For similarly easy shelving plans, see: http://www.instructables.com/id/Cheap-easy-low-waste-bookshelves/
For similarly easy dining table plans, see:http://www.instructables.com/id/Cheap-easy-low-waste-trestle-table/
As a professional carpenter, furniture maker, and designer/builder, I see a lot of home carpentry projects that are grossly overbuilt and over-engineered. One of the goals of this Instructable is to avoid the unnecessary overbuilding that I frequently see on this site, and that I see every day working in the residential construction industry. Many of the building methods we (in the US) use today are horribly wasteful despite the advances that have been made in materials science and structural engineering, because most people in the residential building industry, from architects and engineers to carpenters, are mired in tradition, doing things a certain way "because that is how it has always been done", rather than consulting the best available science, or even questioning their own assumptions about "the right way to do it". I don't intend to knock tradition, either. Many of the tricks, techniques, and tools that I use daily are definitely "old-school", but seem to have been forgotten.
This bed is designed to be cheap, lightweight, sturdy, and produce a minimum of waste, using a minimum number of tools. It is intended for use with a futon or mattress without a boxspring and provides storage space underneath sized to fit common cheap plastic storage bins. It also provides good ventilation for the futon or mattress, something that I learned was necessary after my expensive futon grew a large mold/mildew patch on the underside. For those who might think that this bed is flimsy, my wife and I use it nightly, and I am 6'-5" and weigh 240lbs. I wouldn't jump up and down in the middle of it, but it will easily take any other abuse you commit upon it. When I calc it out, this bed uses 23.16 board feet of lumber (1 bd.ft.= 144 cu.in.), or 1.93 cubic ft., and produces only 42 cubic inches of waste, about 1.25%.
Instructables member frazeeg has posted a SketchUp model here.
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Signing UpStep 1: Materials and Tools
Material:
(4) 14' 1x4 #3 and better pine
(1) 10' 1x4 #3&btr pine
(2) 10' 2x4 Std&btr fir larch
(8) 3" #10 wood screws
(66) 2" #10 wood screws
Try and pick fairly straight, pitch (sap) free lumber, if your local lumberyard lets you do so. Some yards are stingy about this. Try telling them that you are building a bed, and that you would rather not have pitch all over your mattress/futon and floor.
The finished dimensions of the top of the bed are 76" x 55". A queen mattress is 60" x 80". The slight mattress overhang covers up the ends of the slats and keeps the user from bumping their legs on them, and uses standard lumber lengths efficiently.
A note on screws: I am a professional carpenter and furniture maker, and I make things easier on myself by NEVER using Phillips head screws. The Phillips head was designed to "cam out" at a fairly low torque for assembly line work before the advent of adjustable torque limiting drill/drivers. I use only Robertson square drive or Torx head screws, and save myself a lot of time and frustration.
Tools:
Saw (Skil, hand, jig, or miter. Shown is a Skil)
Square (Speed, framing, or try. Shown is a speedsquare)
Pencil
Tape measure
Drill (Cordless or corded)
Appropriate driver bit for your screws
#10 pilot bit/countersink










































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Thanks! Oh, p.s. only problem was that I couldn't find torx screws anywhere in the size recommended. Should I use deck screws on the next beds?
Just wanted to send you pics of one of your bed designs. This is a full size. I had to use a piece of 2x4 vs 2 pieces os 1x4 (see pic). Will this cause me probs over the long run?
THANK YOU!
MaryAnn
thank you, btw, for putting together these plans and posting them for free! i'm so proud of myself for building simple/solid stuff for myself.
Just drill the small pilot holes, and then use the 9/32" bit to "countersink" them about 1/8". Problem solved. Post pics when you're done, and look for my upcoming "Cheap, easy, low-waste trestle table" which I should have up by New Years.
I built a queen platform for myself this past weekend. I managed to get the Spax screws at Home Despot, but still had to settle for the loathsome Philips. (Which ended up causing problems, mainly fatigue from fighting the camming-out.) Another lesson learned with this project:check the angle on your table saw blade EVERY TIME, even the NEXT DAY. Most of my cuts were at a slight angle, very slight, because my blade got angled just enough from the previous day's cutting. On the slats and legs, this was not a big deal. On the one long frame piece, it was a "use a hacksaw to cut off a slice to square off the end of the lumber because otherwise there will not be a good joint" deal.
The building did go faster this time. Still not a two-hour job, but faster. The lumber and screws cost $40. I ended up with a number of 1.5" pieces (that I'm going to use for another project) because it was cheaper to buy 6' lengths of wood than 12'. (6' 1x4 at my HD was $1.99, 12' 1x4 was triple that.) I had to predrill everything again. Even with better screws, the wood split. Grrr.
After sleeping on my mattress on the floor for nearly a year (hey, divorced lady, should've taken the King bed frame!), this bed feels really high in the air. It's great!
I got the uncut lumber into the Crown Vic this time (last time, I had some pieces cut first, this time I didn't.) It took a while! I've included a pic for proof. ^__^
Pic 1 is the bed, all dressed up. I'm using a king comforter and flat sheet. (Bed linens were all sourced from discount stores like TJ Maxx. Still expensive, but much nicer than what the same money would buy for "current season" linens.)
Pic 2 is to show the awesome storage under.
Pic 3 is construction, using a sewing table and the first platform bed as sawhorses.
Pic 4 is "How to get 13 pieces of lumber in a car."
Next project: building your bookshelves to make swell room dividers. Can hardly wait.
I'm hoping to build a platform bed for a twin size mattress, but it needs to fit a 28" tall dog crate underneath. It seems simple enough to just build much longer legs, but is that safe? Should I add an extra leg in the center and/or connect all four legs to keep it from wobbling? Maybe drill it into the studs along the wall? How much bowing do I need to account for? I don't have an extremely extensive amount of carpentry experience, and I'm worried about crushing my dog!
I am going to build bedside tables and bookshelves myself also. Once I realized how much money I could save, I decided the entire guest room will be made by yours truly.
Thank you aeray! I am inspired! ;-)
I told you I was going to do it again...but I didn't! She did it herself! (I pre-drilled all the holes) But she really did her thing, this was an excellent project to do together.
Thank you again.
My only other comment is that the slats look a little widely spaced. If it is a fairly stiff mattress, and your daughter is fairly light (as it appears) it shouldn't be a problem now. As your daughter grows, and the mattress ages, you may need to add some more slats.
Please keep me posted, and keep up the good work.
Take care, I'll be checking back often, I noticed you talking about a corner unit and some other projects I'm dying to see, lol.
Goodnight.
By the way --- using a saw leaves you with a very strange satisfying feeling!! =)