Introduction: Cheap!, Warm!, Comfortable! Loungers
These were made from necessity. then a friend wanted one to wrap up in so I made her one for Christmas. This is how I come upon the idea. I needed and wanted a some warm loungers to wear around the house. I like them loose and warm but couldn't find any loungers that were made from really warm material that cost less that $20 and I needed more than one. So... I came up with this idea. For a long lounger it cost me $4 and for a short one it cost me $3. For 3 long and 3 short it only cost me $21, what I would have paid for one had I bought them. And these ones are so comfortable and warm. How did I do this? Let me tell you. First I went shopping for material and found fleece on clearance at Walmart for $1.50 a yard for 48" width; and $2 a yard for 64" width. I bought 6 yards of of the 48" material in three colors and 6 yards of the 64" material in three different colors. Then I set to work. Anyone who can cut on a line, fold a piece of material, and tie a knot can make these. However, I did opt to sew a couple of them up on the sewing machine but even that was just a simple straight line. Heres what you need and what to do to make one for yourself or for anyone of any age and/or size.
For long lounger: 2 yards of 64" wide fleece for each lounger. (I am 5'6 and this makes it just the right length if your shorter get less yardage just measure from your shoulders down to your feet or to the length you want it.)
For short lounger: 2 yards of 48" wide fleece for each lounger. I imagine your asking why the same amount of yardage when your making a shorter garment. With the 48" material, I wanted a wider garment so I used the 48" for the length and the 2 yards for the width. If you don't want yours so big, get less yardage or cut it down once you get it home. You basically want it to go from wrist to wrist with your arms spread out wide so if 48" will do that by all means get less yardage and but if not, buy yardage of distance between wrist and use the 48" for the length. Of course you could by the 64" width and cut it down also for the length or width.
You will need scissors, something to mark your material with, a ruler or yardstick, and a flat working surface. Thats it unless you want to decorate your lounger with buttons, ribbon, permanent ink markers, acrylic paint or fabric paint, then by all means go crazy with decorating your item.
In my example I am using a mans white hanky and I decorated it after I made the example with "Sharpies". I did this because until it is made it is hard to tell where to put the decorations
Kids: Please ask your parents before you use sharp scissors, we don't want any injuries while we are making this.
Step one: Lay fleece out flat on a work surface. (No picture)
Step two: Fold in half by folding the bottom up to the top
Step three: Fold in half again by taking left side over to right side.
Step four:Before doing this step, PLEASE read through it and practice using paper folded like your material. Why? Because you will be able to tell what shape your neckline will be and because you need to see that while the mark looks like it is making a small hole, it really makes a much bigger hole than you think it will once it is unfolded. Once you have practiced with paper. Mark your line for cutting on the corner that is all folds, no open edges. Please be cautious and cut smaller than you think you need to, I almost ruined 2 yards of fleece because the neckline was too big. You can always go back later and make the hole bigger, or as in one of my pictures cut a slit in the front or back to make it go over your head and be comfortable.
Step five Lay your garment out on the work surface with it folded at the shoulders and spread out (like you would do with a sweater or shirt at home on your bed before putting it on.)
Step six Measure down from the shoulder 4-5 inches (just far enough down that you can get your hand/lower arm in the armhole,) and mark that point. I've put bigger armholes in, and I've put in ones that I just have room to get my hand through the hole. If you want to push the sleeves up a bit, make it bigger. However, the smaller the warmer because air can't get in as well. I forgot to show this step in my instructions
Step seven If you are sewing yours, this is where you will sew a seam up each side, to where you marked for the armhole, backstiching on each end to make it secure. I also ran my seam off to the end at the wrist instead of just running it straight up and stopping.
If you are tying yours: Measure in from the outside edge about 1 1/4-1 1/2 inches. This is personal preference. I found 1 1/2 inch a little easier to tie because it gives you more room. Make marks along the edge as you measure in then draw a line down the length of the material on both sides.
Step eight Using your ruler or yardstick, make a mark at the point you marked for your sleeve, in to the line you drew. Once that is done, continue down the side making marks, to cut on, about the width of your yardstick, or ruler. Don't worry if you don't get it perfect, it won't hurt anything and if you get to the bottom and it isn't the same width it isn't any big deal.
Step nine Cut on your lines into the inner line. (again it isn't any big deal if you aren't perfect with this.
Step ten Starting at the top. Tie the two side pieces to together using a knot that won't pull out (I used a square knot) Pull the knots tight and work your way down the side of the garment matching pieces as you go.
Step eleven is optional
Decorate if you want with anything you want.
Step twelve: If you need to go back and cut the neckline bigger by trimming around the hole you have already, or just cut a slit down the front or back.
This material does not ravel so you don't need to do anything with the armholes, neck or bottom. Just wear it and enjoy it.
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