Instructables
Build a queen size platform bed on the cheap, with storage space underneath, for less than $30, in about an hour, and learn some basic carpentry skills in the process. Please read the "design objective" below.

For similarly easy shelving plans, see: http://www.instructables.com/id/Cheap-easy-low-waste-bookshelves/
For similarly easy dining table plans, see:http://www.instructables.com/id/Cheap-easy-low-waste-trestle-table/

As a professional carpenter, furniture maker, and designer/builder, I see a lot of home carpentry projects that are grossly overbuilt and over-engineered. One of the goals of this Instructable is to avoid the unnecessary overbuilding that I frequently see on this site, and that I see every day working in the residential construction industry. Many of the building methods we (in the US) use today are horribly wasteful despite the advances that have been made in materials science and structural engineering, because most people in the residential building industry, from architects and engineers to carpenters, are mired in tradition, doing things a certain way "because that is how it has always been done", rather than consulting the best available science, or even questioning their own assumptions about "the right way to do it". I don't intend to knock tradition, either. Many of the tricks, techniques, and tools that I use daily are definitely "old-school", but seem to have been forgotten.

This bed is designed to be cheap, lightweight, sturdy, and produce a minimum of waste, using a minimum number of tools. It is intended for use with a futon or mattress without a boxspring and provides storage space underneath sized to fit common cheap plastic storage bins. It also provides good ventilation for the futon or mattress, something that I learned was necessary after my expensive futon grew a large mold/mildew patch on the underside. For those who might think that this bed is flimsy, my wife and I use it nightly, and I am 6'-5" and weigh 240lbs. I wouldn't jump up and down in the middle of it, but it will easily take any other abuse you commit upon it. When I calc it out, this bed uses 23.16 board feet of lumber (1 bd.ft.= 144 cu.in.), or 1.93 cubic ft., and produces only 42 cubic inches of waste, about 1.25%.

Instructables member frazeeg has posted a SketchUp model here.
 
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I am totally inept and I built this bed a year ago. It is a great bed, used with Otis futon. One of the best things about this bed is that it takes up so little space due to the fact the mattress overhangs. The size of the mattess if the amount of space the bed takes up. I'm about to undertake building 2 more. My husband is impressed as I have no carpentry experience whatsoever. Just trying to encourage other slightly beyond middle age women out there.
Thanks! Oh, p.s. only problem was that I couldn't find torx screws anywhere in the size recommended. Should I use deck screws on the next beds?
aeray (author)  southboundtrain3 years ago
If you have already built one, you are NOT inept. You read it and ran with it and it worked out, and you're about to do it again (and again). I'd like to see pics. As for the "deck screws": "deck screws" will be more expensive (you're paying for corrosion-resistant screws), and if you made the first one with Phillips screws, you can make the other ones with Phillips too. If you still can't find Torx or stardrive screws, try finding Robertson or squaredrive screws. If you are really into it, McFeeley's http://www.mcfeelys.com/ has just about any kind of screw you could possibly want. Any kind of drive other than Phillips or flat will make it far, far easier and faster, so ordering might be worth your time.

Thank you for the link. Finding the #10 2" Torx wood screws was impossible at Lowes, Home Depot, and my local lumber store. I used #8 instead as that was all those stores carry that is close to the #10 2".

dandersen41 year ago
AWESOME project! I have put together some name brand furniture with more difficulty and lesser quality. I asked the lumber yard to cut it for me and just assembled it when I got home. It took about 1 1/2 hours and an adjustment after I was finished as it set too high for my thick mattress. I used it until I moved and gave it to my niece who has been using it now for over a year with no problems. Thank you for a great, easy project.
aeray (author)  dandersen41 year ago
I'm glad it worked for you, and thanks for the compliment.
murmom1 year ago
Just made 2 of these (twin size) had to make different heights to accomodate mattress thickness. My sons wanted couch height. This was so easy, thank you for the instructions.
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aeray (author)  murmom1 year ago
Glad you liked it, and thanks for the photos.
zirlock2 years ago
I absolutely love the instructable! I built the first bed and then I could not stop and had to build one for the upstairs bedroom as well. :) I think the text was well written and even with zero carpentry background I was able to build the beds with great success. Thanks aeray!
BuildAFence3 years ago
Just so ya'll know, if you use an impact screwdriver and not a drill driver the phillips head screws go straight in. I was using a drill with a bit to run 4 inch screws into the studs of a wall and when the drill gets loose and jumps the track while your still pressing in it just eats the screw head. Not so with impact driver. I have never had the impact driver jump out the track of a phillips head screw, even once its all the way in it'll keep driving. Impact drivers are awesome!! I have a Ridgid at home and the new little 12V Dewalt for work.
By the way here is my twin version. It is kinda high for my liking and for kids to climb onto so I think I am going to chop the legs in half. It was nice to put those kids jumpers and walkers under there for a while.
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aeray (author)  BuildAFence2 years ago
Thanks for the pics. I bought an impact driver several years ago, immediately after borrowing a co-workers. Unfortunately, I used it so much that it was in the shop being repaired when I made this Instructable. They were also really expensive at the time, so I didn't think many do-it-yourselfers would have/want to buy one. I frequently use mine to drive 12" to 20" long "timberlock" or "olly" screws while timberframing and installing SIPS panels, and have even used it to remove the lugnuts on my truck a time or two, not to mention siding two houses using solely screws as fasteners, and half a dozen+ metal roofs. Impact drivers rock, and are, IMHO, the best cordless tool invention ever.
urbanalbino3 years ago
I made this today! Thank you for posting such awesome directions. I have never assembled anything this 'detailed' before. I had the help of tool identification and uses from my dad and an exceptionally smart 7 year old cousin. I haven't put my mattress on it yet, but I've got a feeling its going =)to be postiively splendiferous.

By the way --- using a saw leaves you with a very strange satisfying feeling!! =)
aeray (author)  urbanalbino2 years ago
I'm glad you enjoyed it. Any pictures?
aeray,

I told you I was going to do it again...but I didn't! She did it herself! (I pre-drilled all the holes) But she really did her thing, this was an excellent project to do together.

Thank you again.

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aeray (author)  skillingsworth3 years ago
Thanks again. As divalea wrote: "I guess platform beds are like kittens, peanut butter cups, and potato chips: hard to stop at one!"

My only other comment is that the slats look a little widely spaced. If it is a fairly stiff mattress, and your daughter is fairly light (as it appears) it shouldn't be a problem now. As your daughter grows, and the mattress ages, you may need to add some more slats.

Please keep me posted, and keep up the good work.
Thank you, I thought they were far apart also, and was about to go cut another one when I remembered her mattress is the "bunk mattress" it has it's own built in slats at the bottom of the mattress, so I don't think it will be an issue.

Take care, I'll be checking back often, I noticed you talking about a corner unit and some other projects I'm dying to see, lol.

Goodnight.
I built this bed yesterday in a full sized version. I started with Phillips head screws which were a disaster, and quickly chose to drive all over town in search of Torx screws. After I found them, an hour and forty five minutes later, my "work in progress" guest room has a great looking sturdy bed! I'm working on a wood burning project for the headboard, and my daughter has already asked that I make her one in a twin version and paint it turquiose! I am going to shorten the legs though, she's only 5, lol. We are going to get the materials later today!

I am going to build bedside tables and bookshelves myself also. Once I realized how much money I could save, I decided the entire guest room will be made by yours truly.

Thank you aeray! I am inspired! ;-)
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aeray (author)  skillingsworth3 years ago
Excellent work, and thanks for the photos.
Mindfulmoon3 years ago
This is an excellent instructable. Directions were clear, thorough and easy to follow. The project turned out just as it should have. Even though we calculated and purchased for a different sized bed (Full) we had no trouble doing so. Took us slightly longer than we had planned but that was due to a severe thunderstorm, two meals and a movie break. :-) We are not "rushers". Thank you for posting this. We have plans for one more (twin) in a month or so. Also, we decided on a different sized bin due budgetary restraints and found it advisable to "downsize" the legs by 6 inches. I'll post a pic when I can. Also, I'll try to show our "hack" for attaching my legacy store-bought headboard.
aeray (author)  Mindfulmoon3 years ago
I look forward to it.
theloo0073 years ago
This is such a wonderful layout for a bed frame/storage area. I have a question for the author, do you see a problem if I substitute using 4x4 for legs. I want to add wheels and will shorten legs accordingly to adjust for the height? Lynn
aeray (author)  theloo0073 years ago
It shouldn't be a problem.
aertz3 years ago
This looks pretty simple! I'm planning on building this but for a full size mattress. How would the measurements differ?
aeray (author)  aertz3 years ago
Just make the slats 5" shorter. Everything else is the same.
ddodd13 years ago
Firstly, this bed looks incredible, and it seems like an extreme thorough and concise instructable. As a college student, I especially like the low price estimate!

I'm hoping to build a platform bed for a twin size mattress, but it needs to fit a 28" tall dog crate underneath. It seems simple enough to just build much longer legs, but is that safe? Should I add an extra leg in the center and/or connect all four legs to keep it from wobbling? Maybe drill it into the studs along the wall? How much bowing do I need to account for? I don't have an extremely extensive amount of carpentry experience, and I'm worried about crushing my dog!
aeray (author)  ddodd13 years ago
For a twin, you should be fine with just elongating the legs. If you want to be extra-safe, just use 1 x 6's for the legs instead of 1 x 4's.

ddodd1 aeray3 years ago
Perfect! Thanks so much! I can't wait to build my bed!!!
divalea3 years ago
I guess platform beds are like kittens, peanut butter cups, and potato chips: hard to stop at one!

I built a queen platform for myself this past weekend. I managed to get the Spax screws at Home Despot, but still had to settle for the loathsome Philips. (Which ended up causing problems, mainly fatigue from fighting the camming-out.) Another lesson learned with this project:check the angle on your table saw blade EVERY TIME, even the NEXT DAY. Most of my cuts were at a slight angle, very slight, because my blade got angled just enough from the previous day's cutting. On the slats and legs, this was not a big deal. On the one long frame piece, it was a "use a hacksaw to cut off a slice to square off the end of the lumber because otherwise there will not be a good joint" deal.

The building did go faster this time. Still not a two-hour job, but faster. The lumber and screws cost $40. I ended up with a number of 1.5" pieces (that I'm going to use for another project) because it was cheaper to buy 6' lengths of wood than 12'. (6' 1x4 at my HD was $1.99, 12' 1x4 was triple that.) I had to predrill everything again. Even with better screws, the wood split. Grrr.

After sleeping on my mattress on the floor for nearly a year (hey, divorced lady, should've taken the King bed frame!), this bed feels really high in the air. It's great!

I got the uncut lumber into the Crown Vic this time (last time, I had some pieces cut first, this time I didn't.) It took a while! I've included a pic for proof. ^__^

Pic 1 is the bed, all dressed up. I'm using a king comforter and flat sheet. (Bed linens were all sourced from discount stores like TJ Maxx. Still expensive, but much nicer than what the same money would buy for "current season" linens.) 
Pic 2 is to show the awesome storage under.
Pic 3 is construction, using a sewing table and the first platform bed as sawhorses.
Pic 4 is "How to get 13 pieces of lumber in a car."

Next project: building your bookshelves to make swell room dividers. Can hardly wait.
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aeray (author)  divalea3 years ago
Excellent. Thanks for the pictures, especially the last one.
llmadigan3 years ago
aeray, you are THE MAN! i made your shelves and am super pleased with them - especially since i'm not much of a builder :) i'm planning on making this bed tonight and have everything but the countersink. how important is it that the screws are sunk in? could just a pilot hole be good enough? i'm not trying to be a cheapskate, but if i don't have to buy it i'd prefer not to...

thank you, btw, for putting together these plans and posting them for free! i'm so proud of myself for building simple/solid stuff for myself.
aeray (author)  llmadigan3 years ago
Just a pilot hole is fine, especially since most Torx head screws are self-countersinking to some degree. The only holes I bothered countersinking are the ones for connecting the 2x4s together for the frame. Oh, wait- if you already made the shelves, that means that you already have a 9/32" drill bit, right?
Just drill the small pilot holes, and then use the 9/32" bit to "countersink" them about 1/8". Problem solved. Post pics when you're done, and look for my upcoming "Cheap, easy, low-waste trestle table" which I should have up by New Years.
aeray (author)  aeray3 years ago
Oh, yeah, you used 3/8" all thread didn't you? Whichever bit you used for that will work as well, but be careful not to let it pull itself in too deep.
Hi Aeray,
Just wanted to send you pics of one of your bed designs. This is a full size. I had to use a piece of 2x4 vs 2 pieces os 1x4 (see pic). Will this cause me probs over the long run?

THANK YOU!
MaryAnn
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aeray (author)  mhendrickson3 years ago
Looks good. The 2x4 shouldn't be a problem.
eckmannl3 years ago
Thanks so much for posting this! It is just what I needed. Last week my dad came over and I just called out directions to him and his helper. This week, I decided that I needed another one. This time I did it entirely on my own. I have never built anything totally by myself before (I'm a woman in my 30's), so this was really satisfying for me. The one that was built last week was according to your instructions. The one I did this evening was made a little more narrow to fit a full, extra long mattress. Thanks again!!
aeray (author)  eckmannl3 years ago
You're welcome. Post a pic or two.
Kbjug1234 years ago
I made my bed a week or two ago, built it all by myself. Amazed my husband that I actually did it. It squeaks slightly under certain conditions, but I think that I just need to put one new leg under it. For a headboard I really wanted a picket fence type headboard so I put an ad on Kijiji for a peice of used fence. Then , walking past our "burn" pile ( we live on a feedlot) I saw a peice of brown picket fence. My husband helped me fish it out and when I measured it , it was a perfect 60 inches wide, which is exactly what I needed. So I painted it glossy white and popped it between the bed and the wall. Ladada!!! Thanks for the great instructable . Can't wait to try something else!!
BeanGolem4 years ago
This Ible definitely deserves its rating. I just made one last weekend in a few hours. My lumber store down the street didn't have 14' 1x4s, so I had to improvise the breakdown a little and ended up with a few extra slats. I guess it just makes it that much more sturdy. The scrap is also long enough to be used in other projects, so that's a bonus. I'd post a picture, but... well... it kinda looks exactly the same...
After much searching, I found this Instructable for a platform bed. Built it, disassembled it and shipped it to where I needed it. Took under an hour to reassemble at the destination and it's wonderful. I tweaked the instructions slightly to account for the types of lumber available, but it's all worked out. Used the sheet recommendation in Instructables for a bed skirt and use plastic underbed storage containers to hold my clothes until the rest of the furniture arrives. This is a wonderful project and I recommend it to anyone who wants an inexpensive, easy to build bed. Would like to plug Otis mattresses. Made for futons and wonderful for this bed. Super quality - not a cheap mattress but worth it.
aeray (author)  mhendrickson4 years ago
Glad it worked for you. I am also a big Otis mattress fan: great beds, great customer service.
partrician4 years ago
i loved this project. i had to go to the home depot to get the lumber though but i got home and had this done within 2 hour. now i want to do the headboard mod with the nigth stand extension. i have already mapped it out and plan to install a drawer under the night stand exstension. thank you so much for such a cool project!!! i have saved a ton of money!!
tealeaf934 years ago
Well looks like im not the only one that has built one of your beds and liked it. Thanks a lot for posting this instuctable. I've saved a ton of money.
aeray (author)  tealeaf934 years ago
You're welcome, and thanks for the comment. I enjoyed (and still enjoy) making it and posting it. Enjoy your bed.
MarkL3yesterday

Thanks for taking the time to explain this. Mine came out really nice. Lumber and screws for mine cost about $50 though. Maybe wood is more expensive in western North Dakota.

aeray (author)  MarkL3yesterday
Viva la Bakken! I'm sure the oil patch isn't helping material prices at all. I also published this 'ible six years ago, when I was in ID, and prices have gone up since then.
adam16660 made it!2 days ago

I built this in a twin size. I wasn't sure if the leg connection might get loose over time so I beefed it up by building it out of 2x4s and cut a 45 degree beveled notch. I then added an angled brace and 2- 3" lag bolds to finish it off. This is probably the strongest leg connection I have ever made. Very solid with no movement whatsoever and only cost a little less than 10 dollars extra.

