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This project came about, out of sheer necessity as I will explain shortly.

I have to say from the start though that, this is NOT as per say, how to do it yourself with step by step instructions and parts list (though I will do my best to list those parts that I had to purchase). but how I did it and possibly how you could also do it, following some of the basic steps I took, that is, if you need one of these and like me, can't afford to buy even a second hand one let alone new and *can* get hold of a suitable washing machine like the one I have used and are good at DIY as well as have some basic electrical and electronics understanding.

For those who do not know what centrifugal casting machine is, here are couple of web links with some basic information and pictures:

Basic design:

http://www.castcraft.com/centrif.htm

Good basic info:

http://www.novagum.com/en/centrifugal-casting

And if you have the wallet, here is a new one (in the UK)

http://www.tiranti.co.uk/EdgeImpactShop/subcategor...

Couple of Ebay listings of second hand ones:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CENTICAST-CASTING-MACHIN...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151739851253?_trksid=p2...

WARNING!!

When using electrical tools and equipment. always follow manufacturer's safety rules and advice.

And if you intend to dismantle a similar machine for customising purposes please seek professional help if you are unsure of anything to do with electricity and electronic circuitry.


Step 1: Inventory

Materials used:

  • Washing machine, (ebay)
  • 2 x aluminium disks (ebay) (10"x4mm) (most exoensive parts)
  • 2 x threaded rods 3ft x 10mm (local hardware store)
  • Speed control unit ebay (China)
  • AC filter (salvaged from the same machine)
  • Wood, plywood, perspex (local hardware store and various sources)
  • 6 x lock nuts (10mm) (ebay)
  • 35 x nuts (10mm) (local hardware store)
  • 3 x wing nuts (10mm optional) (local hardware store)
  • 1" x 12" aluminium flat bar x2 (ebay)
  • screws, bolts, PVA glue
  • Junction connector block (car boot)
  • Steel wire (3m dia x 3ft 3of) (ebay)

Tools used:

  • Electric drill,
  • Hand Saw
  • Screw drivers
  • Pliars
  • Hammer(s)
  • Dremel with various cutting and drilling bits
  • Wrench
  • vice
  • Tapered reamer

Step 2: Process Before

In my spare time I used to make and sell buckles from the Captain Jack Sparrow outfit and up until now, I have been casting those all by hand individually (That is another ible that will be published here soon) which is a very tedious and hard work because the resulting casts need lot of cleaning before they are ready.

Having a centrifugal casting machine will make this a much easier process and less time will be spent 'cleaning' each piece and when I say cleaning, I mean going over each cast with a file and other suitable tools to get rid of excess metal, sharp edges and imperfection which some times can take up to 2 hours for each piece.

Step 3: The Machine

'Kenny', (name given by the manufacturer of this washing machine) is a smaller size (to its larger cousins used in most homes) and is suitable for RV's, caravans and yachts and bought it off of ebay for £5 That was few years ago. The seller listed it as not working but when I plugged it in after bringing it home, it worked fine but the only problem I could find was that it was not draining the water out after the wash cycle. So decided to re-list it on ebay as I thought someone could make a better use of it than I and clearly indicated its fault and within a week it got sold for £20

However the buyer (who paid for it soon after the listing ended) never came to collect it and even after giving him additional 2 more months to have it picked up, it never happened and so I informed him that I had no other option but dispose of it as it was taking up space in my garden. He apologised and said that I could keep the £20 and apologised again for the inconvenience he caused.

Step 4: Dismantling Process

So, I got to work and began to take it apart and salvage parts that I wanted to keep and throw away the rest. The only thing that I eventually ended up throwing away was the outer casing because I had no storage space for it.

When its inners begun to reveal itself, I begun to see the possibility of converting the main mechanism into what I have been dying to get hold of for so many years now.

Not the first time I've taken apart a similar one of these so it was a straight forward unscrewing all the nuts n bolts
of the outer casing. Being careful not damage anything to get into inner parts.

