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Changing the oil in your automobile

Changing the oil in your automobile
A simple guide to changing your oil. This process should only take about 30 minutes. This guide is general, so consult your car's manual for specific instructions.
 
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Step 1Prepare the vehicle

prepare the vehicle
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You first need to make sure you have room to work under your car. You probably will need to jack it up if your working on a car or minivan. You may have enough room in a truck where you wont need to do this. Now make sure the engine bay is cool enough to work in so you wont burn yourself. Its better if the oil is still warm so it will drain out more completely. Waiting 10 minutes after the engine is turned off (From operating tempature) is ussally good.
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23 comments
Jan 13, 2011. 1:15 PMamclaussen says:
SORRY, but I don't agree on leaving a used oil filter when changing the oil!

The used filter still contains almost a quart of dirty oil, waiting for a cold day (when oil viscosity can raise several times) to be pumped tru the pressure relief valve and into the (until that moment) clean oil !!! CHANGE THE FILTER EVERY TIME!

Because I own TWO turbocharged cars, and the turbochargers have very small and extremely hot oil passages, I use an oil cleaning fluid that helps to get the inside of the engine very clean and also facilitate the draining, because it lowers the viscosity an extra amount, so that the used oil comes out faster and more completely than only draining it. This product is called "Oil system Cleaner" by WYNN'S; but there are others similar. This comes in a small violet colored bottle and is added to the USED oil five minutes before draining, with the engine running at fast idle and without driving or subjecting the engine to any load, just fast idling around 1,200 to 1,500 RPM's, to best clean all the engine internal parts. Complete draining can be achieved by waiting with the plug removed only 15 minutes instead of two or more hours by using the Oil System Cleaner. You will notice that the used oil comes out looking darker when using this product because it contains some detergents and helps to remove some carbon deposits. Engine wear is avoided because the cleaner contains some extreme pressure additives, so it has shown to me that it is completely safe to use, as long as you don't load the engine or rev it above fast idle. I've followed this routine for many years and have complete confidence in its advantages over the quick and careless standard oil change procedure followed at most oil change places, while saving enought to buy the oil cleaner and the best quality synthetic motor oil and best made oil filters for my cars. Another Tip: on some cars, the original oil filter is quite small, so that you can easily find a LARGER filter that will have the same base and still fit in the available space... therefore you will be able to put 6 instead of 5 quarts of oil or so, which will permit to extend the oil change interval accordingly and save some oil changes along the years. If your car hasn't an oil plug magnet, you can install a strong speaker magnet to the underside or the side of the oil pan with high temp epoxy (like those with steel or aluminum dust load), to better catch any magnetic particles riding on the oil.