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NikDan1010 months ago
I want to build this bed but in a king size- what would the measurements be? This is an awesome idea.

I am also interested in building a king size. but was wondering if it would need extra support for the size?

aeray (author)  horrorcraft19 days ago
King measurements are given several times in the comments.
ASim9120 days ago

Hi aeray,

Maybe a dumb question but do you know what the dimensions would be for a full-size bed frame?

Thanks!

aeray (author)  ASim9119 days ago
Just make the slats 5" shorter. Everything else is the same.
NickR123 days ago

First off, wonderful tutorial. Very easy to follow and I plan on building my own in the near future. My only issue is that I would like to be able to build this to withstand a box spring and mattress, as well as my wife and I. I know you say in the tutorial that this platform bedframe is designed for something light like a futon mattress, so what would you recommend I do to alter the design so it will accommodate the added weight? Thank you so much and great tutorial once again!

aeray (author)  NickR122 days ago
Yep. No rail would be necessary if you use the non-skid shelf liner (or toolbox drawer liner) between the slats and box spring.
aeray (author)  NickR123 days ago
The weight isn't an issue. The futon we use is probably heavier than many mattress/box spring combos. The issue is that the edges of the box spring need to be supported, so the slats need to be a full 60" long. The overall length of the bed can stay the same though. And, unless you want a really really tall bed, make the legs about 10" shorter.
NickR1 aeray22 days ago

So essentially shorten the legs, lengthen the slats, and add some kind of "rail" around the slats using a 1x4 or something to keep the box spring from sliding off the slats?

IanS125 days ago

Amazing plans, just what I have been looking for. I am thinking about making the slats fit the bed at 60x80 instead of an overhang, I don't mind busted shins. I worry about the mattress moving when making my bed and having to re-center it. Also I plan to make the legs attachable with bolts for easy removal/moving. Would the original box of 2x4s be okay with the added length of slats? Or should I adjust that as well? Any recommendations on bolts for the legs?

aeray (author)  IanS124 days ago
The longer slats should be fine. Bolt-wise, I would use (4) 3/8" through bolts (NOT carriage bolts) with fender and lock washers on both sides. 4 per leg. I wouldn't bother though, removing bolts is no easier than removing screws. I've moved my bed five times now and just unscrewing them works fine. To keep the mattress from slipping, just put a piece of rubberized shelf liner under it.
bravewave1 month ago

I've built every bed in our home over the last 15 years, resizing as the kids got older. I even built "the amazing fold up bunkbeds" which played to rave reviews from friends. But nothing I built has been so well received as your bed plan. It's simply, elegant, efficient and nice to look at with cabinet grade pine even left untreated. Thought I'd thank you and share that as I build another one on request from a tenant in one of our rental properties. I reviewed your bookshelves (which I will certainly build) and your trestle table (looks great and simple.) I most appreciate the lack of waste as your plans are so efficient. Keep 'em coming!

Rileykj751 month ago

Hi there- I know this is an older instuctable, but I just wanted to say thanks! Never built a thing before, and your directions were amazing. I knew nothing of screws before I read your post, and I cannot believe what a difference it makes! It was like drilling into butter. So, thanks much. I now have some skills (very small amount) but more confindence!

jpolfer made it!1 month ago

Thank you for this plan! I adapted it - its built for xl-twin, I used 2x6s for the box, 2 inch gap for cross members, and no legs. Your joinery explanation was very helpful for me. This was my first woodworking project ever, and it worked out well. The platform has great stability and contributes to a great night's sleep. I also made a small nightstand using left over wood and the same joinery technique to go along with it.

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clint32002 months ago

I made another twin today and changed it slightly from last one. I put the smaller 2x4's inside the longer 2x4's on the frame. It made the frame a little wider for stability.

Edited twin sizes:

(3) 14' 1x4s

(1) 18' 2x4

From the 14' 1 x 4's , cut 5 33.5" slats (on 4 of the slats, cut them in half for legs)

from the 18' 2x4 cut 2 x 5'11" long frame pieces and 2 x 2'3" short frames pieces

Put the smaller 2x4's inside the longer sections when making frame.

Side marks for the slats:

2 1/4

9 1/4

16 1/4

23 1/4

30 1/4

37 1/4

44 1/4

51 1/4

58 1/4

65 1/4

2 1/4 from other end for last one.

Total for lumber was $29

aeray (author)  clint32002 months ago
Thanks for the dimensions.
Spax_2 months ago

Gonna give this a go next days off I have.

The closest timber sizes I can find in the UK are 19x100mm and 38x100mm. Will that timber still work or will that 10mm difference build up and I'll end up with something out of whack? I guess there's only one way to find out.

aeray (author)  Spax_2 months ago
The thicknesses are within hundredths, so no problem there. Lumber isn't even milled that accurately. It is about half an inch wider, which shouldn't make a difference, except that you will need a few less slats.
aramina made it!2 months ago

I built a twin size bed! Somehow. LOL. I'd never used a saw before, and only used a drill a couple times. But...

Hardware store's saw was broken and all we have is a handsaw. I sat down two Sundays ago and spent a couple hours cutting everything to size. Wood sat out in my garage until today, when I finally had time for it. The first time I put the frame together, one corner popped up several inches. Not sure why. Pulled it apart, tried again, and you can see the result in the picture.

Local stores don't carry 10x2 screws in anything but Phillips head, and the 9x2 Torx were out of stock when I last checked. A few days ago, I gave up on my search for something approximating the right size and bought Phillips head. Started trying to put the legs together and the slats on, and it was a nightmare. Even predrilling didn't help. Ended up screwing some of them in by hand (my hands did not appreciate this).

Fed up, I headed back to the store for anything but Phillips head. Found the #9 2-inch screws, counted my blessings, came home, and it took all of ten minutes to screw the legs and remaining slats in place.

The bed feels solid as a rock. My only issue is the height. I like all the storage space beneath, but with an elderly cat who likes to hang out on my bed, it's not ideal. But maybe with my new sawing and drilling skills I'll make some stairs for her to replace my current solution of a chair and a cardboard box.

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clint32002 months ago

Awesome plans. I made the queen size first per the listed specs.

I then made a twin and wanted to post my specs in acse it helps someone else:

My lumber store did all the cuts for free, so this was handy for hauling in small truck.

Boards for twin - (3) 14' 1 x 4 ; (1) 18' 2 x 4

From each 1x4 cut (5) 33 1/2" slats (on for of those cut in half for legs)

From the 18ft 2x4 cut (2) 5' 11" and (2) 2' 3" frame pieces.

Side marks fro the slats: 3 1/4", 10 3/8, 17 1/2, 24 5/8, 31 7/8, 39, 46 1/8, 53 1/4, 60 3/8, 67 1/2, 71 ......yes I missed one gap by an 1/8 but it works.

Total for lumber was $29. Already had hardware, so this was cheap and easy. Thanks again.

peets3 months ago

l love woud and the bed

ncilley3 months ago

I just made this tonight. I bought materials, star screws, and a set of countersink bits with pilot in sizes #12, #10, #8 and #6 from Home Depot and spent $51.38. I wish they sold the bits individually, the set was over $10. Downfall on lumber, the 14' 1x4 was #2, and the 10' 1x4 was prime, so I spent more on the 10' than the 14' boards. I don't mind the rustic look of the lumber, it is not visible once the mattress is in place, but trying to avoid knots when driving in screws gets tough on the lesser quality boards.
I enlisted the help of the 18 year old help at the cutting center. Today was Mother's Day so no one was in the store. He had no problem making the 20 or so cuts on the radial arm saw. Much faster than doing it by hacksaw at home, and the new lengths of lumber could now fit in my suv.
My son and husband sanded the edges of all the boards while I measured all points for pilot holes. I did not want to risk splitting any wood, because there were no leftovers for repair or replacement. The new drill bits worked smoothly. My 10 year old son got to try his hand at measuring points for the pilot holes and actually drilled some out. I wanted to sleep on this bed tonight, so I finished up quickly.
Once the frame was together I also showed him the distance from corner to corner trick to square up the frame. He was impressed. The boys then set out the slats and held them in place while I screwed away.
My husband was concerned the legs wouldn't hold when I showed him how they were attached. I told him about all the positive comments in your instructible, and bargened that if it was not solid, I would go back and pick up some extra supports and eat crow quietly.
Guess who's not sleeping on the floor tonight?! :) Thank you so much for your help.

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aeray (author)  ncilley3 months ago
Looks good. Thanks for the photo.
andrewdue3 months ago

I am very seriously considering building this. I love the simple design and the storage space underneath. My only concern is how the mattress overhangs the edges. I don't want to buy a nice mattress and then the bed frame ends up digging into it and possibly causing damage. Can anyone tell me if they have had a problem with this, or is this something that isn't worth worrying about?

ncilley andrewdue3 months ago

Totally worth it! It won't hang off that much. Just enough that you don't skin your knee getting into bed.Sand the edges of the slats, and you can put a dust ruffle over the entire bed before putting your mattress on top, just to be sure. if you have a really tall mattress you may want to shorten the legs. My mattress is 10". Any taller I would need a stepstool.
The poor picture below shows 2 of the slats under my mattress, with about 4" of overhang, the other side only has 2" of overhang (need to adjust mattress it's not center ugh).
Good luck hope you like it!

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aeray (author)  andrewdue3 months ago
​I haven't had any issues with ours. We use a high-end futon with it. The problem with making the slats longer is that they beat up your shins if you bump into or lean over the bed, or poke your calves if you are sitting on the edge of the bed. Others have made them longer and "capped" the ends with another 1x4 run continuously horizontally around the outside edge of the slats, and attached to the ends of the slats themselves.
laurie simone4 months ago

Awesome bed frame. I plan on building one in a twin size. Can I get the material list and instructions for that?

aeray (author)  laurie simone4 months ago
Everything is the same, just make the slats 4" shorter
mquinton4 months ago

This looks awesome! I was going to come up with my own plan and you saved me some trouble! :) One question, though. I have a teenage son that is 6'6"+ and at least 340 lbs. He has a habit of tackling me and throwing me on the bad. Also, I will be kneeling on the bed when I put on the sheets since it will be in a corner. I worry that the 1"x4"s might crack under the abuse. But then again, 1" is pretty thick, so I'm torn. What do you think? I wonder if I should just use a sheet of plywood? I welcome advice.

aeray (author)  mquinton4 months ago
I am a big guy too, but not that big. Substitute 2x6s for the frame, and use 2x4s for the slats. I wouldn't use plywood because you need to have some air circulation.
mquinton aeray4 months ago
Thanks! That sounds sturdy enough. :) I'll be sure and put up some pics when I'm done.
califazen6 months ago

I t hink I may narrow the space between slats just a bit for the next one. I laid up a pair of 1x4s on the centerline beneath since the not-so-great-quality warehouse wood was making annoying noises; I may do a king-size version next; that will need a center support--do you think a center leg—maybe just a 1x4— for a bigger model?

aeray (author)  califazen5 months ago
Others have used a 2x4 lengthwise down the center, basically a third rail, attached about 1/4" lower than the slats so there is still a bit of room for them to flex, and another leg made of two pieces of 1x4 just like the other ones.
alejandroerickson made it!5 months ago

Fun! I made one too. Do I get points for using reclaimed wood?

Here is a timelapse video of it http://youtu.be/DeeaGircsJI

20140308_143807.jpg
aeray (author)  alejandroerickson5 months ago
Sure, have some points for the improvisation too. You may want to back up the slat nails with some screws though. Thanks for the video!
alejandroerickson made it!5 months ago

Fun! Do I get the extra points for using reclaimed wood? Timber is expensive in the UK :p

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DeeaGircsJI

20140308_143807.jpg
Chrisakus6 months ago

I would like to make this for a king mattress. Do you have a supplies list and instructions for that too? I'm wondering if you would recommend additional mid-bed supports to accommodate the larger mattress?

shocksystems8 months ago
My bed collapsed on Sunday morning. After looking for bed frames I realized they were all expensive, would take a while to get and all had questionable strength. Then I searched and found this instructable. I went to Home Depot (the only thing open) got the stock (only had grade 2 pine and not in the dimensions suggested to minimize waste), the total cost was close to $100. Construction went well and we slept on it that night. Feels solid, my wife was very impressed. Thanks for a great instructable.
IMG_20131222_223605779.jpg
aeray (author)  shocksystems7 months ago
Looks good, thanks for the photo.
bananafrog7 months ago

Thanks much for the plans. I previously had an issue b/c I had used cheap screws that crumpled in the wood. But after replacing them w/ solid screws, I put the bed together no problem.

However, I'd really like it to be very sturdy. Zero rocking. And at this point, it still seems to have some give, and makes noise when the bed is being, uh, actively used.

What's the best way to make this bed rock solid?

Thanks!!!!

aeray (author)  bananafrog7 months ago
The lumber is still acclimating to the temperature and humidity in your home, which is probably greatly different than that at the lumberyard. Firmly retighten the frame and leg screws with a handheld screwdriver. Don't bother with the slat screws. You may have to do this more than once as everything " settles in". If your activity level is ​particularly high, diagonal braces of 1x4 on the legs (at a 45deg angle) forming a right triangle between the leg and 2x4 frame may be necessary. I'd try snugging up the screws a time or two first, though.
AlexandreZ1 year ago
You don't mention sanding at all, but your boards don't appear particularly rough. Is there an implicit sanding step in here?
aeray (author)  AlexandreZ1 year ago
Nope. No sanding. Nothing really shows. Make sure you get "S4S" lumber ("surfaced four sides") and it should be smooth enough. Almost all lumber from yards in the US is sold this way. Non-S4S is usually special order. If you want to dress it up a bit, sand the visible surfaces with 120 grit paper, stain them, and clearcoat, but mine is plain unfinished, unsanded wood. If you do decide to dress yours up, please post pics.
numb3r5ev3n aeray7 months ago

This was pretty much what I did when I stained mine with Varathane Ebony. I had great results - you can't even tell it's just framing lumber anymore. This is also a great project for learning how to stain and finish wood.

numb3r5ev3n7 months ago

Just popped in to say that I helped my friend put one of these together in her guest room last night. She has one of those crazy 16-inch thick pillowtop mattresses, so we just omitted the legs. Doing this sort of gives it the effect of a floating platform bed. Thanks again!

bananafrog7 months ago

Hi there! I picked up all the parts. Including #10 screws. They are Philips head, couldn't find Torx.

I drilled in holes with the countersink into the 2x4. But the 3" screws only went about .5" before getting warped, stripped and then stuck in the wood. Tried it w/ several screws. Any idea what's going on?

aeray (author)  bananafrog7 months ago
Any number of things. One, cheapo screws. Two, Phillips head. Three, a knot in the lumber.

My first suspicion is cheapo screws, though. You could try ceramic-coated exterior-grade screws, which are a bit more expensive but generally of better quality.

Let me know how it goes.
hobotraveler8 months ago
Thanks, I am in Kara, Togo West Africa, and need to buy a bed. The locals sell ready to go frames that have the mattress at 14 inches high. This makes getting in and out of a bed more difficult, especially for large people. I believe the design of the legs of your bed is as strong as possible, for the least amount of wood. I have lived in over 1000 hotels, and storage under a bed is extremely valuable in a small hotel room. Plus this type of bed makes flipping a mattress, and cleaning underneath better. On a strange note, mosquitoes hide under bed, along with cockroaches, etc. Therefore this is another great reason for platform beds. Thanks, what I love about instructables is that they use appropriate ideas, not make work ideas. Andy Graham in Kara, Togo
aeray (author)  hobotraveler8 months ago
Glad you like it. My extensive travels in Australia and Central America did inform the design, I must admit.

Have you built one? Are you going to?
I am going to have three made, two doubles and one single bed size. I think I want the top of the platform at 20 inches high.

What I needed was the photos, I will have them printed today at the cyber cafe. Then show them to a carpenter, get a price, then have them make one as the model, and then do the other two after I am sure he is with the program. Herein is the problem, I can give exact measurement, drawings, etc. and, they will ignore. Truly the photo work 50 times better than a drawing.

