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Chainsaw Mill part 1

Chainsaw Mill part 1
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Many times a project calls for materials of specific dimensions and quality that can't be obtained, financially or logistically. A chainsaw mill is a tool that can be utilized to produce beams for timber framing or to cut slabs for wood working. Being mobile, it can be on site or right where the tree falls. This instructable shows how to construct a 20 in bar , variable height chainsaw mill.

There is an update  in the mill post section.  The post clamps now have bolt pins to secure the mill to the bar.

There are details in the pictures so mouse over the yellow image notes to get a clearer explanation.
 
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Step 1Measure & Cut

Measure & Cut
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(This is for a 20 in bar) Accounting for the width of the square stock, the diameter of the largest tree that is able to be milled is 14.5 in.

Materials:

Posts:
(4) 8 in square stock
(2) 12 in pipe
(1) 3 in wide by 8 in long sheet steel
(4) 2 by .75 by .25 in bar stock
(4) 4 in bolt, (4) nuts, (8) washers , (4) lock washers

Guide bed:
(2) 9 in square stock
(2) 14.5 in square stock
(1) 6.6 in square stock
(1) 5 in pipe
(1) 1.25 in square stock
(1) 2.5 in square stock
(2) .5 in nut and bolt

Note:
Square stock is (1.25 by 1.25 in) 
Pipe is (1 in) outer diameter

Tools:
MIG welder
Vice grips
Grinder
Chop saw
Drill press and drill bits
Ruler and wax pencil

Safety:
Goggles
Gloves
Ear plugs
Clothing to cover entire body (closed toe shoes)
Welding jacket
Welding mask



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68 comments
1-40 of 68next »
Jan 3, 2011. 5:13 PMHoldOnTight says:
Awesome 'ible!! I would like to see this in action. I can't wait for the video!!!

If you have a 20" bar in this trusty mill, and you need to cut only the outer sides to make a square beam, how large would the beam be, and how large can the tree diameter be at the large end?

Adding a wedge seems like a good idea to me. That Stihl will last if you don't abuse it. A wedge and manual chain oiling should do the trick. Oil will help cool the chain. The devil will be in the details, but with some practice, I'm sure you'll have lots of tips for our hands-on, knowledge-thirsty souls..
Oh, and buying a warranty for that beautiful saw might not be a bad idea too, just in case!!! ;o))
Feb 28, 2011. 1:18 PMHubertF says:
I really like the design. Thank you for solving my problem of milling the two 34"wide dead walnut trees i have to down .although there is a lumber-mill up the road,they services are not cheep.
Jan 28, 2011. 8:59 PMocadena says:
The part I don't get is how is the chain bar is kept from contacting the frame. All I can make out is the tongue and base fit in a slot. Did you bolt it secure some how? The more I look at the pictures the less it makes sense. The slider with the use of the 2X4 is a great idea.
Jan 25, 2011. 9:19 PMProfMuggs says:
Have you tried quarter sawing lumber with your mill? I have read that it makes the wood more stable and less prone to warping.
Jan 14, 2011. 8:20 PMrustytoy says:
I have done this myself and it was a lot of fun. Took down a redwood tree in my front yard and milled it into fence boards and picknick table and such. It was a lot of work but I will be moving onto drift wood next, from the river.
Jan 9, 2011. 10:40 AMkleinjahr says:
Nice, saved that.
Here's a site for a bigger version
http://www.procutportablesawmills.com/index.html
It is a commercial site, but they have some good info. Note, especially on sharpening your chain for rip cuts.
Jan 6, 2011. 10:30 AMTragicSnowfall says:
I was going to suggest renaming this "How to make dull chainsaw chains," but I didn't realize they made milling chains. That's a nifty idea. I'll have to try it sometime.
Jan 4, 2011. 8:34 AMbjooske says:
Don't you need a rail or some guidance to cut the first slab if the tree is bulky or torn?
Jan 4, 2011. 5:38 AMpinksloth says:
Great post. Just got a new welder and now I have a new project.
Thanks
Jan 3, 2011. 5:21 PMCoolerman says:
Great!! But what I would like to see is a chainsaw winch(not the expensive Lewis winch) but a home built?? Any ideas or links???
Dec 26, 2010. 10:04 AMkgresham says:
Very nice, and a much cheaper alternative to commercial chainsaw mills such as the Logosol.
Dec 28, 2010. 3:27 PMKickstart70 says:
Though, there are cheap mills out there like the Granberg Mini-Mill, which allegedly works pretty well, though I haven't tried it myself.
Jan 3, 2011. 10:46 AMlethalflatulence says:
The mini-mill cuts perpendicular to the rails and clamps to the motor end of the bar.
This is an "Alaskan" type mill because it cuts parallel to the rails and attaches to the bar at both ends.
Granberg also sells a "small log mill" which is like the Alaskan, but only attaches to the motor end of the bar.
Jan 3, 2011. 10:31 AMlmac1210 says:
I am with a few of the others and would love to see a video. :)
Jan 2, 2011. 1:09 PMMailman14 says:
Thankyou for posting this! I've been wondering about the shape / size of steel tube / box sections for a couple of years, and can't afford a "bought" one. Perhaps I can get a welder at work to knock this up!
Jan 2, 2011. 5:37 PMGarlikguy says:
If I could "Like" this comment I would!
Jan 2, 2011. 9:42 AMhohum says:
how is the depth of cut controled?? sure makes a clean cut-great idea
Jan 2, 2011. 1:12 PMMailman14 says:
The top "sled" positioned on the round tubes is released and moved away from the clamping fixture - I believe. If you want a small cut (i.e. skimming pre-cut timber) you have the top sled closer to the blade. If you want to remove the excess off a trunk, you move it further up the round bar section, and bolt tight.
Hope this helps.
Jan 2, 2011. 8:24 AMBentSlightly says:
Bummer! No pic in action? It's like going to a Steven Segal movie and doesn't suck.
Let Down ;(
Jan 2, 2011. 8:21 AMHitlist says:
Video would be an excellent t help for us newbies...

