This legendary Star Wars character has been on my Corky To-Do list since the beginning, but I never had time to make it until now. This 7cm Darth Vader Corky has probably been the most diverse (and possibly most challenging) Corky yet. Here's how I did it.

Step 1: Supplies

Above are some photos of some of the supplies I used. I was planning on gathering everything I used and taking a picture of everything at once when I was done, but there were so many different things I gave up trying to find them all again. Even though I used a lot of different supplies, most of them are simple things that most people will have in their home, so they shouldn't be too hard to find.

Tools

UHU glue
Scissors
Black, silver, blue, and red permanent markers
Craft knife
Glossy varnish
Soldering iron and solder
Third hand
Pliers
Hot glue
Wood glue
Super glue
Clamps
Dough roller
File
Sandpaper

Materials:

Champagne cork
3mm red LED
Mini slide switch
Insulated wire
Button cells (I got them from a 12V battery, but you can buy them separately as well)
Small battery spring
Transparent plastic stirring rod
Thick aluminium foil (I got it from a disposable aluminium food tray)
Black sculpey
Pieces of black fabric
Cardboard
Black rubber (from bicycle tubing)
Black foam rubber
Grey card
Aluminium tape
Small pins
Paper

Step 2: The Innards (LED)

Chop your champagne cork in half with a saw, bread knife, or craft knife, and carve out the inside as shown above. Make sure that the switch, LED, and button cells fit.
Then, solder the positive leg of the LED to the small battery spring, and the negative leg to the switch. Solder the other leg of the switch to the negative battery plate, and glue the two battery holding parts to the inside of the cork. Make the wires as short as possible, so that all the parts will fit inside the cork when you close it.
Fill all the empty space (except for the battery compartment) with hot glue, so that the switch stays in place and there won't be any accidental short circuits once the cork is closed.
Use wood glue to glue together the two halves, clamping the cork to let it dry.

Step 3: Mask

The mask was surprisingly difficult to make. But whenever I thought that I wasn't going to finish, I thought of Vader's quote, "I find your lack of faith disturbing".
Even though it turned out alright, please DON'T DO IT LIKE THIS. I modeled the mask around a cork, and as I baked the Sculpey the cork expanded, causing everything to crack up. So whatever you do, don't bake the mask on the cork itself.
If you want to follow my example anyways, the photos above describe my process.

Step 4: Helmet

To stop the helmet from sticking to the mask, bake the two parts seperately (I had to cut some parts of the mask out of the helmet).
The time and temperature at which to bake the Sculpey depends on the brand and type, so check the packaging.

Step 5: Battery Lid

The lid is fairly simple to make. Just make sure that the cardboard circle and the cork align.

Step 6: Clothes

Cut a strip of black fabric and glue it around the cork with UHU glue, joining it at the side where the LED is. Don't forget to leave a hole for the switch at the back.

Step 7: Belt, Shoulder Pads, and Panel

Step 8: Cloak

Cut a piece of black fabric large enough to cover the whole of the back side of the cork so that it flows like a cloak.
Leave a whole for the button at the back. Whereas I always used glue to attach the cloaks in previous Corkies, I realized that small pins are much easier and don't make the cloak as stiff.

Step 9: Details

I showed and described some of these details in some of the other steps, but here they are again.

Step 10: Lightsaber

Unfortunately I forgot my camera when I sanded and cut the rod into the lightsaber blade, but it really depends on your rod, so the instructions would probably have been useless to you anyways.