I may just have them make some legs, then tell them to connect to a platform, I feel they can get the platform adequate, it is the legs strength that I worry about. I do not want the bed wiggling or falling. Your L design of legs, makes a gusset in the end, diagonal supports to solve the problem of rectangles.

I am also working on a malaria project, and will incorporate into the bed the ability to hang a mosquito net. More or less this platform type of bed will minimize rips in bed nets. Their present design is horrible.

What Africa needs to stop malaria is crews of good carpenters who understand building. For example, many houses are hot because they do not ventilate the dead air space of the roof. Simple, simple problems to solve, but not solved.

People do not use bed nets because they are hot, but I do not blame them, the house designs here are some of the worst on the planet.

I will put up a photo when done.
aeray (author)  hobotraveler8 months ago
Hey, I run up against all types of construction ignorance here in the US too. "No, I'm not going to do it any other way than the way my dad and his daddy before him did it". It is pervasive here, and cripples the building trades. Another example: I was recently in Suzhou, China, where it snows and is regularly below freezing. Buildings are almost always uninsulated masonry construction, and have no central heating. Why are they uninsulated? "If it worked here, we already would have thought of it, hundreds of years ago. Obviously, if it worked here, we would already be doing it. Insulation will not work in Suzhou." End of discussion. This kind of thinking pisses me off to no end. Best wishes, and best of luck.
lothbrok8 months ago
Hi. May sound like a dumb question, but can the measures be altered to fit a king-sized futon mattress? (I have an oversized futon mattress that's 81'' x 81'', near as I can tell). Would this design still be structurally sound at that size, or do I need to brace it with a rail down the middle? I love the look, but having 2' of mattress hanging off the sides won't do me much good if I build it to the current specs. Thanks! :)
lunicycle9 months ago
Thanks - This was the first piece of furniture I have ever made.

My son’s room is very small and was looking for a frame that would take up no more space than the mattress. No one seems to make one so ended up here. Decided initially that I would do it without laths overhanging but fortunately, see below, changed my mind in order to accommodate a wall socket without making the bed ridiculously high. I used slight variations on timber sizes based on what my local DIY shop had in planed timber and got them to cut the lengths. The other variation I made was to use 70 mm solid square legs but this did mean I had to check out how the screws worked on the corners, screws don’t screw into screws! To check this out I used a bit of free software called FreeCAD which I managed to put the design on to very quickly, see picture.

When we, my son helped me, finished the bed it was solid as a rock but with one problem. I had sized it to the nominal size of the mattress without realising that mattresses don’t have square corners, well at least his doesn't, so off with the bottom lath and out with a jig saw and sander to put a ¼ ellipse on the offending corner, see picture.

This bed is so solid and comfortable; it was the cheapest but the best in the house and I am now thinking about building a double for my wife and me. – Thanks again.
aeray (author)  lunicycle9 months ago
Looks good, and thanks for the photos.
Pictures are here. For some reason Chrome wouldn't let me add them so swapped to IE.
bed design.jpgIMG_6989.JPG
kenwolf9 months ago
I am a Home Improvement Contractor and my 22 year old Daughter asked me to build a platform bed for her. My first design ideas were much more complicated and expensive than yours. She sent me a link to your site, and the simplicity and function of your design will save me a lot of work. I'll let you know how it come out.
aeray (author)  kenwolf9 months ago
Yep, I had a few other designs worked out, but I needed a bed, quick. Let me know how yours turns out.
edel9 months ago
So we made bed two today, The first one I made (about a year ago) I had shortened the legs, this one was made as per the plans above, and it is mad high!..,,my mattress is fairly thick and I am tall, but a small family could camp out underneath. I am also a little disappointed that this one squeaks and the first one didn't but the first one is in a space that is boundaried on three sides, so perhaps that prevents some movement and squeaks.

I could only get decking screws that had a torc head, which were great (until I hit knots in the wood and they camed out..) the rest were the usual crappy phillips..

Tomorrow I am going to cut about 6 inches off the legs and add a few more screws to tighten everything up.

I added a 4x1 rail all along one side, to finish off the sides, to stop me adding to my collection of bruises, The bed is against a wall and so I pulled the first and last slat out by about 3mm, and screwed the rail to these.. (to avoid squeaks!)..


however it is still a brilliant project, easy (especially if you have someone else to cut the wood) ...thanks again aeray
aeray (author)  edel9 months ago
Sounds good. Sometimes it helps to retighten all of the screws after using the bed for a few days, especially if the lumber was stored outdoors (even covered) and particularly if you have forced air or electric radiator heat.
edel aeray9 months ago
Will do, thanks for that. I still haven't chopped it down..so it is currently known as 'the bed in the clouds'..

it very comfortable and probably leads to lofty thoughts.

Thanks for the tip re tightening the screws. I actually ended up using unfinished 4x2 as my local hardware store didn't stock it (and they were so much cheaper than the chain stores) their 'rough' 4x2 was plenty good enough for this project and has been stored outside, and then in my house for a couple of weeks, but not in an area of much heat, so I will remember to tighten everything up over the next while.

also just to let you know the extra 4x1 'rail' I put on the side, works perfectly for this klutz...no bruises!
jill209 months ago
Thanks for this wonderful instructable! After checking 3 independent hardware stores and 2 big box stores, the only non-Phillips head screws I can find are 8's rather than 10's. Would that be a major problem?
aeray (author)  jill209 months ago
For the 2" screws, #8 should be fine. For the 3" screws though, I'd size them up to #12, instead of down to #8.
rush2ady9 months ago
Hi, I love this design (the minimalism appeals to me). However, my husband seems quite taken by the nomad furniture I've made (bookshelves, large desk) and now wants everything to be collapsible for easy moving. I'm thinking of ways to modify this to come apart more easily. Maybe a couple large bolts instead of screws to attach the side and foot rails together, and maybe heavy duty velcro to attach the slats instead of screwing them on? And I want shorter legs, which I would screw half the leg piece to the side rail, the other half to foot rail.
What's your opinion--will this work? Or do you have a suggestion of a different design altogether? I've looked around online, but really wanted to use the 12' 2x4s now that I have them, rather than 1xwhatevers to make a mortar/tenon or interlocking design.
aeray (author)  rush2ady9 months ago
Taking out the screws only takes 2-3 minutes using a drill, so it is already fairly nomadic. I've moved ours three times now, and disassembled and reassembled it more times than that.

The Velcro is an interesting idea, and would probably work, but you would lose most of the shear strength along the horizontal plane; the bed could "go rhombus". Similarly, the two pieces that form each leg need to be attached to each other for strength.

I'm interested to hear (and see) what you come up with; keep me informed.
rush2ady aeray9 months ago
Thanks for your quick reply! It helps to know it comes apart and is put together again easily . In which case, I'll use screws everywhere, keeping the same design, but maybe bolts instead of the 3" screws to attach the rails together. I'll take pictures if I do modify.
#10 stardrive screws are proving hard to find, my local lumber yard didn't have them, and Lowe's didn't have them in the correct length (and they had were "exterior"). I'll have to order online. I know once I have everything, this will be a quick build. Thanks again for the great, simple design.
aeray (author)  rush2ady9 months ago
No problem. Exterior grade screws are fine to use, they are just very slightly more expensive. Bolts are fine, too, but predrill carefully. I don't actually use lag bolts much anymore, I far prefer hybrid bolt/screw fasteners like these, which would be quite appropriate for your application.
elizakae10 months ago
Has anyone done the calculations for a twin-size bed frame like this/built a twin-size frame like this? I'd like to still keep the lumber waste minimal.
eephotog10 months ago
I built a full sized version of this about 2 years ago, and it was great, but the legs haven't held up well after a couple of moves, removal, and reattachment. I did have slightly longer legs (24") , and slightly shorter slats than with the queen. The legs all wobble a bit now, and one of the slats cracked. (At a knot though)

I'm planning on building another for a queen sized, but want to maintain the taller height. I'd like to make the legs sturdier, and easier to remove/reattach, as well as adding a center support to prevent some sag I got. Any advice?

My initial thoughts were to step up to 1x6 or 1x8 for the legs, to provide a wider base and wider attachment to the bed, and possibly using bolts+washers instead of screws to keep the joint strong after disassembly.
aeray (author)  eephotog10 months ago
I'd use 2x4s for the legs, and 3-1/2" x 3/8" through bolts with washers on both sides. 3 per leg (12 total) should be enough.

Is the sag just in the slats, or is it in the side rails? Did you build the 2x4 section the same size as the queen version and just shorten the slats?
eephotog aeray10 months ago
The sag is just in the slats. The 2x4 section is the same as for the queen, and just shortened the slats. The slats only sag significantly with two people on the bed, but they don't seem to handle a point load well.

The mattress I'm getting needs a somewhat closer slat spacing as well, so I was thinking either more slats or a center brace to mitigate the bowing.

Thanks for the quick response by the way, there are an impressive number of comments in this thread.
aeray (author)  eephotog10 months ago
I'd just use more slats. Longer slats (like on the queen) give a more advantageous cantilever as well since the loads are balanced a bit better.

I published this five years ago, and it has 800,000 views, but I only get a few comments a week on average, so I can keep up.
emichael iii10 months ago
Hey, it's October 2013, and most these comments are old, but anywho, I found your plans, loved 'em, made some SLIGHT modifications if anyone new comes along and wants to try, total lumber cost at home depot was about $32 but I opened a new account and got 10% off, so it helped, the 2" wood screws came in Phillips/squarebit(I used square) the 3" came in torx(bit included).
here's what I did different- for people wanting a beefier frame, and oh yea, a LOT taller:
I just got 5- 14' 1x4's cut 15 at 4'7(like yours, just more of them) so instead of 11 slats, there's 15(a 2x4 block between each one provides "almost" perfect spacing, I had to improvise the last 3 with another 1/4" each but I chose that as the head(where the pillows will be, etc) i'm sure 11 slats are supportive enough, but this 15 makes a 6'3/260lb guy like myself feel good about it!
got the same 2-10' 2x4s for the frame(4'0 and 5'11")
but also a 12' 2x4 cut into 6 pieces 1'11"- but I must warn you, these legs make the bed REALLY tall, you might wanna go with 1'9"
I put 1 leg in each corner(long side of leg to short side of frame) and 1 leg in the middle section of each long piece of frame for some side support.
WP_20131019_003.jpgWP_20131019_004.jpg
emichael iii10 months ago
Hey, it's October 2013, and most these comments are old, but anywho, I found your plans, loved 'em, made some SLIGHT modifications if anyone new comes along and wants to try, total lumber cost at home depot was about $32 but I opened a new account and got 10% off, so it helped, the 2" wood screws came in Phillips/squarebit(I used square) the 3" came in torx(bit included).
here's what I did different- for people wanting a beefier frame, and oh yea, a LOT taller:
I just got 5- 14' 1x4's cut 15 at 4'7(like yours, just more of them) so instead of 11 slats, there's 15(a 2x4 block between each one provides "almost" perfect spacing, I had to improvise the last 3 with another 1/4" each but I chose that as the head(where the pillows will be, etc) i'm sure 11 slats are supportive enough, but this 15 makes a 6'3/260lb guy like myself feel good about it!
got the same 2-10' 2x4s for the frame(4'0 and 5'11")
but also a 12' 2x4 cut into 6 pieces 1'11"- but I must warn you, these legs make the bed REALLY tall, you might wanna go with 1'9"
I put 1 leg in each corner(long side of leg to short side of frame) and 1 leg in the middle section of each long piece of frame for some side support.
Hey, it's October 2013, and most these comments are old, but anywho, I found your plans, loved 'em, made some SLIGHT modifications if anyone new comes along and wants to try, total lumber cost at home depot was about $32 but I opened a new account and got 10% off, so it helped, the 2" wood screws came in Phillips/squarebit(I used square) the 3" came in torx(bit included).
here's what I did different- for people wanting a beefier frame, and oh yea, a LOT taller:
I just got 5- 14' 1x4's cut 15 at 4'7(like yours, just more of them) so instead of 11 slats, there's 15(a 2x4 block between each one provides "almost" perfect spacing, I had to improvise the last 3 with another 1/4" each but I chose that as the head(where the pillows will be, etc) i'm sure 11 slats are supportive enough, but this 15 makes a 6'3/260lb guy like myself feel good about it!
got the same 2-10' 2x4s for the frame(4'0 and 5'11")
but also a 12' 2x4 cut into 6 pieces 1'11"- but I must warn you, these legs make the bed REALLY tall, you might wanna go with 1'9"
I put 1 leg in each corner(long side of leg to short side of frame) and 1 leg in the middle section of each long piece of frame for some side support.
WP_20131019_003.jpgWP_20131019_004.jpg
kriskross711 months ago
Hello, I am currently living in South Africa and the two types of wood that are easily available are simply pine and 'hardwood'. Would pine be sufficient for the long pieces, since hardwood is significantly more expensive? Should I reinforce it down the middle? Thanks!
aeray (author)  kriskross711 months ago
Pine should be fine. I assume it is radiata pine. Pick nice, even grained boards with few or no knots, and it shouldn't be a problem.
Elmona11 months ago
Do you think it would work to put an air mattress on top of this? Wasn't sure if it would slide off or not be stable for some reason. Also, would it be really complicated to make this frame fold up (just in half)? I'm looking to provide a sleeping space for guests that's nicer than an air mattress on the floor but don't want it up all the time as I use the room for other things. I'm not handy at all but you are really tempting me to try this!
aeray (author)  Elmona11 months ago
Folding in half would be tough, but it is easy to lean it up against a wall. As for the mattress sliding, a few strips of rubberized shelf liner will take care of that.
edel11 months ago
I am back to this instructable because I am planning on making two more, the first one turned out great. I have moved into a new place, mon-fri, to avoid a commute and money is tight, but the two mattresses on the floor are being attacked my henious dust bunnies, so this is a critical project...a few questions.

I want to extend the length of the bed to run the full width of the room (only another foot or so) I assume that this won't be a problem, My intention is to build bookshelves onto the end of the bed, I could extend the bed with the end legs under the bookshelves, or build a seperate bookshelf unit, with legs, so that the shelves start on a level with the top of the mattress...which would you think is better?

the other question is, if I wanted to add a side piece to 'join up' the edges of the slats (I am incredibly clumsy and have already given myself a few bruises)..would I effectively make a large rectangle and screw it to a few slats?

thanks again for this brilliant instructable

AniStareva11 months ago
Hello there, I desperately need to build this bed, but the problem is I´m from Europe and do not understand the measurements of the pieces given above. I would be realy gratefull if someone here could help me and give me more "mathematical" measurments of the pieces, as for example (x)= lenght, (y)= width and (z)= heiht. Inches or centimeters wouldn´t be important, as convert between them is quite easy. OK, thanks in advance.
aeray (author)  AniStareva11 months ago
It is stupid, but in the US, a "2x4" is 1-1/2 inches thick, 3-1/2 inches wide, and whatever length you specify, in 2 foot increments. A "1x4" is 3/4 of an inch thick, 3-1/2 inches wide, and whatever length you specify, in two foot increments.
AniStareva aeray11 months ago
Thank you so much Aeray! Greetings ;)
aeray (author)  AniStareva11 months ago
Hopefully I answer your question adequately. Enjoy the project.

In the US, the stated size of lumber refers to its dimension before it is dried and planed. 1x is 1/4" thinner than the stated dimension, and 2x and larger is 1/2" thinner. Width is confusing, too. 2, 4, and 6" boards are 1/2" narrower, and 8, 10, and 12" boards are 3/4" narrower.
AlexandreZ11 months ago
I already had a boxspring which I did not want to throw away. Putting a bunch of slats in the middle felt wasteful, (the boxspring already has a bunch of slats) so I took your design as a basis and modified it. Basically, I took the frame and added a 2x4 in the middle. The end result: all the parts of my boxspring which use to sit on the floor sit on a 2x4. 4 screws attach the boxspring to the frame. (Mostly because it's now past midnight and I need to actually use the bed and I don't expect huge sheering forces parrellel to the mattress)

Of course, the end result is also that a family of 4 can live under my bed and I need to buy a step-ladder to climb on the bed. I think I'm going to salvage the slats from the boxspring (It's white pine and poorly engineered, but the slats have mostly held up for the past 3 years) and throw the rest of the boxspring away to take the bed down 8 inches. Then, I might cut another 2 inches off the legs, because everything I want to store there would still fit comfortably. (But that last one sounds like a lot of work, so I'll see how far getting rid of the boxspring gets me...)

