Introduction: Changeable Lamp
Lamps nowadays come in a variety of different chapels and sizes but none of them fit my newly self built home office. I wanted to make a lamp that could not only be long and flat but also change to be short in width. This would mean it could fit in a number of different shelves on my custom made shelving unit.
This design was made up and developed. I hope you enjoy this as much as I do now!
1500x80x12mm wooden plank (hardwood - any will do)
Glass from a photo frame
Mirrored acrylic sheet (a4)
Acrylic tubing (12.7mm diameter)
3x LED lights
Cable and plug power source
Laser cutter (can be done without)
Approximate cost to build: £30
I, however, used a lot of reclaimed materials so brought this cost down to about £10.
Skill level: I am a beginner at woodworking so I believe anyone can do this
Step 1: Planning
The planning step is the most vital in my opinion, laying out the steps, creating the dimensions and then just going all in.
I'll admit I'm guilty of often ad-living things and just going for it but this project was an exception as I managed to do my CAD models and plan it out. Dimensions for the project as shown in the orthographic projections.
I stuck to this as closely as possible only changing it slightly as problems arose. These problems mainly occurred with the measurements as I altered some of these to fit the product better.
Step 2: Cutting the Wood.
As I was using a reclaimed plank previously used for a shelf I planed the wood to 12mm thick and assured it was 80mm wide.
I routed out a 3mm wide groove (5mm deep) going down the length 5mm in from the edge. I then repeated it on the other side so it is shown as per the photo.
I then marked out the wood into 4x200mm and 8x80mm lengths and cut.
Step 3: Create Mitred Joints
Sand the edges of each in a 45-degree angle. 4 of the smaller pieces are used to create one box, and for the next two boxes, each had 2x long pieces combined with 2x small to make a frame like structure.
Create the mitred joints using a sander until the pieces fit together with little to no imperfections.
Step 4: The Smaller Box Part 1
Take the 4 smaller pieces that are going to make the smaller box.
Measure out the groove to calculate the size of the glass and backing panel. Using your calculations laser cut the square out of the mirrored acrylic. To avoid burns on the mirrored pieces either cut with the mirrow facing down and turn the laser to a minimal setting (this does not guarantee there will be no burns but minimises risk). At this stage you could also cut the mirrored pieces for the larger boxes which should be rectangles.
Step 5: The Glass
Using measurements taken from the previous measuring exercise (same size as the backing plastic) should be around 180x65mm mark out the glass.
Using a glass cutting tool score along the lines you have created and then follow the instructions given with the glass cutting tools to cut out perfect rectangles and a square from the measurements taken before.
Using the cut-out glass pieces create a design of your choice. Keep it simple as it's very fiddly. I chose a basic square drip design for the outer panels and a simple slanted checkerboard for the middle.
Using a scaled design put it behind the glass and begin tracing the design using acrylic paints. The black I used was a liner and then a basic blue and white acrylic paint. To get various shades of blue I simply built up layers on certain bits.
Step 6: Small Box Part 2
In the left side drill a 12.7mm hole for the stationary side. In the reverse side of the stationary box (where the two will be against each other) drill a hole in the corresponding place. Make sure they match up. You want these holes to be stationed in the top right of the box so when you are looking at it from straight on you cannot see where the tube will be clearly.
Repeat for the other side on the opposite way. This will be for the moving box. Repeat again for the top so if you were to move the left box you should line up the holes with each other.
On the right piece in the centre indent using a drill a place for the magnet to sit flush if using. Do the same for the top. These are the two positions the moving box will move into.
Glue the magnet in its station.
Step 7: Small Box Electronics
Using 3 LEDs solder them each to a positive and negative wire. Wire the three cables together into a cable connector (shown above) so that they form into a single wire the opposite side.
Screw in and attach the electrics to the bottom piece.
Glue the LEDs into the three holes drilled previously for the lights to shine down through so they stay in position. These should be positioned over the three holes drilled in the last step.
Note. I am no expert in electronics so there is probably a more efficient way of doing this, feel free to share!
Step 8: Finishing the Small Box
Glue together the bottom and two side pieces. In the back acrylic piece laser cut a hole for the jack and attach the wire to it. Slot in the acrylic backing and use a little glue to keep it in place.
Note. The jack should be able to go into a wire with a USB connection (this will then plug into any smart phone plug such as iPhone where the USB cable can go into)
Slide in the glass and tuck in any wire. On the glass I applied a piece of opaque window vinyl so you could not see into this middle box. (Hides all the cables away) glue on the top piece.
Secure this with masking tape or a tightening device. Leave to dry.
Step 9: Large Boxes
The two boxes are constructed in a very similar way. The only difference is they are in opposite ways and the moving box (right one) will have a magnet. The idea is that the left box will stay in one position and will be secured but the right box will be free to be detached and moved to the upright position.
Using the previously drilled holes from the middle box steps you should be able to drill an indent hole half way through the side piece for the rods to sit into on the inside of the box(12.7mm)
Cut the acrylic rod so that it sits with a very small overhang when put into the box length. It will sit in a horizontal position like a tube.
Glue the bottom and sides together. Slide in the glass and acrylic. Slide the tube in from right to left. Glue on the top piece. Secure with rope or tape and allow to dry.
Repeat these steps for the right box but instead of the indent being on the left it will be on the right piece. Also create an indent on the right outside for the magnet to sit into in the centre.
Step 10: Assembling
You now have 3 boxes that should fit together. Glue the stationary box to the middle box and making sure the LED lights down the tube. Just slot the moving box in and it should hold on both the rod and the magnet. For when the top light isn't required or the side I made a small plug using a 12.7mm acrylic circle glued onto a 13.5mm acrylic circle.
You are finished!