When I begun to etch my custom pcb I felt the need to improve circuit drill tecnique. I drilled my first circuits by free-hand with my Dremel, but despite it's very fast, it's subject to errors, and it's also dangerous, because the drill bit is very narrow and weak.
I've searched a column drill as the "Proxxon Bench Drill Press TBM 115" but it's a little too expensive. I've found also a vertical stand for Dremel alt 50€, but it was a model with a single metal column as rail, similar to the most you can see with a "drill stand" search, and it had a low precision in horizontal movement of the bit. In fact you felt the head moving of about a millimeter, which is a lot when your bit is so narrow. So I decided to build it by myself.
I've searched a column drill as the "Proxxon Bench Drill Press TBM 115" but it's a little too expensive. I've found also a vertical stand for Dremel alt 50€, but it was a model with a single metal column as rail, similar to the most you can see with a "drill stand" search, and it had a low precision in horizontal movement of the bit. In fact you felt the head moving of about a millimeter, which is a lot when your bit is so narrow. So I decided to build it by myself.
Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1:
I came at this solution after taking care at cost (if your DIY is very expensive it's better you buy it!), efforts (all my hardest project are still waiting to be completed), parts availability (if you have to wait shipment for each part of the design you'll forget for how you needed them, especially with Italian post service) and functionality.
The slide is a "macro rail" for photography which you can find on eBay at about 10$, but I already had a couple of them. The other parts you need, other than the drill, are only:
The slide is a "macro rail" for photography which you can find on eBay at about 10$, but I already had a couple of them. The other parts you need, other than the drill, are only:
- a strong spring (but also a big elastic is good)
- some wood boards
- some screws
- a nail
- 5 inch of a little aluminium cilindrical bar (as the ones of the TV antennas)
- a wood base
- and two inches of aluminium pipe (this also isn't so essential)
Visit Our Store »
Go Pro Today »
the drill?
I have to agree with what others have said about your zip tie attachments. Some other kind of removable clamp there would be an improvement. I would go for a hinged hose clamp kind of an arrangement.
http://www.pchemlabs.com/files/images/kf_hinge_clamp.jpg
That way I could attach, and remove the moto-tool easily. Although copying and adapting the hinged clamp design might be difficult to do without some heavier tools to make it. I still feel it would be perfect in use. Some plumbers tape, screws (I'd use carriage bolts I could lock into the tape holes), and wing nuts would do the job too.
http://www.mhparts.com/prodimages/P-1159-450.jpg
All you'd need to work with plumbers tape would be a pair of snips. Or maybe one of those moto-tool cut off discs that always blows up? Other people mentioned hose clamps and while I do love me some hose clamps I don't think they would be ideal for your application.
If I had made one of these drill presses myself I would have used a pipe and a flange as the machine column too. That way I could have made the head adjustable like they are on commercial drill presses. But I often get too carried away whenever I make anything.
The way you did it is nice too. You are up and running doing what you want to do easily.
This is why I won't be making one of these drill presses anytime too soon:
http://www.instructables.com/files/orig/FLY/MK39/GSUSNNOP/FLYMK39GSUSNNOP.jpg
I already have the real thing :)
http://www.instructables.com/id/GM-Arts-Overdrive-Pedal-Build/
One more tweak I would make would be to install spacers behind the rail to the vertical support allowing more clearance from the bit to the vertical.
http://faz-voce-mesmo.blogspot.pt/2012/11/instructables-sofa-de-paletes-stereo.html
You may find it frustrating that you have no "throat" — you can't get holes very far from the edge of the board because they'll hit the vertical stand. In hand-drilling boards, I used a hand-drill converter stand, but what I've found is that I tend to just leave the Dremel in place and push the board up into it. It's far superior to hand-drilling and just as fast.