I got home depot to cut the wood for free which was nice. (though I would suggest calling ahead. I went through 3 whose saw was broken) The whole build took me close to 4 hours. However, a good 2.5 hours of those were recharging the old drill I depended upon. (Had to recharge it 4 times) This is roughly my first project of this type. It really built my confidence and I expect the next project isn't far down the pipeline. (I need a new sword rack and traditional japanese tea tray) So thanks a lot for the recipe. (Not to mention thanks for my soon to be much less encumbered apartment...)
kmehl0411 months ago
I just finished mine today. Same dimensions, but I'm using a full sized mattress so there's less of an overhang. Also only needed two legs because there is a sturdy wooden ledge running the length of one wall in my bedroom. Lumber costs were closer to $80 in my neck of the woods (NorCal). Still, a nice beginner project for me.
socon8iv12 months ago
Made this platform today. All in, purchasing everything from a big box store (no other choice) it cost $49 and that included the screws, lumber, square and countersink. I don't own a saw (this is my first "major" project) so that price also includes the cost to cut. Also, I'm exceptionally clumsy so I didn't trust myself with a saw, :-) Had to make some adjustments because big box didn't carry the 1x4 in 14' but the only thing it affected was the height, which is still pretty good.

I've baked cookies that were more complex than this platform bed!! I was stunned, amazing, flabbergasted at how easy it was!! It took 2 1/2 hours because I pre-drilled and we modified to accommodate an old bookshelf headboard we had in the garage.

You are WONDERFUL for making these instructions so easy to follow! I'll be doing another next weekend.
aeray (author)  socon8iv12 months ago
Thanks. I'd like to see pictures with the headboard.
ndanderson1 year ago
Thanks a lot for posting these plans! Built this over the weekend. My only modification was using #9 screws since #10s weren't available in the right lenghts. I hope that won't make much of a difference. This was my first time building much of anything, but it all came together beautifully. I did have problems with the 1x4s splitting when making the legs, but I imagine pre-drilling the holes would have helped.

I really love the simple, functional style of this bed -- do you have any recommendations for books (or other instructables) that talk about building furniture in a similar way? Now that I know I'm capable of building something like this, I also want to build a desk, a hanging window planter, and a closet storage unit. Thanks again!
aeray (author)  ndanderson1 year ago
I'm glad it worked out for you. I do have a few more instructables like this. Click on my user image or search for my user name to see the others. One is for a table that could be used as a desk, and another is for a shelving system that could be modified to work in a closet.

There are some old books titled "Nomadic Furniture" (1 and 2) that I read as a kid which may have inspired my interest in this kind of thing.
Thanks a lot for the suggestions! Just what I was looking for.
cdwilson331 year ago
Did it thanks my legs are different because I had scrap 2x6
13, 4:26 PM.jpg13, 4:26 PM.jpg
I wanted to make it a loft type bed if that's possible.. Maybe 3 1/2 feet tall. I was wondering if I should use thicker wood and anything more to make it more stable
aeray (author)  Pintrest lover1 year ago
Same dimensions, but but don't make it over 4' tall.
I wanted to make it a loft type bed I wanted to make it 3 1/2 feet tall if that's possible. Do I use the same wood off something thicker?
aeray (author)  Pintrest lover1 year ago
Same dimensions, but don't go over 4' tall.
bSage1 year ago
I am going to build a loft platform for my bed. I like the simplicity of this design, would I need to add things to make this more stable at seven feet up?
jillutrup1 year ago
This looks like a fantastic project for my 14 year old's room. I apologize if I've missed them in the comments, but are the exact measurements and items to purchase available for a twin bed?
aeray (author)  jillutrup1 year ago
Subtract 20" from the shorter 2x4s, and from the slats. Subtract 5" from the longer 2x4s, and omit one slat.
spitzer331 year ago
i built this bed about a year ago for my full sized mattress. it worked great. i changed the width of the cross beam to 3'6", the original queen sized instructions call for a 4' 2x4.

Anyway, here's my dilemna. i've updated to a queen mattress and i made these modification:

I just added longer slats, but didn't change the width. I'm wondering if this will compromise something (comfort? safety?) because the slats now hang further off from the frame (3" on each side) than they would had i built the queen size bed to begin with. Any insight is much appreciated!
aeray (author)  spitzer331 year ago
Depending on your weight, and the weight of the mattress, it may be a little tippy when you sit on the edge. Structurally, it should be fine.
This may have already been asked but would you mind updating with measurements and required lumber for a king size? Also would I need a board running down the center for a king size?
aeray (author)  dingodingodango1 year ago
It is posted several times in the comments, and, yes, a center board is recommended.
Vagabond441 year ago
I want to thank you so much for this design, the ease of your steps, and your encouraging and helpful comments, all of which, the comments, that is, I read through entirely several times. We chose to make the full size frame, and cut slats down accordingly, and purchased our lumber at the local lumber yard, who were very helpful, for a total cost of 45.60. They did not have the 14 ft., so we reconfigured, and they were nice enough to cut the wood as we could not get it into the car. I took photographs of the process, and will post them and its "final reveal" when it's dressed up and ready for its photo shoot. Again, I thank you so much for such a well thought out design, and your helpful comments and how to's. Oh, we went with Spax screws which worked very well and were 7.97 a box at Home Depot.

My son built it, and is excited to build one for himself, designing some end tables, or other additions. Thanks for a wonderful family project.
nicholaix1 year ago
Don't feel bad Christy in Montana, I couldn't get these legs together either! I read through the comments and looked through my scraps for some 4x4's and sure enough I had four from another project that were close in measure. If you're like me, holding the drill correctly and the pieces at the same time is almost impossible! My tool collection is adequate but doesn't stretch to many clamps etc!
Other than that the project went together like a dream. I liked it so much I am making one for me tomorrow. My cost for the queen size was $72.50. I had the screws already but Home Depot only had #2 wood so wee bit more expensive. The boys at home depot made all the cuts for me for free because they were dying of boredom. Great beginner project, even for us single women out there. Thanks a ton for these fabulous plans.
nicholaix1 year ago
I want to build this for someone who is 6'3" and 250 lbs. Should I do any extra supports or a cross brace in the middle for a queen size bed? He's not gentle on wooden furniture but this bed would be perfect and fit my budget. I plan to modify it just a tad to attach his existing headboard and replace the bed frame which is coming apart. Thanks for making simple furniture plans I can make on a limited budget.
aeray (author)  nicholaix1 year ago
I'm 6'5" and 255 and my wife and I have been using the same one for years now (I am the author).
TXTIGER1 year ago
Great Project. Thank you.

I plan to replace the upper part of a trundle bed with this platform, but would still like to be able to slide the lower part of the trundle underneath. Before doing so, can you please let me know what the dimensions are inside the legs, on the long side?

Thank you
aeray (author)  TXTIGER1 year ago
5'-4" or 5'-2-1/2" depending on how you orient the legs. The legs aren't symmetrical, so they can be installed in two orientations.
jtan221 year ago
Well with good weather i finally went to the lumber store and got my materials. The only problem that I had is mis-calculation of 1 x4's because my store didn't have 14 footers, so I had to recalculate and missed by a couple boards. No biggie. It's built, got my mattress on and will sleep good tonight! I really like how I can hide all my junk underneath!.
gerokadon1 year ago
The measurements you made saved me a lot time! Thank you!

I went to home depot and spent $45 on materials, including the stain. The longest lengths they had for the 1x4's were 12', so I opt for the 10' to save material on the 4'7" slats. This took me 4 hours to do since I predrilled everything plus waited for the stain/seal to dry.

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kmckown1 year ago
I really like this, and after reading 480 of the comment had to commend you on your patience. lol

Here in Mexico where I am living there is a shop that sells beds that look almost the same. I will have to try to get a picture of them. They are a lot shorter and I have thought many times that I would like one but with longer legs. I would love to make one, but here am not sure where I could find decent wood and tools. I definitely will be looking now that I have your easy plans.
Thanks a million for this instructable! I finally got around to building my son his bed... he'll be 3 this month but sleeps on a queen sized bed because he moves around so much. He helped me make and absolutely loves it! I couldn't believe it was level when I turned it over... woo-hoo! This was only my 2nd ever wood working project. I made the legs only 10" from the ground so it wouldn't be too high for him in case he does roll off it. Thanks for the tutorial.... we really appreciate your time and work! :o)
aeray (author)  CraftyGemini1 year ago
Thanks.
edel1 year ago
Last weekend, I took apart a shelving unit and made a bed base for an existing mattress...I didnt like it, it was too flimsy, so I went online and found your plans...and this weekend I made one!...turns out that making a bed is a surefire recipe for happiness. I am a 45 year old woman and it took me about 2 or so hours. I had to adjust measurements a bit as a double mattress here (ireland) is about 2'' shorter and narrower than the measurements that you have.

Also the board lengths available here are in meters (although the LXW are in inches..go figure!) I had to make a few adjustments, the 4x2 was only available in 5.4m meter lengths, too short for all four sides. so I made one of the sides from 4.5x1.5 and used the excess of that board for some slats, the thicker two slats were at top and bottom, and with the mattress the thickness difference is imperceptible.

Just wondering why you say that predrilling holes was not necessary, I predrilled everything, not being as strong as your average man, I find it a lot easier to make sure that screws go in straight and tight, when it is predrilled. Plus my builders suppliers only had phillips posidrive, so predrilling made me less likely to cam them out (and none did!)

All in all it cost me approx 50e (about $64)

thank you so so much for taking the time to post this instructable.

Off now to make some underbed storage boxes from the wood I used last weekend...I have castors!
aeray (author)  edel1 year ago
Good to hear from someone outside the US and Canada. Yep, lumber dimensioning can be weird; I worked in Honduras for a bit, and we used feet, meters, and a local unit that was just less than a meter. All at once. Pre drilling was a good call since you had to use the dreaded Phillips.
I made this bed last weekend to get my wife and I up off the floor. We recently moved and are using our old bedroom furniture in the guest room. We couldn't be happier. The bed is sturdy and provides a lot of storage space. I was able to build a full (double) size bed for $61, including the purchase of a countersink bit. I had to buy the lumber from a big box store. I'm sure it could have been cheaper, if I had convenient access to a lumber yard.

Thank you so much for posting these plans.
aeray (author)  davidsidlinger1 year ago
Glad it worked for you.
Paulapower1 year ago
I made this last night in an hour for my son's room. (Queen mattress) I had Home Hardware precut my lumber and shortened the legs. Used the Robertson for the whole project. Had to predrill legs to avoid splitting. Cost including lumber and screws was 29 dollars. I have to make one for the twin bed next so will use up the rest of the screws
bedframe.jpg
aeray (author)  Paulapower1 year ago
Looks good. Thanks for the photos.
mrsmicah1 year ago
Hubby and I made a queen size bed a couple years ago for our Tempurpedic mattress. LOVE IT! Last year we made a twin size for one of our girls. (We re-used slats from clean pallets.) This weekend we'll be making another twin size for the boy. After that one is complete we are moving on to replace our queen with a KING!!!

Here's pics of the queen. I covered the tops of the slats with thick fabric just because I wanted to. I added a skirt and stapled it to the edges of the slats. I love all the storage underneath. Love how sturdy it is (we did add a couple extra pieces here and there for extra stability). Love the height!!! It makes for such a beautiful bed!

I'll try to post pics of the king size once we get it done. And maybe the kids if their beds are ever neat enough to photo!

Thanks so so much for this instructable!

(I don't know why but it looks like my photos loaded 2x... sorry!!)
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aeray (author)  mrsmicah1 year ago
Looks good. You should consider covering the slats with plastic, or sealing them, as some pallets are treated with fairly nasty chemicals. Many aren't, though.
HSue1 year ago
This is a terrific, simple design. I made a twin size version but modified the top & bottom overhang to accommodate a wrought iron head and foot board that I loved. I just simply bolted them to the 2x4's. This was a great solution to buying metal rails & a box spring, much cheaper and easy to disassemble if needed. I really didn't need to make the legs but I feel they reinforce the stability of the bed.
aeray (author)  HSue1 year ago
Glad it worked for you. Pics would be great, especially since you modded it.
Just recently finished the queen size bed. The headboard is constructed from salvaged cable spool wood I found in the desert. Love this thing! Thanks Andy!
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aeray (author)  mhendrickson1 year ago
Congrats on a trifecta. You are the first I'm aware of.
elindsey21 year ago
I read all the comments, and then went ahead and made this using the #8 screws where 2" screws were called for. So far it seems very sturdy. I made the original queen-sized version and stained it using Varathane ebony, and then added a coat of polyurethane (I dislike the look of unfinished wood.)

I'm working on a freestanding headboard project for this. We rent, so I can't bolt the headboard to the wall.

Thanks for this Instructable! I now have the base knowledge and confidence to try some of the other woodworking projects (like the shelves or the table!)
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aeray (author)  elindsey21 year ago
Thanks for the photos. Looks good. I don't know how you went about it here, but if you build the table or shelves, stain and finish the parts before assembly.
sdreiling1 year ago
Aeray, I love your plans, the simple efficient design, & the reasonable price! (single mom) Do you have any ideas about a full-sized loft bed (desk/homework area underneath)? I have been looking and everything I have found is either very overpriced or requires more tools and/or skill than I have.
tallnproud1 year ago
This was my first real wood-working project that I've done, and I loved it. Like many other commenters, I shortened the legs a bit so that our kids would be able to safely dismount, but that was it. Your instructions are clear and easy to understand. The pictures really add a layer of clarity that make it all pretty much foolproof.

I had four real takeaways from the project that I thought I'd share:
1) I have adopted your disdain for Phillips head screws after trying to drive in the first 3" screw and stripping it to kingdom come. I picked up a pack of torx head screws and didn't have any problems the rest of the project.
2) Again, following your advice, I tried using a local, privately-owned lumber yard instead of Home Depot or Lowes. I saved 50% by using the local yard.
3) I bought a speedsquare for this project, and it was worth its weight in, um... aluminum? I hadn't used one before but won't ever do a project without one.
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aeray (author)  tallnproud1 year ago
Glad you enjoyed it. Nice drawers. Speed squares are usually some kind of crappy pot metal, but sometimes aluminum or plastic. What was your fourth takeaway?
elindsey21 year ago
Hi there. Great Instructable! I am planning on building this bedframe very soon, but I am unable to find #10 2-inch screws at any of my local hardware stores. Will #8s do? Should I use an extra screw when attaching the legs if I use the #8 screws?
Built this design today exactly as illustrated except I used some slightly longer screws in places because I had them. Lumber costs set me back $47 here in the mountains of Colorado, very affordable. Can't believe how stable this bed is! In addition the under bed storage has clearance for all of our large rubber maid tubs.

Thanks again! I highly recommend this design.
aeray (author)  takenreality1 year ago
Thanks, glad you like it.
Built this design today exactly as illustrated except I used some slightly longer screws in places because I had them. Lumber costs set me back $47 here in the mountains of Colorado, very affordable. Can't believe how stable this bed is! In addition the under bed storage has clearance for all of our large rubber maid tubs.

Thanks again! I highly recommend this design.
Build this design today exactly as illustrated except I used some slightly longer screws in places because I had them. Lumber costs set me back $47 here in the mountains of Colorado, very affordable. Can't believe how stable this bed is! In addition the under bed storage has clearance for all of our large rubber maid tubs.

