I’ve always loved the texturing of old utility poles.  They’re a ubiquitous sight in the city and no two look alike.  Some are cracked and weathered from the sun and rain; some are charred; some have creosote and chemicals leeching out.  I wanted to recreate each variation in a ceramic tile wall mosaic that could be displayed indoors.

Materials List:

rolling pin
wooden sticks
basic clay tools (slab wire, needle tool, sponge)
spray shellac
hot glue
utility knife
paint brush
spray mold release
RTV rubber
5/8in drywall
wet saw
caulking gun
1/2in plywood
acrylic paint

Step 1: Roll a Slab of Clay

Using a rolling pin, roll a chunk of wet clay into a slab.  I’m using a basic ceramic clay (EM-210) because it’s easy to work with and cheap.  Wood sticks (1/2in thick) placed on either side will ensure an even thickness.  Heavy canvas placed underneath will prevent the clay from sticking to the table.
<p>I take a lot of different impressions with clay and found that laying a piece of tissue paper on the clay slab just before taking the impression prevents the clay sticking to the wood, concrete, whatever. Paper mostly peels right off afterwards. </p>
<p>How much did you spend (aside from the tools)?</p>
Most excellent! I can imagine there must have been quite a bit of trial and error for you in the process of learning how to get it right, my hat is off to you!!! Love all that texture and color!
This is beautiful. You only show making one mold, but from the look of the variety in the finished product, it looks like you made several molds. How many different ones did you use?
I think I had maybe seven or eight molds. With all the color variations, you can get away with using the same casting and it won't be readily noticable when they're mixed together.
When you write in step 3 &quot;Spray the slab with shellac and let dry. Spray mold release agent into all surfaces of the entire tray, and place on a level table. Mix RTV rubber and pour slowly into pan, starting in the corner. Fill to 1/4in+ above the tile.&quot; 1. Are you spraying the wet or dry clay with shellac? <br>2. Why Shellac? Are you trying to make the foamcore water tight? Can you use polyurethane or does it have to be shellac. <br>3. At this point is the clay still on the drywall that you trimmed to size and did you trim the clay to the size of the drywall or the drywall to the size of the clay? <br>4. So is the wet or dry clay on a piece of drywall inside the foam core box? <br>5. At what point do you spray on mold release - after the clay is dry, the shellac is dry? <br>6. Do you really only spray the mold release in the box or do you spray it on the clay that is or is not on a piece of drywall? <br>7. Your drywall looks like it is covered with tape or something. My drywall leaves a powdery plaster dust on everything it touches, if I trimmed the clay on the drywall it would get plaster dust in the clay which I am told will make the clay blow up in the kiln. It would be even worse if I trimmed the drywall while the clay was on top of it. <br>Sorry for the questions but I think there is a picture or two or a step missing and I am trying to follow it. Thank you.
Thanks for your questions. Here's some clarification: <br> <br>1. Shellac is sprayed directly on the wet clay. The shellac will dry even though the clay underneath is still very wet (like magic). <br> <br>2. I haven't tested other products, but shellac produces great results every time, and it dries extremely fast. Most materials have to be sealed prior to applying mold release, otherwise the RTV rubber will stick. <br> <br>3. You can cut your tiles to match the size of your drywall, or vice-versa. In any case, you'll want to make the drywall a bit larger than the tiles to allow for airflow, and to make it easier on yourself when you work with floppy wet clay. <br> <br>4. The entire box is sealed foamcore. <br> <br>5. Mold release gets sprayed after the shellac is dry -- clay will still be very wet. <br> <br>6. Mold release gets sprayed on every part that the RTV rubber will touch (clay and box). Under the clay is not necessary. <br> <br>7. Yes, drywall edges get taped.
In question #4, I know the box is sealed foam core, but is the clay still sitting on the drywall while sitting inside the box? Thank you.
The clay is carefully lifted off the drywall and placed into the sealed box. I suppose you could construct the box walls directly on the drywall itself, but keep in mind that the drywall is actively wicking moisture from the clay, shrinking it as the hours go by. Makes the process more time-sensitive.
I agree with woodNfish, this is a very well done Instructable. Being both a potter and a lover of old worn surfaces that show a character all their own, this one is right in my aesthetic wheelhouse. I like the ideas you used to master from the subject with clay, make a rubber mold and then a plaster mold for durability in use. You still have the rubber mold to make another plaster mold as it starts to wear out or loses absorption. Good project, John. Putting the color on the plaster mold was a recent article in Ceramics Monthly, so you are also cutting edge.
I appreciate the feedback. Backpainting the molds is a bit tricky, but the results are worth the effort.
This is a really good instructable John. Thank you. While I am not interested in making a tile mural you taught me a number of things; mold making with rubber, using shellac to seal the mold, how to make and use plaster casts for texturing clay, using a tile saw to cut fired clay (Duh!), and silkaflex instead of liquid nails. All useful stuff.
That's radical. That would be an awesome accent piece to replace the tiling/glass on my coffee table. Or maybe a backsplash to the bathroom? Or backyard garden tiles? THE POSSIBILITIES ARE ENDLESS!
Wow, that looks gorgeous!

About This Instructable




Bio: John is a San Francisco-based sculptor specializing in creating geometric, tactile wall installations.
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