Following these guidelines, the interior of my engines have been kept as pristine and clean as the best racing engine teams have theirs, after several years and in time to rebuild, my friends have been surprised by looking how clean my oil pan comes out, copared the theirs! Best luck, amclaussen.
Jan 11, 2010. 7:27 PMmaxima672 says:
Good instructable you must have spent a good deal of money since I see you buy pretty much everything OE. Nissan doesn't know the meaning of cheap parts though so makes sense.
Jan 11, 2010. 6:47 PMmaxima672 says:
Haha what doesn't cause cancer these days.
Dec 14, 2009. 11:02 AMpetermcottle says:
Good instructable! I liked the "not here, no not here either" picture
Aug 18, 2009. 7:52 PMChucky Shamrok says:
Remember though, Once you switch to Synthetic oil, you can't go back to conventional, it can damage the engine
Aug 18, 2009. 7:50 PMChucky Shamrok says:
If you have to resort to the Screwdriver trick, make sure you put it through the side of the oil filter.
Aug 22, 2008. 3:45 AMDerin says:
im lucky since my VW uses 20w oil all year and i only need to change it about 30000km mileage used
i said mileage since it would be hard to say "kilometerage"
Jul 31, 2008. 2:51 AMRishnai says:
I had that happen once. Then even the screwdriver wasn't giving me enough leverage, and I couldn't fit a hammer (insanely cramped space), so I had to have a friend reach in from a above and tap on it with a wrench while I did the same thing from below. Not fun. I had a talk with the mechanic that screwed that filter on too tight three months before...
Jun 20, 2008. 2:08 PMDerin says:
also bad for enviro:some garages use the oil as fuel for heating systems
Feb 27, 2007. 11:32 AMamericanwit says:
Great instructable. I found a free video that also demonstrates what you just explained. I think it's a little easier than your explination.
http://www.expertvillage.com/videos/overhaul-refill-oil.htm
Nov 17, 2006. 1:41 PMheney_l says:
You don't need to prime any oil filter, not needed, only time you need to prime the oil filter is if you have a turbo car and the turbo uses the same oil as the engine, then you have to prime the filter, if not then you could burn the bearing on the turbo..........engine rpm is 1000= turbo rpm 4000-6000
Nov 17, 2006. 1:36 PMheney_l says:
You didn't check the oil level, start the car get the pressure up so it'll reach the oil filter then shut it off and check the oil level,..
Sep 21, 2006. 11:55 AMgermanpickle says:
Only thing I would mention is that you should never go under a vehicle without stnads in place. Last thing you want is somebody going under their car and having their jack fail.
Jul 8, 2006. 4:25 PMSmokeyTheBear says:
out of curiosity who reads a website about building things from scratch and doesent know how to change the oil on thier car?? besides that it was a great instructible not trying to sound like an ass.
Jul 8, 2006. 5:56 PMtrebuchet03 says:
I'm sure there are plenty of people.... I know a few guys studying mech engineering that have never done it before (or much of anything as far as auto repair/maint. goes)...
Jul 7, 2006. 12:42 PMtrebuchet03 says:
Excellent instructable... I personally use my hands to remove the oil filter :P And if my hands are a bit greasy, I'll throw on some coarse sandpaper to get a better grip :P Really, if you need major tools/struggle removing the filter... it was wayyy to tight in the first place - all you need is a quarter to half turn once the gasket makes contact. I guess 2/3 should be fine, but if you've never done this before - the filter will keep spinning and tightening (while crushing the gasket). Also, if your oil pan uses a drain plug gasket (usually a copper or aluminum crush washer). It is a good idea to replace (so you don't have to over tighten). Quick lube places tend to discard them and then just apply more torque on the bolt (not always the best idea). But the part ranges from 8-20 cents each at the stealarships. And if you are friendly with the service rep, you might be able to get a few at no cost :D This weekend I'll post instructions (with pictures) on how to take an oil sample for analysis
Jul 7, 2006. 6:30 AMrossman says:
Nice instructions: A few suggestions - 1) Remove the filler cap before draining the oil so it will drain faster. 2) A metal, strap type wrench works better (in my experience) that the cap type you used. 3) Don't forget to mention to reinstall the draing plug. 4) Avoid overtightening and/or cross threading the drain plug. 5) It is a good idea (but not necessary) to prime the filter before installation. 6) It is a good idea to clean the area on the engine where the oil filter gasket contacts the engine. 7) Coat the oil filter gasket with new oil prior to installation.
Jul 7, 2006. 9:49 AMBobby_M says:
I agree 100% with rossman's added tips. In regards to #5, if your filter installs somewhat vertically, you can fill the entire thing with new oil before you thread it on. This really helps your oil pressure shoot up as soon as you restart the engine. However, if you've run the car recently, you will already have a coat of oil on everything so damage is unlikely either way. Also, #7 really helps make a nice seal without having to overtighten the filter.
Jul 6, 2006. 6:47 PMradiorental says:
excellent instructable, this was actually going to be one of my next few writeups, I'm changing the rear brakes this weekend. Then the oil. Very well written - welcome.
Jul 6, 2006. 6:16 PMsupes says:
Great run through. I dont think I will ever change my oil but its good to know how.

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