Thanks again! I highly recommend this design.
Jean9f1 year ago
I'm in love... with your plans, that is. I was looking for a frame plan that I could use as a starting point to modify and make a toddler bed for my granddaughter's 2nd birthday. Can't stand those plastic or metal ones that bend if an adult sits on it, which is required when reading bedtime stories. Apart from lowering it a little and sizing it to fit a crib mattress, I'm going to put a half round piece of molding spanning across the ends of the slats on one side, just to prevent possible future under-the-bed exploring mishaps (the other side will be against the wall). Can't wait to start! I'll post dimensions when I do it.
aeray (author)  Jean9f1 year ago
Glad you're excited about it. Post pics with the dimensions .
sfdenson1 year ago
I really want to try this for my daughter, however, has anyone made bunk beds using this concept??? Please let me know. Thanks
DavidAlex1 year ago
Thanks for the instructable! I modified the design by building it on 2x8s, then getting it up of the floor with leftover 1x4. The height is right for me, and I don't have any storage needs so it's perfect.
new bed-2138.jpg
I feel like an idiot because I can't seem to construct the legs in Step 6! :( I try to place the 1x4s as shown in the picture, and they just slide apart. I try to hold the boards at a 90 degree angle with my left hand while holding the screwdriver drill in my right hand, and it doesn't go in straight. When it goes in (IF it goes in for me, I mean), it splits the board on the other side. What am I doing wrong? What technique am I not understanding in this step? Should I use 2x4s instead of 1x4s for the legs and use more 3" #10 screws? Everything was going fine for me until Step 6. Help!

I am so happy to find these plans, though. It is exactly what I am looking for!
aeray (author)  christy in montana1 year ago
It's good to see a fellow Montanan on here.
Have a helper hold the boards for you, or use two small clamps to keep them aligned. I may have an easier time with things like this because I have big hands.
To prevent the splitting, try predrilling for the screws, just like you did on the 2x4s.
Let me know if you still have problems.
Thanks for the fast response, aeray! :) This is such an awesome project. I'm looking forward to needing a step stool to get in and out of bed. lol

I'll following your advice, fellow Montanan!
I see comments where other people have made king size beds using this plan... But don't see any dimensions for a California king. Could you help me figure that out? And also, would I need to add a fifth leg in the center since it is so large?
soleil1331 year ago
This is fantastic since I've been looking for high beds, so thank you so much!

I've read through the comments and did have some questions. I want to make this bed frame for a full mattress, but with longer legs; If I use 34" or 36" legs do I need to add some additional reinforcements, or just follow the rest of the directions as is? (I know you've answered this for a few people already, but I'm wondering if the 36" length will structurally compromise the bed due to its height)

I'm also the type of person to leap into bed rather than calmly sitting on it, so I'm wondering if it'd be safer to add the center support beam.

aeray (author)  soleil1331 year ago
Just add some diagonal bracing to the legs, in both directions.
This tutorial is fantastic. Do you have any recommendations for making a frame for a mattress with a boxspring? I wouldn't mind using just the mattress since it is a pillowtop and has a good height too it but, since it's a Cal King, finding a place to store the box might be problematic. I currently have a sleigh bed style that takes up way to much space and am looking for a cost-effective, space-saving alternative.
sami2701 year ago
Is this a pretty sturdy frame? It looks as if it is, but I thought I would ask.
aeray (author)  sami2701 year ago
Yup.
My king sized bed frame measures almost 4' from top of mattress! I know these pictures may make it seem like I over did it but there was a lot of wobble at that height. Now it's solid as a rock and I can watch the sun setting over the river from my bed in the evenings! Thanks for the plans & support Aeray!!
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Aloha from Kauai!

I'm so excited for this project! I plan to push the limits of your amazing design.

I have a king sized mattress dimensions: 79" x 70". So, I'm planning to make the finished frame 76" x 65" (instead of 55") to account for the extra width - easy enough.

Here's the kicker - I want to make the best use of my small "tree house" space - the big windows that overlook the river/sunset start about 47" up from the floor. I want to build the frame so that the top of the mattress is in line with the windows/ view. To do this I plan to make the top of the frame 39" H. I already plan to use 1 x 6"'s instead of 1' x 4"'s.

Do you have any other suggestions for added support? I'm pretty light (160lbs.) and the mattress is fairly light & shallow for it's size. I anticipate potential girlfriend to weigh less then me.

How much additional lumber do you recommend I order to accommodate these bigger dimensions. I know I should be able to figure this out myself but I'm not good at calculating and not exactly sure how tall your queen design is.

Thank you for your help. I plan to donate when all is said & done. Also to share photos. I'll probably have to put in a small ladder to accommodate any shorter visitors. Can't wait to share the finished product!

Aloha,

Jeremy

p.s. I've been living in a tent under a big tarp for the past few winters here so this is really exciting for me!!
aeray (author)  Green Pastures2 years ago
Add an extra long 2x4 down the centerline of the bed and attach a fifth leg to the center of it. To figure height: desired height -mattress thickness -1-1/2" = leg length.
Thank you Aeray!

How long are the legs in the queen sized frame the plans you posted are for? I suppose all I have to do to calculate how much extra lumber to buy is:

account for the extra length of the legs (plus a 5th leg), the extra 10" of width, and the extra 2x4 down center?

Thanks Again!

Jeremy

p.s. I've attached two "before" photo's of the proposed bed frame site. Please excuse the mess - just moved in :) I'll probably add a sheet of plywood to the head of bed frame - facing windows upstairs (shown above the shelves & to the right of the ladder in picture taken from "downstairs") - so that I can screw in some simple hangers for backpacks and outdoor gear. As you can see by the photos it's a small space and I have a lot of stuff so every little bit of extra storage will help!
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Please excuse my lack of grammar and allow me to try again:

How long are the legs, from floor to bottom of bed platform, on the queen sized bed frame you posted plans for? I'm asking so I can accurately calculate how much extra lumber I'll need to buy for the taller legs I plan to use. I will also calculate for my bed frame (king size) being 10" wider and requiring and extra support 2" x 4" and a fifth leg in the center.

Thank you,

Jeremy

aeray (author)  Green Pastures2 years ago
The legs in my plans are 1'-9" long, and there is a 3/4" gap between the top of the legs and the bottom of the slats.
PurpleSky2 years ago
How do I adjust the plan for a TWIN XL (80" long) mattress? Can't wait to build this one!
aeray (author)  PurpleSky2 years ago
I would make the slats 36" long, and the shorter 2x4s 32". Everything else is the same.
Here is a picture of the bed I built for my son's foam mattress. We lowered the legs significantly since he is only 3 yrs old. I cut the legs at 10". My husband even falls asleep putting our son to sleep. He says it's so comfortable and keeps the foam mattress flat and firm. Thank you for this Instructable! This was my 2nd ever woodworking project. :o)
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marlenek2 years ago
I don't know how , or why , but the materials that came home to build this were NOT cheap. Purchasing from the list , we have 91.00 wrapped up in this. I just hope it goes together well. I never seem to be able to score the same "cheap" or "affordable" as the websites say they do. It's discouraging.
aeray (author)  marlenek2 years ago
I published the several years ago, so prices may have changed a bit, but...

To keep your costs as low as possible:
1) go to the local, independent lumberyard, not a big box store.
2) buy bulk screws by the pound, not prepackage ones.
3) make sure you are getting #3 grade 1x lumber.

If you bought #1 lumber and a couple of 5# boxes of screws, $91.00 would be cheap.
tritten0072 years ago
I've scanned through a few pages of comments and am really stoked to give this a try. I'm wanting to build the platform for a couch in my playroom though, the dimensions I can handle, but do you think I will need anything extra for the weight of a couch versus just a mattress? It's a full couch, not a loveseat. Thanks in advance for the help!
aeray (author)  tritten0072 years ago
Probably not, but I'd recommend taking the legs off of the couch and building the 2x4 frame to the same dimensions as the base of the couch. If you want "floor space" in front of the couch, build a separate platform. Does this help, or have I misunderstood your question?
yankeebbq2 years ago
I needed some extra storage in the trailer I use to compete in bbq competitions. I took out the broken old futon and used your frame. Thanks for the plans.
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aeray (author)  yankeebbq2 years ago
Thanks for the pics
bwobo2 years ago
Thanks for your work and info.

I had some 2x4s at my dispoasal, so I made the whole thing with them (Queen sized). With 8 10' sticks and a couple pieces of scrap to finish off a leg and a half or so I was able to make it basically identical. Slats were a tiny bit longer and legs were a few inches shorter (~17"), still enough to clear electrical outlets on the wall and store some bins (lower profile ones). In fact, I kind of like the height a little lower. Note though, there was more waste because of how the lengths worked out. Not significant, but certainly more than what you accomplished with your design.

I was able to get by with philips head screws, as I had some, but I also used an impact driver which makes a significant difference. And only had to throw a second battery on for the last two legs.

Pictures to come soon. I have a futon mattress, this is to raise it off the floor for a temporary apartment. The futon isn't incredibly thick and I would reccommend smaller spacing between slats if you are in the same boat I am. I plan on adding a few slats this weekend.
aeray (author)  bwobo2 years ago
Looking forward to the pics.
conheidi2 years ago
Just wanted to add yet another note of thanks. We found these plans when surfing around, looking for a reasonable trundle bed for our daughter's room. Trundles are often bulky with a high profile in the back, or they have a style we weren't going for--and they're expensive to boot. We wanted a very simple bed that we could slide a second mattress under. We made an extra long twin frame and shortened the legs some so that the mattress just slides under without a lot of extra space. It's perfect! Thank you!
aeray (author)  conheidi2 years ago
Glad you found it useful. Pics?
conheidi aeray2 years ago
Hope I'm not double-posting--having problems uploading the pictures. Only thing we'd do differently is make it wider as well as longer (we did that). We've solved it by just pulling it out from the wall a bit so the lower mattress doesn't show.
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aeray (author)  conheidi2 years ago
Looks good. Thanks.
curlyqlisa2 years ago
i want to make one, king-sized. what would the dimensions/cuts be for that size???thanks.
aeray (author)  curlyqlisa2 years ago
It is discussed several times in the comments.
rkidmike2 years ago
Thanks for the great instructable!! I finished the bed today, and will be painting it tomorrow. The one thing is, I didn't think ahead to how tall it would be with my mattress on it. If I want to shorten the legs, what is your recommendation on the method? Thanks!
aeray (author)  rkidmike2 years ago
Just lop 'em off.
ksl4132 years ago
This is just what my daughter is looking for to be used in a dorm room. How high can a twin be made without extra supports? I would consider legs from 4x4s for stability as often 2+ kids sitting on bed...any comment? thanks!
Bama2win2 years ago
Everyone makes this sound so "easy." I think my daughter and I are going to attempt this on our own. Everyone else is out of the country, and we want to re-do her small bedroom. I have been all over looking for something affordable that will not be too high;yet, high enough for storage underneath (like a dorm room bed). Needless to say, we were unable to find anything in town that doesn't cost hundreds or thousands. We will be making a twin size, and I think I will ask Lowe's to precut the boards for me because I am not very confident in my ability to use my husband's skillsaw. If I understand correctly, I should shorten the slats by 5". Is this correct?
aeray (author)  Bama2win2 years ago
Just shortening the slats is for a double bed. For a twin:

Slats- 36"
Shorter 2x4- 34"
Longer 2x4- 5'-7"

Should work. I'd shorten up the legs, also, to maybe 14", depending on how old your daughter is, and how thick the mattress is.
Bama2win aeray2 years ago
Yay! Thanks so much for your quick reply. My daughter is 15, and her mattress is 7" thick. We need height, so we can store some things underneath. I think we have decided to double this and make TWO. This will allow space for some of the extra teens that usually stay over. If we are able to accomplish this task, I will upload pics.
funverza2 years ago
Hi aeray:

This looks perfect. How would the dimensions change to make a twin bed?

Fred
aeray (author)  funverza2 years ago
Slats- 36"
Shorter 2x4- 34"
Longer 2x4- 5'-7"

You may want to shorten the legs as well; I'll leave that to you.
My husband and I built two twin size versions of this bed last year to get my two daughters beds up off the floor of the room they share. Once I converted the measurements over to twin, It was an easy build - so easy my husband could do it - he's a welder by trade and doesn't have the patience for wood. They turned out great and the height on the bed allowed me to put three large bins under each for my teen daughters to store their stuff. I bought purple sequined material and used a staple gun to attach it as a permanent bed skirt. Thank you for sharing this great plan!
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I love this!! My daughter and I have been looking for something like this. I am a little concerned about converting this measurements myself. My husband is out of the country right now :( Is there anyway you could share your measurements with me?
aeray (author)  janebleu33862 years ago
Thanks for the photos.
pboulianne2 years ago
love this idea. does anyone have the specific measurements to make this in a double bed size rather than queen? my son would like to try it but we need to make it a 'no brainer'!
aeray (author)  pboulianne2 years ago
Everything else is the same, but make the slats 4" shorter.
Do you have any headboard suggestions? I want to do this bed and your book cases for my teenage son's room....
shellyZ2 years ago
do you think it would be possible to put a headboard on this bed? If I made the top of the bed flush?
I've been thinking about how do that to mine for a while and haven't quite come up with a retrofit I'm happy with yet.

One way would be to make the frame about four inches longer than necessary and use 4' or 5' 1x4s scabbed on the outside of the frame as supports and then fixing the headboard to that. You could also replace the head end legs with longer pieces but then you loose the support of that last slat and all your weight is shear force on the screws. That is potentially a bad day, though if you keep a lot of stuff under the bed you won't fall as far if the screws give out.

A simpler way (which just occurred to me) might be to make a box as wide as the mattress and as tall as you want and just screw that to the end of the frame. It only looks weird if you don't have blankets hanging far enough down to cover the "extra" legs...
Funny, I just ran across this, which would work quite nicely with this bed as well as others:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-40-headboard/
aeray (author)  shellyZ2 years ago
Sure. Or just do what hotels do: screw the headboard to the wall, not the bed.
I just ran across this instructable again and realized that I've had my platform bed almost three years and I haven't come back to thank you! It's a great write-up, and while I know enough to design a frame from scratch seeing this was the tipping point from "I could do that someday" to "Oh, that's easier than I thought. I can do that right now."

I posted a brief write-up and photos on my website a while ago, as well:

https://brushpile.wordpress.com/2010/05/14/i-build-a-monster-bed-frame/
CliffyP2 years ago
I made this! It's pretty awesome! I just have a couple notes from my experience:

1) Aeray's little rant about using Torx or Robertson screws? I should have listened. I bought Phillips screws figuring "ah, it'll be fine," and it was not fine. I wasted a lot of time and screws on stripped screwheads.

2) 1'9" legs make for a TALL bed--nearly waist height!

3) The lack of any center support bothers me. It definitely holds one person securely but I'm concerned that when my partner sleeps over we could crack those little 1x4s. I think I'm going to go back and add a 2x4 down the center and extra legs supporting it so I feel a little safer.

