vulnerable to rot, termites and damage from sunlight. Within a few months, the planters will turn an ugly grey color and may even warp and twist from exposure to sunlight. Even though they may be ugly, they will still remain strong and sturdy for many years, and you could always paint them to protect them from the elements.
Pressure Treated Lumber:
This is standard lumber that has been treated with special chemicals that prevent it from rotting. It's moderately expensive (about twice the price of SPF and half the price of cedar) but it's supposed to last for up to 25 years without rotting. The main downside to this material is that there is the widespread belief that the chemicals from the treated wood will leech into the soil and end up in your vegetables. I'm not sure if this is true but I will say that plant roots are supposed to have structures that prevent toxins from entering the plant, and I've been told about university studies that conclude that vegetables grown in pressure treated planters don't contain chemicals from the wood. You'll have to do the research and decide for yourself. However, pressure treated planters should definately be good for flowers and other things you're not going to eat.
Redwood Cedar:
This is by far the most expensive at about four times the price of SPF and twice the price of pressure treated. However you get the best of both worlds because you know that the wood isn't going to rot and you know that there's no nasty chemicals in your food. It's also the most visually pleasing option, and since my backyard is visible to most of the neighborhood, I decided on this option.
Standard Spruce/Pine/Fir Lumber:
This is just your standard everyday lumber that is untreated. This material is by far the cheapest way to build the planters (about 1/4 the price of cedar) but it will be vulnerable to rot, termites and damage from sunlight. Within a few months, the planters will turn an ugly grey color and may even warp and twist from exposure to sunlight. Even though they may be ugly, they will still remain strong and sturdy for many years, and you could always paint them to protect them from the elements.
Pressure Treated Lumber:
This is standard lumber that has been treated with special chemicals that prevent it from rotting. It's moderately expensive (about twice the price of SPF and half the price of cedar) but it's supposed to last for up to 25 years without rotting. The main downside to this material is that there is the widespread belief that the chemicals from the treated wood will leech into the soil and end up in your vegetables. I'm not sure if this is true but I will say that plant roots are supposed to have structures that prevent toxins from entering the plant, and I've been told about university studies that conclude that vegetables grown in pressure treated planters don't contain chemicals from the wood. You'll have to do the research and decide for yourself. However, pressure treated planters should definately be good for flowers and other things you're not going to eat.
Redwood Cedar:
This is by far the most expensive at about four times the price of SPF and twice the price of pressure treated. However you get the best of both worlds because you know that the wood isn't going to rot and you know that there's no nasty chemicals in your food. It's also the most visually pleasing option, and since my backyard is visible to most of the neighborhood, I decided on this option.
Visit Our Store »
Go Pro Today »
One question: did you consider using a mortise and tenon joint on the boards connecting to the posts? It would have saved having to guess about where the screws would go. It also negates the need for corner bracing.
Using your instructions for small beds, cross ties are not needed. Soil weighs about 78-81 pounds per cubic foot. You could use exterior bracing to avoid using ties in larger boxes. The only concern I have is in later years when someone uses a shovel to break up the soil and would go too deep and break the tie.
But those are just my observations from my own trial and errors of making raised beds. Your Instructable is polished and very attractive. Thank you!
I think the corner braces and center tie would hold up pretty good against the occasional poke with a shovel. Even if they broke, the corner braces aren't of much use after the bed is placed and filled and the center tie could be easily replaced.
Thanks for commenting. Your input is greatly appreciated.
Great Instructable!
Well written, excellent detail, clear photos (and lots of them) and a beautiful end-product.
The other advantage of 4' wide beds is that you can comfortably reach all of the bed without having ever to stand on the soil. I just had to do the first few repairs on my raised beds after 12 years of good service. Mine are of slightly thinner pressure-treated lumber and nowhere near as attractive as yours.