Step 5: Removing, Measuring and Drilling the Drum Pulley.

Removing the drum pulley took a little bit effort as this machine sat outside in the garden for couple of years and really was surprised how good it still looked when I opened it up.

Once the pulley was out. it was time to find the centre from which I can mark six points to drill the holes. This also proved to be a challenge as there was already a large hole in its centre but luckily this plastic ring which also came from the machine, acted as a stencil in helping me to find those crucial points.

The next challenge, proved to be THE most difficult of the whole endeavour. The pulley turned out to be made of hardened steel and no matter what drill bit I have used (metal, masonary..) and no matter how many times I called out loudly ""Muaddib", could not even make dent.

Eventually found a drill bit that did make a dent with the help of copious amount of engine oil. Unfortunately that lone drill bit was only 3mm in diameter. The hole I wanted to open was at least 10mm and SIX of them.

The tapered reamer was very helpful in enlarging these holes but the toll it took on my right hand, would not recommend it to anyone.

Step 6: Cutting and Preparing the Thredded Rod

6 of these were cut and and a lock nut installed at the end of each.

Step 7: Measuring and Drilling the Aluminium Disks

These are 2 of 10inch x 4mm disks. They were also bought off ebay and were much easier to drill.

Step 8: Finding a Solution to an Unexpected Problem

The problem I have encounter after inserting the threaded rods was, because the drum pulley was convex from the middle and bulging from its centre outwards, it was making the rods slant outwards. To counter this, I thought of the need to pull them inwards towards the centre and to do that, I used steel wire rods that I already had from previous projects. Perhaps, it is not the best solution for this particular problem but it seemed to work and that's what mattered.

Step 9: Installing the Aluminium Disks

Installing these were probably one of the most exciting part of this whole project.

Step 10: Cutting, Preparing and Installing a Container Ring

The 'Ring' is what holds the two piece moulds between the two disks and unfortunately this was another difficult item to get hold of (due to its unusual size) so I had to improvise (even if I could find one, it would have been way too expensive). So my solution was to use two piece aluminium strips, bend them to two arcs and join them as seen in the above pictures. Bought these also off of ebay and one continuous piece would have been far too expensive then buying two shorter pieces so that's what I did.

The strips measured 16"x1"x 4mm

I probably could have come up with something better, but progress sometimes is lot slower than we expect.

Having said that, there is room for improvements and I am looking forward to seeing others doing this much better than I have so far.

Step 11: Motor Speed Control-Test

As you saw during dismantling process, the washing machine had its own, wires, connections, circuit board with its timings for different washes, but you would have to be an electronics genius to be able to modify and make use of its own board and dials. Unfortunately I am not one of those so the idea was to research, make or buy one of those speed control units.

In fact, this process took the longest as I wanted to make sure, I did not do anything to damage the motor as it would be very difficult to find a replacement and not to mention costly.

So the hunt begun. I first ordered one of those cheap Chinese units (No offence meant to Chinese people) but due to being too simple and not enough information on how to connect all the wires from the motor to it, I decided to research more. Unfortunately there aren't many (if any) videos on youtube or anywhere else where this is demonstrated clearly and how you could connect each of these wires.

I keep finding a *better looking* (but not being sure if it would do the job) motor speed control units on ebay and decided to order one. The unit I ordered did have some basic wiring diagram but still there were BIG questions in my head that needed answering before I could even begin to understand how to connect all the wires from the motor. Answers from the seller to my questions about this were, lets say, less then satisfactory.

I then came across this website where this guy had indeed created a unit that apparently does exactly what I was after but unfortunately it was bit too expensive for me.

I also have to add that there lots of circuit diagrams on the net about this control unit and probably I could have built one had I took the time to delve into it. But time was of the essence so I thought, better get one that was ready made.

I have to give credit to Keith J. Cockburn (of the above website) for the info I gained on the importance of using the mains 'Filter' in this project. I have to say that I do not fully understand the full technicalities of this filter but from I understand, it filters out any irregular surge in the AC current therefore protecting the motor as a result. If this is not correct, I would love to hear from those who are more knowledged than me.