4) Having a good electric screwdriver would have saved me a lot of pain. I tried to do it with a cheesy little Black & Decker and ended up driving 90% of the screws by hand. Got me a good workout though.
aeray (author)  CliffyP2 years ago
Glad you liked it, and good observations. It won't break, I promise.
timbit19852 years ago
I was sure that I noticed dimensions for the slats so that you could add a 1x6 frame to enclose the bed, but I can't seem to find it. Can someone tell me how long the slats need to be so that you can frame a queen size in?
arlenyod4 years ago
 I used your basic plan to make our own king platform bed for a foam mattress. I did some improvising to make it to our liking. I am adding a picture. We are adding drawers/slide-ins on the sides. It is very solid, what my wife wanted. We will need to disassemble and reassemble in our bedroom. 
DSC00283.JPG
I like yours better. How is the foam mattress? Was thinking about it and wanted to get some feedback from someone who actually has one.
We love it. We actually put a foam topper on the foam bed as the foam bed was just a little too hard for my wife's liking. The foam topper makes the bed wonderfully soft. We bought both at Sam's Club for a fraction of the cost of the name brands. My wife's arthritis is much better. The bed is very solid. It now has slide in's (sort of like drawers with rollers) in the each side for storage. My wife has all her shoes in her side and I have assorted items in my side. My wife and I also build a headboard with fabric. We like it very much! When I get time I will take and post a picture of the bed.
Overstock.com has memory foam mattresses for even cheaper than Sam's Club or Costco. Best of all, they are delivered to your doorstep!
Thank you for responding. My wife tells me every day we need a new bed. I'm seriously looking into a foam and latex mattresses as conventional mattresses are becoming a problem for us sleeping...and we like sleeping. Thank you again for responding and I'll be looking out for those pictures.
Here is a picture of our finished bed.
DSC00420.JPG
arlenyod - what kind of wood did you use for the outside of the bed?
Love the design!
I forgot to tell you that I also built the headboard out of plywood, and my wife and I upholstered it with a deep reddish fabric. It is soft. I made the plans up in my head as I went so do not have anything written/drawn specifically.
I used a 1/2 inch plywood facing over a 2x4 frame with 1x4 slats where the mattress rests. In the cutout areas I made slide out drawers with rollers for storage. The plywood facing bears no weight whatsoever and was fastened with simple finish nails on the frame. I did not think to take pictures of the frame before I put the facing on. We have very much storage space now under the bed for my wife's shoes, extra clothing, books, etc. It is very sturdy. It is fairly high and my wife said she wishes it would just be slightly lower.
Been sleeping on a foam mattress for 5-6 years with no problems but an excess of comfort
Would you be willing to share your plans? This is the closest to what I want that I have found anywhere on the interenet. I want to be sure that it is supported enough for a king bed, and I like the lip to hold the mattress in place. I don't need the instructions for the storage. We want to keep it simple.
Thank you!
hi! can someone share dimensions for building a california king platform, preferably the easiest way! thank you
aeray (author)  arlenyod4 years ago
Nice work, and thanks for the photos.
I'm having a hard time reading through all your jargon- like, your pictures make it look incredibly easy but reading the instructions is difficult.

So, please correct me where I'm wrong. Is this what I'm going to do:
With all this wood I'll make a square-ish frame.
The legs will be put together with a little reinforcer block.
The slats will be placed across the bed as even as possible.
I'll have to make the slats and legs by cutting some of the original lumber.

Is that right? This makes much more sense to me than all your steps put together. Perhaps it's because I know that I'm going to have my lumber pre-cut- can I just skip right to the assembly part?

Thanks!
aeray (author)  euqinomdrawoh3 years ago
Correct, mostly. The only thing you misunderstood is the small block of wood. It is not a reinforcement block, it is a temporary spacer to keep the end grain of the legs from rubbing against the underside of the slats. It is removed once the leg is attached and used to space the next leg, and the next, and the next. Otherwise, yeah, that's the gist of it.
Okay, I see. I think there's a picture in your instructions that I can use for reference. I usually put things together from the picture and less from the directions. I'm building this bed for my first (yay!) apartment and was inspired by how quickly everyone, even novices, seemed to put this together. As I was reading through your instructions though, in my mind this turned into a weekend project! Glad to know that my simplistic view could get the job done. Do you have any tips that can help me while maintaining this simplistic view?

Also, it seems as if I'll be using a Philips drill and screws... I don't think I'll be able to afford a whole different type of screws and a special drill. You attest that they really suck- how can I make them not suck as much?

Thanks again!
aeray (author)  euqinomdrawoh3 years ago
You can't, unless you predrill and countersink every hole, but star/torx screws and drivers are cheap. Here is a link for 100 3" #10 screws for $11, and here is a link for a star/torx driver bit for $2. If you buy them by the pound or each, locally, they'll probably be even cheaper.

Here is a link for an appropriate countersink, for $7.70, but you'll still have to buy the actual 13/64" drill bit to go with it.
AdrianaG aeray2 years ago
Thanks for the links! A few questions about hardware and tools:

1. Your materials list calls for 66 #10 2" screws and on 8 3" screws, but I don't see any of the 2" ones on the linked site. Are you using all 3" screws?

If we do need 2" ones, can you recommend a source? (I've checked Lee Valley and Woodcraft and don't see 2" ones there either).

2. Is a regular drill OK to use with the torx screws or is there a better tool to use with them?

3. Is the 13/64" drill bit a standard bit, or is there something special about it?

aeray (author)  AdrianaG2 years ago
McFeeleys is the best screw provider. A regular drill is ok; a cordless impact driver is better. The bit is a standard size.
AdrianaG aeray2 years ago
In their star drive product list here http://www.mcfeelys.com/screwlist.aspx?sclass=FTY they only show a #8 2" screw or a #10 2.5" screw. Which would be better?
aeray (author)  AdrianaG2 years ago
Either will work. Go with the cheapest. If you use the 2.5", you may have to pre drill the legs.
AdrianaG aeray2 years ago
Great. Tthis leads to one more question - does going with #8 2" screws change the countersink or 13/64" drill bit recommended above?
aeray (author)  AdrianaG2 years ago
Yes. You will need a #8 countersink. I can't remember the bit size off hand. Most countersinks come with the correct bit; the one in the
Ink I provided is an exception to the rule.
VKoppel2 years ago
Is there anyway to make the legs longer so that I can have more storage space underneath?
aeray (author)  VKoppel2 years ago
Sure. Cut the boards longer. If you want to go longer than 32" or so, you should add diagonal braces, though.
wahela5 years ago
I'm so impressed. I've been making these little square bedside tables out of 1 x 4s and putting mosaic tile on the top. I have a chop saw, a drill and a lot of handtools. I have a spare room that is so small, and has a closet filling a corner and its way too small for a queen sized bed. I was looking for a futon when I found your site. I'm going to make a twin size bed frame this weekend, then I'll add a twin size mattress, and voila! My room will look great!
aeray (author)  wahela5 years ago
Great! I'd like to see pictures, with bedside tables included, of course.
wahela aeray5 years ago
I read somewhere in here that you suggested redwood for the frame part. I just checked with my lumberyard (in Iowa) and they would have to special order redwood, because its so expensive. At their price in redwood, the bed would cost well over 100 dollars. They do have cedar, and they have s4s cedar 2x4 and 2x6. Would that be strong enough? What about regular hemfir? Then cedar for the 1x4s? . Thanks for your help.
aeray (author)  wahela5 years ago
I only suggested that to someone that wanted to use it outdoors. Just use "#3 and better" pine for the slats (the 1 x 4's) and #2 and better hem-fir or pine for the 2 x 4's. Just go with the cheap stuff.
wahela aeray5 years ago
Thank you thank you thank you thank you! I have found the best invention known to all humankind. The torx screws. LOL. I am an expert at stripping philips head screws, I have a horrible time with them. I put them in the hold, turn on the screwdriver , and it goes all the way in and tight. I'm laughing now, because I've always thought I was a total clutz, the only reason I made those little tables out of 1x4s is because I bought a small air finish nailer and a cheap compressor. I have about half of the bed top done now. I just measured the holes from the end of the 1x4, and drilled both holes in an assembly line fashion and it is going to gether very easily. I'll certainly send a pix of a 57 year old clutz's futon bed. That is something you can be proud of. lol. About half done with the top and my screwgun battery started running down. Back to work! Lee Ann
aeray (author)  wahela5 years ago
Thanks for the update, and it sounds like you are having fun! Phillips head screws are evil, evil things. We await the photos.
wahela aeray2 years ago
Its been almost three years and I still have my bed in the spare room. Its been used by a lot of people,, some visiting from out of state, some are nurses that couldn't get home due to blizzards, etc. Its got a cotton mattress on it, and they look at me a bit skeptically when I explain its a futon with a cotton mattress. But everybody loves it They all have said how well they sleep on that bed.

I am disabled now, retired. I have a big couch overstuffed with huge cushions filled with stuffing. The dogs have ruined it totally. Its only about 5 years old, and beat to heck I am going to get rid of that couch and make another twin size bed frame with another cotton mattress. I'm going to add a railing or two to the backside, sand it down and stain it dark , or paint it espresso brown, and take all of my thousands of pillows an place many of them on the back on the rail side. I like it too, because my knees are bad and I can get up easily from the bed in the spareroom, so it will make things easier for me too. I get my grandson to help, and he learns something too I have used those screws now for three years. I'll never go back to a Philips screw head. Thanks again, 3 yearslater. Lee Ann
I'm really new to woodworking and looking at this bed for my 8 year old twins in the twin size, I am trying to figure out what size I should make the frame and the length of the slats. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
nikNack2 years ago
hey quick question, is it ok if i get the wood pre-cut before i take them home?
aeray (author)  nikNack2 years ago
Sure, why not? (as long as it is cut accurately)
nikNack aeray2 years ago
ok.. im super excited to try this!!! will post pictures :)
aeray (author)  nikNack2 years ago
Please do.
nikNack2 years ago
question, can i get the lumber pre-cut in the store?
I will be making this for my daughters twin mattress and adding a picket fence headboard! :D
aeray (author)  DesignerUserName2 years ago
Please post pics. Thanks.
sbdw10102 years ago
Hello,

I found your page and plan on making this in the next few weeks. I can't seem to find the specific directions on how to make it. Any help would be great.
aeray (author)  sbdw10102 years ago
What are you wanting to make? What can't you find plans for?
Even-O2 years ago

Thanks SO much for the well written/well-explained post (not to mention all the helpful comments and questions you inspired)!

I wonder if you could advise me about how to use your design to build a platform to hide a king bed underneath, rather than hold a mattress on top???

I have a super comfy king sized mattress which I'm using as a guest bed in my son's small bedroom (it is only about twice as wide as a king mattress).

Right now it takes up too much floor space. I'd like to build a platform that my kids can play on, and that I can store the mattress under when it’s not in use.

I'm thinking that I could use your design, but with a few changes:
1) increase the frame width, so the mattress can slide in and out
2) put plywood on top rather than slats (or slats plus plywood if it’s necessary for strength)
3) Use a vertical 1x4 down the center for support like bhamilton80

So here are the questions:
1) Could this work?
2) Do you think I should add anything to make it sturdy enough for kids to play on?
3) Any other advice?

I know you’ve heard this 525 times before but...thank you for sharing your expertise!!

*I've attempted to include a pic to give you an idea of what I'm hoping to achieve. It's the second pic on this site: http://www.minimalisti.com/bedroom/12/furnishing-a-small-children%E2%80%99s-bedroom.html
hide platform bed.jpg
aeray (author)  Even-O2 years ago
Do-able, definitely. Use 2x6 for the rails and omit the slats. Use additional 2x6s, edgewise, spanning between the longer rails, on 24" centers, and top it with plywood. Think "miniature deck on legs".
Even-O aeray2 years ago
Thanks for your reply!  I finished before I heard back, so I'll just have to cross my fingers that 2x4s will suffice.  We attached everything using brackets and added removable kickstand-style legs to the front.  The bed fits under one side and there's room for storage on the other.  Still working on decorations...but it's SO WONDERFULLY functional!  Thanks for the inspiration!
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devells2 years ago
Just built this frame for the second time in a year. Thanks so much for the plans! I built it in Boston a year ago, then just moved to DC, and instead of moving it with me, since I had limited space, I decided just to build it again when I got here. It's cheaper than a cheap Ikea frame, it's pretty much just as easy to put together, and I can feel proud of building it myself. Thanks!

Also, second time around I shortened the slats a little bit, as well as the legs - slats are 4'5" and legs are 1'7", so I was able to buy 6' 1x4s and have no waste for 8 slats and all 8 legs! And my storage bins still fit underneath! I appreciate your attention to waste, I probably wouldn't have given it as much thought as it deserves, being an ultra beginner at this stuff.
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devells devells2 years ago
Oh and with the old frame, my roommates repurposed it by taking the legs off, adding boards in the spaces, staining it, and using it as a small deck in a small Boston yard. Pretty cool!
Even-O devells2 years ago
Thanks for posting Devells! I'm looking to use the bed as a platform...has the deck been in place for a while? How is it doing?
devells Even-O2 years ago
Yeah about 6 months when I left the house, closer to 9 now probably. One note - the "deck" is resting on ground on one side and I think cinder blocks or stones on the other, so it is not really suspended off the ground much at all. That being said it was incredibly sturdy and never once shifted or made any noises when walking over it. We spent the summer grilling while standing on it.
aeray (author)  devells2 years ago
Extra points for reuse.
brink.scott2 years ago
Here's a slight modification for a king size with center supports, slat width and spacing, that fall within the warranty requirements for a Tempur-Pedic mattress. (4" or wider slats with no more than 2" spacing)

Also it's split like a typical king's two box springs (to fit through doors and halls). Connect them with flat brackets between the slats along the center.

Slats are 5.5" (1x6) with 1.75" and 2" spacing. Head slat is flush (for optional headboard) and slats come 1" short of actual king on each side and foot for slight mattress overhang. (79" long x 74" wide) Corners of foot slat can be rounded if desired.

I used : (22) 1x6x4 and (8) 2x4x8 (lengths were optimal for what was available to me, but admittedly resulted with more waste than the author would advocate).

The legs centered down the lengths are singe pieces of 2x4's while the rest of the legs are 2 pcs 1x6 as per original plans. I made them all 8" long for a total bed height of 9 1/2" because I have a 14" mattress and my dog has to be able to get up. I wasn't worried about storage space. Change the 8" to whatever you want ( be sure to add 1 1/2" to the leg height to calculate finished height)

The only thing not on the design is screw holes, just make sure that you don't drill into a spot that already has a screw from a previous join or you'll run into it. Offset and choose the screw lengths accordingly. I believe the original author factors that in with his instructions regarding marks and screws and materials.

Google sketch up : If you don't have it and you're here, then you should get it. It's a free CAD program with user friendly interface.

Email me & I send you my sketch up file, dimensioned and layered. brink.scott@comcast.net.

I don't know if I can post it directly. Heres some screenshots for now,
Untitledw.jpgUntitledw.jpg
aeray (author)  brink.scott2 years ago
Good info. Thanks. You should be able to link directly to a sketchup file. Frazeeg did it a while ago for another design.
vjdoro2 years ago
Me again, reposting re: pics didn't work, gonna retry, thanks
105_2284.JPG105_2285.JPG
aeray (author)  vjdoro2 years ago
Thanks for the photos.
jahburt2 years ago
Has anyone tried making the legs longer? My daughter's new apt in NY has a closet sized bedroom -would like to raise to about 3 1/2 feet to put low dressers underneath Would it still be stable? Thanks!.
aeray (author)  jahburt2 years ago
Diagonal braces on the legs would be advisable.
nininja2 years ago
Other than waste, is there a reason to use the legs you describe instead legs made of 4x4s? I'm very novice, so I apologize if this is a dumb question.
aeray (author)  nininja2 years ago
Waste is the primary reason, and a 4x4 is overkill for the load it will be under. A 4x4 is also difficult to cut cleanly with a skilsaw without some practice, because it takes two passes. If you have some 4x4 around, and some confidence, or a bigger saw, by all means, use it.
bhamilton802 years ago
Finished a king size version of this today. I really enjoyed this project!

I used eleven 72" 1x4 slats (which didn't need to be cut because they came at that six foot length).
Made the frame 71" x 68" (cut out of two 12 foot 2x4's.)
Used four 16" legs (8 pieces cut out of a 12 foot 1x4).
I put a 71" 1x4 vertically down the center for support, attached it to the frame with two screws and to the middle slat with two screws.

There was VERY little waste with this project. Total cost in materials was about $70. I'm really pleased with the way it turned out. It feels very sturdy and I have a really heavy king size mattress. One thing I would recommend is making sure to have a few extra screws in each size in case you bore out a screw or two. I used square drive screws and they worked great.

Thanks for this design Aeray!!

-Brian
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Thanks for posting. I also want to try the king size design. I'm curious to know if yours squeaks from the slats rubbing that center support beam.

Looks like you screwed only the middle slat to the support which means the rest of the slats are just resting on top of it. Seems like it would be possible to get some squeaking from those loose, wood-on-wood contact points. Thanks!
Hi! No squeaks at whatsoever! I would try doing it the way I did first and if you do have squeaks go back and screw them all in. But, I haven't had any. Also, I ended up swapping out the 1x4 I used for middle support for a 2x4. The 1x4 cracked a little bit and I would highly recommend using a 2x4 as the middle support.
Why thank you good sir! Have you noticed a "hard spot" from using the 2x4 instead of the 1x4?