Thanx
Jan 2, 2011. 8:13 AMKdemon says:
Any plans on putting on a video of the Chainsaw-mill in action? Keep up the good work.
Dec 29, 2010. 9:24 AMbongodrummer says:
Hay good stuff! Looking forward to the log transporter ible now. I have been dreaming of making a bandsaw mill for quite a long time now. And for as long I have toyed with the idea of settling for a chainsaw mill.... Tricky decisions.

Good luck with your timber framed buildings!
Dec 26, 2010. 9:13 AMFoxtrot70 says:
When my great-grandfather immigrated from Germany he had purchased a farm in near Walton, NY and the barn was an overshot type, that is it was built on the side of a hill and hay wagons would be backed in. There was a bridge in the top of the barn and the hay was then tossed over the sides. I was told by my grandfather that the beams were of hemlock and they were about 18" square with mortis and talon joinery and an oak pin it looked like 6" in diameter and driven thru to lock the joint. The farm had been sold off some 40 years ago I only hope that the lumber was reused; if it were not THAT would have been such a terrible waste.
Dec 21, 2010. 2:17 PMFoxtrot70 says:
Nothing like starting with a nice straight piece of stock. There are many times I would have liked to have had a tool like this especially when a nice cedar, ash, oak, or pine is available. Excellent instructable I voted for ya, keep up the great work!
Dec 26, 2010. 9:01 AMFoxtrot70 says:
Though it has been about 15 years since I lived in St. Louis I do remember believe it or not "Tree Rustling" in old parts of town or run down areas. Someone would come in while a homeowner was on vacation and cut down a walnut tree that was about 30-40 yrs old and then cut the center trunk out some times 10 to 15 feet in length and leave the rest. Very disturbing for the unfortunate homeowner.
Dec 21, 2010. 2:40 AMrimar2000 says:
This is a very useful accessory. I will vote you!
Dec 26, 2010. 6:50 AMrimar2000 says:

I have the cheapest welder of the market, I do only little works. My weldings are rough, I am still learning. I like to weld.
Dec 21, 2010. 2:02 PMbobby sissom says:
i have been looking for detailed instructions for this exact style mill for years ,i was only able to find hints and suggestions or completed pics,as a reward you should know i favorited ,voted,and for the first time ever on instructables ,...i subscribed to an individual ,thankyou for this
Dec 20, 2010. 7:01 AMaeray says:
Looks good. Are you using a rip chain for this? That might be a good thing to add to you upcoming milling 'able.
Dec 20, 2010. 12:00 PMlemonie says:

You've got a problem with overheating?
It appears to me that you'll have weight on the blade, adding a wedge behind the blade, like a bit of steel-bar on the frame might help.
But I don't see throwing a lot of oil at it as the solution.

L
Dec 20, 2010. 4:53 PMaeray says:
Chainsaws, and chainsaw chains, are used 99.9 percent of the time for crosscutting. When crosscutting, the chain makes small chips, and the rakers clear the chips. When ripping, the chain makes ribbons, which tend to clog the rakers, and the groove in the bar, producing more friction and heat. Additionally, a saw used for milling is being used for extended periods at 90 deg. to the usual orientation, so the efficiency of the bar oiler is reduced. A better, higher volume, oiler may help.
1-40 of 68next »

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Author:KentaNolin
My dream is to live in a hand made timber framed house with cob walls, a greenhouse to make food, and an octagonal pottery studio, teaching permaculture and craft