Below is a short footage of the very 1st test I did with the speed control unit (and a spare motor from a normal size washing machine I salvaged) after I kinda figured out how to connect each of these wires.

Washing Machine Motor Speed test from Pirate Prince on Vimeo.

Testing a larger washing machine motor with the speed control box.

Step 12: Base Support and Stand

I decided to make a base for the machine to raise it to a level where I can work comfortably.

I had some spare wood so this is what I came up with.

Step 13: Top Cover and Feeder

In order to protect the motor and the belt from possible flying hot metal beads, it is necessary to built a barrier, a protection of some sort. So here is what I have done.

This process is still ongoing and more pictures and info will be updated soon.

Step 14: Organising and Securing the Cables/wires

Making sure that nothing is dangling about underneath the covering or get in the way of the running of the motor.

Step 15: Fixing the Wobble

When I did the first speed control test, I have noticed a bit of a wobble with the aluminium disks, specially the one on the top. This was due to unequal distance from the top of the drum pulley to the disks itself and we are talking about millimetre precision. After adjusting the height of the each of the disks from their contact/anchor point with the threaded rod, the problem was mostly fixed. However there was still an annoying rattling noise coming from the new construction. Upon close examination (see above pictures-'before'and 'after') the steel wire pulling in the threaded rods was the cause of it. So after securing those the problem was fixed.

Step 16: First Outdoors Test

From a washing machine to a Centrifugal casting machine. from Pirate Prince on Vimeo.

Born out of sheer necessity. This is a 'small factor' washing machine converted to a centrifugal casting machine.
Took several months with lots of trials and error to reach to this stage. This video demonstrates the first successful operation in open air environment. There are few more steps remaining before it is put to full use