The author posted this comment earlier is why I ask:
"Quite sure of the sturdiness of this queen-sized bed. For a king, though, I would upgrade the slats to #2 and better grade lumber, and be careful to get ones that were knot-free. I might also put a 1x4 on edge under the slats at the centerline of the bed. I think that a 2x4 would make a hard spot in the bed."

Also, what kind of mattress do you use? I'm thinking about using a spring mattress with about medium firmness.
That comment is exactly why I started with the 1x4. I definitely haven't noticed a hard spot in the bed from the 2x4. Maybe it depends on the mattress? I have a really heavy thick mattress. At any rate the 1x4 wouldn't hold up for me so I had to go with the 2x4. It feels super stable and is totally comfortable.
Here is the finished product. I couldn't be happier with the way this turned out. Made my cuts the same as bhamilton80 (above) and went with the 2x4 for the center support. I don't notice any hard spots or sqeaking...this thing is solid.

The instructions on here are great. I'd add that for the king size, when making the 2x4 frame, the 71" pieces go inside the 68" pieces so the dimensions of the frame when its put together are 68" x 74"

As for the center support, I screwed all the slats into it because I had a bunch of screws left over and it rattled a little without them screwed down.

If you're concerned about a hard spot in the middle (as I was) the author suggested leaving a 1/2" space between the support and slats "to allow but limit deflection." I tried it both ways and couldn't tell the difference, so for me there was no need to space them apart. I'd rather not give my brand new mattress any excuses to start sagging in the middle so I fastened the support directly to the slats. For reference, I'm on a continuous innerspring pillow-top mattress that sits directly on this frame. Perhaps your mattress is differenent and might need the space is the only reason I mention it.

Compared to a box spring with metal frame this project is definitely cheaper (spent $60 total), feels more sturdy, leaves you with more room underneath (about 6" more), and if you're like me this will teach you a thing or two by doing it yourself. Yeah its heavier and harder to move around but easily doable with a helper.
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aeray (author)  roaringmudbutt2 years ago
Thnks for the pics. It looks like you used higher quality lumber. I hope it works out well for you.
It was all No.2 grade. from Lowes. I also got some furniture sliders there and stuck them under the legs and now one person can easily push this bed around. Still very pleased.
I've had it 4 months now and still love it. I added a 5th leg in the center because the king size is just so big and I didn't want my new mattress caving in the middle like the last one. The extra leg did firm the middle up a bit, but its still super comfortable so I'm leaving it on there.
malles2 years ago
A "even less waste" question. For a king sized build, could the long sides of the box frame use 72" (even 6 ft) instead of the 71" that seems to be what several people used? So external measurements of the box frame would be 75'' by 68' when the 72" lenghts are "inside" the 68" cross members.
vjdoro2 years ago
Me again, a note about waste, had a few more pieces of wood left than your design, primarily because I would have had to special order the 14' length 1x4's. I've decided to find ways to use the remainders, on other projects, so there won't be any waste at all in the long run, thanks again
vjdoro2 years ago
Made this bed, Queen sized, only mod. was a center support offset by the width of a scrap of 1x4, same as the legs and we used more slats. We have a heavy Euro top mattress and our combined poundage is about 500. We love the bed, its very strong, sturdy. We did have to pre-drill the pilot holes for all the screws, must be something about amateur status, just found it a lot easier going. Forgot to take pics before making the bed. shown pics, dressed bed and one corner with skirt lifted up. Hardest part of this project was moving stuff out of the way in our little room 10x12'. Over all to build the bed after buying the materials and making room to build it, it took just over 3 hours, and that included cutting and screwing 6 extra slats. It cost 50 for the wood and another 17 for the screws, had to buy more than we needed of the screws, will use for another project, we did get the torx head screws through McFeeley's because couldn't find the right size/length locally, only took 2 days to get the screws and 1 dollar shipping charge. Thanks for the great design, we are going to make another one soon for daughter's queen bed, but we'll stick with your original design, lots less weight on that bed. :)
I am looking at the page with the queen bed frame. Could someone tell me where I can get the size info for the wood I would need to build a full size one.
Thank you!
Elaina742 years ago
My husband and I are a bit on the plump side (okay large) but we are getting ready to buy a new mattress and instead of spending $300 on an ikea bed how can we reinforce your bed plans. I love the fact that I would be able to store so much stuff under it. Please advise thank you :)
theresah2 years ago
I love my bedframe--I built it over a year ago. But the legs are not sturdy. Do you have any suggestions for re-enforcing them? Using 2x4's instead, or attaching another "layer" of legs on the outside?
eb36042 years ago
Hi Aeray, I'm planning on building the bed soon and want to build out the frame to enclose the mattress similar to what user, Cheesesticks, did. I attached a sketch of what I want to do. I plan on attaching the two frames together with carriage bolts and screwing two 1 x 2s to the bottom. I am concerned about the strength of the exterior frame, particularly the exterior's sides. Do you have any suggestions?
Queen_Bed_Frame.jpg
aeray (author)  eb36042 years ago
Definitely strong enough. Don't bother with the carriage bolts; just use screws. Post pics when you get it built. You might consider omitting the two extra crosspieces underneath, and simply extend a few of the slats to the full 60" width and attach the sideboards to them.
bnolsen5 years ago
What does this look like with a mattress on it. A queen sized mattress by spec is 60x80, but the measurements of the slat width and frame are 55x74 (without the length overhang), which is more like a full sized matress at 54x75. Is this frame big enough to put a queen sized foam mattress on? How much will the mattress overhang this by? I'm just getting ready to pull the trigger on building one of these for my daughter's room. After that I'd build this in a king size, but add an extra 2x4 in the middle length wise and also perhaps add single 1x4 (or 2x4) legs at the ends of this piece for extra bracing of the slats. If there's a better suggestion for king?
aeray (author)  bnolsen5 years ago
This is for a queen size mattress. It hangs over 2-1/2" on either side so that the slat ends don't show to bump your legs on or look at. Scroll down through the comments and you can find answers to the rest of your questions, including exact king measurements and photos from Synaptic, and photos of "At29035ft"s bed with and without mattress.
I would love to make this bed in a king size, but I have scrolled through as you mentioned and can not find the instructions/measurements for king size. I would greatly appreciate them.
aeray (author)  instructablesmar2 years ago
Unfortunately, there are twenty-one pages of comments for this 'able, and no way to search them. Did you look at all of the comment pages?
brinbull2 years ago
This is a simple desing, I love simple. My only concern would be damaging a floor with the legs. I'd just take some carpet samples, cut them to size and attach to the bottoms of the legs with gorilla glue, or something similar.
KAF3272 years ago
Thanks for the instructions! I've never really built anything before and figured I should start somewhere. This was the perfect project.

I tend to be sort of a dreamer, so this bed took way more than an hour. Had a blast making it and did a blog post below:

http://myotherbackyard.wordpress.com/2012/01/04/once-i-made-a-bed/


joby5602 years ago
OK, Here is the photo of the bed. I made it extra high! Higher than I thought. We can lay in bed and look out the window. I am groovin' on that and the jumbo storage space underneath!
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juice4842 years ago
instead of marking the long side board with all your layouts after the frame is assembled, do it before you screw and brace it. Then you can lay the 2 adjacent pieces next to each other and transfer the marks on one to the other with a square. This will make it easier and more accurate to create the mirror image.
I built this over the summer and my mattress is sinking in the center. My wife and I are under 400 pounds combined. It is amemory foam matress and it is a new mattress. Please help.
aeray (author)  mmdavis526072 years ago
What size of bed did you build, and what species of lumber did you use? The simple fix would be to add another 2x4 support at the centerline of the bed, under the slats.
I have a queen size. How do I attach it? I have seen you write to leave a 2 inch gap between the top boards and the center support, is this correct. Otherwise I love the bed. Thanks for your help!
aeray (author)  mmdavis526072 years ago
1/4" to 1/2" gap; end screw it through the foot/head supports.
hisironlung2 years ago
Made this about a month ago in full and totally love it. My roommates might build them too! I was wondering if anyone had attempted to build some sort of minimal attached nightstand? Was thinking about tackling that but wanted to see if anyone else had already...thank you for the great instructable!
aeray (author)  hisironlung2 years ago
The easiest method, and the one I used, is to remove the top two slats and replace them with a 10' 1x12. Done.
Shoot. That is brilliant. Have you seen any other designs?
aeray (author)  hisironlung2 years ago
I recall seeing another design or two, but there are 12 or 13 pages of comments for this Instructable, so you'll have to parse them yourself. Enjoy!
Some scrap wood and 40 minutes later...
photo (2).JPGphoto.JPG
aeray (author)  hisironlung2 years ago
Excellent work, thanks for the photos.
Thanks for the wonderful bed.
aeray (author)  hisironlung2 years ago
Sleep tight.
joby5602 years ago
Holy Cow! I just whipped this bed up this morning. Easiest thing I have ever done and I am not a builder by any stretch of the imagination.

I wanted it to be taller. So, i made the legs 24 inches tall. yep, you have to ho into the bed, literally. I am going to add brace boards at the bottom of each side to stabilize the bed with the added height.

Love the plans. Thanks for sharing!
aeray (author)  joby5602 years ago
Glad ya liked it; please post photos if you have them.
orksecurity2 years ago
Pondering building one of these myself.

One interesting side point of your design, especially since you went glueless: If the owner later decides they don't need it, a lot of that lumber might be recycled for future projects. Which, among other things, makes this a reasonable stopgap design while one decides

Another alternative would be to adapt the design used on my current platform, which is essentially an I-frame base (ply all the way across top and bottom of base, with a solid (MDF) piece the same width connecting their centers; MDF half-decks on top of that (styleishly overhanging the base); they added solid wood trim around the edges to prettify the visible surfaces and hide the fact that it was sheet goods. As with yours, that design leaves clear space underneath for "drawers" resting directly on the floor. One advantage: they designed it with T-nuts and bolts, which makes it easier to knock down and reassemble. (Yes, the screws in yours could be pulled and re-driven, but that's significantly

Could also split the difference: Build yours, and dress it up a bit. Round the corner of the legs (no cost, just work), run a decorative edge around the outside edge. (would significantly increase total lumber cost.)

Or I may just throw money at the problem and go with commercially made after all. But I definitely appreciate your posting this and giving me the option.

gregr3 years ago
I used cheap coarse thread drywall screws to put my bed together and about 1 year later managed to _break_ the four screws attaching one of the legs to the frame.

Moral: Use good quality screws...
screws 2.jpgscrews 1.jpg
aeray (author)  gregr2 years ago
Yep. +1.
Drywall screws really are suitable only for holding drywall, or for temporary jigs. They're great for the purpose they're intended for, but the same decisions which make them cheap and fast-driving also make them more fragile.

"You may not always get what you pay for, but never count on getting what you don't pay for."
cglisson22 years ago
The last comment left appears to have been in 2009...Well it's 2011 and I followed these plans today and modified it for a full size version. Thanks for the detailed plans!
aeray (author)  cglisson22 years ago
The last comment was actually in the last day or two, but authors can "flag" comments so that they stay at the top of the queue, regardless of posting date.

You're welcome, and I'm glad it worked out well for you.
wisd0m3 years ago
(removed by author or community request)
aeray (author)  wisd0m3 years ago
The slat should bow some. If you think they are bowing too much (more than 3/4" or so) by all means add another long 2x4 on edge to the center of the frame BUT attach it 1/4" to 3/8" lower than the two 2x4's on the outside edges to allow, but limit, the deflection. If you attach it in the same plane as the others, the bed will have a "hard spot" in the middle and will be uncomfortable. Additional legs shouldn't be necessary.
wisd0m aeray3 years ago
(removed by author or community request)
aeray (author)  wisd0m3 years ago
How much weight? More than 500-600 lbs?
wisd0m aeray3 years ago
(removed by author or community request)
aeray (author)  wisd0m3 years ago
You should be fine, no extra legs needed. I am a big guy 6'-5" and 250lbs, my wife is not petite, and our futon mattress is awkwardly heavy itself.
wisd0m aeray3 years ago
(removed by author or community request)
aeray (author)  wisd0m3 years ago
Great!
wisd0m aeray3 years ago
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aeray (author)  wisd0m3 years ago
Looks good. Hopefully you can keep the rugrat out from under it. Let me know how it works out.
wisd0m aeray2 years ago
(removed by author or community request)
aeray (author)  wisd0m2 years ago
No problem. Try the bookshelves or table next.
Great write up Aeray. I want to do the king size version but this comment has me scratching my head.

I don't want a "hard spot" but I don't want the mattress to sag in the middle either. The consensus seems to be that a center support beam is necessary for the king size. If that's the case, should I leave space between the slats and the support beam as suggested above? Or should I do it like Synaptyc and Bhamilton80 who appeared to "attach it in the same plane as the others"?

Also, with the addition of the center support I'm worried sqeaking might become an issue with all the slats rubbing it. Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated because I'm still new at this.

I really enjoyed reading all the comments and I'm glad you kept up with this and answered as many questions as you have! This has to be one of the most helpful parts of this instructable. I'll be sure to post pics and let you know how it turns out
aeray (author)  roaringmudbutt2 years ago
Thanks. Personally, I'd make the center support about 1/2" lower than the slats. If you choose not to, I still don't think squeaking will be an issue, because the slats only move up and down at the center point, not side to side.
bhamilton802 years ago
Aeray - Thank you for this! I'm planning to build this in the king size. I found the dimensions for a king in the comments. I want to make this lower to the ground but not as low as just omitting the legs. So, I'm thinking about using 2'x8''s for the frame so it will sit off the ground a little more, but still won't require adding any legs. What do you think? Would that work?
aeray (author)  bhamilton802 years ago
That should work fine, but it would probably be cheaper to buy an 8 foot 1x4 to make some some stumpy little legs out of, rather than upgrading to 2x8 for the whole frame.
Thanks aeray. One other quick question. Since it's a king I"m going to add a 1x4 vertically down the middle of the frame for some middle support. Should I screw in the slats to the middle support or only attach the slats to the original portion of the frame? I don't want to waste a bunch of screws if it's unnecessary. Thanks so much. -Brian
aeray (author)  bhamilton802 years ago
I might attach the middle slat only to the support, with two screws, to help prevent twisting deflection of the middle support.
Good point! Thanks! I'll let you know how it goes and post some pics when it's done.
amcjap2 years ago
I can't wait to do this with my husband next weekend. We need two low twin beds that will serve as extra seating for kids in a large media room we have.
It will also double as a king bed when family and friends come to visit which is a lot.

Do you have measurments for a twin and do you have any suggestions based on how we will be using the beds. I will post pics when we're done. Thanks!!!
dho15222 years ago
Can you please give me measurements for a King size? I browsed the comments but didnt see any, im sure they are there somewhere though. I have not dont any woodwork since high school woodshop so if you could put it in laymans terms I would much appreciate it. I really want to build this

Thanks!
aeray (author)  dho15222 years ago
Remember, this Instructable has 11 pages of comments:


Nov 26, 2008. 11:18 AMSynaptyc says:
I built my KING Platform from this design. I scaled it up just a bit.
The end result is perfect! I have a Memory Foam mattress (4 layer) and the height is great. Not too high... and not too low. In fact, We have 12"s of clearance to put storage bins under the bed.
Total time to build:
Cuts = 20 minutes (talking to father as we cut.)
Assembly = 1 hour and 15 minutes. (while watching a Titans game)
[below are my measurements]
cut (2) 2x4's @ 68" (run horizontal for top and bottom)
cut (3) 2x4's @ 71" (run vertical. third one is for middle support)
cut (10) 1x4's @ 16" (made 5 legs. 5th goes in the center of the middle support)
cut (11) 1x4's @ 72" (slats)
I used phillips screws and had no issues.

THANK YOU FOR THIS DESIGN!!! The Bed is as sturdy as any factory job.
So simple.
dho1522 aeray2 years ago
Awesome, thank you so much
Zofox2 years ago
Found this instructible a long time ago and told myself that I wanted to build this. Moved to a new home recently with much less storage space and found that I NEEDED to build this. And I finally did. It is awesome.

