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This instructable is a sequel to my first art stand. Now that I've used the first one, I can see it needed improvements like adjustability. So I decided to upgrade it a bit, since I had the need for it and the extra parts lying around. There's a trade off: to gain mobility/adjustability the art stand can't hold heavier canvases (I use xerox paper for now, so I don't mind) nor can you lean on to the stand as much. Also this is no longer a temporary or easily reversible design; the lamp will be dismantled or even permanently destroyed.

SORRY ABOUT THE BLURRY PHOTOS.


Tools needed:

Screwdriver/Powerdrill

Toothpicks/Cocktail sticks

Something sharp to puncture a few holes.

Scissors or a knife

Wirecutters (To cut the electrical stuff from the lamp, if you are as impatient as I am)

(Optional: Bandages to keep you from dying if you get cut)

Materials needed:

An old and useless swing arm desk lamp

A useless binder

Something to act as a paper/canvas holder. (L-shape or U-shape)

Glue

Paint

Step 1: Prepare the Lamp

Strip all the electrical parts from the lamp. KEEP THE SCREWS, they are needed later.

On a side note: the reflector seems to be aluminium on this lamp, so you might want to keep that if you are into metallurgy. The transformer will contain a copper coil among other stuff.

Step 2: Prepare the Paper/canvas Holder

This part and the photos are from the previous art stand instructable, so the tape shown on the photo is not needed.

The glue that I had made the plastic on the binder to "melt" and to come loose on my first try, thus making the canvas holder useless. So remove the plastic from the needed area exposing the cardboard underneath.

-Cut out an area behind the separated binder front cover, this is where you attach the canvas holder.

-Add glue to the canvas holder piece, then push it firmly against the binder cover.

-Wait for the glue to dry.

Step 3:

The binder cover needs some holes so it can be attached to the swing arm. Mark the location of the first two holes, puncture these holes through.

Since the two other holes are at a different level, use cocktail sticks to mark their relative position to the first two holes. Not an exact science, but it worked in this case. Puncture these through as well.

You can trace along the lines on the binder cover texture to make the holes align properly.

Step 4: Drill Holes, Put It Together

You can use the precise drill bit measurement technique shown on the first photo, and experience how it fails, because cardboard apparently doesn't care about your logic. So the drill bit might have to be a bit larger than the protruding screw columns, I had to wiggle the drill to make the holes larger. Drill only the two "upper" holes, only those protruding columns. The other two should be left with the previously punctured holes.

Then screw two screws through the smaller holes before attaching it to the lamp, just to make things easier. Align the screws and then screw them on the lamp. You might have to press the columns through the larger binder cover holes.

Et voilà! Now find something to install this on.

Step 5: Finished.

So there you go.

I installed this to a small but loyal table-thingy standing next to my workspace so I can paint while glue is drying, soldering station is warming up, coffee is brewing, my computer is processing, updating, compiling or whatever-ing something.

<p>Very cool! I've been thinking about something similar. Now I'm inspired to go do it. One idea on transfering screw holes: I've seen someone photo copy the back of a power strip then use that to mark where the holes should be drilled on wood or drywall. I imagine that would work just as well here.</p>
<p>That would require a photocopier. Anyway, that is a very good tip and I will remember it, I like having those sorts of tricks up my sleeve.</p>

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