<p>Wow, that is an insanely creative use of a washing machine! I love how you repurposed a common item to make a really specialized and useful piece of equipment.</p>
<p>Thank you very much!</p><p>Much appreciate your comments!</p>
<p>the only thing i would add is a splashguard for youreself </p><p>imagine missing the pourhole with the machine running and you standing next to it </p><p>dunno how heavy it all ends up but making the top part with a 8mm pin/ bolt through the bottom and fit it in the chuck of a cordless drill might make the setup a lot cheaper and simpler to make </p><p>all you need then is sumtin to clamp the drill intoo holding it vertically and crawl under it to set the speed using the drillswitch with a tiewrap</p><p>when you ready for the cast stick the batterie in wait till its up to speed and pour</p>
<p>Thank you for your comments.</p><p>Actually, there is one more part to this ible which has not been added yet as I am still in the process of constructing it. It is the cover for the spinning disks on top which also incorporates a metallic funnel which will make it easier to pour the hot metal and should there be any flying during the casting/spinning process, they'll get trapped by this cover. </p><p>Not sure I understand you other suggestion but you try it and see if it works.</p>
as long as the funnel isnt rotating you be fine , if it is rotating the stuff wil flow up instead of down<br>the other reply just simply means using a cordless drill instead of the washingmachine motor setup <br>so delete getting a washingmachine and do the rest <br>just add a 8mm spindle sticking out the bottom of the spinnerpart holding the mould and a holder for the drill <br><br>its just sumting that came to mind <br>i seen someone so a spinning cast on a discovery show (it was about people turning junk intoo sell able items for a fleemarket in new york forgot the name of the show )<br>he used tin and a rubber mould <br>he put that mould on a small rotating tabletop / potterywheel with a heavy piece of steel over the top to keep the halves together and spun it up holding the drill chuck against the table , he let it freewheel during the pour <br>worked fine
<p>Actually, I have found something better than the metallic funnel and neither would be be spinning. Originally I wanted to build one from scratch and started to collect all sorts of motors but when this fell into my lap, I thought why walk 500 miles when you can get a free ride! If ya know what I mean. </p>
<p>how about electro magnatising the bottom of the rotating funnel ?</p>
<p>you need a flux capasitator for that it would f.ck up earth gravity ........</p><p>or you just set the funnel over the hole and not rotate it </p>
<p>Absolutely terrifying test. Make sure you record all tests so that your next of kin will make money selling it to &quot;Faces of Death 52.&quot; Was it an illusion that the whole plate system was twisting under the drag? How will you balance with hot material inside?</p>
<p>I was more afraid of blowing up the motor from increased speed than what the footage captured, showing distorted rods. Sorry I am not familiar with &quot;FOD52&quot; thing.</p><p>Hot metal will enter/forced into two pieces of mould and will almost instantly solidify within seconds so there is no need to balance or fear anything.</p>
<p>I think it might have been an illusion. The bottom plate seemed to be dragging behind the top one, which I imagine is the opposite of what would happen, given that the bottom one is the driven plate. I would think that the top one would lag. Oh crap. I just rewatched the beginning. It's going in the opposite direction. It's not an illusion. Pirate Prince! For the love of God! Abort! Abort!</p>
<p>I knew someone would be confused by that!</p><p>Have you ever owned a traditional record player with speed adjustment dial?</p>
<p>I new about the backwards/forwards illusion, but the (apparent) crazy lean of the bolts was new to me. I was afraid the next post would be from your next of kin.</p>
<p>Ah yes! the crazy lean of the bolts was new to me as well. I wonder how they would look like if I turned the dial to all the way to the right to the MAX Speed! They probably go completely crazy and Really freak me out! </p><p>But I dare not blow up the motor, I have lot of work to do.</p>
<p>It <em>is</em> an illusion! Video cameras are &quot;progressive scan&quot; in that they scan from top to bottom. During the readout of a frame, the disk rotates slightly, producing the illusion of twisting. As for hazards, the worst one is failure and molten metal flying around. But this is easily fixed by putting a shroud around the rotating part.</p>
<p>Ah, thank the gods! That looked horrifying.</p>
<p>Thanks for the technical explanation.</p><p>There is one more part to this ible which has not been added yet as I am still in the process of constructing it. It is the cover for the spinning disks on top which also incorporates a metallic funnel which will make it easier to pour the hot metal and should there be any flying during the casting/spinning process, they'll get trapped by this cover.</p>
With a load of laundry, of course.
<p>:-)</p>
<p>Of course, what a silly question. (please take this in good spirit ted_ferguson)</p>
<p>How will centrifugal casting reduce the amount of time spent cleaning up your parts? Won't you still use the same 2 piece molds? It seems in my mind's eye that the extra force would drive more metal through the seams in the mold. I understand you will have less air pockets in the molds, and I have done some spin casting like this using plastics. </p>