Used Synaptyc's measurements (thank you!) for the king size, and made some slight changes with the weight of myself (6' 5" and 290#), my two dogs (150#+), my wife (5' 3" and 110#) and the mattress (Tempurpedic - weighs a TON)....

Used 1x6's as the slats with a 1x4 as a spacer so no measuring or marking needed after setting the first one - just butt the boards up square, and screwed them in. Best part? Slats needed no cutting! (6' lengths)

Used 2x4's as the legs (L's in the corners, and an H in the center). 18" of underbed storage. NICE.

This thing is rock solid. It feels like I could park a car on it. Yet is easily moveable, and doesn't make a SOUND. No squeaks like my old boxsprings.

Aeray, this is awesome. 5 stars. I will be building this for all of my close family members whenever they need a bed frame.

And yes, Torx screws are a godsend.
aeray (author)  Zofox2 years ago
Thanks, and my apologies for the tardy reply. Pics?
SLYcrafts2 years ago
~
I LOVE this!!!

I live in a most beautiful area, Funeral Mountains right out my door. I crafted a outdoor living room and have been longing for an outdoor bedroom, the Sky is so beautiful here.

This is just what I needed... Thank you.


Sly
aeray (author)  SLYcrafts2 years ago
You're welcome. Pics?
tamara_h2 years ago
Hi! this plan looks great and I'm getting ready to build the full size version, but I am unsure about the dimensions:

I noticed that in one of the comments you said that for the full size the only necessary modification is taking 5" off of the slats. this puts them at 4-2".
However without changing the size of the frame's width, it remains at 4-0",
which only leaves 2" between the frame and the end of the hanging slats.

Should I also take 5" off of the frame's width? (changing it from 4-0" to 3-7")?

The dimensions I'm planing to work with are:
(11) 1x4 4'-2" [slats]
(8) 1x4 1'-9" [legs]
(2) 2x4 4'-0" [frame, width (take 5" off?)]
(2) 2x4 5'-11" [frame, length]

Sorry if this sounds ignorant, I've never done any carpentry before and I was gonna have the wood cut for me at a lumberyard and just wanted to double check the dimensions before they cut it for me.

Thanks so much!
aeray (author)  tamara_h2 years ago
The frame width/dimensions remain the same. All that changes is the length of the slats.
tamara_h aeray2 years ago
I built the bedframe this weekend. It turned out great and it was really fun building it. My only trouble was with the screws/drilling, which cracked the wood twice (once on the 2x4 and once on the leg's 1x4, i added a picture of the cracked wood) but it didn't seem to have made considerable damage.

I would really appreciate your input on why this would happen and how it can be avoided. Does it mean that I didn't drill well? that the wood is of a lower grade? (the hardware store I went to didn't have the exact size and types screws so I ended up using 9x3 and 8x2 square recess "deckfast" screws, would this be a problem in the long run?)

I have done no carpentry before and was being really pedantic about triple-checking every measurement and marking so it probably took a little longer, but this tutorial is written so well that it made it really really easy for someone like me who has no prior experience with carpentry.

I made the full size version and ended up using these measurements: slats - 49", legs 11" (there is a low shelf by the bed and I didn't want the mattress to end up above it), and for the frame dimensions changed it to 66x45 (my mattress is on the smaller size, 74x53, so 45" width allows for 2" overhang for the slats, and then 2" over hang for the mattress. 66" leaves 2" overhang for the mattress length as well).

In case anyone is interested in building a full size version the cut list reads: (11) 1"x4"x49", (8) 1"x4"x11", (2) 2"x4"x45", (2) 2"x4"x66"

I had the best day building this, thanks for a great tutorial!
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tamelita2 years ago
this looks great. i would like the measurements for a twin sized bed for my 3 year old granddaughter. thanx
esrun3 years ago
Hey Aeray,

Thanks for such simple to follow instructions. I managed to make the bed and I'm pretty happy with it.

I had a bit of a nightmare with the wood because nowhere around here does pieces longer than 8 ft. (Philippines). The total price of the wood was $70.

It was hard enough getting the right length screws let alone getting anything 'exotic' like Torx. So I was stuck with Philips screws which constantly wanted to cam-out.

I built the bed in my driveway and measured what it would be with the legs on and it seemed like it should all go inside and upstairs just fine. Unfortunately I couldn't get it up the stairs (they have a turn), so I had to take the legs off and then reattach them upstairs.

I have a question about the legs, I attached them with a gap, as you suggested, to avoid squeaking. But it seems like it would be stronger to have no gap, so the bed frame is resting on the wood rather than all the weight being put on the screws. Can you comment on that?

I ended up with a spare 1x4, so I figured I'd put that in as a center beam. Although I haven't actually screwed it in place yet.

Like most people have said, it's much taller than I want, so I'll be cutting the legs to be much shorter. I'll also sand down the edges a bit and maybe paint or varnish it.

I'm not very handy although I'm always trying things. It took me about 5-6 hours in total.

If I was to remake it and had better screws and a proper attachment for my drill then I reckon I could do it in about 3 hours. 
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aeray (author)  esrun2 years ago
Thanks for the pics. The shear strength of the screws is more than sufficient to support the bed. Leaving the gap prevents squeaks.
geargirl3 years ago
Awesome platform bed! Plan on building it tomorrow! :) We have a queen-sized bed with a box spring, mattress and memory foam, all which make our current bedframe (at 10" off the ground) too tall! We're planning on building this bed frame with only 2-3" of clearance--just enough for air to pass through and keep it ventilated, but allowing us to get into bed without using a pole vault! My question: We have split boxsprings, so we really need full coverage for the whole footprint of the bed: 60" x 80" I believe, and not the smaller "queen" footprint that allows the mattress to hang over the frame a smidge. Has anyone built this bed to true queen measurements? I would sure appreciate any quick measurement modifications in order to create the 60 x 80 frame. Thanks so much! geargirl
ttru geargirl2 years ago
The platform is designed to just put the mattress on. you don't need a boxspring. if you got some rails you have yourself a bed already
lynoprinka3 years ago
Aeray, you are awesome.

I have now made 3 of these beds. They are terrific. I even sold one cause someone liked it so much they paid me for it! Here is my question. I want to take the Queen and trundle the full frame (without legs) underneath it. This will require some redoing that I want to make sure I am thinking through it alright.

1. I need to rebuild the queen frame and lengthen the 2 by 4', so there is more clearance between the legs. This will place the slats much more flush with the frame with a lot less overhang.

2. I need to reposition the Queen legs from inside the frame to outside the frame, again to give more clearance for the full to be pulled in and out. And maybe even use just legs on the outside at the head and foot, but not the sides to not impede the trundle in and out

3. I imagine this will affect the load bearing ability of the legs and the slats. Is it enough I should add a 2 by 4 mid way, like in the king bed to better support the slats? (Bed will be holding a light mattress, 2 " foam, and a 150 # person) What can I do to strenghten the legs if I have them parallel only the with the head and foot. Or maybe use 1x2's on the sides for the second part of each leg. Do they make 1x2's?

4. I need to remove the legs of the full frame and add casters to each corner. My problem here is I need it as low to the ground as possible, but the shortest casters I can find are at least 2 1/2 inches adding up the wheel and the mounting mechanism. SO I was thinking of mounting the plate of the caster not to the 2 by 4 frames, but to the slats underneath, but that puts the weight of the bed on the slat and the screw that is holding the slat to the frame. Not good, right? How do I distribute the weight better and still recess the wheel? I can cut a large triangular chunk of 1x4 and and put in the corner of the frame, and attach the caster to that, but how do I anchor the 1 by 4 to the frame and not the slats....


Great appreciation to anyone who has any ideas....
nofunsally3 years ago
Hello, I am gearing up to build this full-size version of this bed. I have two questions: 1.) Are 'decking' screws appropriate? and 2.) How important is the #10 size?
Thanks you kindly.
aeray (author)  nofunsally3 years ago
1) It depends on what kind of decking screws they are. Photos? Link?
2) Fairly important. Don't use smaller ones.
jdennett3 years ago
I just finished building it, with the exception of the legs, which I will probably do later on today. However I beefed up the design a little, as I am about 300lb, and my girlfriend is not petite. The 2x4 frame was upgraded to 2x6's, and a 2x4 center beam was added down the middle. Also basically doubled the struts to about 16 if I recall...It feels really secure, and firm enough for me. Now it just needs legs to give me some storage space, and be easier to get in and out of.

Thanks for the great basic design!
aeray (author)  jdennett3 years ago
Thanks for the feedback. Enjoy!
dgellor3 years ago
I read through ALL of the comments and couldn't find info on making a King size bed frame. Can it be done with these plans? If I had a queen matress I'd be off to the lumber yard right now! Thanks for the easy to read/follow plans!
screamer13 years ago
I made this bed, and it took me a little while extra because I used lumber from a neighbor for the slats that had been exposed to the weather, so I scrubbed it down with a mixture of water and bleach, and let it dry before assembling, but it looks great. The only down side is now with the large air mattress that I have I it, I need a step ladder to get in it. I'm considering cutting them down tomorrow if I don't fall out of it tonight and end up with a concussion. The plans were excellent though and very clear. The waste was almost non-existent! Thank you.
aeray (author)  screamer13 years ago
Excellent use of salvaged lumber. Pics?
screamer1 aeray3 years ago
Thank you. It looks just like your picture though...and I followed every step, and it's the first time that I've made something like that. Sorry, no pics, but trust me when I say that it was comfortable to be off the floor after sleeping on an air mattress for almost a year. I can actually see the sun coming through the windows in the morning!
I like these plans...nice and simple, but still requires a little bit of knowledge to make everything nice and straight, with even edges and a level end product. I only slightly modified the plans, using 2x4x8's instead of 1x4's. I had some left over studs from another project and liked the idea of a little more thickness in the legs. I did end up countersinking every screw, just because I like the screw heads to be just below the surface.
Let me tell you, this thing is solid! Its a little high for my tastes, but the wife loves its. The fact that she can store a full size plastic tote underneath, plus the laundry baskets makes it a winner for her. I did the whole thing for $35, using Home Depot for supplies. Great plans, thanks for uploading them!
bed3.jpgbed2.jpg
aeray (author)  michaelhoover813 years ago
Thanks for the pics.
espion13 years ago
here's my version:

1. 2x2 legs, very minimalistic and so far sturdy
2. 2x2 running flush underneath the slats - no creaking as each slat is screwed into it, and corrects the excessive flex in some of the slats
3. nice geometric linens from IKEA and a big ass Canadian flag
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aeray (author)  espion13 years ago
Thanks for the pics. I'm mildly concerned about the 2x2 legs; let me know how they work out.
tinyLA3 years ago
HI
I love the bed frame!
Would I be able to make a platform that is much bigger than the bed in this manner? I want a sectiom of my studio to be a different level. I prefer this insetad of just elevating the bed and would like to do it myself.
aeray (author)  tinyLA3 years ago
Sure, but you may have to add intermediate supports.
jgautreaux3 years ago
FYI,
2x4s are not actually 2 inches by 4 inches. When the board is first rough sawn from the log, it is a true 2x4, but the drying process and planing of the board reduce it to the finished 1.5x3.5 size.
Here is a website explaining more conversion ratios.

http://mistupid.com/homeimpr/lumber.htm
aeray (author)  jgautreaux3 years ago
Oh, I get it: this is spam. Flagged.
aeray (author)  jgautreaux3 years ago
As a professional carpenter, I am well aware of this, and all of these measurements account for it.
dilinger3 years ago
I made one of these 6 months ago. The bed itself is great, but over time the legs became really squeaky. I moved, took the bed apart, and I'm now putting it together again.. and while i have the bed upside-down, I can make the legs squeak pretty badly by wiggling them (and the fact that they wiggle at all is problematic). Do you have any suggestions for how to reinforce the legs better? I feel like the combination of wood that I used, as well as the screws biting into the wood means the legs aren't as firmly attached as it should be...
aeray (author)  dilinger3 years ago
What kind of wood did you use? Try adding another screw (or 2) to the legs. Snug them up with a manual screwdriver rather than a powered one.
dilinger aeray3 years ago
(Sorry for the late reply, I'd been busy w/ moving stuff)

According to my receipt, "Spruce 1x4 #3 Dry ESLP" and "SPF 2x4 Prem Std & Btr Dry". I've tried adding screws, but it didn't help (I hadn't tried snugging them up with a manual screwdriver, though).

I should mention that I had originally build the bed according to your instructions, but with a memory foam mattress the bed sunk in a bit. I later replaced the 1x4 slats with a couple large pieces of extra plywood I had lying around; it was still sinking quite a bit in the middle. Finally, I bought a bunch of 2x4s and replaced the slats with those. That helped *immensely*, but adds extra weight to the frame (along with the mattress itself being somewhat heavier than a standard mattress).

So, not only have I moved at least once since building the bed (which mean unscrewing and rescrewing everything), but I've essentially rebuilt it twice. That's probably contributed to the squeakiness.

I tried several leg variations, but nothing helped. What I finally did was prop the bed up on some old book boxes, and the squeaking went away.. One of thee days, I'd like to get the problem solved properly (the boxes take up storage space, and they're in the way of other things), but for now the boxes are doing the trick.
aeray (author)  dilinger3 years ago
Sorry I'm lat in replying as well; I was on the road when you responded. Spruce is very soft (barely better that toilet paper) so the screws "waller out" their holes quickly, and I suspect that replacing the legs with pine/larch/fir 1x will solve the problem
cyee13 years ago
Im looking to construct a full platform bed as low to the ground as possible (I have rabbits and don't want them getting under the bed). Without taking away the integrity of the bed and support, how short can I make the legs? Can't wait to start!
aeray (author)  cyee13 years ago
Just omit the legs.
dankb3 years ago
I built this bed a little over 2 years ago and overall I'm very happy with it, but I'd suggest to anyone building it to beef up the leg connection. This connection is under a lot of stress, especially if you move it around your room at all for cleaning or whatnot. A couple weeks ago mine started getting wobbly so I added some bolts in between the screws to tighten it back up. The wobbling stopped but I'm still expecting a couple years down the line to have to put in another fix just because there can be so much torque created at this spot that the pine will wear down around the bolt.

But like I said -all told I'm quite happy with the bed. Many thanks for sharing!
Q3 years ago
I have a very expensive latex mattress that was given to me as a gift that I'm making this bed frame for. I was told by the manufacturer that the slats can be no more than 2 inches apart, preferably less. How much extra wood will I need and does this change any of the dimensions? Also, is there a way to make the frame a bit longer so there is no mattress over-hang? Maybe attaching 2x8's as the frame instead so the mattress sits inside the frame? I'm sure this is all confusing, I'm just trying to support the mattress as best I can. First time with a latex mattress and they are very heavy - over 300lbs - at least. Thanks so much for your great 'bile!! =)
aeray (author)  Q3 years ago
Add 5" to the length of the slats, and 4" to the length of the longer 2 x 4's. You'll also need to use 17 slats to keep the gap less than 2".
Q aeray3 years ago
THanks so much for the extra info!!
Q3 years ago
Sorry about the bile.... Stupid computer keeps changing the spelling of the words. Meant to say great instructable!!
rludwig3 years ago
I like this bed design a lot, but I'm curious about the long-term wear on the mattress. It seems like the overhang would cause the edges of the mattress to give out more quickly over a period of years. I just bought a rather nice mattress and would love this kind of frame to put it on, but I want to take good care of it so it will last the 10 years it was intended for. For those of you who have built this frame, how did your mattress wear after a year or two of sleeping with the edges hanging over the frame?
aeray (author)  rludwig3 years ago
We've been sleeping on ours for about four years now, and the one pictured in the Instructable has been in use for about three years. Neither have any signs of abnormal wear and/or tear.
mommag3 years ago
Best bed I've slept on in years! thanks.
aeray (author)  mommag3 years ago
Glad to hear it. You're welcome.
jamest7653 years ago
Hi aeray,

Do you have dimensions for a full size?

Thank you,
James
aeray (author)  jamest7653 years ago
Everything is the same except for the slats. Make them 4-6" shorter.
jamest765 aeray3 years ago