Step by step instruction on changing front brakes on a CRV. 

Step 1:

Always use jack stands when working with a lifted vehicle!!!!!

Lift vehicle at lift at specified lift points(see owners manual).
Horrible. The instructions are missing the quick information I was looking for like wrench sizes and torque specs. I came here so I would not have to find a manual. What horrible instructions.
Why do you have to kill a dog in step 14?
<p>All in all a good tutorial for the do-it-yourselfer, but you forgot one important thing, especially if you are doing all four brakes. Please check the fluid level in the brake reservoir after compressing EACH caliper piston, if your pads are worn the service person (or you) have been topping off the fluid as the pads wear, if you compress all 4 and don't check you are going to have all that excess fluid on the floor. Use a squeeze bulb to lower the fluid level to 1/2 full after each caliper, either keep the fluid or have some new handy as when you pump the brake pedal the level will drop as the pistons push the new pads against the rotor.</p>
Thank you for telling people to use a torque wrench. So many people don't and wonder why something bad happens... My brothers jeep would break bolts or they would come loose all the time...
Silicon spray washes off, it's best to use silicone grease... <br>Which you can buy a bottle of it labeled as brake lubricant or something like that at any automotive store. Typically blue. For brake internals I prefer to use silicone dielectric grease from CRC. I always have a large bottle of it.
Wales, let me be the first to thank you for posting this instructable instead of coing on here to complain about your images. BTW, I am not one of those ofended by it and I found it relevent enough hehe. Good thing you can still see it when you do a search for &quot;CRV&quot;. ;) &quot;Anyhoo&quot;... I am planning on doing this work to my CRV real soon and it's nice to see what I can expect. The pictures were very well taken and the captions explained them perfectly. I am going to try the following: I don't know if it will work for this car or not but I usually just loosen the bolt closest to the brake line and remove the other one. This way I can just swing the caliper bracket out of the way instead of having to remove the entire thing. When you swing it to where you like it, you tighten the loose one back up and it keeps it there. It makes it a lot easier to handle to swap the pads and compress the piston. Maybe you have to remove it entirely to be able to remove the rotor. I guess I'll find out soon enough. Speaking of compressing the piston, it's also a good idea to take the cap off the brake fluid resovoir before compressing the piston. If it over flows it usually does so without a problem but depending on the style cap it can cause damage to either the resovoir, cap, or both. Thanks again for posting this Wales. Excellent work! See, that is a pertinent comment for a auto mechanic tech instructable from someone that is interested in its content instead of those posted by someone that has nothing else better to do than to troll the site and complain about issues of very little importance. ....and I agree, I don't think that the guy that took the picture gives a rats (you know what) if you use it for something like this. Cheers
Please change your main image on this. It has nothing to do with the rest of your project and could be considered offensive by many.
+1 <br> <br>There are also copyright issues (I bet the author didn't ask permission of the image's owner!)
Kiteman, <br>You are correct I did NOT ask permission. I am sorry to the owner of the image. But I am sure they don't mind.
You can only be &quot;sure&quot; if you ask.<br><br>Anyhoo, glad to see you took the advice about changing the intro image.
From a marketing point of view, the main image is a total success. <br>I'm here and i will probably never own a Honda CRV. <br>

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More by madebywales:Replacing the universal joint on a 1987 Silverado Changing brakes on a Honda CRV MORE MEAD PLEASE!! 
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