<p>Yes, I still be using 2 parts moulds. The force of centrifugal force will push the hot metal into every nook and cranny therefore producing clean pieces, without defects or holes and therefore less time will be spent on cleaning each cast. The only clean up will be around the edges which are fairly easy to do. If you ever cast by hand as I illustrate in Step-2, you will understand better what I mean. The buckle cast in Step-2 is actually fairly clean but I have cast other more intricate pieces that had to be re-melt over and over.</p><p>When I finally start running this in production mode, I will add more steps to this ible to illustrate the results.</p>
<p>OK, I now understand your process. I was thinking of the large scale process for casting steel cylinders, say, 3 ft O.D. by 20 ft long. This is done by pouring molten steel inside the horizontal axis of a rotating shell mold. This way there is no need for an inside core piece, as the thickness of the &quot;tube&quot; can be adjusted by the rate of pour. The cast product can be used for pipeline sections, or when suitably machine finished, for heavy industrial press rolls to make e.g., paper or plastic sheets, boards, etc. Never too old to learn, eh?</p>
<p>Glad to hear you've learned something new by doing a research in regards to this ible. Those type of castings are for large industrial processes and the method is different. This one will use moulds to cast intricate pieces.</p>
<p>Hello, 'Prince, always good to hear from fellow &quot;tinkerers&quot; as were my father and brother before me. As you are obviously methodical, you are bound to succeed. Have studied and worked in engineering for 56 years, and repaired, modified, re-invented all sorts of devices including washing machines, cars, houses, down to palm-sized objects, where &quot;standard&quot; spares are not available . Very often, the trick is to find/recycle/re-use/adapt some discarded hardware. Believe the lovely slang term is &quot;bodging&quot; Cheers! - oj3</p>
<p>Pleasure to hear from a fellow 'thinkerer'.</p><p>Thank you for your comment Omar! Much appreciate it.</p><p>Cheers!</p>
<p>&quot;Tell me of your Whirlpool, Usul.&quot;</p><p>Nicely done by the way, just had to comment on the Dune reference though...</p>
<p>Ah! ah!......Mua_ dib, I think you are Freemen, not Harkonen </p>
<p>:-)</p>
<p>I am all smiles :-D</p><p>Thank you!</p>
Such an amazing device, and such simple instructions! I am in love with this concept! Thanks a lot!
<p>You are most welcome!</p>
<p>Really nice project :)</p><p>By the way, the AC filter stage is (probably) power factor correction. This is used a lot when rectifying high currents - another example of power factor correction is in a computer's PSU. Efficiency is very important when using large amounts of power. Power factor correction lines up the current waveform with the voltage waveform, and is measured from one (perfect lineup, highest efficiency) to -1 (completely out of phase). </p><p>Here's a wikipedia link for you: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_factor</p>
<p>Thank you very much for this explanation as well as the Wiki link.</p><p>It's still beyond me but glad that someone with better knowledge than me offered a better explanation.</p>
<p>As a fellow artist and Inventor-out-of-sheer-necessity, I can understand your plight. This is a beautiful project, that combines equal part ingenuity and determination. Good luck on your endeavors! </p>
<p>Thank you very much!</p><p>Much appreciate it!</p>
<p>Very nice! I was just working on a different project with a washer when this landed in my email. <br><br>My back-of-the-envelope estimate is that a home unit, at full speed, can generate 400 to 600 g's of centrifugal force at the drum surface.<br><br>Way too much for my plan, but looks good if someone needs those sort of numbers.</p>
<p>Thank you for your comment!</p><p>I doubt I will ever need the max G's this machine provide but I will experiment and make a note of the optimal speed required for the best results I am after.</p>
<p>I appreciated this Instructable just for the links to what Centrifugal Casting is. I cast parts for special effects, so I have no real need of one. However, knowing what it is will really help if I ever do.</p>
<p>You are Welcome! I appreciate your comment.</p>
<p>Nice job, that is the &quot;means of production&quot;, however, would like to see what &quot;end product&quot; you made before, as you are trying to make now. Just a still shot - not the actual casting operation. Best I've done is to make &quot;styrofoam&quot; pieces with homemade moulds injected with canned house insulating foam.</p>
<p>A sample of 'end product' can be seen in Step-2</p><p>The buckle in that step is made of pewter. And that is what I will primarily use with this machine. </p>
I have centrifugal casting machines, both electric and spring. I like your electric much better. However, I don't follow how and where your crucible will pour. Where do your flasks reside?
<p>Thank you for interest and comment</p><p>You are quite right. That part is not clear as I have not finished the top protective section yet where I will incorporate a metallic funnel through which I will pour the hot metal. Will update the ible soon as that is done.</p><p>But I am not sure what you mean by &quot;flasks&quot;</p>
<p>Muito bom, excelente instructable.</p><p>Obrigado por compartilhar.</p>
<p>You are most Welcome!</p><p>Thank you for the compliment!</p>
<p>Nice reuse of materials.</p>
<p>Thank You Jason! :)</p>
Great instructable, lots of pictures, nicely explained
<p>Thank You GoranR!</p>

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Bio: I worked in the motion picture & animation industry for over 15 years both here in the UK and USA. I like to think myself as ... More »
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