Photos and tips for installing a central vacuum system in an existing house.
After several months of research, I installed a central vacuum system in my house during many nights and weekends from December 2004 through January 2005. It was a big project, but well worth the effort. This instructable is intended to give an idea of the scope of the project.
Other instructables: Toastyboy contributed this excellent instructable on the same subject. http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Central-Vacuum/ Study and learn.
After several months of research, I installed a central vacuum system in my house during many nights and weekends from December 2004 through January 2005. It was a big project, but well worth the effort. This instructable is intended to give an idea of the scope of the project.
Other instructables: Toastyboy contributed this excellent instructable on the same subject. http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Central-Vacuum/ Study and learn.
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Why a central vac?
- Better cleaning; the exhaust air goes outdoors.
- Quiet: the noisiest part is not in your living space.
- Skills: Installing a central vac requires expert carpentry, plumbing, and electrical skills. You are part of an elite group.
- Retrofit: It is a major project to install in an existing house. Only the best can do it.
Why not?
- They come with a LONG hose: it is a pain to drag through the house. Ensure that the person who will use the system most often is willing to use it.
- Cost: It is pricey.
- Permanence: It is part of the house. If you move, you lose it.
Parts?
In the US, I found that central vacuum supplies are sold in two packages:
- The canister, long hose, power beater head, and an assortment of attachments (big brush, little brush, crevice device, etc), and
- The plastic piping, inlets, and fittings.
Recommend you shop around both online and at your local vacuum shop. My favorite canister, hose, etc, was only available online, and I got a fair deal on the plumbing supplies from my local shop.
Design?
Conceptually, the system is simple. Plastic piping in your walls carries debris from a long flexible hose to a big canister. The hard part of a retrofit is figuring out where to install the piping in your house. You must find relatively straight and unobstructed runs from the inlets to the canister. You must not cut structural timbers. You may have to move water pipes and existing electrical wires. And then you must match the length of your piping system and inlets against the capability of the power canister you choose. And you must pick a place for the power canister, far enough away to be quiet, close enough to maintain good suction, and reasonably accessible to empty the debris bucket. And you must do the electrical wiring safely, and to meet the local codes. Not simple. Recommend you read literature and design aids from all the manufacturers. You'll get the idea.
- Better cleaning; the exhaust air goes outdoors.
- Quiet: the noisiest part is not in your living space.
- Skills: Installing a central vac requires expert carpentry, plumbing, and electrical skills. You are part of an elite group.
- Retrofit: It is a major project to install in an existing house. Only the best can do it.
Why not?
- They come with a LONG hose: it is a pain to drag through the house. Ensure that the person who will use the system most often is willing to use it.
- Cost: It is pricey.
- Permanence: It is part of the house. If you move, you lose it.
Parts?
In the US, I found that central vacuum supplies are sold in two packages:
- The canister, long hose, power beater head, and an assortment of attachments (big brush, little brush, crevice device, etc), and
- The plastic piping, inlets, and fittings.
Recommend you shop around both online and at your local vacuum shop. My favorite canister, hose, etc, was only available online, and I got a fair deal on the plumbing supplies from my local shop.
Design?
Conceptually, the system is simple. Plastic piping in your walls carries debris from a long flexible hose to a big canister. The hard part of a retrofit is figuring out where to install the piping in your house. You must find relatively straight and unobstructed runs from the inlets to the canister. You must not cut structural timbers. You may have to move water pipes and existing electrical wires. And then you must match the length of your piping system and inlets against the capability of the power canister you choose. And you must pick a place for the power canister, far enough away to be quiet, close enough to maintain good suction, and reasonably accessible to empty the debris bucket. And you must do the electrical wiring safely, and to meet the local codes. Not simple. Recommend you read literature and design aids from all the manufacturers. You'll get the idea.
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how much do they cost? (minimum price for 1-2 person house)
Do they make a light weight hose and power head???
As for the turbine head over a power nozzle, that's not a good idea, cos 90% of the ones on the market sold as "to fit" items are useless things, the only one I'd say would be better than the power nozzle would be a TurboCat, which can keep pace with an electrically operated PN, but that said, the PN featured in this ible is probably one of the best available, as it's a Eureka PN presumably fitted with a VibraGroomerIII brushroll, which does an excellent job... :)
And you'd be hard pressed to find a DC powered PN, the only one I know of is a Miele battery-operated one (used on Miele models that have no PN facility), but they're not that good, so not recommended... :)
And the electrical system used in the cenral vac system is there for a good reason, cos it allows you to power a PN from a central point, AND it offers controls on the hose (to switch the vac on, and to switch the PN on or off), so the wiring is a good thing... :)